Gakidō | 8C+ Boulder problem

There is potential for a low start which adds a 4 move ~8B in to the existing problem.

Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Shinichiro Nomura
View this post on Instagram

Added at 10:03 on 21 March 2022
Shinichiro Nomura
Added at 06:06 on 28 June 2022
Ryuichi Murai
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:11 on 03 November 2022

Ascents

2 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Shinichiro Nomura Boulder (Worked) 20th Mar 2022
First ascent.

Finally i sent the old project, known as one of the biggest japanese routes. In addition to bad holdings, i struggle with the worst positioning that i’ve never felt, compared with some over V15 projects. However i managed to send by my sense that i found. Although Japanese routes require a lot of moves and are hard to connect as a whole, this route is short and severe. but the shape of boulder is awesome so i’m really happy that i sent it.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CbXGkkQJx1A/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rN5Z3V4QYtA

Ryuichi Murai Boulder (Worked) 2nd Nov 2022

This line is an old project completed by Nomsin in March of this year and consists of only 4 moves. Moreover, the actual difficulty is concentrated in the second move (aiming for the next hold while fully locking the body in an unstable state). This day was the third day of trying, and the temperature was cooler than when I tried for two days last year, so the conditions were perfect. Thanks to that, I was able to grab the pinch hold in a hard direction in a stable state, and I continued to make a lot of close tries. After several adjustments to the trajectory of the move, I finally succeeded in the second move and was able to send it. As for the grade, it's difficult to evaluate because it's very short, but I feel it's easier than the V16s I've climbed so far. The low start project joins Gakido after four crimpy moves like V13. The most difficult part was reaching the start position of Gakido, and unfortunately I couldn't do it on this day. Connecting from below will increase the difficulty of Gakido greatly. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkgMghwp5Bw/

[2] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/chigobutai/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/gakido/