Turning Point | A4+ Aid Climb on El Capitan

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Unrepeated (2026) route with a combination of run-out 5.11+ free climbing and hard aid taking rock to the left of The Nose (A2) and subsequently weaving around Muir Wall (A4). Some parts may coincide with The Direct Line (E8) with the latter adding extra bolts.

The lower free pitches were established with a belayer and no chalk. These pitches need to be retrofitted BY ME before they are remotely reasonable for a repeat. I should be able in the process to produce an all free start to the Free Blast at 5.12a or so. I have to respectfully ask people to stay off the route if they are not up for the demands of the lower pitches. These pitches are the reason that the route remains unrepeated in its entirety.

I have never released a topo because I have held out some hope that this route and my typical micronutting efforts might survive some repeats if my climbing style is better understood and respected. With so many wall climbers willing to chisel and stuff copperheads into everything they see, my concern is well justified.

References

[1] http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1023273/Steve-Grossman-care-to-reflect-for-us-on-Turning-Point