Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Dinosaur Trad climb E5 3

The name comes from the long neck and small brain you'll need to climb the route (as Brown said of Crew)!

Ken Wilson, writing in Mountain Craft (summer 1967):

On the 19th June, 1966, Joe Brown and Pete Crew climbed together for the first time and probably the strongest team ever to set foot on rock in this country made a bid to crack this "last great problem." They started early but they encountered such difficulty that both climbers were driven back several times. Late afternoon they were established on a stance in the middle of the wall. The cliff at this point was appallingly loose and it seemed as if they were hanging from tottering blocks all the time. All the lose material they pulled off was dropping into the sea 20 feet out from the base of the climb. They eventually finished at 9.30 p.m. The technical difficulty was high and the danger from loose rock was so considerable Dinosaur, as they called the climb, must stand out as one of the most formidable expeditions in Wales. [1]

References

[1] Gogarth (1990), page 268 /library/7294/gogarth

Directa Cornualles Sport route 8c 3
Disorderly Conduct Trad climb E8 3
Distortion Boulder problem 8A+ 3
Division Bell Sport route 8b 3

Named after Pink Floyd's 14th album of the same name [1].

References

[1] https://gripped.com/profiles/free-will-the-climbing-life-of-jim-sandford/

Dog Eat Dog Sport route 8b+ 3
Dolphin Wall Trad climb E8 3
Down on My Knee Trad climb E7 3

So named because as it was first ascentionist Tim Emmett's first lead after smashing his knee cap. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 73

Dr Crimp Boulder problem 7C 3
Dr Crimp Sport route 8b+ 3
Dreadnaught Sport route 8c 3
Dreadnought Trad climb E3 3
Drifter Trad climb E7 3
Dune Boulder problem 8B 3
Dynamics of Change Trad climb E9 3

A hard direct start to Braille Trail which lands you on the 'rest' with no gear, meaning the precarious upper slab is unprotected.

Earthworm Jim Boulder problem 8A+ 3
East Coker Boulder problem 8B 3
Eau Profonde Boulder problem 8B+ 3

In March 2022 a substantial fire was started in the cave which destroyed several problems including this one. [1]

References

[1] https://www.lacrux.com/en/bouldern/fred-nicole-boulder-fall-victim-to-vandalism/

Ecstacy Sport route 8b 3
Edge Lane Trad climb E5 3

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