John Syrett

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With John Stainforth.

Ken Wilson, writing for Mountain magazine:

The second ascent [ed, erroneous. Actually third ascent.] (and the first led on sight) of Almscliff's famous Wall of Horrors, by 20-year-old student John Syrett, enlivened an otherwise dull autumn season in Britain. Syrett, who started climbing less than two years ago, took the Wall in good style after an inspection from abseil.

The Wall of Horrors, which is 45ft high, has gained it's reputation from a combination of extreme difficulty and no protection - a 'chop' route in fact. The first ascent was made in 1960 by Allan Austin after several attempts and one ascent on a rope. Since then the Wall has frightened off some of Britain's best gritstone climbers.

After the initial difficulties Syrett was able to hang on jams for nearly 15 minutes and fix a secure runner before making the crux moves. [3]

John Stainforth:

John climbed it with ease, making it look like any other climb. He was ten minutes arranging a clog 1 wedge beneath the crux and climbed the whole route unhurriedly (20 mins). [1]

References

[1] Yorkshire Grit Volume 1, 2012. Page 93.

[2] On The Edge Issue 129, page 19

[3] Mountain Issue 13, page 11 (1971)

First ascent.

John Stainforth:

John Syrett did first ascent of Joker's Wall (at last!). On the first attempt of the day he fell off, his Clog 0 tore out and he fell to the ground. Then he practised on a top rope, and then he soloed it. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=61585

First ascent.