Alan Rouse

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Also known as: Al Rouse

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 19th December 1951
Age: 34 years old
Date of death: 10th August 1986
Gender: Male
Hardest Sport (Worked): 7b
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5

Wallasey-born rock climber, alpinist, and bonne viveur. Rouse cut his teeth on Cheshire sandstone and in North Wales with cutting-edge ascents on rock in the late-1960s and early 1970s. Soloing close to the highest standards on rock was a prevailing ethos of the time and Rouse was part of a group that pursued this including Alan Richard McHardy and Eric Jones. Whilst studying for a BSc in Mathematics at Cambridge University he developed an interest in winter climbing and Alpinism. Later in life he focused on expeditions and was an inspiration to and unofficial ringleader of the post-Bonington generation of UK alpinists before his death on K2 in 1986.

Contributors
59 contributions since 13th January 2022.
6 contributions since 11th January 2026.
TdG
2 contributions since 14th October 2025.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 19th December 1951
Date of death: 10th August 1986
Age: 34 years old
Gender: Male
Hardest Sport (Worked): 7b
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5

Wallasey-born rock climber, alpinist, and bonne viveur. Rouse cut his teeth on Cheshire sandstone and in North Wales with cutting-edge ascents on rock in the late-1960s and early 1970s. Soloing close to the highest standards on rock was a prevailing ethos of the time and Rouse was part of a group that pursued this including Alan Richard McHardy and Eric Jones. Whilst studying for a BSc in Mathematics at Cambridge University he developed an interest in winter climbing and Alpinism. Later in life he focused on expeditions and was an inspiration to and unofficial ringleader of the post-Bonington generation of UK alpinists before his death on K2 in 1986.

Contributors
59 contributions since 13th January 2022.
6 contributions since 11th January 2026.
TdG
2 contributions since 14th October 2025.

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Ascents

9 recorded ascents.

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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Rite of Way 7b Lead | worked 1985 E5
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 103, page 18 /library/11124/mountain-103
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
First ascent. With some points of aid.

References

[1] Mountain 15 (1971), page 10
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 15 (1971), page 10
Reagent E5 Lead | worked 1984
First ascent.
Tax Exile E5 Lead 20th Apr 1984
First ascent.

A bold ascent at a time when this was considered one of the harder routes in Wales.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_stone_children_-_cutting_edge_climbing_in_the_1970s-13297
First ascent.

Some sources report this as the first free ascent but it is unclear whether Rouse managed to reduce the amount of aid used.

However, in Rocksport Magazine April/May 1971, it was stated that Rouse and Alan (Richard) McHardy had both repeated Wee Doris, but had been unable to reduce the amount of aid used by Proctor. [1]

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

[2] Mountain issue 15, page 10
Third ascent? With Paul Braithwaite.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 21, page 12
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade