John Stainforth

Yes, this was my first visit to the Roaches and the first climb I did there, a few minutes after getting off the coach from Leeds.

This did not seem like poor protection at the time: what could be better than a number 3 hawser-laid sling over a block?! Remember, cams had not been invented at this time. Nor had belay devices - note that John Syrett is using the classic waist belay and belay gloves. John was a very bold leader, but also a fantastically solid second; absolutely nothing casual about his belaying. Notice his attention and just the right amount of slack in the rope.

Note the socks inside the EBs, and the waist belts; no leg loops. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=61347

With John Syrett.