Devilution | 8C+ Boulder problem at The Buttermilks

UKClimbing.com
Highball. Low start to Evilution Direct. See also Evilution and Evilution to the Lip.

Evilution/Evilution Direct usually starts from stacked pads so this is the 'proper' stand start. It only adds two moves to the start of the problem, but those two moves are incredibly hard and bump the grade from 8A/+ to 8C+.

It was a long standing and well known project before Sean Bailey made the first ascent in 2024.

Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Sean Bailey
Added at 17:01 on 29 January 2024
Sean Bailey
View this post on Instagram

Added at 20:02 on 02 February 2024
Sean Bailey
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Added at 09:02 on 04 February 2024
Shawn Raboutou
Added at 21:04 on 03 April 2024

Ascents

2 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Sean Bailey Boulder | worked Jan 2024
First ascent.

Keenan Takahashi commenting on Sean's ascent:

It is hard to explain without a full conversation, but I truly believe this first move is top 5 hardest in the world right now. It's also a bit unique because the feet are quite high and bunchy, so it suits shorter folks a bit (generally rare for the upper end of hard boulders, at least currently). Time will tell but I feel like this one is certainly one of the hardest of the grade and would not be surprised by an upgrade by future ascensionist(s). So yes, Sean may have climbed V17 in two sessions.

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/5bnU43rvODIPSRk5rsfSnC?

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C2202DBP8i8/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/reel/C2u9q9htHjj/
Shawn Raboutou Boulder | worked Between 1st Jan 2024 and 3rd Apr 2024
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/YafSnTSMOKY?