Ed Drummond

Also known as: Ed-Ward Drummond and Edwin Ward-Drummond

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of death: 23rd April 2019
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 6A
Hardest Trad (Worked): E3
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E4
Notable Partnerships
Oliver Hill

Mick Ward:

Ed Drummond was probably the most visionary figure in British climbing history. He left a legacy of stunning routes and superb writing. And he had a reputation for having the most complicated, mercurial character imaginable. [2]

References

[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/a-dream-of-edwin-drummond

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940

[3] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/rip_ed_drummond-704064

[4] http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3195076/RIP-Edwin-Drummond

[5] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/thats-me-ed-drummond

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of death: 23rd April 2019
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 6A
Hardest Trad (Worked): E3
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E4
Notable Partnerships
Oliver Hill

Mick Ward:

Ed Drummond was probably the most visionary figure in British climbing history. He left a legacy of stunning routes and superb writing. And he had a reputation for having the most complicated, mercurial character imaginable. [2]

References

[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/a-dream-of-edwin-drummond

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940

[3] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/rip_ed_drummond-704064

[4] http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3195076/RIP-Edwin-Drummond

[5] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/thats-me-ed-drummond

Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Added at 17:02 on 19 February 2024
© Ed Drummond
Added at 16:02 on 09 February 2022
© Ken Wilson
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/in_focus/we_ca...

Ascents

16 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
1965 Delicatessen E2 Alternate Leads 1965
First ascent. With Jack Street.
1966
1967 The Blik E3 Lead May 1967
First ascent. 1 point of aid.
Krapp's Last Tape E3 Lead May 1967
First ascent.
1968
1969
1970 Longhope Route Direct E9 Aid | worked Jul 1970
First ascent.
1971 Banana Finger 6A Boulder | worked 1971
First ascent.
Archangel E3 Solo | worked Apr 1971
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940

[2] On The Edge Issue 107, page 44.
1972
1973 Linden E6 Lead 1973
First ascent. 2 points of aid.

With 2 skyhooks placed in drilled divots for aid, a source of controversy at the time. Keith Myhill wrote in a letter to Mountain:

This event must surely mark the lowest point in gritstone climbing for a very long time.

To which Drummond replied:

…Rome wasn't built in a day, nor Cenotaph ascended by Saint Joseph without a pin here and a pin there. And Quietus top-roped first. I'm still learning how to learn. Silly Myhill. It isn't your hill. The route is there for you too. Go on – open your legs – let's see what you can do. Balancing on those two impeccable skyhooks should keep you quiet. You might even learn to pray; and not prey.

Though in a later interview he repented:

I erred and was willing to err. If you are creating something, to a degree you have a right to define the way in which to create and I was willing to chip holds… I was different, in that I was wilful and was prepared to change the rock to suit me because I was at the cutting edge and had a right to blunt it a little. I was wrong.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940
Wuthering E2 Lead 1973
First ascent.
1974
1975 Chameleon E4 Lead 1975
First ascent.
Embankment 3 E3 Lead 1975
First ascent.
The Asp E3 Lead 1975
First ascent.
1976
1977
1978
1979
1980
1981
1982
1983
1984
1985 Don E4 Solo 1985
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Banana Finger 6A Boulder | worked 1971
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Longhope Route Direct E9 Aid | worked Jul 1970
First ascent.
Linden E6 Lead 1973
First ascent. 2 points of aid.

With 2 skyhooks placed in drilled divots for aid, a source of controversy at the time. Keith Myhill wrote in a letter to Mountain:

This event must surely mark the lowest point in gritstone climbing for a very long time.

To which Drummond replied:

…Rome wasn't built in a day, nor Cenotaph ascended by Saint Joseph without a pin here and a pin there. And Quietus top-roped first. I'm still learning how to learn. Silly Myhill. It isn't your hill. The route is there for you too. Go on – open your legs – let's see what you can do. Balancing on those two impeccable skyhooks should keep you quiet. You might even learn to pray; and not prey.

Though in a later interview he repented:

I erred and was willing to err. If you are creating something, to a degree you have a right to define the way in which to create and I was willing to chip holds… I was different, in that I was wilful and was prepared to change the rock to suit me because I was at the cutting edge and had a right to blunt it a little. I was wrong.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940
Chameleon E4 Lead 1975
First ascent.
Don E4 Solo 1985
First ascent.
Great Wall E4 Lead | onsight
Fifth ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940
The Boldest E4 Lead | ground up

Over three days!

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940
The Blik E3 Lead May 1967
First ascent. 1 point of aid.
Krapp's Last Tape E3 Lead May 1967
First ascent.
Archangel E3 Solo | worked Apr 1971
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940

[2] On The Edge Issue 107, page 44.
Embankment 3 E3 Lead 1975
First ascent.
The Asp E3 Lead 1975
First ascent.
Delicatessen E2 Alternate Leads 1965
First ascent. With Jack Street.
Wuthering E2 Lead 1973
First ascent.
The Strand E2 Lead
First ascent.
A Dream of White Horses HVS Alternate Leads | onsight
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade