Climbers from USA

References

[1] http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/722065/Welcome-to-Jim-Pettigrew

Royal Robbins:

Well, he was the greatest American alpinist of his day. Harlin had a genius for getting publicity, though, and he let a lot of misleading things develop. The idea that he cut his teeth on El Capitan - or that he was a Yosemite climber at all - is all nonsense. When we brought Yosemite techniques to the Alps, or in particular, when Gary Hemming did, Harlin took all the credit for it. But he had nothing to do with it, except that he jumped on the bandwagon. That sort of thing was what made us object to Harlin: he was so good, and yet he needed to do that. [1]

References

[1] Mountain 18 (1971), page 31 /library/9613/mountain-18

Pioneer of 'clean climbing' - using nuts rather than pitons - in the US.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkZAL1MtD9J/

"Current Yosemite Ambassador. Former Dirtbag."

Yosemite climber, guide, steward and historian from the early 1970s to now (2026). Founder of the Yosemite Climbing Association, the annual Yosemite Facelift volunteer clean-up, and the Yosemite Climbing Association Gallery and Museum.

References

[1] https://www.yosemiteclimbing.org/our-team

[2] https://yosemiteresorts.com/q-a-ken-yager/

[3] https://www.yosemite.com/things-to-do/leisure-activities/yosemite-climbing-association-museum/

[4] https://www.facebook.com/ken.yager.3