Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
61 | 13th June 2024 | 05:38:11 | remus | ascent | MaDMAn | notes | |
Before
Also added a direct finish.
> Thanks chaps! In answer to some of the questions; to best of my knowledge this was the second ascent of MaDMAn, although you never know, it has been nearly twenty years since the FA! From the position Dave is in that picture his original line bridges out into Trident, the neighbouring HVS, and finishes up this. This manoeuvre is still tricky! On the day the very green sidewalls of Trident were pretty gopping too. I found that if instead you did another move up to stand higher (eeek!) on the "ledge" then you could reach round enough to get a bomber rock 12 in the base of the wedged block trident feature after which the HVS is named (although not enough to actually reach any holds / an HVS position!), then just carry straight on up the upper arête from the same spot. Its a balancey position and feels pretty spooky / falloffable to place but it is definitely en route and seemed like a good idea as the route was wet when we arrived and the upper section relies on quite a few pebble footholds and recently de-mossed handholds. Top section probably E6 6b on its own and you could actually do it as a separate route starting up Trident I suppose? Its really excellent climbing. As TB says once you get that gear in the top feels very enjoyable so I doubt it changes the original grade. I see it as an extension to MaDMAn rather than a new route, obviously if Dave Pegg had bothered to take a rope and harness he would have cruised up it I'm sure. [2]
### References
[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU)
[2] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692)
After
Also added a direct finish.
> Thanks chaps! In answer to some of the questions; to best of my knowledge this was the second ascent of MaDMAn, although you never know, it has been nearly twenty years since the FA! From the position Dave is in that picture his original line bridges out into Trident, the neighbouring HVS, and finishes up this. This manoeuvre is still tricky! On the day the very green sidewalls of Trident were pretty gopping too. I found that if instead you did another move up to stand higher (eeek!) on the "ledge" then you could reach round enough to get a bomber rock 12 in the base of the wedged block trident feature after which the HVS is named (although not enough to actually reach any holds / an HVS position!), then just carry straight on up the upper arête from the same spot. Its a balancey position and feels pretty spooky / falloffable to place but it is definitely en route and seemed like a good idea as the route was wet when we arrived and the upper section relies on quite a few pebble footholds and recently de-mossed handholds. Top section probably E6 6b on its own and you could actually do it as a separate route starting up Trident I suppose? Its really excellent climbing. As TB says once you get that gear in the top feels very enjoyable so I doubt it changes the original grade. I see it as an extension to MaDMAn rather than a new route, obviously if Dave Pegg had bothered to take a rope and harness he would have cruised up it I'm sure. [2]
### References
[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU)
[2] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692)
[3] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/04/madman_2nd_ascent_for_nige_kershaw-68872](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/04/madman_2nd_ascent_for_nige_kershaw-68872)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -6,4 +6,6 @@
[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU)
-[2] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692)
+[2] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692)
+
+[3] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/04/madman_2nd_ascent_for_nige_kershaw-68872](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/04/madman_2nd_ascent_for_nige_kershaw-68872)
|
|||||||
62 | 13th June 2024 | 05:38:11 | remus | ascent | MaDMAn | notes_pretty | |
Before
<p>Also added a direct finish.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Thanks chaps! In answer to some of the questions; to best of my knowledge this was the second ascent of MaDMAn, although you never know, it has been nearly twenty years since the FA! From the position Dave is in that picture his original line bridges out into Trident, the neighbouring HVS, and finishes up this. This manoeuvre is still tricky! On the day the very green sidewalls of Trident were pretty gopping too. I found that if instead you did another move up to stand higher (eeek!) on the "ledge" then you could reach round enough to get a bomber rock 12 in the base of the wedged block trident feature after which the HVS is named (although not enough to actually reach any holds / an HVS position!), then just carry straight on up the upper arête from the same spot. Its a balancey position and feels pretty spooky / falloffable to place but it is definitely en route and seemed like a good idea as the route was wet when we arrived and the upper section relies on quite a few pebble footholds and recently de-mossed handholds. Top section probably E6 6b on its own and you could actually do it as a separate route starting up Trident I suppose? Its really excellent climbing. As TB says once you get that gear in the top feels very enjoyable so I doubt it changes the original grade. I see it as an extension to MaDMAn rather than a new route, obviously if Dave Pegg had bothered to take a rope and harness he would have cruised up it I'm sure. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692</a></p>
After
<p>Also added a direct finish.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Thanks chaps! In answer to some of the questions; to best of my knowledge this was the second ascent of MaDMAn, although you never know, it has been nearly twenty years since the FA! From the position Dave is in that picture his original line bridges out into Trident, the neighbouring HVS, and finishes up this. This manoeuvre is still tricky! On the day the very green sidewalls of Trident were pretty gopping too. I found that if instead you did another move up to stand higher (eeek!) on the "ledge" then you could reach round enough to get a bomber rock 12 in the base of the wedged block trident feature after which the HVS is named (although not enough to actually reach any holds / an HVS position!), then just carry straight on up the upper arête from the same spot. Its a balancey position and feels pretty spooky / falloffable to place but it is definitely en route and seemed like a good idea as the route was wet when we arrived and the upper section relies on quite a few pebble footholds and recently de-mossed handholds. Top section probably E6 6b on its own and you could actually do it as a separate route starting up Trident I suppose? Its really excellent climbing. As TB says once you get that gear in the top feels very enjoyable so I doubt it changes the original grade. I see it as an extension to MaDMAn rather than a new route, obviously if Dave Pegg had bothered to take a rope and harness he would have cruised up it I'm sure. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/04/madman_2nd_ascent_for_nige_kershaw-68872">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/04/madman_2nd_ascent_for_nige_kershaw-68872</a></p>
|
|||||||
63 | 23rd April 2024 | 16:19:22 | remus | ascent | Windows of Perception | notes_pretty | |
Before
None
After
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Llanberis Slate. United Kingdom: Ground Up, 2011.</p>
|
|||||||
64 | 23rd April 2024 | 16:19:22 | remus | ascent | Windows of Perception | notes | |
Before
None
After
### References
[1] Llanberis Slate. United Kingdom: Ground Up, 2011.
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1 +1,3 @@
-
+### References
+
+[1] Llanberis Slate. United Kingdom: Ground Up, 2011.
|
|||||||
65 | 23rd April 2024 | 16:18:31 | remus | ascent | Windows of Perception | climb_id | |
Before
None
After
1168
|
|||||||
66 | 23rd April 2024 | 16:18:31 | remus | ascent | Windows of Perception | ascent_dt_end | |
Before
None
After
2010-01-01
|
|||||||
67 | 23rd April 2024 | 16:18:31 | remus | ascent | Windows of Perception | ascent_dt_start | |
Before
None
After
2009-01-01
|
|||||||
68 | 23rd April 2024 | 16:18:31 | remus | ascent | Windows of Perception | ascent_type_id | |
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||
69 | 23rd April 2024 | 16:18:31 | remus | ascent | Windows of Perception | ascent_style_id | |
Before
None
After
2
|
|||||||
70 | 23rd April 2024 | 16:18:31 | remus | ascent | Windows of Perception | climber_id | |
Before
None
After
569
|
|||||||
71 | 9th April 2024 | 21:58:47 | remus | ascent | Duel | notes_pretty | |
Before
<p><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BhB-QypDy9lKHHMZ9UrhONWtFmQhAa4JdTM-AQ0/">https://www.instagram.com/p/BhB-QypDy9lKHHMZ9UrhONWtFmQhAa4JdTM-AQ0/</a></p>
After
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BhB-QypDy9lKHHMZ9UrhONWtFmQhAa4JdTM-AQ0/">https://www.instagram.com/p/BhB-QypDy9lKHHMZ9UrhONWtFmQhAa4JdTM-AQ0/</a></p>
|
|||||||
72 | 9th April 2024 | 21:58:47 | remus | ascent | Duel | notes | |
Before
[https://www.instagram.com/p/BhB-QypDy9lKHHMZ9UrhONWtFmQhAa4JdTM-AQ0/](https://www.instagram.com/p/BhB-QypDy9lKHHMZ9UrhONWtFmQhAa4JdTM-AQ0/)
After
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/BhB-QypDy9lKHHMZ9UrhONWtFmQhAa4JdTM-AQ0/](https://www.instagram.com/p/BhB-QypDy9lKHHMZ9UrhONWtFmQhAa4JdTM-AQ0/)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1 +1,3 @@
-[https://www.instagram.com/p/BhB-QypDy9lKHHMZ9UrhONWtFmQhAa4JdTM-AQ0/](https://www.instagram.com/p/BhB-QypDy9lKHHMZ9UrhONWtFmQhAa4JdTM-AQ0/)
+### References
+
+[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/BhB-QypDy9lKHHMZ9UrhONWtFmQhAa4JdTM-AQ0/](https://www.instagram.com/p/BhB-QypDy9lKHHMZ9UrhONWtFmQhAa4JdTM-AQ0/)
|
|||||||
73 | 27th February 2024 | 07:30:06 | remus | ascent | The Master's Edge | notes_pretty | |
Before
<p><a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg256035.html#msg256035">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg256035.html#msg256035</a></p>
After
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg256035.html#msg256035">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg256035.html#msg256035</a></p>
|
|||||||
74 | 27th February 2024 | 07:30:06 | remus | ascent | The Master's Edge | notes | |
Before
[https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg256035.html#msg256035](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg256035.html#msg256035)
After
### References
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg256035.html#msg256035](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg256035.html#msg256035)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1 +1,3 @@
-[https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg256035.html#msg256035](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg256035.html#msg256035)
+### References
+
+[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg256035.html#msg256035](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg256035.html#msg256035)
|
|||||||
75 | 24th February 2024 | 21:05:43 | remus | ascent | Dynamics of Change | notes_pretty | |
Before
<p>Second ascent.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/big_news_on_the_grit_dynamics_of_change_and_captain_invincible-68756">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/big_news_on_the_grit_dynamics_of_change_and_captain_invincible-68756</a></p>
After
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/big_news_on_the_grit_dynamics_of_change_and_captain_invincible-68756">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/big_news_on_the_grit_dynamics_of_change_and_captain_invincible-68756</a></p>
|
|||||||
76 | 24th February 2024 | 21:05:43 | remus | ascent | Dynamics of Change | notes | |
Before
Second ascent.
[https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/big_news_on_the_grit_dynamics_of_change_and_captain_invincible-68756](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/big_news_on_the_grit_dynamics_of_change_and_captain_invincible-68756)
After
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/big_news_on_the_grit_dynamics_of_change_and_captain_invincible-68756](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/big_news_on_the_grit_dynamics_of_change_and_captain_invincible-68756)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,3 +1,3 @@
-Second ascent.
+### References
-[https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/big_news_on_the_grit_dynamics_of_change_and_captain_invincible-68756](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/big_news_on_the_grit_dynamics_of_change_and_captain_invincible-68756)
+[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/big_news_on_the_grit_dynamics_of_change_and_captain_invincible-68756](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/big_news_on_the_grit_dynamics_of_change_and_captain_invincible-68756)
|
|||||||
77 | 21st February 2024 | 19:29:56 | remus | ascent | MaDMAn | notes | |
Before
Second ascent? Also added a direct finish.
> Thanks chaps! In answer to some of the questions; to best of my knowledge this was the second ascent of MaDMAn, although you never know, it has been nearly twenty years since the FA! From the position Dave is in that picture his original line bridges out into Trident, the neighbouring HVS, and finishes up this. This manoeuvre is still tricky! On the day the very green sidewalls of Trident were pretty gopping too. I found that if instead you did another move up to stand higher (eeek!) on the "ledge" then you could reach round enough to get a bomber rock 12 in the base of the wedged block trident feature after which the HVS is named (although not enough to actually reach any holds / an HVS position!), then just carry straight on up the upper arête from the same spot. Its a balancey position and feels pretty spooky / falloffable to place but it is definitely en route and seemed like a good idea as the route was wet when we arrived and the upper section relies on quite a few pebble footholds and recently de-mossed handholds. Top section probably E6 6b on its own and you could actually do it as a separate route starting up Trident I suppose? Its really excellent climbing. As TB says once you get that gear in the top feels very enjoyable so I doubt it changes the original grade. I see it as an extension to MaDMAn rather than a new route, obviously if Dave Pegg had bothered to take a rope and harness he would have cruised up it I'm sure. [1]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU)
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692)
After
Also added a direct finish.
> Thanks chaps! In answer to some of the questions; to best of my knowledge this was the second ascent of MaDMAn, although you never know, it has been nearly twenty years since the FA! From the position Dave is in that picture his original line bridges out into Trident, the neighbouring HVS, and finishes up this. This manoeuvre is still tricky! On the day the very green sidewalls of Trident were pretty gopping too. I found that if instead you did another move up to stand higher (eeek!) on the "ledge" then you could reach round enough to get a bomber rock 12 in the base of the wedged block trident feature after which the HVS is named (although not enough to actually reach any holds / an HVS position!), then just carry straight on up the upper arête from the same spot. Its a balancey position and feels pretty spooky / falloffable to place but it is definitely en route and seemed like a good idea as the route was wet when we arrived and the upper section relies on quite a few pebble footholds and recently de-mossed handholds. Top section probably E6 6b on its own and you could actually do it as a separate route starting up Trident I suppose? Its really excellent climbing. As TB says once you get that gear in the top feels very enjoyable so I doubt it changes the original grade. I see it as an extension to MaDMAn rather than a new route, obviously if Dave Pegg had bothered to take a rope and harness he would have cruised up it I'm sure. [2]
### References
[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU)
[2] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,7 +1,9 @@
-Second ascent? Also added a direct finish.
+Also added a direct finish.
-> Thanks chaps! In answer to some of the questions; to best of my knowledge this was the second ascent of MaDMAn, although you never know, it has been nearly twenty years since the FA! From the position Dave is in that picture his original line bridges out into Trident, the neighbouring HVS, and finishes up this. This manoeuvre is still tricky! On the day the very green sidewalls of Trident were pretty gopping too. I found that if instead you did another move up to stand higher (eeek!) on the "ledge" then you could reach round enough to get a bomber rock 12 in the base of the wedged block trident feature after which the HVS is named (although not enough to actually reach any holds / an HVS position!), then just carry straight on up the upper arête from the same spot. Its a balancey position and feels pretty spooky / falloffable to place but it is definitely en route and seemed like a good idea as the route was wet when we arrived and the upper section relies on quite a few pebble footholds and recently de-mossed handholds. Top section probably E6 6b on its own and you could actually do it as a separate route starting up Trident I suppose? Its really excellent climbing. As TB says once you get that gear in the top feels very enjoyable so I doubt it changes the original grade. I see it as an extension to MaDMAn rather than a new route, obviously if Dave Pegg had bothered to take a rope and harness he would have cruised up it I'm sure. [1]
+> Thanks chaps! In answer to some of the questions; to best of my knowledge this was the second ascent of MaDMAn, although you never know, it has been nearly twenty years since the FA! From the position Dave is in that picture his original line bridges out into Trident, the neighbouring HVS, and finishes up this. This manoeuvre is still tricky! On the day the very green sidewalls of Trident were pretty gopping too. I found that if instead you did another move up to stand higher (eeek!) on the "ledge" then you could reach round enough to get a bomber rock 12 in the base of the wedged block trident feature after which the HVS is named (although not enough to actually reach any holds / an HVS position!), then just carry straight on up the upper arête from the same spot. Its a balancey position and feels pretty spooky / falloffable to place but it is definitely en route and seemed like a good idea as the route was wet when we arrived and the upper section relies on quite a few pebble footholds and recently de-mossed handholds. Top section probably E6 6b on its own and you could actually do it as a separate route starting up Trident I suppose? Its really excellent climbing. As TB says once you get that gear in the top feels very enjoyable so I doubt it changes the original grade. I see it as an extension to MaDMAn rather than a new route, obviously if Dave Pegg had bothered to take a rope and harness he would have cruised up it I'm sure. [2]
-[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU)
+### References
-[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692)
+[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU)
+
+[2] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692)
|
|||||||
78 | 21st February 2024 | 19:29:56 | remus | ascent | MaDMAn | notes_pretty | |
Before
<p>Second ascent? Also added a direct finish.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Thanks chaps! In answer to some of the questions; to best of my knowledge this was the second ascent of MaDMAn, although you never know, it has been nearly twenty years since the FA! From the position Dave is in that picture his original line bridges out into Trident, the neighbouring HVS, and finishes up this. This manoeuvre is still tricky! On the day the very green sidewalls of Trident were pretty gopping too. I found that if instead you did another move up to stand higher (eeek!) on the "ledge" then you could reach round enough to get a bomber rock 12 in the base of the wedged block trident feature after which the HVS is named (although not enough to actually reach any holds / an HVS position!), then just carry straight on up the upper arête from the same spot. Its a balancey position and feels pretty spooky / falloffable to place but it is definitely en route and seemed like a good idea as the route was wet when we arrived and the upper section relies on quite a few pebble footholds and recently de-mossed handholds. Top section probably E6 6b on its own and you could actually do it as a separate route starting up Trident I suppose? Its really excellent climbing. As TB says once you get that gear in the top feels very enjoyable so I doubt it changes the original grade. I see it as an extension to MaDMAn rather than a new route, obviously if Dave Pegg had bothered to take a rope and harness he would have cruised up it I'm sure. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU</a></p>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692</a></p>
After
<p>Also added a direct finish.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Thanks chaps! In answer to some of the questions; to best of my knowledge this was the second ascent of MaDMAn, although you never know, it has been nearly twenty years since the FA! From the position Dave is in that picture his original line bridges out into Trident, the neighbouring HVS, and finishes up this. This manoeuvre is still tricky! On the day the very green sidewalls of Trident were pretty gopping too. I found that if instead you did another move up to stand higher (eeek!) on the "ledge" then you could reach round enough to get a bomber rock 12 in the base of the wedged block trident feature after which the HVS is named (although not enough to actually reach any holds / an HVS position!), then just carry straight on up the upper arête from the same spot. Its a balancey position and feels pretty spooky / falloffable to place but it is definitely en route and seemed like a good idea as the route was wet when we arrived and the upper section relies on quite a few pebble footholds and recently de-mossed handholds. Top section probably E6 6b on its own and you could actually do it as a separate route starting up Trident I suppose? Its really excellent climbing. As TB says once you get that gear in the top feels very enjoyable so I doubt it changes the original grade. I see it as an extension to MaDMAn rather than a new route, obviously if Dave Pegg had bothered to take a rope and harness he would have cruised up it I'm sure. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692</a></p>
|
|||||||
79 | 3rd January 2021 | 17:40:40 | remus | - | - | - | |
Before
None
After
None
|