La Révolutionnaire | 8C+ Boulder problem

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First ascent.

References

[1] http://fanatic-climbing.com/charles-albert-propose-un-nouveau-8c-bellifontain-charles-albert-claims-an-8c-first-ascent-in-font/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-nsiwzltVI

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CZ40nbqtHfS/

[2] https://fanatic-climbing.com/simon-lorenzi-repete-la-revolutionnaire-simon-lorenzi-repeats-la-revolutionnaire/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VdgtiriKec

There were some (at least for me) doubts regarding the starting holds. I first did it from a version which is a mix between the old (2016) and the new (2017) starting position. This was to me the logical place where to start the sequence. The latest starting position of Charles Albert (first ascensionist of both versions) was apparently out of reach for my size. I managed to figure out two betas from the hold he used, but I couldn’t physically fit my body into the narrow hole at the bottom. Some days ago I came back to Gros Sablons and I opted to play on the proper start once again. I figured out a slightly different heel hook placement: half cm a bit more to the left. This was a little change that made my body fit into the hole without touching all the rocks around.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CbFEorTNxvF/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/tv/CbId16vDToH/

[3] https://www.flickr.com/photos/140042526@N06/52700712953/in/photostream/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CpIdPEfDJcH/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CrDM7QbtrTb/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-wuFC_u7-s

9 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/news/jabee-kim-completes-la-revolutionnaire-8c%2B