Terranova | 8C+ Boulder problem

8a.nu
See also Nova.

Terranova is a boulder problem in the Moravsky Kras area of the Czech Republic established by Adam Ondra in 2011 as his first 8C+. The problem is around 17 moves long. Adam described it as

This boulder is foremost about it's difficulty. I would like to emphasize that it is not the most beautiful, exposed line in the world. It does not go on top of the stone but it is only a traverse at the beginning of the wall. I always thought that it won't be possible. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-frees-terranova-8c-.html

Contributors
remus
8 contributions since 6th December 2021.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

2 recorded ascents, including 1 unsuccessful ascent.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Adam Ondra Boulder | worked 10th Nov 2011
First ascent. 11 sessions.

For sure, for many boulderers it would not be motivating at all. But I had my dream-holds, that kept circling in my mind, I kept wondering if there was a way to traverse this part of the wall. And also I had a project close to my home, with good conditions even if it is 18 degrees outside (fresh breeze from inside the cave, additionally limestone is not aggressive for skin). [2]

References

[1] https://youtu.be/QeR47AQ05Jo?t=71

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/8c+boulder_by_ondra_updated-_comments_from_adam-64987

[3] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-frees-terranova-8c-.html
Charles Albert Boulder | did not finish

Charles came pretty close using a very unconventional sequence.

Adam Ondra:

His ability of using his toes to his advantage and finding betas which are I think completely impossible for anybody else was incredible. So basically Terranova is 3 move intro into 5 move crux into 8A+ topout, and he did the 5 move crux basically in 1 move! Doing this crazy crossover from the worst hold on the problem straight into this undercling which you normally take like a shoulder. A move which no one really ever considered before, but there is sort of like an ok edge which is quite good, but it is really far to the right, and with a climbing shoe...maybe now, thinking about it, maybe it is possible, but him doing it with his big toe, just wrapping his big toe on this little spike, he just makes it look like so easy, even though it's the hardest move I've ever witnessed anyone doing. [2]

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/5ddM0YDlUz2cC0MaOWkuo9

[2] Adam Ondra discusses Charles' attempts with Sam Prior and Aidan Roberts https://open.spotify.com/episode/7nRXraACy5I3MmscNlyqVR?