Change Log for The Force

Overview

Total Changes

22

First Change

27th Dec 2023

Last Change

28th Oct 2024

Log

Date Time User Type Name Attribute
1 28th October 2024 17:30:22 remus ascent Chris Sharma ascent_dt_end
Before
None
After
2000-01-01
2 28th October 2024 17:30:22 remus ascent Chris Sharma ascent_type_id
Before
None
After
2
3 28th October 2024 17:30:22 remus ascent Chris Sharma climber_id
Before
None
After
493
4 28th October 2024 17:30:22 remus ascent Chris Sharma climb_id
Before
None
After
2978
5 28th October 2024 17:30:22 remus ascent Chris Sharma ascent_style_id
Before
None
After
1
6 28th October 2024 17:30:22 remus ascent Chris Sharma notes
Before
None
After
### References [1] *On The Edge* Issue 91, page 49
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -1 +1,3 @@ - +### References + +[1] *On The Edge* Issue 91, page 49
7 28th October 2024 17:30:22 remus ascent Chris Sharma notes_pretty
Before
None
After
<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 91, page 49</p>
8 25th February 2024 21:55:40 remus ascent Jerry Moffatt notes
Before
> The problem, like [Thriller](/climb/986/thriller), was high and hard all the way. We had a short ladder, so I would lean this against the wall and step off onto the problem to try the upper section. The landing was very rocky, and since this was in the days before bouldering pads, I spent some time burying wooden pallets to flatten out the ground. I soon started to get the moves sorted. When we tried it we would bring a cassette player along. At the time, we were listening to Michael Jackson’s album Thriller. There was one song in particular I would listen to while I looked at the problem, visualising the moves before an attempt. It started off: > ‘The Force. It’s got a lot of power.’ > It was a great line. Later, when I did the problem, I called it The Force. [1] ### References [1] [Revelations (2010)](/library/320/revelations)
After
> The problem, like [Thriller](/climb/986/thriller), was high and hard all the way. We had a short ladder, so I would lean this against the wall and step off onto the problem to try the upper section. The landing was very rocky, and since this was in the days before bouldering pads, I spent some time burying wooden pallets to flatten out the ground. I soon started to get the moves sorted. When we tried it we would bring a cassette player along. At the time, we were listening to Michael Jackson’s album Thriller. There was one song in particular I would listen to while I looked at the problem, visualising the moves before an attempt. It started off: > ‘The Force. It’s got a lot of power.’ > It was a great line. Later, when I did the problem, I called it The Force. > ... > Later that year, my old friend [John Bachar](/climber/722/john-bachar) went to The Force, got a crow bar and levered off the formerly loose flake that Mark Chapman had reinforced. He claimed the glue was unethical, and for that, he destroyed the problem. Left behind, in place of a tiny hold that gave a desperate move, there was a large flat ledge which allowed an easy reach high into the problem. The Force was changed utterly, nowhere near the problem it once was. Originally Bachar denied it, but Mark Chapman had seen him at the boulders, so he admitted it later. I was angry, frustrated and disappointed. The glue was invisible and made no difference, serving only to protect the problem. Bachar had been going through a bad time back then. The nature of climbing, always so precious to him, was changing. In Yosemite and other crags, the use of bolts was becoming widespread, threatening the traditional values of boldness and commitment that he had always championed and excelled at. He became entrenched, began to lose friendships and, perhaps, perspective. [1] ### References [1] [Revelations (2010)](/library/320/revelations)
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -2,7 +2,11 @@ > ‘The Force. It’s got a lot of power.’ -> It was a great line. Later, when I did the problem, I called it The Force. [1] +> It was a great line. Later, when I did the problem, I called it The Force. + +> ... + +> Later that year, my old friend [John Bachar](/climber/722/john-bachar) went to The Force, got a crow bar and levered off the formerly loose flake that Mark Chapman had reinforced. He claimed the glue was unethical, and for that, he destroyed the problem. Left behind, in place of a tiny hold that gave a desperate move, there was a large flat ledge which allowed an easy reach high into the problem. The Force was changed utterly, nowhere near the problem it once was. Originally Bachar denied it, but Mark Chapman had seen him at the boulders, so he admitted it later. I was angry, frustrated and disappointed. The glue was invisible and made no difference, serving only to protect the problem. Bachar had been going through a bad time back then. The nature of climbing, always so precious to him, was changing. In Yosemite and other crags, the use of bolts was becoming widespread, threatening the traditional values of boldness and commitment that he had always championed and excelled at. He became entrenched, began to lose friendships and, perhaps, perspective. [1] ### References
9 25th February 2024 21:55:40 remus ascent Jerry Moffatt notes_pretty
Before
<blockquote> <p>The problem, like <a href="/climb/986/thriller">Thriller</a>, was high and hard all the way. We had a short ladder, so I would lean this against the wall and step off onto the problem to try the upper section. The landing was very rocky, and since this was in the days before bouldering pads, I spent some time burying wooden pallets to flatten out the ground. I soon started to get the moves sorted. When we tried it we would bring a cassette player along. At the time, we were listening to Michael Jackson’s album Thriller. There was one song in particular I would listen to while I looked at the problem, visualising the moves before an attempt. It started off:</p> <p>‘The Force. It’s got a lot of power.’</p> <p>It was a great line. Later, when I did the problem, I called it The Force. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/library/320/revelations">Revelations (2010)</a></p>
After
<blockquote> <p>The problem, like <a href="/climb/986/thriller">Thriller</a>, was high and hard all the way. We had a short ladder, so I would lean this against the wall and step off onto the problem to try the upper section. The landing was very rocky, and since this was in the days before bouldering pads, I spent some time burying wooden pallets to flatten out the ground. I soon started to get the moves sorted. When we tried it we would bring a cassette player along. At the time, we were listening to Michael Jackson’s album Thriller. There was one song in particular I would listen to while I looked at the problem, visualising the moves before an attempt. It started off:</p> <p>‘The Force. It’s got a lot of power.’</p> <p>It was a great line. Later, when I did the problem, I called it The Force.</p> <p>...</p> <p>Later that year, my old friend <a href="/climber/722/john-bachar">John Bachar</a> went to The Force, got a crow bar and levered off the formerly loose flake that Mark Chapman had reinforced. He claimed the glue was unethical, and for that, he destroyed the problem. Left behind, in place of a tiny hold that gave a desperate move, there was a large flat ledge which allowed an easy reach high into the problem. The Force was changed utterly, nowhere near the problem it once was. Originally Bachar denied it, but Mark Chapman had seen him at the boulders, so he admitted it later. I was angry, frustrated and disappointed. The glue was invisible and made no difference, serving only to protect the problem. Bachar had been going through a bad time back then. The nature of climbing, always so precious to him, was changing. In Yosemite and other crags, the use of bolts was becoming widespread, threatening the traditional values of boldness and commitment that he had always championed and excelled at. He became entrenched, began to lose friendships and, perhaps, perspective. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/library/320/revelations">Revelations (2010)</a></p>
10 25th February 2024 21:12:01 remus ascent Jerry Moffatt notes
Before
None
After
> The problem, like [Thriller](/climb/986/thriller), was high and hard all the way. We had a short ladder, so I would lean this against the wall and step off onto the problem to try the upper section. The landing was very rocky, and since this was in the days before bouldering pads, I spent some time burying wooden pallets to flatten out the ground. I soon started to get the moves sorted. When we tried it we would bring a cassette player along. At the time, we were listening to Michael Jackson’s album Thriller. There was one song in particular I would listen to while I looked at the problem, visualising the moves before an attempt. It started off: > ‘The Force. It’s got a lot of power.’ > It was a great line. Later, when I did the problem, I called it The Force. [1] ### References [1] [Revelations (2010)](/library/320/revelations)
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -1 +1,9 @@ - +> The problem, like [Thriller](/climb/986/thriller), was high and hard all the way. We had a short ladder, so I would lean this against the wall and step off onto the problem to try the upper section. The landing was very rocky, and since this was in the days before bouldering pads, I spent some time burying wooden pallets to flatten out the ground. I soon started to get the moves sorted. When we tried it we would bring a cassette player along. At the time, we were listening to Michael Jackson’s album Thriller. There was one song in particular I would listen to while I looked at the problem, visualising the moves before an attempt. It started off: + +> ‘The Force. It’s got a lot of power.’ + +> It was a great line. Later, when I did the problem, I called it The Force. [1] + +### References + +[1] [Revelations (2010)](/library/320/revelations)
11 25th February 2024 21:12:01 remus ascent Jerry Moffatt notes_pretty
Before
None
After
<blockquote> <p>The problem, like <a href="/climb/986/thriller">Thriller</a>, was high and hard all the way. We had a short ladder, so I would lean this against the wall and step off onto the problem to try the upper section. The landing was very rocky, and since this was in the days before bouldering pads, I spent some time burying wooden pallets to flatten out the ground. I soon started to get the moves sorted. When we tried it we would bring a cassette player along. At the time, we were listening to Michael Jackson’s album Thriller. There was one song in particular I would listen to while I looked at the problem, visualising the moves before an attempt. It started off:</p> <p>‘The Force. It’s got a lot of power.’</p> <p>It was a great line. Later, when I did the problem, I called it The Force. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/library/320/revelations">Revelations (2010)</a></p>
12 27th December 2023 17:54:47 remus ascent Jerry Moffatt ascent_dt_end
Before
None
After
1992-01-01
13 27th December 2023 17:54:47 remus ascent Jerry Moffatt climber_id
Before
None
After
131
14 27th December 2023 17:54:47 remus ascent Jerry Moffatt climb_id
Before
None
After
2978
15 27th December 2023 17:54:47 remus ascent Jerry Moffatt fa
Before
false
After
true
16 27th December 2023 17:54:47 remus ascent Jerry Moffatt ascent_style_id
Before
None
After
1
17 27th December 2023 17:54:47 remus ascent Jerry Moffatt ascent_type_id
Before
None
After
2
18 27th December 2023 17:54:47 remus ascent Jerry Moffatt ascent_dt_start
Before
None
After
1991-01-01
19 27th December 2023 17:54:31 remus - - climb_type
Before
None
After
2
20 27th December 2023 17:54:31 remus - - ukc_url
Before
None
After
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/camp_4_boulders-2600/the_force-399966

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