Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
61 | 1st August 2024 | 21:42:07 | remus | ascent | Echo Wall | ascent_style_id | |
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||
62 | 1st August 2024 | 21:42:07 | remus | ascent | Echo Wall | climb_id | |
Before
None
After
554
|
|||||||
63 | 1st August 2024 | 21:42:07 | remus | ascent | Echo Wall | climber_id | |
Before
None
After
153
|
|||||||
64 | 1st August 2024 | 21:42:07 | remus | ascent | Echo Wall | ascent_dt_end | |
Before
None
After
2024-08-01
|
|||||||
65 | 25th July 2024 | 13:37:35 | remus | ascent | Olwen | notes | |
Before
James gave the route a good flash go after watching [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini) working the line, falling off the last hard move (though still with some tricky climbing to go).
> I almost backed off from the middle of the lower (potentially dangerous) runout, but eventually made it through to the underthings and good gear that mark the beginning of the upper wall and crux of the route. I had a really good fight, using mostly Caroline’s beta, but having to freestyle a couple of moves that just didn’t quite fit me. I stuck the final hard move with a giant scream, but I was so boxed I fell trying to sort my feet out. It might technically be the last really hard move on the route, but the route is definitely not over at this point. There are still two moves to go before you get to the really good holds, and I think I would’ve surely fallen here, even if I had gotten my feet into position. Actually, on my next attempt, I was about as close as I could get to falling on these very moves. [1]
### References
[1] [https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-pearson-repeats-prisoners-of-the-sun-e10-and-olwen-e9/](https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-pearson-repeats-prisoners-of-the-sun-e10-and-olwen-e9/)
After
James gave the route a good flash go after watching [Caroline Ciavaldini](/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini) working the line, falling off the last hard move (though still with some tricky climbing to go).
> I almost backed off from the middle of the lower (potentially dangerous) runout, but eventually made it through to the underthings and good gear that mark the beginning of the upper wall and crux of the route. I had a really good fight, using mostly Caroline’s beta, but having to freestyle a couple of moves that just didn’t quite fit me. I stuck the final hard move with a giant scream, but I was so boxed I fell trying to sort my feet out. It might technically be the last really hard move on the route, but the route is definitely not over at this point. There are still two moves to go before you get to the really good holds, and I think I would’ve surely fallen here, even if I had gotten my feet into position. Actually, on my next attempt, I was about as close as I could get to falling on these very moves. [1]
### References
[1] [https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-pearson-repeats-prisoners-of-the-sun-e10-and-olwen-e9/](https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-pearson-repeats-prisoners-of-the-sun-e10-and-olwen-e9/)
[2] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oz6VtgEjqQg](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oz6VtgEjqQg)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
66 | 25th July 2024 | 13:37:35 | remus | ascent | Olwen | notes_pretty | |
Before
<p>James gave the route a good flash go after watching <a href="/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini">Caroline Ciavaldini</a> working the line, falling off the last hard move (though still with some tricky climbing to go).</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I almost backed off from the middle of the lower (potentially dangerous) runout, but eventually made it through to the underthings and good gear that mark the beginning of the upper wall and crux of the route. I had a really good fight, using mostly Caroline’s beta, but having to freestyle a couple of moves that just didn’t quite fit me. I stuck the final hard move with a giant scream, but I was so boxed I fell trying to sort my feet out. It might technically be the last really hard move on the route, but the route is definitely not over at this point. There are still two moves to go before you get to the really good holds, and I think I would’ve surely fallen here, even if I had gotten my feet into position. Actually, on my next attempt, I was about as close as I could get to falling on these very moves. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-pearson-repeats-prisoners-of-the-sun-e10-and-olwen-e9/">https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-pearson-repeats-prisoners-of-the-sun-e10-and-olwen-e9/</a></p>
After
<p>James gave the route a good flash go after watching <a href="/climber/553/caroline-ciavaldini">Caroline Ciavaldini</a> working the line, falling off the last hard move (though still with some tricky climbing to go).</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I almost backed off from the middle of the lower (potentially dangerous) runout, but eventually made it through to the underthings and good gear that mark the beginning of the upper wall and crux of the route. I had a really good fight, using mostly Caroline’s beta, but having to freestyle a couple of moves that just didn’t quite fit me. I stuck the final hard move with a giant scream, but I was so boxed I fell trying to sort my feet out. It might technically be the last really hard move on the route, but the route is definitely not over at this point. There are still two moves to go before you get to the really good holds, and I think I would’ve surely fallen here, even if I had gotten my feet into position. Actually, on my next attempt, I was about as close as I could get to falling on these very moves. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-pearson-repeats-prisoners-of-the-sun-e10-and-olwen-e9/">https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-pearson-repeats-prisoners-of-the-sun-e10-and-olwen-e9/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oz6VtgEjqQg">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oz6VtgEjqQg</a></p>
|
|||||||
67 | 10th July 2024 | 20:13:02 | remus | ascent | Do You Know Where Your Children Are? | climber_id | |
Before
None
After
153
|
|||||||
68 | 10th July 2024 | 20:13:02 | remus | ascent | Do You Know Where Your Children Are? | ascent_dt_end | |
Before
None
After
2011-06-01
|
|||||||
69 | 10th July 2024 | 20:13:02 | remus | ascent | Do You Know Where Your Children Are? | ascent_dt_start | |
Before
None
After
2011-05-01
|
|||||||
70 | 10th July 2024 | 20:13:02 | remus | ascent | Do You Know Where Your Children Are? | ascent_type_id | |
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||
71 | 10th July 2024 | 20:13:02 | remus | ascent | Do You Know Where Your Children Are? | ascent_style_id | |
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||
72 | 10th July 2024 | 20:13:02 | remus | ascent | Do You Know Where Your Children Are? | fa | |
Before
false
After
true
|
|||||||
73 | 10th July 2024 | 20:13:02 | remus | ascent | Do You Know Where Your Children Are? | climb_id | |
Before
None
After
3549
|
|||||||
74 | 28th June 2024 | 22:22:28 | remus | ascent | Gerty Berwick | notes | |
Before
[https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/02/gerty_berwick_repeated_by_james_pearson-46075](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/02/gerty_berwick_repeated_by_james_pearson-46075)
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6ifxbMxU0k](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6ifxbMxU0k)
After
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/02/gerty_berwick_repeated_by_james_pearson-46075](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/02/gerty_berwick_repeated_by_james_pearson-46075)
[2] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6ifxbMxU0k](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6ifxbMxU0k)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
75 | 28th June 2024 | 22:22:28 | remus | ascent | Gerty Berwick | notes_pretty | |
Before
<p><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/02/gerty_berwick_repeated_by_james_pearson-46075">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/02/gerty_berwick_repeated_by_james_pearson-46075</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6ifxbMxU0k">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6ifxbMxU0k</a></p>
After
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/02/gerty_berwick_repeated_by_james_pearson-46075">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/02/gerty_berwick_repeated_by_james_pearson-46075</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6ifxbMxU0k">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6ifxbMxU0k</a></p>
|
|||||||
76 | 3rd May 2024 | 06:12:15 | remus | ascent | 29 Dots | notes | |
Before
> The lack of toprope warm-up definitely gave me a little more energy, and I stuck the 7m high crux hold, though with far less margin than I would have liked. At that point, it's possible to have a quick shake on two very small but positive crimps whilst you prepare yourself for the next section, but I knew if I did that I would definitely get numbed out, so decided I was going to race the numbness to the top of the route and climb straight into the second crux. Immediately when I grabbed the first left-hand hold, I knew something was wrong, I couldn't properly feel the specific spikes under my fingers, and had to force way more than necessary to move my feet into position.
> The next move is in my opinion,the most dangerous move on the route, and whilst significantly easier than the lower moves, it is still around a 7A+ boulder, with your feet high up and to the side opposing your hands on two side-pulls. Whilst falling off the lower crux is not to be advised, it is a straight fall down to the mats from an up-right position. The second crux, whilst only one and a half metres higher, is from a totally different body position, and would likely see you falling sideways away from the pads, possibly onto your back! I gave a lot of my remaining energy into controlling this move, and came far too close to the edge for my liking.
> From this point the climbing becomes slightly easier with every passing move, and I’d never really considered the possibility of falling from up there. It comes as no surprise that with little feeling in your fingers you waste a lot of energy in over-controlling every hold, and I found myself in the hellish position of being both pumped, and numb, and getting worse by the second. Moves that should have been easy static pulls became focused lunges, and for the first time in many years I thought about what falling off from here might feel like! [2]
### References
[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wKNt8B1p1s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wKNt8B1p1s)
[2] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-repeats-bernd-zangerl-huge-highball-29dots-valle-dell-orco-italy.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-repeats-bernd-zangerl-huge-highball-29dots-valle-dell-orco-italy.html)
After
> The lack of toprope warm-up definitely gave me a little more energy, and I stuck the 7m high crux hold, though with far less margin than I would have liked. At that point, it's possible to have a quick shake on two very small but positive crimps whilst you prepare yourself for the next section, but I knew if I did that I would definitely get numbed out, so decided I was going to race the numbness to the top of the route and climb straight into the second crux. Immediately when I grabbed the first left-hand hold, I knew something was wrong, I couldn't properly feel the specific spikes under my fingers, and had to force way more than necessary to move my feet into position.
> The next move is in my opinion,the most dangerous move on the route, and whilst significantly easier than the lower moves, it is still around a 7A+ boulder, with your feet high up and to the side opposing your hands on two side-pulls. Whilst falling off the lower crux is not to be advised, it is a straight fall down to the mats from an up-right position. The second crux, whilst only one and a half metres higher, is from a totally different body position, and would likely see you falling sideways away from the pads, possibly onto your back! I gave a lot of my remaining energy into controlling this move, and came far too close to the edge for my liking.
> From this point the climbing becomes slightly easier with every passing move, and I’d never really considered the possibility of falling from up there. It comes as no surprise that with little feeling in your fingers you waste a lot of energy in over-controlling every hold, and I found myself in the hellish position of being both pumped, and numb, and getting worse by the second. Moves that should have been easy static pulls became focused lunges, and for the first time in many years I thought about what falling off from here might feel like! [2]
### References
[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wKNt8B1p1s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wKNt8B1p1s)
[2] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-repeats-bernd-zangerl-huge-highball-29dots-valle-dell-orco-italy.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-repeats-bernd-zangerl-huge-highball-29dots-valle-dell-orco-italy.html)
[3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZPxKLP2eDo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZPxKLP2eDo)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
77 | 3rd May 2024 | 06:12:15 | remus | ascent | 29 Dots | notes_pretty | |
Before
<blockquote>
<p>The lack of toprope warm-up definitely gave me a little more energy, and I stuck the 7m high crux hold, though with far less margin than I would have liked. At that point, it's possible to have a quick shake on two very small but positive crimps whilst you prepare yourself for the next section, but I knew if I did that I would definitely get numbed out, so decided I was going to race the numbness to the top of the route and climb straight into the second crux. Immediately when I grabbed the first left-hand hold, I knew something was wrong, I couldn't properly feel the specific spikes under my fingers, and had to force way more than necessary to move my feet into position.</p>
<p>The next move is in my opinion,the most dangerous move on the route, and whilst significantly easier than the lower moves, it is still around a 7A+ boulder, with your feet high up and to the side opposing your hands on two side-pulls. Whilst falling off the lower crux is not to be advised, it is a straight fall down to the mats from an up-right position. The second crux, whilst only one and a half metres higher, is from a totally different body position, and would likely see you falling sideways away from the pads, possibly onto your back! I gave a lot of my remaining energy into controlling this move, and came far too close to the edge for my liking.</p>
<p>From this point the climbing becomes slightly easier with every passing move, and I’d never really considered the possibility of falling from up there. It comes as no surprise that with little feeling in your fingers you waste a lot of energy in over-controlling every hold, and I found myself in the hellish position of being both pumped, and numb, and getting worse by the second. Moves that should have been easy static pulls became focused lunges, and for the first time in many years I thought about what falling off from here might feel like! [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wKNt8B1p1s">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wKNt8B1p1s</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-repeats-bernd-zangerl-huge-highball-29dots-valle-dell-orco-italy.html">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-repeats-bernd-zangerl-huge-highball-29dots-valle-dell-orco-italy.html</a></p>
After
<blockquote>
<p>The lack of toprope warm-up definitely gave me a little more energy, and I stuck the 7m high crux hold, though with far less margin than I would have liked. At that point, it's possible to have a quick shake on two very small but positive crimps whilst you prepare yourself for the next section, but I knew if I did that I would definitely get numbed out, so decided I was going to race the numbness to the top of the route and climb straight into the second crux. Immediately when I grabbed the first left-hand hold, I knew something was wrong, I couldn't properly feel the specific spikes under my fingers, and had to force way more than necessary to move my feet into position.</p>
<p>The next move is in my opinion,the most dangerous move on the route, and whilst significantly easier than the lower moves, it is still around a 7A+ boulder, with your feet high up and to the side opposing your hands on two side-pulls. Whilst falling off the lower crux is not to be advised, it is a straight fall down to the mats from an up-right position. The second crux, whilst only one and a half metres higher, is from a totally different body position, and would likely see you falling sideways away from the pads, possibly onto your back! I gave a lot of my remaining energy into controlling this move, and came far too close to the edge for my liking.</p>
<p>From this point the climbing becomes slightly easier with every passing move, and I’d never really considered the possibility of falling from up there. It comes as no surprise that with little feeling in your fingers you waste a lot of energy in over-controlling every hold, and I found myself in the hellish position of being both pumped, and numb, and getting worse by the second. Moves that should have been easy static pulls became focused lunges, and for the first time in many years I thought about what falling off from here might feel like! [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wKNt8B1p1s">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wKNt8B1p1s</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-repeats-bernd-zangerl-huge-highball-29dots-valle-dell-orco-italy.html">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-repeats-bernd-zangerl-huge-highball-29dots-valle-dell-orco-italy.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZPxKLP2eDo">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZPxKLP2eDo</a></p>
|
|||||||
78 | 23rd April 2024 | 22:11:29 | remus | ascent | Rhapsody | notes_pretty | |
Before
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/tU-_hozN1v/">https://www.instagram.com/p/tU-_hozN1v/</a></p>
After
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/tU-_hozN1v/">https://www.instagram.com/p/tU-_hozN1v/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/rhapsody_e11_7a_repeat_for_james_pearson-69194">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/rhapsody_e11_7a_repeat_for_james_pearson-69194</a></p>
|
|||||||
79 | 23rd April 2024 | 22:11:29 | remus | ascent | Rhapsody | notes | |
Before
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/tU-_hozN1v/](https://www.instagram.com/p/tU-_hozN1v/)
After
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/tU-_hozN1v/](https://www.instagram.com/p/tU-_hozN1v/)
[2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/rhapsody_e11_7a_repeat_for_james_pearson-69194](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/rhapsody_e11_7a_repeat_for_james_pearson-69194)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
80 | 23rd April 2024 | 15:40:57 | remus | ascent | 29 Dots | notes | |
Before
### References
[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wKNt8B1p1s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wKNt8B1p1s)
After
> The lack of toprope warm-up definitely gave me a little more energy, and I stuck the 7m high crux hold, though with far less margin than I would have liked. At that point, it's possible to have a quick shake on two very small but positive crimps whilst you prepare yourself for the next section, but I knew if I did that I would definitely get numbed out, so decided I was going to race the numbness to the top of the route and climb straight into the second crux. Immediately when I grabbed the first left-hand hold, I knew something was wrong, I couldn't properly feel the specific spikes under my fingers, and had to force way more than necessary to move my feet into position.
> The next move is in my opinion,the most dangerous move on the route, and whilst significantly easier than the lower moves, it is still around a 7A+ boulder, with your feet high up and to the side opposing your hands on two side-pulls. Whilst falling off the lower crux is not to be advised, it is a straight fall down to the mats from an up-right position. The second crux, whilst only one and a half metres higher, is from a totally different body position, and would likely see you falling sideways away from the pads, possibly onto your back! I gave a lot of my remaining energy into controlling this move, and came far too close to the edge for my liking.
> From this point the climbing becomes slightly easier with every passing move, and I’d never really considered the possibility of falling from up there. It comes as no surprise that with little feeling in your fingers you waste a lot of energy in over-controlling every hold, and I found myself in the hellish position of being both pumped, and numb, and getting worse by the second. Moves that should have been easy static pulls became focused lunges, and for the first time in many years I thought about what falling off from here might feel like! [2]
### References
[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wKNt8B1p1s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wKNt8B1p1s)
[2] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-repeats-bernd-zangerl-huge-highball-29dots-valle-dell-orco-italy.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-repeats-bernd-zangerl-huge-highball-29dots-valle-dell-orco-italy.html)
Diff
--- before
|