Sébastien Bouin

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Also known as: Seb Bouin

Quick Info

Nationality: FR
Date of birth: 7th April 1993
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9c
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8c+

Sébastien Bouin is a sport climber from the south of France. While being an exceptionally good all round climber, he is known for his extreme endurance climbing and establishing many hard first ascents. For example, his route Nordic Marathon in Flatanger takes in over 130m while climbing the out of the cave.

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: FR
Date of birth: 7th April 1993
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9c
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8c+

Sébastien Bouin is a sport climber from the south of France. While being an exceptionally good all round climber, he is known for his extreme endurance climbing and establishing many hard first ascents. For example, his route Nordic Marathon in Flatanger takes in over 130m while climbing the out of the cave.

Contributors: remus

Lists


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Akira (9a)
Added at 08:03 on 05 March 2021
Ariégeois Cœur Loyal (9b, FA)
Added at 17:11 on 08 November 2023
Move Hard (9b)
Added at 14:11 on 28 November 2023
Baise Moi (8c+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 05:08 on 11 August 2023
Lapsus (9a+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 14:09 on 29 September 2023
Jamming Destruction (9b, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 14:08 on 29 August 2023
Gwareg (8b, FA)
Added at 21:02 on 15 February 2024
Gwareg (8b)
Added at 21:02 on 15 February 2024
Move Hard (9b)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 16:07 on 26 July 2023
Patanics (9a+)
Added at 07:02 on 07 February 2024
La Rage d'Adam (9b, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Biographie (9a+)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Move (9b+)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Akira (9a)
Added at 16:02 on 02 February 2021
Chilam Balam (9b)
Added at 16:02 on 05 February 2021
La Rage d'Adam (9b, FA)
Added at 12:02 on 10 February 2021
Hugh (9a)
Added at 10:02 on 13 February 2021
Akira (9a)
Added at 10:02 on 13 February 2021
De L'Autre Côté du Ciel (9a)
Added at 10:02 on 13 February 2021
Akira (9a)
Added at 08:03 on 05 March 2021
Hugh (9a)
Added at 09:05 on 13 May 2021
Hugh (9a)
Added at 09:05 on 13 May 2021
Suprême Jumbo Love (9b+, FA)
Added at 15:05 on 09 May 2023
Jumbo Love (9b)
Added at 16:05 on 09 May 2023
Bibliographie (9b+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 18:06 on 07 June 2023
Nordic Marathon (9b, FA)
Added at 17:01 on 12 January 2023
Agincourt (8c)
Added at 10:03 on 20 March 2021
La Rose et le Vampire (8b)
Added at 10:03 on 20 March 2021
Beyond Integral (9b+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:06 on 28 June 2021
Beyond Integral (9b+, FA)
Added at 17:06 on 28 June 2021
Samizdat (8a)
Added at 07:09 on 03 September 2021
Masse Critique (8b+)
Added at 07:09 on 03 September 2021
Chimpanzodrome (7c+)
Added at 08:04 on 03 April 2021
Le Bidule (8a+)
Added at 08:04 on 03 April 2021
Tigre Bleu (8c)
Added at 08:04 on 03 April 2021
Ariégeois Cœur Loyal (9b, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:04 on 12 April 2023
Suprême Jumbo Love (9b+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 18:11 on 03 November 2022
Mar De Bering (9a, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 19:01 on 27 January 2023
Agincourt (8c)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:02 on 22 February 2022
Myr (9a+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 13:03 on 07 March 2022
Rei De Bering (9a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 15:01 on 31 January 2023
DNA (9c, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 15:05 on 05 May 2022
DNA (9c, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:05 on 06 May 2022
DNA (9c, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:05 on 30 May 2022
DNA (9c, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:05 on 30 May 2022
DNA (9c, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:05 on 30 May 2022
DNA (9c, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:05 on 30 May 2022
Iron Curtain (9b)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 14:07 on 11 July 2022
Nordic Marathon (9b, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:07 on 25 July 2022
Ratstaman Vibrations (9b)
Added at 06:08 on 05 August 2022
Change (9b+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 09:08 on 08 August 2022
Jumbo Love (9b)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 18:10 on 25 October 2022
Catxasa (9a+)
Added at 07:02 on 07 February 2024
Narcissus (9a)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 20:02 on 20 February 2024

Ascents

48 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
2012 La Madone 9a+ Lead | worked 20th May 2012
2013 Tierra Negra 9a Lead | worked 18th May 2013
2014
2015 Le Play Boy Rode Sans Complexe 9a Lead | worked 2015
Les Rois du Pétrole 8b+ Lead | flash 2015
Quoi de Neuf 8C Boulder | worked Sep 2015
Second ascent.
2016
2017 Chilam Balam 9b Lead | worked May 2017
2018 Les Yeux Plus Gros que l'Antre 9b Lead | worked 11th May 2018
First ascent.
2019 Pachamama 9a+ Lead | worked 6th Mar 2019
Mamichula 9b Lead | worked 15th Apr 2019
Beyond 9a+ Lead | worked 26th May 2019
First ascent.
Beyond 9a+ Lead | repeat Between 26th May 2019 and 29th Aug 2023

A hold broke in the second crux turning a 7B boulder in to a 7C+ boulder. After repeating the route with the broken hold Seb suggested an upgrade to 9a+. [1]

References

[1] https://www.grimper.com/news-beyond-9a-seb-berthe-pic-saint-loup

Move 9b+ Lead | worked 17th Jun 2019

The hardest route I did at the moment. One of the coolest. It's an amazing line in an amazing crag.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GeZUZUBKVjs

La Rage d'Adam 9b Lead | worked 4th Sep 2019
Patanics 9a+ Lead | worked Oct 2019
The Dream 9b Lead | worked 16th Dec 2019
First ascent.
2020 Ratstaman Vibrations 9b Lead | did not finish 2020
Hugh 9a Lead | worked 2020
De L'Autre Côté du Ciel 9a Lead | worked 2020
Catxasa 9a+ Lead | worked 9th Feb 2020
Biographie 9a+ Lead | worked Jun 2020
La Moustache Qui Fâche 9a+ Lead | worked 28th Aug 2020
Beyond Integral 9b+ Lead | worked 22nd Oct 2020
Akira 9a Lead | worked 21st Nov 2020
2021 Tigre Bleu 8c Lead | worked 2021
Masse Critique 8b+ Lead | worked 2021
Le Bidule 8a+ Lead | worked 2021

A really hard route for the time!

https://youtu.be/Tl0lJTjLjlY?t=390

Samizdat 8a Lead | worked 2021
Chimpanzodrome 7c+ Lead | worked 2021
2022 Myr 9a+ Lead | worked Mar 2022
DNA 9c Lead | worked 29th Apr 2022
Iron Curtain 9b Lead | worked Jul 2022
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cf3ki-QjUJu/

Nordic Marathon 9b Lead | worked 25th Jul 2022
First ascent.

Because the route is so long Seb was only able to have one good attempt every 2 days!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CgcR2Z4DhN3/

[2] https://fanatic-climbing.com/seb-bouin-ouvre-nordic-marathon-9b-seb-bouin-frees-nordic-marathon-9b/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nW36nE-EIwQ

Change 9b+ Lead | worked Aug 2022
Jumbo Love 9b Lead | worked 19th Oct 2022

Seb used some new beta through the crux revolving around a very slippery knee bar. He felt this was similar difficult to Chris Sharma's more dynamic method, though a little more reliable [2].

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkJNsSDDshp/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snHVl7AX1mw

Suprême Jumbo Love 9b+ Lead | worked 1st Nov 2022
2023 Mar De Bering 9a Lead | worked Jan 2023
Rei De Bering 9a+ Lead | worked Between 24th Jan 2023 and 31st Jan 2023
Ariégeois Cœur Loyal 9b Lead | worked 7th Apr 2023
First ascent.

Seb named the route for his late grandfather.

I bolted this route 5 years ago when my grandpa passed over. His wood worker name was Ariégeois Cœur Loyal (Loyal ariégeois heart). It was a great opportunity to keep him close to me all these years. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cq7rm3oNfg8/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXV7WlYwoVo

Bibliographie 9b+ Lead | worked Between 3rd Jun 2023 and 4th Jun 2023
Fourth ascent.

Bibliographie was a big goal for me this year. Since Alex [Megos] did the first ascent, I was psyched to try something really hard from someone else here in France. Even if Céüse is very far away from my own natural climbing style, I was really motivated to go through the process. A 9b+ in my ‘local’ area, already with 3 ascents by top climbers... it was obvious that I had to try it.

Bibliographie is not a route that particularly suits my strengths, so it was a great challenge to do a 9b+ on tiny crimps. But now it's time to go back to something a little more my style…😉

https://www.instagram.com/p/CtMYJySrClO/

Move Hard 9b Lead | worked Jul 2023
Jamming Destruction 9b Lead | worked Aug 2023
First ascent.

Seb's sequence through the crux required a hand jam that felt a lot better with a jamming glove on, but he did no want to climb the rest of the route with the glove as it made the sloper moves harder. Fortunately Seb was able to find a kneebar before the jam to put on the glove, and then a kneebar after the jam to take off the glove!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CwiCpvKNOag/=

Baise Moi 8c+ Lead | flash Aug 2023
Lapsus 9a+ Lead | worked Sep 2023
Narcissus 9a Lead | worked Dec 2023
Second ascent. Fourth go.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C0kDxQTt6vQ/

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
DNA 9c Lead | worked 29th Apr 2022
Beyond Integral 9b+ Lead | worked 22nd Oct 2020 9b/9b+
Suprême Jumbo Love 9b+ Lead | worked 1st Nov 2022 9b+
Move 9b+ Lead | worked 17th Jun 2019 9b+

The hardest route I did at the moment. One of the coolest. It's an amazing line in an amazing crag.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GeZUZUBKVjs

Change 9b+ Lead | worked Aug 2022 9b/9b+
Bibliographie 9b+ Lead | worked Between 3rd Jun 2023 and 4th Jun 2023 9b+
Fourth ascent.

Bibliographie was a big goal for me this year. Since Alex [Megos] did the first ascent, I was psyched to try something really hard from someone else here in France. Even if Céüse is very far away from my own natural climbing style, I was really motivated to go through the process. A 9b+ in my ‘local’ area, already with 3 ascents by top climbers... it was obvious that I had to try it.

Bibliographie is not a route that particularly suits my strengths, so it was a great challenge to do a 9b+ on tiny crimps. But now it's time to go back to something a little more my style…😉

https://www.instagram.com/p/CtMYJySrClO/

Les Yeux Plus Gros que l'Antre 9b Lead | worked 11th May 2018
First ascent.
La Rage d'Adam 9b Lead | worked 4th Sep 2019
The Dream 9b Lead | worked 16th Dec 2019
First ascent.
Nordic Marathon 9b Lead | worked 25th Jul 2022 9b/9b+
First ascent.

Because the route is so long Seb was only able to have one good attempt every 2 days!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CgcR2Z4DhN3/

[2] https://fanatic-climbing.com/seb-bouin-ouvre-nordic-marathon-9b-seb-bouin-frees-nordic-marathon-9b/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nW36nE-EIwQ

Ariégeois Cœur Loyal 9b Lead | worked 7th Apr 2023
First ascent.

Seb named the route for his late grandfather.

I bolted this route 5 years ago when my grandpa passed over. His wood worker name was Ariégeois Cœur Loyal (Loyal ariégeois heart). It was a great opportunity to keep him close to me all these years. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cq7rm3oNfg8/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXV7WlYwoVo

Jamming Destruction 9b Lead | worked Aug 2023
First ascent.

Seb's sequence through the crux required a hand jam that felt a lot better with a jamming glove on, but he did no want to climb the rest of the route with the glove as it made the sloper moves harder. Fortunately Seb was able to find a kneebar before the jam to put on the glove, and then a kneebar after the jam to take off the glove!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CwiCpvKNOag/=

Chilam Balam 9b Lead | worked May 2017 9a+/9b
Mamichula 9b Lead | worked 15th Apr 2019
Ratstaman Vibrations 9b Lead | did not finish 2020
Iron Curtain 9b Lead | worked Jul 2022 9a+
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cf3ki-QjUJu/

Jumbo Love 9b Lead | worked 19th Oct 2022 9b

Seb used some new beta through the crux revolving around a very slippery knee bar. He felt this was similar difficult to Chris Sharma's more dynamic method, though a little more reliable [2].

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkJNsSDDshp/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snHVl7AX1mw

Move Hard 9b Lead | worked Jul 2023 9b
Beyond 9a+ Lead | worked 26th May 2019 9a
First ascent.
Rei De Bering 9a+ Lead | worked Between 24th Jan 2023 and 31st Jan 2023
La Madone 9a+ Lead | worked 20th May 2012 9a+
Pachamama 9a+ Lead | worked 6th Mar 2019
Beyond 9a+ Lead | repeat Between 26th May 2019 and 29th Aug 2023 9a+

A hold broke in the second crux turning a 7B boulder in to a 7C+ boulder. After repeating the route with the broken hold Seb suggested an upgrade to 9a+. [1]

References

[1] https://www.grimper.com/news-beyond-9a-seb-berthe-pic-saint-loup

Patanics 9a+ Lead | worked Oct 2019 9a/9a+
Catxasa 9a+ Lead | worked 9th Feb 2020
Biographie 9a+ Lead | worked Jun 2020
La Moustache Qui Fâche 9a+ Lead | worked 28th Aug 2020
Myr 9a+ Lead | worked Mar 2022
Lapsus 9a+ Lead | worked Sep 2023 9a+
Le Play Boy Rode Sans Complexe 9a Lead | worked 2015
Mar De Bering 9a Lead | worked Jan 2023
Tierra Negra 9a Lead | worked 18th May 2013 9a/9a+
Hugh 9a Lead | worked 2020
De L'Autre Côté du Ciel 9a Lead | worked 2020
Akira 9a Lead | worked 21st Nov 2020 9a
Narcissus 9a Lead | worked Dec 2023
Second ascent. Fourth go.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C0kDxQTt6vQ/

Baise Moi 8c+ Lead | flash Aug 2023
Tigre Bleu 8c Lead | worked 2021
Agincourt 8c Lead | worked

Lucien Martinez for Grimper:

Beyond the historical interest, Seb Bouin emphasizes that it is sometimes interesting to return to the classics so as not to lose sight of what the reference quotations are. For example, he has no doubt that Agincourt is a notch tougher than La Cabane au Canada, yet rated 9a. [1]

References

[1] https://www.grimper.com/news-azincourt-premier-8c-france-seb-bouin-ajoute-nouvelle-piece-vintage-rock-tour

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaS5Y1Uq4O8

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CaReFcBNd4g/

Les Rois du Pétrole 8b+ Lead | flash 2015
Masse Critique 8b+ Lead | worked 2021
La Rose et le Vampire 8b Lead | worked
Le Bidule 8a+ Lead | worked 2021

A really hard route for the time!

https://youtu.be/Tl0lJTjLjlY?t=390

Samizdat 8a Lead | worked 2021
Chimpanzodrome 7c+ Lead | worked 2021
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Quoi de Neuf 8C Boulder | worked Sep 2015
Second ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Gwareg 8b Lead | worked
Gwareg 8b Deep Water Solo | worked

After leading the first ascent Seb went back to also make the first DWS ascent.

https://youtu.be/p795gIoxJwY?si=L0M-jzA2mOIVJgeQ&t=888