Peter Biven

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Trad (Worked): VS
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E1

John Cleare:

But rock was his medium. On it he was superb. He was tall and slim with powerful arms and steel fingers and he moved over it with the ease and grace of an elongated leopard—never have I seen him awkward or harassed on even the most uncompromising climb. Whatever move he made it was photogenic. Bubbling with enthusiasm and assurance one could want no better companion on the rope and he was the safest climber with whom I have shared it. His death is such an ironic tragedy. [1]

References

[1] Obituary in the Alpine Journal 1977 by John Cleare. Alpine Journal 1977 265-273 In Memoriam

Contributors: remus
Added on 3rd December 2021. Last updated on 27th July 2024.

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Trad (Worked): VS
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E1

John Cleare:

But rock was his medium. On it he was superb. He was tall and slim with powerful arms and steel fingers and he moved over it with the ease and grace of an elongated leopard—never have I seen him awkward or harassed on even the most uncompromising climb. Whatever move he made it was photogenic. Bubbling with enthusiasm and assurance one could want no better companion on the rope and he was the safest climber with whom I have shared it. His death is such an ironic tragedy. [1]

References

[1] Obituary in the Alpine Journal 1977 by John Cleare. Alpine Journal 1977 265-273 In Memoriam

Contributors: remus
Added on 3rd December 2021. Last updated on 27th July 2024.

Ascents

13 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Date
1953 Original Route HVS Lead 1953
First ascent.

With some aid.
1954 Congo Corner HVS Lead 1954
First ascent.
1955 Moyer's Buttress E1 Lead | onsight 1955
First ascent.

Eric Byne:

one of the boldest feats of cragmanship that this era has seen. [1]

References

[1] Obituary in the Alpine Journal 1977 by John Cleare. Alpine Journal 1977 265-273 In Memoriam
Little Brown Jug VS Alternate Leads | worked 1955
First ascent.

John Cleare:

Doing his national service in Northumberland, he secured a 48 hour leave-pass and hitch-hiked 200 miles to his home at Leicester. Barrie [Biven] was waiting with his motor-bike and they rode 300 miles through the night into the W. By dawn and in a semi-trance they were already working upwards on a major virgin section of the Bosigran Face. The crux, at over 200ft, seemed impossible until Peter's questing hand slotted into a hidden hold. Little Brown Jug is a superb climb by any standard. [1]

References

[1] Obituary in the Alpine Journal 1977 by John Cleare. Alpine Journal 1977 265-273 In Memoriam
Suicide Wall E1 Alternate Leads Aug 1955
First ascent. With Trevor Peck and Barrie Biven.
1956 London Wall E5 Aid 1956
First ascent.

First aid ascent, utilising specially made thin pegs. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 47.
Hearse Arête E1 Lead 1956
First ascent.
The Eye of Faith E1 Lead 1956
First ascent.
1957
1958
1959
1960
1961
1962
1963
1964
1965
1966
1967 Moonraker HVS Alternate Leads | onsight 6th Aug 1967
First ascent. With Pat Littlejohn.
1968
1969 Seventh Dread E1 Alternate Leads 5th Apr 1969
First ascent. With Pat Littlejohn and Frank Cannings.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
London Wall E5 Aid 1956
First ascent.

First aid ascent, utilising specially made thin pegs. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 47.
Moyer's Buttress E1 Lead | onsight 1955
First ascent.

Eric Byne:

one of the boldest feats of cragmanship that this era has seen. [1]

References

[1] Obituary in the Alpine Journal 1977 by John Cleare. Alpine Journal 1977 265-273 In Memoriam
Suicide Wall E1 Alternate Leads Aug 1955
First ascent. With Trevor Peck and Barrie Biven.
Hearse Arête E1 Lead 1956
First ascent.
The Eye of Faith E1 Lead 1956
First ascent.
Seventh Dread E1 Alternate Leads 5th Apr 1969
First ascent. With Pat Littlejohn and Frank Cannings.
Thin Wall Special E1 Lead
First ascent.
Original Route HVS Lead 1953
First ascent.

With some aid.
Congo Corner HVS Lead 1954
First ascent.
Moonraker HVS Alternate Leads | onsight 6th Aug 1967
First ascent. With Pat Littlejohn.
Ferryboat Highway HVS Lead
First ascent.
Little Brown Jug VS Alternate Leads | worked 1955
First ascent.

John Cleare:

Doing his national service in Northumberland, he secured a 48 hour leave-pass and hitch-hiked 200 miles to his home at Leicester. Barrie [Biven] was waiting with his motor-bike and they rode 300 miles through the night into the W. By dawn and in a semi-trance they were already working upwards on a major virgin section of the Bosigran Face. The crux, at over 200ft, seemed impossible until Peter's questing hand slotted into a hidden hold. Little Brown Jug is a superb climb by any standard. [1]

References

[1] Obituary in the Alpine Journal 1977 by John Cleare. Alpine Journal 1977 265-273 In Memoriam
Anvil Chorus VS Alternate Leads
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade