Niobe | 8c+ Sport route at Spettacolo

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Adam initially suggested 9a but revised this to 8c+ after a few repeats.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fnkPyHx92_E

[2] https://fanatic-climbing.com/opinion-adam-ondra-a-la-dalle-fa-dun-9a-positif-opinion-adam-ondra-opens-a-9a-slab/

Initially suggested 9a (soft) but later added the following to his 8a.nu comment:

UPDATE: after the ascents of people with more experience on this style the route might be around the 8c or 8c+ range. Anyway, this is still an incredible route and I'd suggest it to anyone that wants a challenging slab.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DSuoSvEjD8K/?img_index=1

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alessandro-zeni-repeats-niobe-arco.html

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DU0kXubiGlc/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZL9D4YI4EI

One of the very best routes i’ve ever climbed. Very hard to grade this kind of climbing, where beta, shoes and most importantly knowing it’s actually possible makes a huge difference. Took me only 3 tries, way less than other hard slabs i’ve climbed (magic line, lurking fear - even though those are a completely different style), i think it’s definitely easier than those, 8c seems fair. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/italy/due-sassimonte-velo/sectors/a-spettacolo/routes/niobe