The 1938 Route | ED2 Alpine on the Eiger

Switzerland / Canton of Bern / Interlaken-Oberhasli District

Also known as Heckmair Route.
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Ascents

15 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Ludwig Vörg Alternate Leads | alpine 21st-24th July 1938
First ascent. With Anderl Heckmair.
Heinrich Harrer Alternate Leads | alpine 21st-24th July 1938
First ascent. With Fritz Kasparek.
First ascent. With Ludwig Vörg.

Heckmair started the climb with Vörg. They caught up with Harrer and Kasparek who had started the climb independently before them. The two teams joined forces after which Heckmair led the majority of the hard climbing.

References

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eiger#First_ascent_of_the_north_face

First ascent. With Heinrich Harrer.

Kasparek started the route with Harrer, joining forces with Vörg and Heckmair after the latter team caught them up on the route.

The first American ascent.

With Ian Clough.

First British ascent.

With Chris Bonington.

First British ascent.

With Rusty Baillie.

Second 'British' ascent (Baillie was from Rhodesia - now Zimbabwe).

With Dougal Haston.

Second 'British' ascent (Baillie was from Rhodesia - now Zimbabwe).

With Peter Habeler. 10hrs 00mins.

The previous fastest time was 18 hours, and it would take another 30 years before their time was beaten!

References

[1] https://gripped.com/news/peter-habeler-receives-award-for-lifetime-of-bold-climbs/

With Reinhold Messner. 10hrs 00mins.

The previous fastest time was 18 hours, and it would take another 30 years before their time was beaten!

References

[1] https://gripped.com/news/peter-habeler-receives-award-for-lifetime-of-bold-climbs/

First Briton to solo the route.

With Robert Durran.
With Brendan Murphy.
First female ascent.