preMuir | E8/8a+ Multi-pitch on El Capitan

More

• Change Log
• Threads

With James Mchaffie, who also freed it, and Neil Dyer.

With Hazel Findlay, who also freed it, and Neil Dyer.

Climbed Ground up over two days, though he had previously climbed the 6 pitches shared with the Triple Direct. Onsighted the crux 13 c/d pitch.

References

[1] https://blackdiamondequipment.com/blogs/stories/spring-quarter

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DQZMPpHDK-o/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DQZMPpHDK-o/

[2] https://gripped.com/news/64748italians-free-35-pitch-5-13c-d-on-el-capitan/

Style note: I did a handful of day missions from the ground to check out the first couple of crux pitches and prehaul supplies before committing to a push. Once on the wall, I swapped leads with Brent for most of the route but led every crux pitch. I did use some preplaced gear in the stem corner and the final 13c. And finally, I took the no hands stance in the stem pitch as my first time ever ‘stancing’ a pitch because I did not have time to retry the entire thing in trying to work around both the sun/heat situation and an upcoming storm day. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DRUx5SoDmJy/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DRmyHxojL9W/