Rewind | E9/8a+ Trad climb at Carn Vellan

First ascent.

The climbing is now much harder since presumably the "bolt-choppers" unfortunately "removed" a small flake from inside a hold (possibly to hold their abseil rope in with a nut) thereby increasing the difficulty of the original F8a+ climbing. The "new nut placement" is useless on the lead as it hinders the ascent. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 95, page 10 and 14

Carn Vellan is a special crag with its own atmosphere. How did you find it?

Conditions are the hard part, it can't be too warm, you need good wind, low (spring/autumn) sun and a longish dry period of weather. Of course a calm see is the icing on the cake. The atmosphere is challenging at the beginning but the more time you spent there, the more pleasant it gets. Starting off a huge boulder (“the gnomes”) adds to the story.

How many attempts before success?

I didn't count attempts. Did few trips just to work out gear, conditions and crux. That time I was only TR soloing. I also copied crux on my home wall. When all rock got cleaner and I started sticking crux I made two "close" lead attempts. Next weather got too hot, lock-down happened, and I had to wait till May for cooler conditions. On final day I failed on first attempt, when entering top crack, second go was the one. All my lead attempts were lead rope solo.

Did you put all the gear in on lead? Or was some in place?

Yes, all gear was placed on lead, there is no fixed gear on route.

Where is the crux?

Main Crux is about 7m up the route. However the start got harder after I snapped a few holds off and also just after crux. Route now has no glued or cemented holds.

Would you give the route any stars?

It's a pretty line with great variety of movement, on very steep rock, it's natural with no fixed gear. Apart from the start all difficulties are well protected. It deserves 3 stars.

Can you explain your self-belaying system and what gadgets did you use?

I used CT Easy Move for T.R. practice and W.C. Revo for rope lead solo. I mounted Revo on the bottom anchor. This is different than most common lead rope solo set ups. None of my methods are recognised as safe and both devices were used against manufacturer’s guidance and recommendation.

Did you do any specific training - dieting/visualisations?

Yes, I drunk vodka, smoked pipe ,and ate pasties only on rest days. I copied the crux onto my woodie and kept looking at it when doing endless power stamina circuits. In free time I also deeply contemplated British grading system! I eat a lot of veg, eggs and quality Polish sausages. Supplementing on: IBCAA, sleep, sun and good vibe.

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg611491.html#msg611491

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/rewind_carn_vellan_2nd_ascent-720886