Ed Drummond

Also known as: Ed-Ward Drummond and Edwin Ward-Drummond

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of death: 23rd April 2019
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 6A
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E4
Notable Partnerships
Oliver R Hill

Mick Ward:

Ed Drummond was probably the most visionary figure in British climbing history. He left a legacy of stunning routes and superb writing. And he had a reputation for having the most complicated, mercurial character imaginable. [2]

References

[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/a-dream-of-edwin-drummond

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940

[3] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/rip_ed_drummond-704064

[4] http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3195076/RIP-Edwin-Drummond

[5] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/thats-me-ed-drummond

Contributors
200 contributions since 9th February 2022.
19 contributions since 2nd October 2025.
TdG
9 contributions since 22nd September 2025.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of death: 23rd April 2019
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 6A
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E4
Notable Partnerships
Oliver R Hill

Mick Ward:

Ed Drummond was probably the most visionary figure in British climbing history. He left a legacy of stunning routes and superb writing. And he had a reputation for having the most complicated, mercurial character imaginable. [2]

References

[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/a-dream-of-edwin-drummond

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940

[3] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/rip_ed_drummond-704064

[4] http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3195076/RIP-Edwin-Drummond

[5] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/thats-me-ed-drummond

Contributors
200 contributions since 9th February 2022.
19 contributions since 2nd October 2025.
TdG
9 contributions since 22nd September 2025.

Library

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Pics + Vids

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Ascents

25 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Banana Finger First ascent. 6A Boulder | worked 1971
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Longhope Route Direct First ascent. E9 Aid | worked Jul 1970

With 2 skyhooks placed in drilled divots for aid, a source of controversy at the time. Keith Myhill wrote in a letter to Mountain Magazine:

This event must surely mark the lowest point in gritstone climbing for a very long time.

To which Drummond replied:

…Rome wasn't built in a day, nor Cenotaph ascended by Saint Joseph without a pin here and a pin there. And Quietus top-roped first. I'm still learning how to learn. Silly Myhill. It isn't your hill. The route is there for you too. Go on – open your legs – let's see what you can do. Balancing on those two impeccable skyhooks should keep you quiet. You might even learn to pray; and not prey.

Though in a later interview he repented:

I erred and was willing to err. If you are creating something, to a degree you have a right to define the way in which to create and I was willing to chip holds… I was different, in that I was wilful and was prepared to change the rock to suit me because I was at the cutting edge and had a right to blunt it a little. I was wrong.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940

[2] Mountain 28 (1973), page 15 /library/9632/mountain-28

[3] Mountain 31 (1974), page 39 /library/11050/mountain-31

As part of an anti-apartheid protest.

References

[1] https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2016/oct/21/anti-apartheid-protestors-make-first-ascent-of-nelsons-column-1978

References

[1] Mountain Issue 21, page 12

Climbed three days after Allen and mistakenly claimed as a first ascent, named 'Wind'

Over three days!

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940
Chameleon First ascent. E4 Lead 1975
Don First ascent. E4 Solo 1985

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940
The Blik First ascent. 1 point of aid. E3 Lead May 1967
Krapp's Last Tape First ascent. E3 Lead May 1967

References

[1] Mountain 3 (1969), page 7

[2] Mountain 4 (1969), page 29

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940

[2] On The Edge Issue 107, pa

[3] Mountain Issue 21, page 12
The Moon First ascent. 4 points of aid. E3 Alternate Leads 17th Jun 1971

References

[1] Mountain 28 (1973), page 16 /library/9632/mountain-28
Embankment 3 First ascent. E3 Lead 1975
The Asp First ascent. E3 Lead 1975
Delicatessen First ascent. With Jack Street. E2 Alternate Leads 1965
The Preter First ascent. E2 Lead | onsight 1st May 1966

References

[1] Crocker, M. (2017). Avon Gorge: Climbers’ Club

References

[1] New Climbs (1968), page 122 /library/7218/new-climbs. Listed under 'V. Miscellaneous'!

References

[1] New Climbs (1968), page 51 /library/7218/new-climbs
Wuthering First ascent. E2 Lead 1973
A Dream of White Horses First ascent. With Dave Pearce. HVS Alternate Leads | onsight Between 18th Oct 1968 and 19th Oct 1968
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade