Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 14th August 2024 | 18:13:20 | remus | ascent | Jerry Moffatt | notes_pretty | |
Before
<p>Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.</p>
<p>Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c after <a href="/climber/176/nic-sellars">Nic Sellars</a> made a fast repeat of Jerry's route <a href="/climb/67/evolution">Evolution</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor">Raven Tor</a> and downgraded it to 8c:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The only grade I got wrong [in 1995] was Progress at Kilnsey. When I first worked the route I thought definitely not 8c+. I spoke to three others who had all been on the route who all thought it probably 8c+. In the end I gave it 8c+ thinking that perhaps I was climbing better than I thought. The bummer was that I was originally right about the 8c grade and wrong to think I was climbing so great. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764</a></p>
<p>[2] <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 53, page 48.</p>
After
<p>Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough. Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c after <a href="/climber/176/nic-sellars">Nic Sellars</a> made a fast repeat of Jerry's route <a href="/climb/67/evolution">Evolution</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor">Raven Tor</a> and downgraded it to 8c:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The only grade I got wrong [in 1995] was Progress at Kilnsey. When I first worked the route I thought definitely not 8c+. I spoke to three others who had all been on the route who all thought it probably 8c+. In the end I gave it 8c+ thinking that perhaps I was climbing better than I thought. The bummer was that I was originally right about the 8c grade and wrong to think I was climbing so great. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764</a></p>
<p>[2] <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 53, page 48.</p>
|
|||||||
2 | 14th August 2024 | 18:13:20 | remus | ascent | Jerry Moffatt | notes | |
Before
Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.
Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c after [Nic Sellars](/climber/176/nic-sellars) made a fast repeat of Jerry's route [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor) and downgraded it to 8c:
> The only grade I got wrong [in 1995] was Progress at Kilnsey. When I first worked the route I thought definitely not 8c+. I spoke to three others who had all been on the route who all thought it probably 8c+. In the end I gave it 8c+ thinking that perhaps I was climbing better than I thought. The bummer was that I was originally right about the 8c grade and wrong to think I was climbing so great. [2]
### References
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764)
[2] *On The Edge* Issue 53, page 48.
After
Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough. Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c after [Nic Sellars](/climber/176/nic-sellars) made a fast repeat of Jerry's route [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor) and downgraded it to 8c:
> The only grade I got wrong [in 1995] was Progress at Kilnsey. When I first worked the route I thought definitely not 8c+. I spoke to three others who had all been on the route who all thought it probably 8c+. In the end I gave it 8c+ thinking that perhaps I was climbing better than I thought. The bummer was that I was originally right about the 8c grade and wrong to think I was climbing so great. [2]
### References
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764)
[2] *On The Edge* Issue 53, page 48.
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,6 +1,4 @@
-Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.
-
-Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c after [Nic Sellars](/climber/176/nic-sellars) made a fast repeat of Jerry's route [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor) and downgraded it to 8c:
+Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough. Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c after [Nic Sellars](/climber/176/nic-sellars) made a fast repeat of Jerry's route [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor) and downgraded it to 8c:
> The only grade I got wrong [in 1995] was Progress at Kilnsey. When I first worked the route I thought definitely not 8c+. I spoke to three others who had all been on the route who all thought it probably 8c+. In the end I gave it 8c+ thinking that perhaps I was climbing better than I thought. The bummer was that I was originally right about the 8c grade and wrong to think I was climbing so great. [2]
|
|||||||
3 | 14th August 2024 | 18:12:41 | remus | - | - | notes_pretty | |
Before
<p><a href="/climber/157/ted-kingsnorth">Ted Kingsnorth</a> on hold deterioration:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Regarding holds changing, there are 2 key holds that have altered a bit since the FA in 95. Firstly the crux sidepull/ pod between the second and third bolt for your left hand has got smaller due to it crumbling. Apparently it used to be significantly bigger. Secondly the slopey pod for your right hand used to have more of a lip on it in the 90's and this broke off making this bit harder. Its the redpoint crux now - this broke agin majorly last summer but was repaired back to its former state as the piece that broke was retained and put back exactly how it used to be.</p>
<p>Thirdly, there were some holds between the 6th and 7th bolt that broke about 8 or 9 years ago [2015/16] but a repair was done to a key crimp so this section is about the same as what it used to be (the old holds can be seen in the <a href="/climber/164/chris-savage">Chris Savage</a> video or the <a href="/climber/142/malcolm-smith">Malc</a> pics).</p>
<p>I understand that this year [2024] the jug by the kneebar rest higher up has crumbled plus some other sika has decayed (not sure where) but I don't have any knowledge of this as haven't been up there to look. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697741.html#msg697741">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697741.html#msg697741</a></p>
After
<p><a href="/climber/157/ted-kingsnorth">Ted Kingsnorth</a> on hold deterioration:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Regarding holds changing, there are 2 key holds that have altered a bit since the FA in 95. Firstly the crux sidepull/ pod between the second and third bolt for your left hand has got smaller due to it crumbling. Apparently it used to be significantly bigger. Secondly the slopey pod for your right hand used to have more of a lip on it in the 90's and this broke off making this bit harder. Its the redpoint crux now - this broke agin majorly last summer but was repaired back to its former state as the piece that broke was retained and put back exactly how it used to be.</p>
<p>Thirdly, there were some holds between the 6th and 7th bolt that broke about 8 or 9 years ago [2015/16] but a repair was done to a key crimp so this section is about the same as what it used to be (the old holds can be seen in the <a href="/climber/164/chris-savage">Chris Savage</a> video or the <a href="/climber/142/malcolm-smith">Malc</a> pics).</p>
<p>I understand that this year [2024] the jug by the kneebar rest higher up has crumbled plus some other sika has decayed (not sure where) but I don't have any knowledge of this as haven't been up there to look. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>On balance it is not possible to know whether the route has gotten noticeably harder since the first ascent because no one has tried the route in it's previous state vs. it's current state to know if the difficulty has changed.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697741.html#msg697741">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697741.html#msg697741</a></p>
|
|||||||
4 | 14th August 2024 | 18:12:41 | remus | - | - | notes | |
Before
[Ted Kingsnorth](/climber/157/ted-kingsnorth) on hold deterioration:
> Regarding holds changing, there are 2 key holds that have altered a bit since the FA in 95. Firstly the crux sidepull/ pod between the second and third bolt for your left hand has got smaller due to it crumbling. Apparently it used to be significantly bigger. Secondly the slopey pod for your right hand used to have more of a lip on it in the 90's and this broke off making this bit harder. Its the redpoint crux now - this broke agin majorly last summer but was repaired back to its former state as the piece that broke was retained and put back exactly how it used to be.
> Thirdly, there were some holds between the 6th and 7th bolt that broke about 8 or 9 years ago [2015/16] but a repair was done to a key crimp so this section is about the same as what it used to be (the old holds can be seen in the [Chris Savage](/climber/164/chris-savage) video or the [Malc](/climber/142/malcolm-smith) pics).
> I understand that this year [2024] the jug by the kneebar rest higher up has crumbled plus some other sika has decayed (not sure where) but I don't have any knowledge of this as haven't been up there to look. [1]
### References
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697741.html#msg697741](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697741.html#msg697741)
After
[Ted Kingsnorth](/climber/157/ted-kingsnorth) on hold deterioration:
> Regarding holds changing, there are 2 key holds that have altered a bit since the FA in 95. Firstly the crux sidepull/ pod between the second and third bolt for your left hand has got smaller due to it crumbling. Apparently it used to be significantly bigger. Secondly the slopey pod for your right hand used to have more of a lip on it in the 90's and this broke off making this bit harder. Its the redpoint crux now - this broke agin majorly last summer but was repaired back to its former state as the piece that broke was retained and put back exactly how it used to be.
> Thirdly, there were some holds between the 6th and 7th bolt that broke about 8 or 9 years ago [2015/16] but a repair was done to a key crimp so this section is about the same as what it used to be (the old holds can be seen in the [Chris Savage](/climber/164/chris-savage) video or the [Malc](/climber/142/malcolm-smith) pics).
> I understand that this year [2024] the jug by the kneebar rest higher up has crumbled plus some other sika has decayed (not sure where) but I don't have any knowledge of this as haven't been up there to look. [1]
On balance it is not possible to know whether the route has gotten noticeably harder since the first ascent because no one has tried the route in it's previous state vs. it's current state to know if the difficulty has changed.
### References
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697741.html#msg697741](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697741.html#msg697741)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -6,6 +6,8 @@
> I understand that this year [2024] the jug by the kneebar rest higher up has crumbled plus some other sika has decayed (not sure where) but I don't have any knowledge of this as haven't been up there to look. [1]
+On balance it is not possible to know whether the route has gotten noticeably harder since the first ascent because no one has tried the route in it's previous state vs. it's current state to know if the difficulty has changed.
+
### References
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697741.html#msg697741](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697741.html#msg697741)
|
|||||||
5 | 14th August 2024 | 18:10:48 | remus | - | - | notes_pretty | |
Before
None
After
<p><a href="/climber/157/ted-kingsnorth">Ted Kingsnorth</a> on hold deterioration:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Regarding holds changing, there are 2 key holds that have altered a bit since the FA in 95. Firstly the crux sidepull/ pod between the second and third bolt for your left hand has got smaller due to it crumbling. Apparently it used to be significantly bigger. Secondly the slopey pod for your right hand used to have more of a lip on it in the 90's and this broke off making this bit harder. Its the redpoint crux now - this broke agin majorly last summer but was repaired back to its former state as the piece that broke was retained and put back exactly how it used to be.</p>
<p>Thirdly, there were some holds between the 6th and 7th bolt that broke about 8 or 9 years ago [2015/16] but a repair was done to a key crimp so this section is about the same as what it used to be (the old holds can be seen in the <a href="/climber/164/chris-savage">Chris Savage</a> video or the <a href="/climber/142/malcolm-smith">Malc</a> pics).</p>
<p>I understand that this year [2024] the jug by the kneebar rest higher up has crumbled plus some other sika has decayed (not sure where) but I don't have any knowledge of this as haven't been up there to look. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697741.html#msg697741">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697741.html#msg697741</a></p>
|
|||||||
6 | 14th August 2024 | 18:10:48 | remus | - | - | notes | |
Before
None
After
[Ted Kingsnorth](/climber/157/ted-kingsnorth) on hold deterioration:
> Regarding holds changing, there are 2 key holds that have altered a bit since the FA in 95. Firstly the crux sidepull/ pod between the second and third bolt for your left hand has got smaller due to it crumbling. Apparently it used to be significantly bigger. Secondly the slopey pod for your right hand used to have more of a lip on it in the 90's and this broke off making this bit harder. Its the redpoint crux now - this broke agin majorly last summer but was repaired back to its former state as the piece that broke was retained and put back exactly how it used to be.
> Thirdly, there were some holds between the 6th and 7th bolt that broke about 8 or 9 years ago [2015/16] but a repair was done to a key crimp so this section is about the same as what it used to be (the old holds can be seen in the [Chris Savage](/climber/164/chris-savage) video or the [Malc](/climber/142/malcolm-smith) pics).
> I understand that this year [2024] the jug by the kneebar rest higher up has crumbled plus some other sika has decayed (not sure where) but I don't have any knowledge of this as haven't been up there to look. [1]
### References
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697741.html#msg697741](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697741.html#msg697741)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1 +1,11 @@
-
+[Ted Kingsnorth](/climber/157/ted-kingsnorth) on hold deterioration:
+
+> Regarding holds changing, there are 2 key holds that have altered a bit since the FA in 95. Firstly the crux sidepull/ pod between the second and third bolt for your left hand has got smaller due to it crumbling. Apparently it used to be significantly bigger. Secondly the slopey pod for your right hand used to have more of a lip on it in the 90's and this broke off making this bit harder. Its the redpoint crux now - this broke agin majorly last summer but was repaired back to its former state as the piece that broke was retained and put back exactly how it used to be.
+
+> Thirdly, there were some holds between the 6th and 7th bolt that broke about 8 or 9 years ago [2015/16] but a repair was done to a key crimp so this section is about the same as what it used to be (the old holds can be seen in the [Chris Savage](/climber/164/chris-savage) video or the [Malc](/climber/142/malcolm-smith) pics).
+
+> I understand that this year [2024] the jug by the kneebar rest higher up has crumbled plus some other sika has decayed (not sure where) but I don't have any knowledge of this as haven't been up there to look. [1]
+
+### References
+
+[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697741.html#msg697741](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697741.html#msg697741)
|
|||||||
7 | 14th August 2024 | 17:58:21 | remus | ascent | Jerry Moffatt | notes | |
Before
Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.
Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c+ after [Nic Sellars](/climber/176/nic-sellars) made a fast repeat of [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor) and downgraded it to 8c:
> The only grade I got wrong [in 1995] was Progress at Kilnsey. When I first worked the route I thought definitely not 8c+. I spoke to three others who had all been on the route who all thought it probably 8c+. In the end I gave it 8c+ thinking that perhaps I was climbing better than I thought. The bummer was that I was originally right about the 8c grade and wrong to think I was climbing so great. [2]
### References
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764)
[2] *On The Edge* Issue 53, page 48.
After
Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.
Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c after [Nic Sellars](/climber/176/nic-sellars) made a fast repeat of Jerry's route [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor) and downgraded it to 8c:
> The only grade I got wrong [in 1995] was Progress at Kilnsey. When I first worked the route I thought definitely not 8c+. I spoke to three others who had all been on the route who all thought it probably 8c+. In the end I gave it 8c+ thinking that perhaps I was climbing better than I thought. The bummer was that I was originally right about the 8c grade and wrong to think I was climbing so great. [2]
### References
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764)
[2] *On The Edge* Issue 53, page 48.
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@
Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.
-Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c+ after [Nic Sellars](/climber/176/nic-sellars) made a fast repeat of [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor) and downgraded it to 8c:
+Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c after [Nic Sellars](/climber/176/nic-sellars) made a fast repeat of Jerry's route [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor) and downgraded it to 8c:
> The only grade I got wrong [in 1995] was Progress at Kilnsey. When I first worked the route I thought definitely not 8c+. I spoke to three others who had all been on the route who all thought it probably 8c+. In the end I gave it 8c+ thinking that perhaps I was climbing better than I thought. The bummer was that I was originally right about the 8c grade and wrong to think I was climbing so great. [2]
|
|||||||
8 | 14th August 2024 | 17:58:21 | remus | ascent | Jerry Moffatt | notes_pretty | |
Before
<p>Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.</p>
<p>Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c+ after <a href="/climber/176/nic-sellars">Nic Sellars</a> made a fast repeat of <a href="/climb/67/evolution">Evolution</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor">Raven Tor</a> and downgraded it to 8c:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The only grade I got wrong [in 1995] was Progress at Kilnsey. When I first worked the route I thought definitely not 8c+. I spoke to three others who had all been on the route who all thought it probably 8c+. In the end I gave it 8c+ thinking that perhaps I was climbing better than I thought. The bummer was that I was originally right about the 8c grade and wrong to think I was climbing so great. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764</a></p>
<p>[2] <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 53, page 48.</p>
After
<p>Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.</p>
<p>Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c after <a href="/climber/176/nic-sellars">Nic Sellars</a> made a fast repeat of Jerry's route <a href="/climb/67/evolution">Evolution</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor">Raven Tor</a> and downgraded it to 8c:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The only grade I got wrong [in 1995] was Progress at Kilnsey. When I first worked the route I thought definitely not 8c+. I spoke to three others who had all been on the route who all thought it probably 8c+. In the end I gave it 8c+ thinking that perhaps I was climbing better than I thought. The bummer was that I was originally right about the 8c grade and wrong to think I was climbing so great. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764</a></p>
<p>[2] <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 53, page 48.</p>
|
|||||||
9 | 14th August 2024 | 17:54:23 | remus | ascent | Jerry Moffatt | notes_pretty | |
Before
<p>Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.</p>
<p>Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c+ after <a href="/climber/176/nic-sellars">Nic Sellars</a> made a fast repeat of <a href="/climb/67/evolution">Evolution</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor">Raven Tor</a> and downgraded it to 8c.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764</a></p>
After
<p>Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.</p>
<p>Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c+ after <a href="/climber/176/nic-sellars">Nic Sellars</a> made a fast repeat of <a href="/climb/67/evolution">Evolution</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor">Raven Tor</a> and downgraded it to 8c:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The only grade I got wrong [in 1995] was Progress at Kilnsey. When I first worked the route I thought definitely not 8c+. I spoke to three others who had all been on the route who all thought it probably 8c+. In the end I gave it 8c+ thinking that perhaps I was climbing better than I thought. The bummer was that I was originally right about the 8c grade and wrong to think I was climbing so great. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764</a></p>
<p>[2] <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 53, page 48.</p>
|
|||||||
10 | 14th August 2024 | 17:54:23 | remus | ascent | Jerry Moffatt | notes | |
Before
Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.
Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c+ after [Nic Sellars](/climber/176/nic-sellars) made a fast repeat of [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor) and downgraded it to 8c.
### References
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764)
After
Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.
Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c+ after [Nic Sellars](/climber/176/nic-sellars) made a fast repeat of [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor) and downgraded it to 8c:
> The only grade I got wrong [in 1995] was Progress at Kilnsey. When I first worked the route I thought definitely not 8c+. I spoke to three others who had all been on the route who all thought it probably 8c+. In the end I gave it 8c+ thinking that perhaps I was climbing better than I thought. The bummer was that I was originally right about the 8c grade and wrong to think I was climbing so great. [2]
### References
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764)
[2] *On The Edge* Issue 53, page 48.
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,7 +1,11 @@
Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.
-Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c+ after [Nic Sellars](/climber/176/nic-sellars) made a fast repeat of [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor) and downgraded it to 8c.
+Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c+ after [Nic Sellars](/climber/176/nic-sellars) made a fast repeat of [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor) and downgraded it to 8c:
+
+> The only grade I got wrong [in 1995] was Progress at Kilnsey. When I first worked the route I thought definitely not 8c+. I spoke to three others who had all been on the route who all thought it probably 8c+. In the end I gave it 8c+ thinking that perhaps I was climbing better than I thought. The bummer was that I was originally right about the 8c grade and wrong to think I was climbing so great. [2]
### References
-[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764)
+[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764)
+
+[2] *On The Edge* Issue 53, page 48.
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11 | 14th August 2024 | 17:46:07 | remus | ascent | Jerry Moffatt | notes_pretty | |
Before
<p>Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764</a></p>
After
<p>Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.</p>
<p>Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c+ after <a href="/climber/176/nic-sellars">Nic Sellars</a> made a fast repeat of <a href="/climb/67/evolution">Evolution</a> at <a href="/crag/146/raven-tor">Raven Tor</a> and downgraded it to 8c.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764</a></p>
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12 | 14th August 2024 | 17:46:07 | remus | ascent | Jerry Moffatt | suggested_grade_id | |
Before
18
After
17
|
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13 | 14th August 2024 | 17:46:07 | remus | ascent | Jerry Moffatt | notes | |
Before
Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.
### References
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764)
After
Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.
Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c+ after [Nic Sellars](/climber/176/nic-sellars) made a fast repeat of [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor) and downgraded it to 8c.
### References
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,4 +1,6 @@
Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.
+
+Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c+ after [Nic Sellars](/climber/176/nic-sellars) made a fast repeat of [Evolution](/climb/67/evolution) at [Raven Tor](/crag/146/raven-tor) and downgraded it to 8c.
### References
|
|||||||
14 | 14th August 2024 | 17:41:27 | remus | ascent | Jerry Moffatt | notes | |
Before
Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764)
After
Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.
### References
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,3 +1,5 @@
Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.
+### References
+
[1] [https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764](https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764)
|
|||||||
15 | 14th August 2024 | 17:41:27 | remus | ascent | Jerry Moffatt | notes_pretty | |
Before
<p>Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.</p>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764</a></p>
After
<p>Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764">https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764</a></p>
|
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16 | 14th August 2024 | 06:19:05 | remus | ascent | Tony Mitchell | climber_id | |
Before
None
After
218
|
|||||||
17 | 14th August 2024 | 06:19:05 | remus | ascent | Tony Mitchell | ascent_type_id | |
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||
18 | 14th August 2024 | 06:19:05 | remus | ascent | Tony Mitchell | notes_pretty | |
Before
None
After
<p>Tony had been attempting the line prior to the first ascent but was shut down by a long move through the roof, which he managed to reach twice from the ground but was unable to pass.</p>
|
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19 | 14th August 2024 | 06:19:05 | remus | ascent | Tony Mitchell | notes | |
Before
None
After
Tony had been attempting the line prior to the first ascent but was shut down by a long move through the roof, which he managed to reach twice from the ground but was unable to pass.
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1 +1 @@
-
+Tony had been attempting the line prior to the first ascent but was shut down by a long move through the roof, which he managed to reach twice from the ground but was unable to pass.
|
|||||||
20 | 14th August 2024 | 06:19:05 | remus | ascent | Tony Mitchell | ascent_style_id | |
Before
None
After
5
|