Devilution | 8C+ Boulder problem at The Buttermilks

United States / California / Inyo County
UKClimbing.com | 8a.nu | mountainproject.com
Highball. Low start to Evilution Direct. See also Evilution and Evilution to the Lip.

Evilution/Evilution Direct usually starts from stacked pads, this is the proper stand start. It only adds two moves to the start of the problem, but those two moves are incredibly hard bumping the grade from 8A/+ to 8C+.

It was a long standing and well known project before Sean Bailey made the first ascent in 2024.

Contributors
49 contributions since 29th January 2024.

Lists

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Fontainebleau

8C+ 8C+ (hard) No vote
1 1 1

Ascents

3 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
First ascent.

Keenan Takahashi commenting on Sean's ascent:

It is hard to explain without a full conversation, but I truly believe this first move is top 5 hardest in the world right now. It's also a bit unique because the feet are quite high and bunchy, so it suits shorter folks a bit (generally rare for the upper end of hard boulders, at least currently). Time will tell but I feel like this one is certainly one of the hardest of the grade and would not be surprised by an upgrade by future ascensionist(s). So yes, Sean may have climbed V17 in two sessions.

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/5bnU43rvODIPSRk5rsfSnC?

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C2202DBP8i8/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/reel/C2u9q9htHjj/
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/YafSnTSMOKY?
Third ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DUgj4wiElxk/?img_index=1