The 1938 Route | ED2 Alpine at Eiger

Switzerland / Canton of Bern / Interlaken-Oberhasli District

Also known as Heckmair Route.
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65 contributions since 31st December 2025.
59 contributions since 19th July 2023.

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No grade suggestions for this climb.

Ascents

13 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Heinrich Harrer Alternate Leads | alpine Between 21st Jul 1938 and 24th Jul 1938
First ascent. With Fritz Kasparek.
First ascent. With Heinrich Harrer.

Kasparek started the route with Harrer, joining forces with Vörg and Heckmair after the latter team caught them up on the route.

First ascent. With Ludwig Vörg.

Heckmair started the climb with Vörg. They caught up with Harrer and Kasparek who had started the climb independently before them. The two teams joined forces after which Heckmair led the majority of the hard climbing.

References

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eiger#First_ascent_of_the_north_face

Ludwig Vörg Alternate Leads | alpine Between 21st Jul 1938 and 24th Jul 1938
First ascent. With Anderl Heckmair.
With Chris Bonington.

First British ascent.

The first American ascent.

With Ian Clough.

First British ascent.

With Rusty Baillie.

Second 'British' ascent (Baillie was from Rhodesia - now Zimbabwe).

With Dougal Haston.

Second 'British' ascent (Baillie was from Rhodesia - now Zimbabwe).

First Briton to solo the route.

With Brendan Murphy.
With Robert Durran.
First female ascent.