| Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 21 | 25th October 2024 | 16:58:20 | remus | ascent | The Burning Sphincter | notes | |
|
Before
Originally an E5 trad route.
[https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994606457425](https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994606457425)
After
Originally an E5 trad route.
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,3 +1 @@
-Originally an E5 trad route.
-
-[https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994606457425](https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994606457425)
+Originally an E5 trad route.
|
|||||||
| 22 | 25th October 2024 | 16:58:20 | remus | ascent | The Burning Sphincter | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Originally an E5 trad route.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994606457425">https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994606457425</a></p>
After
<p>Originally an E5 trad route.</p>
|
|||||||
| 23 | 25th October 2024 | 16:58:09 | remus | ascent | The Tormented Ejaculation | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<blockquote>
<p>...my own attempts from 1980 have been well wagged about. I call them The Tormented Ejaculation - not just mere climbing, but an expression of the flesh and blood of my work, the poetry of rock-movement inextricably bound up with the network of shape and colour. A last look at the line and a strange impulse took hold of me. I went for it. At 70ft I woke up. Ghastly! The aggression was dissipated and the fear gripped me. I had climbed with no protection and was now eyeballing a tiny shallow crack. I remembered it from the abseil and it had looked pathetic. It was real now. I contemplated jumping on the scree below before the situation got out of control. I fell a million times, my arms unfolding, my breath fading. A no. 1 stopper came to a halt, half-way down this crack, half in, rocking - my weight was on it...the mental preparation was becoming harder and harder. The so-called psyching up, a pain beyond reason. Out of the accquaintance grew more and more fear. Gone the initial naivety that had sparked off this terrifying enterprise. I knew the score and was unnerved by it...I distinctly felt a tiny slide on a friction move lower down and became very insecure, with my feet in canyon boots. I got to the little crack another 20 feet up and was dangerously pumped because of the extra strain on my fingers. The resin was wearing off the boots. I managed to place an RP1, clipped in, and was about to place a No 2 when my right foot shot off.The strain came on the RP, ripped it through, and I cartwheeled a long way down the wall. [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115865133203706&set=a.115862679870618">https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115865133203706&set=a.115862679870618</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115865649870321&set=a.115862679870618">https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115865649870321&set=a.115862679870618</a></p>
<p>[3] Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Climbers' Club Guides) 2004, <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a></p>
After
<blockquote>
<p>...my own attempts from 1980 have been well wagged about. I call them The Tormented Ejaculation - not just mere climbing, but an expression of the flesh and blood of my work, the poetry of rock-movement inextricably bound up with the network of shape and colour. A last look at the line and a strange impulse took hold of me. I went for it. At 70ft I woke up. Ghastly! The aggression was dissipated and the fear gripped me. I had climbed with no protection and was now eyeballing a tiny shallow crack. I remembered it from the abseil and it had looked pathetic. It was real now. I contemplated jumping on the scree below before the situation got out of control. I fell a million times, my arms unfolding, my breath fading. A no. 1 stopper came to a halt, half-way down this crack, half in, rocking - my weight was on it...the mental preparation was becoming harder and harder. The so-called psyching up, a pain beyond reason. Out of the accquaintance grew more and more fear. Gone the initial naivety that had sparked off this terrifying enterprise. I knew the score and was unnerved by it...I distinctly felt a tiny slide on a friction move lower down and became very insecure, with my feet in canyon boots. I got to the little crack another 20 feet up and was dangerously pumped because of the extra strain on my fingers. The resin was wearing off the boots. I managed to place an RP1, clipped in, and was about to place a No 2 when my right foot shot off.The strain came on the RP, ripped it through, and I cartwheeled a long way down the wall. [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Climbers' Club Guides) 2004, <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 24 | 25th October 2024 | 16:58:09 | remus | ascent | The Tormented Ejaculation | notes | |
|
Before
> ...my own attempts from 1980 have been well wagged about. I call them The Tormented Ejaculation - not just mere climbing, but an expression of the flesh and blood of my work, the poetry of rock-movement inextricably bound up with the network of shape and colour. A last look at the line and a strange impulse took hold of me. I went for it. At 70ft I woke up. Ghastly! The aggression was dissipated and the fear gripped me. I had climbed with no protection and was now eyeballing a tiny shallow crack. I remembered it from the abseil and it had looked pathetic. It was real now. I contemplated jumping on the scree below before the situation got out of control. I fell a million times, my arms unfolding, my breath fading. A no. 1 stopper came to a halt, half-way down this crack, half in, rocking - my weight was on it...the mental preparation was becoming harder and harder. The so-called psyching up, a pain beyond reason. Out of the accquaintance grew more and more fear. Gone the initial naivety that had sparked off this terrifying enterprise. I knew the score and was unnerved by it...I distinctly felt a tiny slide on a friction move lower down and became very insecure, with my feet in canyon boots. I got to the little crack another 20 feet up and was dangerously pumped because of the extra strain on my fingers. The resin was wearing off the boots. I managed to place an RP1, clipped in, and was about to place a No 2 when my right foot shot off.The strain came on the RP, ripped it through, and I cartwheeled a long way down the wall. [3]
[1] [https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115865133203706&set=a.115862679870618](https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115865133203706&set=a.115862679870618)
[2] [https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115865649870321&set=a.115862679870618](https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115865649870321&set=a.115862679870618)
[3] Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Climbers' Club Guides) 2004, [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon)
After
> ...my own attempts from 1980 have been well wagged about. I call them The Tormented Ejaculation - not just mere climbing, but an expression of the flesh and blood of my work, the poetry of rock-movement inextricably bound up with the network of shape and colour. A last look at the line and a strange impulse took hold of me. I went for it. At 70ft I woke up. Ghastly! The aggression was dissipated and the fear gripped me. I had climbed with no protection and was now eyeballing a tiny shallow crack. I remembered it from the abseil and it had looked pathetic. It was real now. I contemplated jumping on the scree below before the situation got out of control. I fell a million times, my arms unfolding, my breath fading. A no. 1 stopper came to a halt, half-way down this crack, half in, rocking - my weight was on it...the mental preparation was becoming harder and harder. The so-called psyching up, a pain beyond reason. Out of the accquaintance grew more and more fear. Gone the initial naivety that had sparked off this terrifying enterprise. I knew the score and was unnerved by it...I distinctly felt a tiny slide on a friction move lower down and became very insecure, with my feet in canyon boots. I got to the little crack another 20 feet up and was dangerously pumped because of the extra strain on my fingers. The resin was wearing off the boots. I managed to place an RP1, clipped in, and was about to place a No 2 when my right foot shot off.The strain came on the RP, ripped it through, and I cartwheeled a long way down the wall. [3]
### References
[1] Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Climbers' Club Guides) 2004, [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,7 +1,5 @@
> ...my own attempts from 1980 have been well wagged about. I call them The Tormented Ejaculation - not just mere climbing, but an expression of the flesh and blood of my work, the poetry of rock-movement inextricably bound up with the network of shape and colour. A last look at the line and a strange impulse took hold of me. I went for it. At 70ft I woke up. Ghastly! The aggression was dissipated and the fear gripped me. I had climbed with no protection and was now eyeballing a tiny shallow crack. I remembered it from the abseil and it had looked pathetic. It was real now. I contemplated jumping on the scree below before the situation got out of control. I fell a million times, my arms unfolding, my breath fading. A no. 1 stopper came to a halt, half-way down this crack, half in, rocking - my weight was on it...the mental preparation was becoming harder and harder. The so-called psyching up, a pain beyond reason. Out of the accquaintance grew more and more fear. Gone the initial naivety that had sparked off this terrifying enterprise. I knew the score and was unnerved by it...I distinctly felt a tiny slide on a friction move lower down and became very insecure, with my feet in canyon boots. I got to the little crack another 20 feet up and was dangerously pumped because of the extra strain on my fingers. The resin was wearing off the boots. I managed to place an RP1, clipped in, and was about to place a No 2 when my right foot shot off.The strain came on the RP, ripped it through, and I cartwheeled a long way down the wall. [3]
-[1] [https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115865133203706&set=a.115862679870618](https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115865133203706&set=a.115862679870618)
+### References
-[2] [https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115865649870321&set=a.115862679870618](https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115865649870321&set=a.115862679870618)
-
-[3] Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Climbers' Club Guides) 2004, [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon)
+[1] Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Climbers' Club Guides) 2004, [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon)
|
|||||||
| 25 | 25th October 2024 | 16:57:42 | remus | ascent | The Wrinkled Retainer | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618">https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618</a></p>
After
None
|
|||||||
| 26 | 25th October 2024 | 16:57:42 | remus | ascent | The Wrinkled Retainer | notes | |
|
Before
### References
[1] [https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618](https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618)
After
None
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,3 +1 @@
-### References
-[1] [https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618](https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618)
|
|||||||
| 27 | 25th October 2024 | 16:57:33 | remus | ascent | Bananas | notes | |
|
Before
### References
[1] [https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618](https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618)
After
None
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,3 +1 @@
-### References
-
-[1] [https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618](https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618)
+
|
|||||||
| 28 | 25th October 2024 | 16:57:33 | remus | ascent | Bananas | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618">https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618</a></p>
After
None
|
|||||||
| 29 | 25th October 2024 | 16:57:20 | remus | ascent | The Sexual Salami | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115299136593639">https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115299136593639</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863236537229&set=a.115862679870618">https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863236537229&set=a.115862679870618</a></p>
After
None
|
|||||||
| 30 | 25th October 2024 | 16:57:20 | remus | ascent | The Sexual Salami | notes | |
|
Before
[https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115299136593639](https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115299136593639)
[https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863236537229&set=a.115862679870618](https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863236537229&set=a.115862679870618)
After
None
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,3 +1 @@
-[https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115299136593639](https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115299136593639)
-
-[https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863236537229&set=a.115862679870618](https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863236537229&set=a.115862679870618)
+
|
|||||||
| 31 | 5th July 2024 | 16:13:32 | remus | ascent | Master's Wall | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<blockquote>
<p><a href="/climb/1034">Margins</a> is more strenuous and technical but Master's is a much harder lead. The crux and substance of the route done in 1980 by myself.</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137">https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137</a></p>
After
<blockquote>
<p><a href="/climb/1034">Margins</a> is more strenuous and technical but Master's is a much harder lead. The crux and substance of the route done in 1980 by myself.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137">https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 32 | 5th July 2024 | 16:13:32 | remus | ascent | Master's Wall | notes | |
|
Before
> [Margins](/climb/1034) is more strenuous and technical but Master's is a much harder lead. The crux and substance of the route done in 1980 by myself.
[https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137](https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137)
After
> [Margins](/climb/1034) is more strenuous and technical but Master's is a much harder lead. The crux and substance of the route done in 1980 by myself.
### References
[1] [https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137](https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,3 +1,5 @@
> [Margins](/climb/1034) is more strenuous and technical but Master's is a much harder lead. The crux and substance of the route done in 1980 by myself.
-[https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137](https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137)
+### References
+
+[1] [https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137](https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137)
|
|||||||
| 33 | 1st July 2024 | 13:35:45 | remus | ascent | Poetry Pink | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374089819477">https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374089819477</a></p>
After
None
|
|||||||
| 34 | 1st July 2024 | 13:35:45 | remus | ascent | Poetry Pink | notes | |
|
Before
### References
[1] [https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374089819477](https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374089819477)
After
None
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,3 +1 @@
-### References
-[1] [https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374089819477](https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374089819477)
|
|||||||
| 35 | 31st May 2024 | 06:49:09 | remus | ascent | Barbarossa | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>First free ascent.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618">https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618</a></p>
After
None
|
|||||||
| 36 | 31st May 2024 | 06:49:09 | remus | ascent | Barbarossa | notes | |
|
Before
First free ascent.
[https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618](https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618)
After
None
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,3 +1 @@
-First free ascent.
-
-[https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618](https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618)
+
|
|||||||
| 37 | 1st May 2024 | 21:20:42 | remus | ascent | The Dillusioned Screw Machine | notes | |
|
Before
With 1pt of aid.
[https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994789790740](https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994789790740)
After
None
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,3 +1 @@
-With 1pt of aid.
-
-[https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994789790740](https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994789790740)
+
|
|||||||
| 38 | 1st May 2024 | 21:20:42 | remus | ascent | The Dillusioned Screw Machine | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>With 1pt of aid.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994789790740">https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994789790740</a></p>
After
None
|
|||||||
| 39 | 28th April 2024 | 10:49:51 | remus | ascent | Margins of the Mind | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
None
After
<blockquote>
<p>Probably the hardest thing I did at the time, and I was going really well. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQzdrpFm_Pg">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQzdrpFm_Pg</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 40 | 28th April 2024 | 10:49:51 | remus | ascent | Margins of the Mind | notes | |
|
Before
None
After
> Probably the hardest thing I did at the time, and I was going really well. [1]
### References
[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQzdrpFm_Pg](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQzdrpFm_Pg)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1 +1,5 @@
-
+> Probably the hardest thing I did at the time, and I was going really well. [1]
+
+### References
+
+[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQzdrpFm_Pg](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQzdrpFm_Pg)
|
|||||||