Kurt Smith

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Third ascent. With Ed Barry.

now this route brings back some good and bad memories... ed barry and i went to do the 3rd ascent. i lead the first, he lead the second and starting down climbing right below the first real bolt on 2nd pitch, (45 above the belay). a knob broke and he fell, right for my head, i moved right and he hit my shoulder and went another 40 ft before i caught him. he got to the belay pasty white! "I'm not going back up there man" was all he could say.. we waited a little while for the adrenaline to subside and then i decided to give the second pitch a try because i did not want to come back and lead that first pitch again! ed snapped out of his funk and went and sent the pitch. I broke a hold 40 above a bolt on the 3rd but hung on and made it to the horizontial and the cam placement that i really was happy to get. Then there are two more pitches of funky scary climbing to the summit. Most people rap after the third and i say that's bull shit! you have to do the whole route to call it a send!

It is an amazing line, bolts are far away and the climbing is COMMITTING! LIKE CLIMBING USED TO BE!

so go for it and realize you are climbing more than just a route, you are climbing a vision of the past that required first ascentionist's to have guts to get the glory..!

enjoy and yes there are new bolts there so no more 1/4 bolts to get you puckered... [1]

References

[1] http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=375380

Fourth ascent.

First ascent.