| Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 101 | 2nd May 2024 | 06:15:02 | remus | ascent | White Wall | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2656362574429901">https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2656362574429901</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/430864846979696">https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/430864846979696</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Cwr78H2NECe/=">https://www.instagram.com/p/Cwr78H2NECe/=</a></p>
After
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2656362574429901">https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2656362574429901</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/430864846979696">https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/430864846979696</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Cwr78H2NECe/=">https://www.instagram.com/p/Cwr78H2NECe/=</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 102 | 18th April 2024 | 21:32:06 | remus | ascent | London Wall | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
None
After
<p>An early flash ascent.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 107, page 47.</p>
|
|||||||
| 103 | 18th April 2024 | 21:32:06 | remus | ascent | London Wall | notes | |
|
Before
None
After
An early flash ascent.
### References
[1] *On The Edge* Issue 107, page 47.
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 104 | 18th April 2024 | 21:32:06 | remus | ascent | London Wall | ascent_style_id | |
|
Before
None
After
2
|
|||||||
| 105 | 18th April 2024 | 21:32:06 | remus | ascent | London Wall | climber_id | |
|
Before
None
After
131
|
|||||||
| 106 | 18th April 2024 | 21:32:06 | remus | ascent | London Wall | climb_id | |
|
Before
None
After
871
|
|||||||
| 107 | 18th April 2024 | 21:32:06 | remus | ascent | London Wall | ascent_type_id | |
|
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||
| 108 | 8th April 2024 | 08:55:34 | remus | ascent | The Bastard | climber_id | |
|
Before
None
After
131
|
|||||||
| 109 | 8th April 2024 | 08:55:34 | remus | ascent | The Bastard | climb_id | |
|
Before
None
After
3324
|
|||||||
| 110 | 8th April 2024 | 08:55:34 | remus | ascent | The Bastard | fa | |
|
Before
false
After
true
|
|||||||
| 111 | 8th April 2024 | 08:55:34 | remus | ascent | The Bastard | ascent_style_id | |
|
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||
| 112 | 8th April 2024 | 08:55:34 | remus | ascent | The Bastard | ascent_type_id | |
|
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||
| 113 | 8th April 2024 | 08:55:34 | remus | ascent | The Bastard | ascent_dt_start | |
|
Before
None
After
1989-01-01
|
|||||||
| 114 | 8th April 2024 | 08:55:34 | remus | ascent | The Bastard | ascent_dt_end | |
|
Before
None
After
1990-01-01
|
|||||||
| 115 | 27th February 2024 | 07:05:41 | remus | ascent | Zoolook | notes | |
|
Before
[https://open.spotify.com/episode/3kuxcMcqhNtNWWrfXXkGDL](https://open.spotify.com/episode/3kuxcMcqhNtNWWrfXXkGDL)
After
### References
[1] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/3kuxcMcqhNtNWWrfXXkGDL](https://open.spotify.com/episode/3kuxcMcqhNtNWWrfXXkGDL)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 116 | 27th February 2024 | 07:05:41 | remus | ascent | Zoolook | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p><a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/3kuxcMcqhNtNWWrfXXkGDL">https://open.spotify.com/episode/3kuxcMcqhNtNWWrfXXkGDL</a></p>
After
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/3kuxcMcqhNtNWWrfXXkGDL">https://open.spotify.com/episode/3kuxcMcqhNtNWWrfXXkGDL</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 117 | 25th February 2024 | 22:31:39 | remus | ascent | Dominator | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807">https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807</a></p>
After
<blockquote>
<p>I went on a strict diet for about a week. Salads only. As a pure power problem, I didn’t need any stamina, so didn’t need any carbohydrates in my body at all. I could do it if I felt dizzy, so I cut out almost all food. This wasn’t hard. I was keen to lose the weight to give me the edge on that first move and I was so excited about doing it that I could hardly eat anyway. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/library/320/revelations">Revelations (2010)</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807">https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 118 | 25th February 2024 | 22:31:39 | remus | ascent | Dominator | notes | |
|
Before
[https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807](https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807)
After
> I went on a strict diet for about a week. Salads only. As a pure power problem, I didn’t need any stamina, so didn’t need any carbohydrates in my body at all. I could do it if I felt dizzy, so I cut out almost all food. This wasn’t hard. I was keen to lose the weight to give me the edge on that first move and I was so excited about doing it that I could hardly eat anyway. [1]
### References
[1] [Revelations (2010)](/library/320/revelations)
[2] [https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807](https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 119 | 25th February 2024 | 21:55:40 | remus | ascent | The Force | notes | |
|
Before
> The problem, like [Thriller](/climb/986/thriller), was high and hard all the way. We had a short ladder, so I would lean this against the wall and step off onto the problem to try the upper section. The landing was very rocky, and since this was in the days before bouldering pads, I spent some time burying wooden pallets to flatten out the ground. I soon started to get the moves sorted. When we tried it we would bring a cassette player along. At the time, we were listening to Michael Jackson’s album Thriller. There was one song in particular I would listen to while I looked at the problem, visualising the moves before an attempt. It started off:
> ‘The Force. It’s got a lot of power.’
> It was a great line. Later, when I did the problem, I called it The Force. [1]
### References
[1] [Revelations (2010)](/library/320/revelations)
After
> The problem, like [Thriller](/climb/986/thriller), was high and hard all the way. We had a short ladder, so I would lean this against the wall and step off onto the problem to try the upper section. The landing was very rocky, and since this was in the days before bouldering pads, I spent some time burying wooden pallets to flatten out the ground. I soon started to get the moves sorted. When we tried it we would bring a cassette player along. At the time, we were listening to Michael Jackson’s album Thriller. There was one song in particular I would listen to while I looked at the problem, visualising the moves before an attempt. It started off:
> ‘The Force. It’s got a lot of power.’
> It was a great line. Later, when I did the problem, I called it The Force.
> ...
> Later that year, my old friend [John Bachar](/climber/722/john-bachar) went to The Force, got a crow bar and levered off the formerly loose flake that Mark Chapman had reinforced. He claimed the glue was unethical, and for that, he destroyed the problem. Left behind, in place of a tiny hold that gave a desperate move, there was a large flat ledge which allowed an easy reach high into the problem. The Force was changed utterly, nowhere near the problem it once was. Originally Bachar denied it, but Mark Chapman had seen him at the boulders, so he admitted it later. I was angry, frustrated and disappointed. The glue was invisible and made no difference, serving only to protect the problem. Bachar had been going through a bad time back then. The nature of climbing, always so precious to him, was changing. In Yosemite and other crags, the use of bolts was becoming widespread, threatening the traditional values of boldness and commitment that he had always championed and excelled at. He became entrenched, began to lose friendships and, perhaps, perspective. [1]
### References
[1] [Revelations (2010)](/library/320/revelations)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 120 | 25th February 2024 | 21:55:40 | remus | ascent | The Force | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<blockquote>
<p>The problem, like <a href="/climb/986/thriller">Thriller</a>, was high and hard all the way. We had a short ladder, so I would lean this against the wall and step off onto the problem to try the upper section. The landing was very rocky, and since this was in the days before bouldering pads, I spent some time burying wooden pallets to flatten out the ground. I soon started to get the moves sorted. When we tried it we would bring a cassette player along. At the time, we were listening to Michael Jackson’s album Thriller. There was one song in particular I would listen to while I looked at the problem, visualising the moves before an attempt. It started off:</p>
<p>‘The Force. It’s got a lot of power.’</p>
<p>It was a great line. Later, when I did the problem, I called it The Force. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/library/320/revelations">Revelations (2010)</a></p>
After
<blockquote>
<p>The problem, like <a href="/climb/986/thriller">Thriller</a>, was high and hard all the way. We had a short ladder, so I would lean this against the wall and step off onto the problem to try the upper section. The landing was very rocky, and since this was in the days before bouldering pads, I spent some time burying wooden pallets to flatten out the ground. I soon started to get the moves sorted. When we tried it we would bring a cassette player along. At the time, we were listening to Michael Jackson’s album Thriller. There was one song in particular I would listen to while I looked at the problem, visualising the moves before an attempt. It started off:</p>
<p>‘The Force. It’s got a lot of power.’</p>
<p>It was a great line. Later, when I did the problem, I called it The Force.</p>
<p>...</p>
<p>Later that year, my old friend <a href="/climber/722/john-bachar">John Bachar</a> went to The Force, got a crow bar and levered off the formerly loose flake that Mark Chapman had reinforced. He claimed the glue was unethical, and for that, he destroyed the problem. Left behind, in place of a tiny hold that gave a desperate move, there was a large flat ledge which allowed an easy reach high into the problem. The Force was changed utterly, nowhere near the problem it once was. Originally Bachar denied it, but Mark Chapman had seen him at the boulders, so he admitted it later. I was angry, frustrated and disappointed. The glue was invisible and made no difference, serving only to protect the problem. Bachar had been going through a bad time back then. The nature of climbing, always so precious to him, was changing. In Yosemite and other crags, the use of bolts was becoming widespread, threatening the traditional values of boldness and commitment that he had always championed and excelled at. He became entrenched, began to lose friendships and, perhaps, perspective. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/library/320/revelations">Revelations (2010)</a></p>
|
|||||||