| Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 18th June 2024 | 19:28:24 | remus | ascent | Craig Matheson | notes | |
|
Before
A crucial RP protects the top of the route. Craig found he couldn't place the piece reliably so opted to pre-place it instead. Even clipping the pre-placed wire was so strenuous that he opted to velcro a quickdraw to his t-shirt to speed up the process! [2]
On the RP, Craig noted:
> If you go and try 'Hard Cheese' and you want to drop a rope down the crag to do this, then please do not use this 'RP' placement, to clip your abseil rope into – this placement is both fragile and poor. It needs to be preserved for those on the lead. The placement only works with a downwards pull and an outwards loading of an abseil 'deviation' will strip it – many thanks.
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9zvGrDdKl/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9zvGrDdKl/)
[2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926)
[3] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/the_story_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a-72947](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/the_story_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a-72947)
[4] Interview with [Franco Cookson](/climber/570/franco-cookson) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o72LLws0gEQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o72LLws0gEQ)
After
A crucial RP protects the top of the route. Craig found he couldn't place the piece reliably so opted to pre-place it instead. Even clipping the pre-placed wire was so strenuous that he opted to velcro a quickdraw to his t-shirt to speed up the process! [2]
On the RP, Craig noted:
> If you go and try 'Hard Cheese' and you want to drop a rope down the crag to do this, then please do not use this 'RP' placement, to clip your abseil rope into – this placement is both fragile and poor. It needs to be preserved for those on the lead. The placement only works with a downwards pull and an outwards loading of an abseil 'deviation' will strip it – many thanks.
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9zvGrDdKl/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9zvGrDdKl/)
[2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926)
[3] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/the_story_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a-72947](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/the_story_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a-72947)
[4] Interview with [Franco Cookson](/climber/570/franco-cookson) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o72LLws0gEQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o72LLws0gEQ)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -3,6 +3,8 @@
On the RP, Craig noted:
> If you go and try 'Hard Cheese' and you want to drop a rope down the crag to do this, then please do not use this 'RP' placement, to clip your abseil rope into – this placement is both fragile and poor. It needs to be preserved for those on the lead. The placement only works with a downwards pull and an outwards loading of an abseil 'deviation' will strip it – many thanks.
+
+### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9zvGrDdKl/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9zvGrDdKl/)
|
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| 2 | 18th June 2024 | 19:28:24 | remus | ascent | Craig Matheson | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>A crucial RP protects the top of the route. Craig found he couldn't place the piece reliably so opted to pre-place it instead. Even clipping the pre-placed wire was so strenuous that he opted to velcro a quickdraw to his t-shirt to speed up the process! [2]</p>
<p>On the RP, Craig noted:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>If you go and try 'Hard Cheese' and you want to drop a rope down the crag to do this, then please do not use this 'RP' placement, to clip your abseil rope into – this placement is both fragile and poor. It needs to be preserved for those on the lead. The placement only works with a downwards pull and an outwards loading of an abseil 'deviation' will strip it – many thanks.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9zvGrDdKl/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9zvGrDdKl/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/the_story_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a-72947">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/the_story_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a-72947</a></p>
<p>[4] Interview with <a href="/climber/570/franco-cookson">Franco Cookson</a> <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o72LLws0gEQ">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o72LLws0gEQ</a></p>
After
<p>A crucial RP protects the top of the route. Craig found he couldn't place the piece reliably so opted to pre-place it instead. Even clipping the pre-placed wire was so strenuous that he opted to velcro a quickdraw to his t-shirt to speed up the process! [2]</p>
<p>On the RP, Craig noted:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>If you go and try 'Hard Cheese' and you want to drop a rope down the crag to do this, then please do not use this 'RP' placement, to clip your abseil rope into – this placement is both fragile and poor. It needs to be preserved for those on the lead. The placement only works with a downwards pull and an outwards loading of an abseil 'deviation' will strip it – many thanks.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9zvGrDdKl/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9zvGrDdKl/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/the_story_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a-72947">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/the_story_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a-72947</a></p>
<p>[4] Interview with <a href="/climber/570/franco-cookson">Franco Cookson</a> <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o72LLws0gEQ">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o72LLws0gEQ</a></p>
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| 3 | 13th December 2022 | 18:24:15 | remus | - | - | - | |
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| 4 | 11th November 2021 | 17:12:28 | remus | - | - | - | |
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| 5 | 7th November 2021 | 08:56:53 | remus | - | - | - | |
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| 6 | 7th November 2021 | 08:47:14 | remus | - | - | - | |
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