Supergroove | E6/7b+ Trad climb at Mt Eden Quarry


Trad. with one peg on the first ascent, now a bolt. Probably the hardest route in Oceania at the time.

References

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rock_climbing_in_New_Zealand#1970s

[2] https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/auckland/ags-rockwall/long-side-left-hand-side-closed/supergroove

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48 contributions since 3rd April 2026.

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No grade suggestions for this climb.

Ascents

1 successful ascent and 1 unsuccessful attempt recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
First ascent.

On a first attempt McBirney fell at the crux and ended in hospital. He then placed a piton (now a bolt).

Graded 24 (7a/+) which underplayed hard climbing for the mid 1970s.

References

[1] https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/auckland/ags-rockwall/long-side-left-hand-side-closed/supergroove

John dislocated his shoulder attempting the route. Reoccurrences troubled him for several years subsequently.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/shine_your_weird_light_-_kiwi_ingenuity_in_antipodean_climbing-16199