Zutsu | 8B Boulder problem at Ogawayama

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The Fukano ('impossible') Slab boulder sitting on the approach to Suishou Slab and used as a marker, had been tried from bygone era as the slab of impossibility with the second foot hold as the highpoint for ages. A problem of extreme difficulty on this boulder was first established in 1996 by Tokio Muroi as "Shizuka no Umi", but the breakthrough on the frontal slab face was made by Kusano in 1998 with "Zutsu".

The cap of second foot hold was lifted and with a sublime line traversing to the left gave a blow to the invulnerable stronghold of the impossible slab. This paved the way for sieging tactics on the slab via "Bansosha" on the distinct arete to the left and with "Fuminsho" at a faintly milder-inclined spot on the right side, both by the Muroi.

I had a clear premonition when I did the FA of "Fuminsho", that despite the lack of holds this face will go if I focus on each step on the rock of this angle and quality. The last bastion was finally FA'd as "Kakusei" in 2007. The impossible slab fell to the 'possible' after more than 20 years of tries, including those by pioneers. [1]

Tokio Muroi notes the original grade as '三段', which covers the 7C+ to 8A range.[2]

References

[1] Ogawayama Bouldering Guide

[2] http://www.bouldering.net/japan/closeup/5dan/5dan.html

In 2020, Kurakami attempted an ascent in each of the four seasons of this friction-dependent slab. Spring, autumn and winter were ticked.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CEaXaZEDZ4b/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/B7aBMSsjaY4/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BqKhF1gBTGU/

Miyashita ran numerous training laps on Zutsu as preparation for Kakusei (8B+).

日 30 climbs in one day

◎ 20 climbs in 1 hour

連 9 consecutive climbs

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3XCfnIXhos

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/COynKgWD9ps/