Ogawayama

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The Fukano ('impossible') Slab boulder sitting on the approach to Suishou Slab and used as a marker, had been tried from bygone era as the slab of impossibility with the second foot hold as the highpoint for ages. A problem of extreme difficulty on this boulder was first established in 1996 by Tokio Muroi as "Shizuka no Umi", but the breakthrough on the frontal slab face was made by Kusano in 1998 with "Zutsu".

The cap of second foot hold was lifted and with a sublime line traversing to the left gave a blow to the invulnerable stronghold of the impossible slab. This paved the way for sieging tactics on the slab via "Bansosha" on the distinct arete to the left and with "Fuminsho" at a faintly milder-inclined spot on the right side, both by the Muroi.

I had a clear premonition when I did the FA of "Fuminsho", that despite the lack of holds this face will go if I focus on each step on the rock of this angle and quality. The last bastion was finally FA'd as "Kakusei" in 2007. The impossible slab fell to the 'possible' after more than 20 years of tries, including those by pioneers. [1]

Tokio Muroi notes the original grade as '三段', which covers the 7C+ to 8A range.[2]

References

[1] Ogawayama Bouldering Guide

[2] http://www.bouldering.net/japan/closeup/5dan/5dan.html

By December, snow had begun to fall and the days left were dwindling — it became a race against time. On December 9 I finally solved all the moves, but the conditions were far from favorable. At minus 2°C, strength dropped, shoe friction declined, and the rock was so dry my fingers began to slip off. Luckily, the climb demanded little explosive power. By moistening my fingers slightly beforehand, I could offset the dryness. When I finally sent it, I was at the limit. Entering the last mantle, my fingers were bone-dry, slipping to the verge of failure. But by focusing all my nerves into the tips of my fingers and toes, latching onto tiny dimples and crystals, my body moved exactly as I had imagined, astonishingly smooth. It was an ideal climb. Standing on top of the boulder, all the tension drained away and I just collapsed there. […]

A tree grows right alongside the line. It adds a sense of fear when you fall backward, but thanks to this tree I was able to probe holds and break down the moves. I’d like to call it the “Accompanying Tree.”

I felt it was clearly harder than Winter’s Day and about two full grades harder than Zutsū, so I graded it 5-dan. In the V-scale that would likely be around V15, though since I don’t have much direct experience with V-grades I can’t be certain. With so few confirmed 4-dan problems, it’s difficult to benchmark a 5-dan honestly. But as bouldering progresses, I think it will naturally find its confirmation.

References

[1] http://www.bouldering.net/japan/closeup/5dan/5dan.html

Line D on the topo

With no pads.

Line E on the topo