| Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 11th April 2025 | 11:42:13 | remus | ascent | Warren Harding | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>A huge multi-season ascent which involved numerous partners, lots of fixed gear and an incredible final 15 hour push through the night to complete the route.</p>
<p>Initially the team compromised Harding, Mark Powell and Bill Feuerer but when work resumed on the route in the autumn season Powell and Feuerer dropped out while Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, and Rich Calderwood joined the main team.</p>
After
<p>A huge multi-season ascent which involved numerous partners, lots of fixed gear and an incredible final 15 hour push through the night to complete the route.</p>
<p>Initially the team compromised Harding, Mark Powell and Bill Feuerer but when work resumed on the route in the autumn season Powell and Feuerer dropped out while Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, and Rich Calderwood joined the main team.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>[<a href="/climber/2387/chris-jones">Chris Jones</a>, interviewing] <em>The first ascent of the South Buttress of El Cap - the Nose - has been described, but is it true that you started this because you had been beaten by Robbins and party
on the North Face of Half Dome?</em></p>
<p>Yes, it is true. The previous Fall, I was a member of the party that made the first serious attempt on the North
West Face of Half Dome. I was not particularly impressed with the leader of this group (not Robbins), so I decided
to form a party of my own. This turned out to be a truly splendid team: Powell, Harding, Dolt. However, when we reached the Valley in mid-June, we were taken aback and rather disgruntled to find that an excellent team of climbers, now led by Royal Robbins, had the matter of Half Dome
North West Face well in hand.</p>
<p>In a fit of egotistical pique, we grumbled around the
Valley for a couple of days, trying to figure out what to do. The solution was quite simple: any climb less than
Half Dome was beneath us; only a greater climb would do 1 Our objective was rather obvious!</p>
<p>It soon became obvious, too, that we were getting in over our heads with the difficulties presented by El Cap. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://climbing-history.org/library/9569/mountain-9">Mountain 9</a> (1970), page 16</p>
|
|||||||
| 2 | 11th April 2025 | 11:42:13 | remus | ascent | Warren Harding | notes | |
|
Before
A huge multi-season ascent which involved numerous partners, lots of fixed gear and an incredible final 15 hour push through the night to complete the route.
Initially the team compromised Harding, Mark Powell and Bill Feuerer but when work resumed on the route in the autumn season Powell and Feuerer dropped out while Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, and Rich Calderwood joined the main team.
After
A huge multi-season ascent which involved numerous partners, lots of fixed gear and an incredible final 15 hour push through the night to complete the route.
Initially the team compromised Harding, Mark Powell and Bill Feuerer but when work resumed on the route in the autumn season Powell and Feuerer dropped out while Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, and Rich Calderwood joined the main team.
> [[Chris Jones](/climber/2387/chris-jones), interviewing] *The first ascent of the South Buttress of El Cap - the Nose - has been described, but is it true that you started this because you had been beaten by Robbins and party
on the North Face of Half Dome?*
> Yes, it is true. The previous Fall, I was a member of the party that made the first serious attempt on the North
West Face of Half Dome. I was not particularly impressed with the leader of this group (not Robbins), so I decided
to form a party of my own. This turned out to be a truly splendid team: Powell, Harding, Dolt. However, when we reached the Valley in mid-June, we were taken aback and rather disgruntled to find that an excellent team of climbers, now led by Royal Robbins, had the matter of Half Dome
North West Face well in hand.
> In a fit of egotistical pique, we grumbled around the
Valley for a couple of days, trying to figure out what to do. The solution was quite simple: any climb less than
Half Dome was beneath us; only a greater climb would do 1 Our objective was rather obvious!
> It soon became obvious, too, that we were getting in over our heads with the difficulties presented by El Cap. [1]
### References
[1] [Mountain 9](https://climbing-history.org/library/9569/mountain-9) (1970), page 16
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 3 | 16th December 2024 | 18:41:59 | remus | ascent | Hannes Puman | notes | |
|
Before
Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch *The Schnaz* 5.13 / V9 which avoids what was the crux *Changing Corners* 14a pitch.
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/](https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/)
After
Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch *The Schnaz* 5.13 / V9 which avoids what was the crux *Changing Corners* 14a pitch.
> [Ivo Ninov](/climber/2577/ivo-ninov) gave me a history lesson of the climbing in Yosemite and told gave me some insights of the Schnaz. Actually the name is misinterpretation, it comes from Dave Shultz who together with Brooke Sandahl prepared the Nose for free climbing in the early 90s. [Lynn](/climber/555/lynn-hill) tried both variations but went for changing corners because the other has quite reachy moves. Around 98 when Scott Burke was training to free the nose he climbed the pitch but he also broke a crucial hold and couldn’t find a solution after. When Ivo came 2005 he put up another bolt and tried it with [Thomas Huber](/climber/1063/thomas-huber) and [Matt Wilder](/climber/1982/matt-wilder), they found a method that was possible and all three freed the pitch. Big respect to everyone who was involved and made The Nose the phenomenal climb it is today! [2]
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/](https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/)
[2] [https://www.instagram.com/p/DDpRcUGNsQ7/](https://www.instagram.com/p/DDpRcUGNsQ7/)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 4 | 16th December 2024 | 18:41:59 | remus | ascent | Hannes Puman | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch <em>The Schnaz</em> 5.13 / V9 which avoids what was the crux <em>Changing Corners</em> 14a pitch.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/">https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/</a></p>
After
<p>Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch <em>The Schnaz</em> 5.13 / V9 which avoids what was the crux <em>Changing Corners</em> 14a pitch.</p>
<blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/2577/ivo-ninov">Ivo Ninov</a> gave me a history lesson of the climbing in Yosemite and told gave me some insights of the Schnaz. Actually the name is misinterpretation, it comes from Dave Shultz who together with Brooke Sandahl prepared the Nose for free climbing in the early 90s. <a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill">Lynn</a> tried both variations but went for changing corners because the other has quite reachy moves. Around 98 when Scott Burke was training to free the nose he climbed the pitch but he also broke a crucial hold and couldn’t find a solution after. When Ivo came 2005 he put up another bolt and tried it with <a href="/climber/1063/thomas-huber">Thomas Huber</a> and <a href="/climber/1982/matt-wilder">Matt Wilder</a>, they found a method that was possible and all three freed the pitch. Big respect to everyone who was involved and made The Nose the phenomenal climb it is today! [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/">https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/DDpRcUGNsQ7/">https://www.instagram.com/p/DDpRcUGNsQ7/</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 5 | 15th December 2024 | 08:53:21 | remus | ascent | Billy Westbay | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.</p>
After
<p>The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.</p>
<p>Some gear was pre-placed on the first few pitches to help them climb faster in the dark. [1]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/#:~:text=The%20Nose%20in%20a%20Day%E2%80%94Some%20Alternative%20Facts">https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 6 | 15th December 2024 | 08:53:21 | remus | ascent | Billy Westbay | notes | |
|
Before
The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.
After
The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.
Some gear was pre-placed on the first few pitches to help them climb faster in the dark. [1]
### References
[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/](https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/#:~:text=The%20Nose%20in%20a%20Day%E2%80%94Some%20Alternative%20Facts)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 7 | 15th December 2024 | 08:53:12 | remus | ascent | Jim Bridwell | notes | |
|
Before
The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.
After
The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.
Some gear was pre-placed on the first few pitches to help them climb faster in the dark. [1]
### References
[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/](https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/#:~:text=The%20Nose%20in%20a%20Day%E2%80%94Some%20Alternative%20Facts)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 8 | 15th December 2024 | 08:53:12 | remus | ascent | Jim Bridwell | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.</p>
After
<p>The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.</p>
<p>Some gear was pre-placed on the first few pitches to help them climb faster in the dark. [1]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/#:~:text=The%20Nose%20in%20a%20Day%E2%80%94Some%20Alternative%20Facts">https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 9 | 15th December 2024 | 08:52:33 | remus | ascent | John Long | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.</p>
After
<p>The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.</p>
<p>Some gear was pre-placed on the first few pitches to help them climb faster in the dark. [1]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/#:~:text=The%20Nose%20in%20a%20Day%E2%80%94Some%20Alternative%20Facts">https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 10 | 15th December 2024 | 08:52:33 | remus | ascent | John Long | notes | |
|
Before
The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.
After
The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.
Some gear was pre-placed on the first few pitches to help them climb faster in the dark. [1]
### References
[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/](https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/#:~:text=The%20Nose%20in%20a%20Day%E2%80%94Some%20Alternative%20Facts)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 11 | 12th December 2024 | 18:24:54 | remus | ascent | Hannes Puman | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch <em>The Schnaz</em> which avoids what was the crux <em>Changing Corners</em> pitch.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/">https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/</a></p>
After
<p>Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch <em>The Schnaz</em> 5.13 / V9 which avoids what was the crux <em>Changing Corners</em> 14a pitch.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/">https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 12 | 12th December 2024 | 18:24:54 | remus | ascent | Hannes Puman | notes | |
|
Before
Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch *The Schnaz* which avoids what was the crux *Changing Corners* pitch.
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/](https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/)
After
Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch *The Schnaz* 5.13 / V9 which avoids what was the crux *Changing Corners* 14a pitch.
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/](https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 13 | 12th December 2024 | 18:24:18 | remus | ascent | Hannes Puman | notes | |
|
Before
Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch *The Schaz* which avoids what was the crux *Changing Corners* pitch.
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/](https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/)
After
Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch *The Schnaz* which avoids what was the crux *Changing Corners* pitch.
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/](https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 14 | 12th December 2024 | 18:24:18 | remus | ascent | Hannes Puman | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch <em>The Schaz</em> which avoids what was the crux <em>Changing Corners</em> pitch.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/">https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/</a></p>
After
<p>Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch <em>The Schnaz</em> which avoids what was the crux <em>Changing Corners</em> pitch.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/">https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 15 | 12th December 2024 | 18:22:35 | remus | ascent | Hannes Puman | climber_id | |
|
Before
None
After
1421
|
|||||||
| 16 | 12th December 2024 | 18:22:35 | remus | ascent | Hannes Puman | ascent_dt_end | |
|
Before
None
After
2025-01-01
|
|||||||
| 17 | 12th December 2024 | 18:22:35 | remus | ascent | Hannes Puman | ascent_dt_start | |
|
Before
None
After
2024-12-01
|
|||||||
| 18 | 12th December 2024 | 18:22:35 | remus | ascent | Hannes Puman | ascent_type_id | |
|
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||
| 19 | 12th December 2024 | 18:22:35 | remus | ascent | Hannes Puman | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
None
After
<p>Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch <em>The Schaz</em> which avoids what was the crux <em>Changing Corners</em> pitch.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/">https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 20 | 12th December 2024 | 18:22:35 | remus | ascent | Hannes Puman | notes | |
|
Before
None
After
Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch *The Schaz* which avoids what was the crux *Changing Corners* pitch.
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/](https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||