| From: | USA 🇺🇸 |
| Date of birth: | 27th October 1958 |
| Age: | 47 years old |
| Date of death: | 23rd October 2006 |
| Gender: | Male |
| Hardest Sport (Worked): | 8b+ |
| Hardest Trad (Worked): | E8 |
| Notable Partnerships | |
| Paul Piana | |
Todd Skinner (1958-2006) was one of the early developers of sport climbing in the USA. He continued to establish many sport climbing routes throughout his lifetime.
Skinner sadly died while attempting to free a route on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite National Park when his belay loop failed.
Skinner was notable for pushing redpoint tactics in sport climbing, at a time when many of the big name climbers (particularly John Bachar and many of the Yosemite locals) were advocating a ground-up style.
Because of Skinner's ability and his willingness to accept redpoint tactics his routes were near the cutting edge of what was being done in the United States at the time.
[1] Hangdog Days, by Jeff Smoot https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hangdog-Days-Conflict-Change-Race/dp/1680512323/
[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4IMQ1Kr0z7yHcvst6pTtx6
[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/7bwpZYUNfI40GyNp43gNKU
5 recorded ascents.
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lizzy Beams Desire | 8b+ | Lead | worked | 1989 | |
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First ascent.
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| City Park | 8b | Lead | worked | 1986 | |
|
First ascent.
Redpointed after extensive working, controversial with some at the time as US climbing debated the validity of this versus more traditional ground-up and yo-yo styles. On the successful ascent the final 5.11 part of the crack was found to be smeared with grease by persons unknown and Skinner completed the route by climbing, onsight, a variation finish on adjacent face holds. References[1] Jeff Smoot (2019). Hangdog Days. USA: Mountaineers Books p196-206 |
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| Wet Lycra Nightmare | 8b | Lead | worked | 2004 | |
|
First ascent.
References |
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| Salathé Wall | 8a+ | Alternate Leads | worked | 1988 | |
|
First ascent. With Paul Piana.
First free ascent and a psychological breakthrough: the first time a route on the main face of El Capitan had been freed. Climbed alternating hard leads with second jumaring and with the headwall split into three pitches. |
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| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Renegade | E8 | Lead | worked | 1985 | |
|
First ascent. Pre-placed gear.
A controversial ascent at the time as Skinner abseiled the route to pre-place pins for protection then practiced the moves by dogging up the route, a practice which was frowned upon by the Yosemite crowd of the time. |
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| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
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