Sébastien Bouin

250 tries spread over 150+ days.

Seb has written a series of instagram posts describing his process on the routes:

1. DNA - The Process: 2019
2. DNA - The Process: 2020
3. DNA - The Process: 2021
4. DNA - The Process: 2022
5. DNA - The Route

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CdLWSLMDKgt/

[2] https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_NO/stories/dna-seb-bouin/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CdLoxByKNiX/

[4] https://www.redbull.com/int-en/episodes/reel-rock-s9-e4

The hardest route I did at the moment. One of the coolest. It's an amazing line in an amazing crag.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GeZUZUBKVjs

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CGr-xs_D2_4/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUCezb-9gXE

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cg_hGbCj8uj/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkgdJYfpHDO/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snHVl7AX1mw

Bibliographie was a big goal for me this year. Since Alex [Megos] did the first ascent, I was psyched to try something really hard from someone else here in France. Even if Céüse is very far away from my own natural climbing style, I was really motivated to go through the process. A 9b+ in my ‘local’ area, already with 3 ascents by top climbers... it was obvious that I had to try it.

Bibliographie is not a route that particularly suits my strengths, so it was a great challenge to do a 9b+ on tiny crimps. But now it's time to go back to something a little more my style…😉

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CtMYJySrClO/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EV92iFq-NM8

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmdcGIoRw20

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C_JLXAgtils/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DChZCaPSddV/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/DCmWCIPNnMA/

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/DDUKUVAyZcK/

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/06/seb_bouin_about_chilam_balam-69760

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-0uyFWeOoE

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yITq60BZOz8&t=319s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IefAza76V70

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cf3ki-QjUJu/

Because the route is so long Seb was only able to have one good attempt every 2 days!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CgcR2Z4DhN3/

[2] https://fanatic-climbing.com/seb-bouin-ouvre-nordic-marathon-9b-seb-bouin-frees-nordic-marathon-9b/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nW36nE-EIwQ

Seb used some new beta through the crux revolving around a very slippery knee bar. He felt this was similar difficult to Chris Sharma's more dynamic method, though a little more reliable [2].

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkJNsSDDshp/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snHVl7AX1mw

Seb named the route for his late grandfather.

I bolted this route 5 years ago when my grandpa passed over. His wood worker name was Ariégeois Cœur Loyal (Loyal ariégeois heart). It was a great opportunity to keep him close to me all these years. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cq7rm3oNfg8/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXV7WlYwoVo

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CvKlLXANpQn/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVcafixW25c

Seb's sequence through the crux required a hand jam that felt a lot better with a jamming glove on, but he did no want to climb the rest of the route with the glove as it made the sloper moves harder. Fortunately Seb was able to find a kneebar before the jam to put on the glove, and then a kneebar after the jam to take off the glove!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CwiCpvKNOag/=

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6iRcY5U0le4

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/C6ME46FxmJ5/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUX3ORVKjfk

A hold broke in the second crux turning a 7B boulder in to a 7C+ boulder. After repeating the route with the broken hold Seb suggested an upgrade to 9a+. [1]

References

[1] https://www.grimper.com/news-beyond-9a-seb-berthe-pic-saint-loup

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9vZTl1xBxU

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/11/seb_bouin_repeats_patanics_and_suggests_downgrade_to_9a+-72118

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_jQXAkpmrU

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9I9C9CZ3lc

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CazaMoegaar/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CoExb4hsr96/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cxxz9ubtmkO/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LieQFuXEWSE

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/tierra_negra_9a+_by_seb_bouin-68076

References

[1] https://www.grimper.com/news-seb-bouin-offre-nouveau-9a-luberon

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuMxIC6qdp8?t=606

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuMxIC6qdp8?t=202

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-LZlqXEXDw

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gb86hS3omuA

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuMxIC6qdp8?t=367

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Hol4h2XiYM

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cn335jdMA1g/

https://www.instagram.com/p/C0kDxQTt6vQ/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CvxSBo8umzT/=

[2] https://youtu.be/6iRcY5U0le4?t=857

References

[1] https://youtu.be/Tl0lJTjLjlY?t=515

Lucien Martinez for Grimper:

Beyond the historical interest, Seb Bouin emphasizes that it is sometimes interesting to return to the classics so as not to lose sight of what the reference quotations are. For example, he has no doubt that Agincourt is a notch tougher than La Cabane au Canada, yet rated 9a. [1]

References

[1] https://www.grimper.com/news-azincourt-premier-8c-france-seb-bouin-ajoute-nouvelle-piece-vintage-rock-tour

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaS5Y1Uq4O8

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CaReFcBNd4g/

References

[1] https://youtu.be/h3UPk7OcCeg?t=563

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZ9f0rfBcgg

A really hard route for the time!

https://youtu.be/Tl0lJTjLjlY?t=390

References

[1] https://youtu.be/h3UPk7OcCeg?t=85

References

[1] https://youtu.be/Tl0lJTjLjlY?t=303

After leading the first ascent Seb went back to also make the first DWS ascent.

https://youtu.be/p795gIoxJwY?si=L0M-jzA2mOIVJgeQ&t=888

https://youtu.be/p795gIoxJwY?si=L0M-jzA2mOIVJgeQ&t=888