duncancritchley

	Name	Type	# Changes	Last Updated	First Updated
1	Royal Robbins's ascent of Wall of Early Morning Light	ascent	33	9th October 2025	8th October 2025
2	Freerider	climb	31	5th December 2025	13th November 2025
3	Frank Sacherer	climber	27	10th October 2025	9th October 2025
4	The Nose	climb	27	18th December 2025	13th November 2025
5	Muir Wall	climb	27	10th November 2025	9th October 2025
6	El Corazón	climb	26	14th November 2025	13th November 2025
7	Scott Cosgrove	climber	25	9th December 2025	10th November 2025
8	Joe Brown's ascent of Cenotaph Corner	ascent	24	16th December 2025	2nd October 2025
9	John Salathé's ascent of Lost Arrow Chimney	ascent	24	9th October 2025	9th October 2025
10	Steve Roper	climber	24	10th October 2025	10th October 2025

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
121	20th December 2025	10:50:53	duncancritchley	ascent	Alexander Adler's ascent of Wallstreet	ascent_type_id
Before `None` After `1`
122	20th December 2025	10:50:53	duncancritchley	ascent	Alexander Adler's ascent of Wallstreet	ascent_dt_start
Before `None` After `1992-01-01`
123	20th December 2025	10:50:53	duncancritchley	ascent	Alexander Adler's ascent of Wallstreet	ascent_dt_end
Before `None` After `1993-01-01`
124	19th December 2025	10:20:56	duncancritchley	climber	Jean-Paul de St. Croix	climber_name
Before `J.P. de St. Croix` After `Jean-Paul de St. Croix`
125	18th December 2025	21:06:26	duncancritchley	climb	The Nose	notes_pretty
Before <p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p> <p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p> <p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p> After <p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p> <p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p> <p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>
126	18th December 2025	21:06:26	duncancritchley	climb	The Nose	notes
Before Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. [Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed. Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free) After Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. [Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed. Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -4,9 +4,9 @@ In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. -In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. +In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. -[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed. +[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed. Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches.
127	18th December 2025	20:55:24	duncancritchley	climb	The Nose	notes
Before Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. [Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed. Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. She was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free) After Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. [Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed. Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ [Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed. -Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. She was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls +Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. ### References
128	18th December 2025	20:55:24	duncancritchley	climb	The Nose	notes_pretty
Before <p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p> <p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p> <p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. She was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p> After <p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p> <p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p> <p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>
129	18th December 2025	20:49:47	duncancritchley	climb	The Nose	notes_pretty
Before <p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p> <p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p> After <p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p> <p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p> <p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. She was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>
130	18th December 2025	20:49:47	duncancritchley	climb	The Nose	notes
Before Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. [Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free) After Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. [Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed. Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. She was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -4,9 +4,11 @@ In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. -In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. +In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. -[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. +[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed. + +Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. She was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls ### References
131	18th December 2025	20:28:42	duncancritchley	climb	The Nose	notes
Before Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. [Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free) After Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. [Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -4,9 +4,9 @@ In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. -In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. +In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. -[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993. +[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. ### References
132	18th December 2025	20:28:42	duncancritchley	climb	The Nose	notes_pretty
Before <p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992.</p> <p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p> After <p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p> <p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>
133	18th December 2025	20:20:50	duncancritchley	climb	The Nose	notes_pretty
Before <p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> After <p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992.</p> <p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>
134	18th December 2025	20:20:50	duncancritchley	climb	The Nose	notes
Before Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) After Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. [Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -5,6 +5,8 @@ In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. + +[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993. ### References @@ -18,4 +20,4 @@ [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) -[6] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) +[6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)
135	18th December 2025	20:16:20	duncancritchley	climb	The Nose	notes
Before Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free: Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder in Fall 1990. Sandhal returned in 1991, bolted a variation and freed the Harding bolt ladder. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) After Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. -[Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free: Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder in Fall 1990. Sandhal returned in 1991, bolted a variation and freed the Harding bolt ladder. +In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. ### References
136	18th December 2025	20:16:20	duncancritchley	climb	The Nose	notes_pretty
Before <p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p><a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free: Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder in Fall 1990. Sandhal returned in 1991, bolted a variation and freed the Harding bolt ladder. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> After <p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
137	18th December 2025	20:11:07	duncancritchley	climb	The Nose	notes_pretty
Before <p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. After fixing ropes and spending several months on attempts in Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> climbed as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> After <p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p> <p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p> <p><a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free: Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder in Fall 1990. Sandhal returned in 1991, bolted a variation and freed the Harding bolt ladder. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p> <p>[6] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
138	18th December 2025	20:11:07	duncancritchley	climb	The Nose	notes
Before Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. After fixing ropes and spending several months on attempts in Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) climbed as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) After Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free: Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder in Fall 1990. Sandhal returned in 1991, bolted a variation and freed the Harding bolt ladder. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) [6] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,10 @@ Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. -The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. After fixing ropes and spending several months on attempts in Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) climbed as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. +The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. + +In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse. + +[Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free: Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder in Fall 1990. Sandhal returned in 1991, bolted a variation and freed the Harding bolt ladder. ### References @@ -10,4 +14,8 @@ [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) -[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) +[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) + +[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/) + +[6] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)
139	18th December 2025	19:54:49	duncancritchley	climb	The Nose	notes_pretty
Before `<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by Jim Bridwell in 1967.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>` After <p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p> <p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. After fixing ropes and spending several months on attempts in Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> climbed as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p> <p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
140	18th December 2025	19:54:49	duncancritchley	climb	The Nose	notes
Before `Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by Jim Bridwell in 1967. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)` After Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. After fixing ropes and spending several months on attempts in Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) climbed as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ [2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) [4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,7 +1,13 @@ -Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by Jim Bridwell in 1967. +Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. + +The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. After fixing ropes and spending several months on attempts in Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) climbed as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. ### References [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/ -[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) +[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html) + +[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7) + +[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

Before

None

After

1

Before

None

After

1992-01-01

Before

None

After

1993-01-01

Before

J.P. de St. Croix

After

Jean-Paul de St. Croix

Before

<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p>
<p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches.   </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>

After

<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p>
<p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches.   </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>

Before

Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. 

In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. 

[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.

Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches.   

### References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

[6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)

After

Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. 

In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. 

[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.

Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches.   

### References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

[6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -4,9 +4,9 @@

 

 In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

 

-In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. 

+In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 (5.12c/7b+) and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992 (5.12d/7c). They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. 

 

-[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.

+[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 (5.13b/8a) but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.

 

 Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches.

Before

Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. 

In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. 

[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.

Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. She was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls  

### References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

[6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)

After

Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. 

In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. 

[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.

Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches.   

### References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

[6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -8,7 +8,7 @@

 

 [Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.

 

-Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. She was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls  

+Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches.   

 

 ### References

Before

<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p>
<p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. She was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls  </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>

After

<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p>
<p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. Hill was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls. The completely free ascent was made from the ground with Hill leading all the hard pitches.   </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>

Before

<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>

After

<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.</p>
<p>Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. She was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls  </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>

Before

Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. 

In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. 

[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation.

### References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

[6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)

After

Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. 

In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. 

[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.

Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. She was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls  

### References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

[6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -4,9 +4,11 @@

 

 In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

 

-In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. 

+In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining aided sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. 

 

-[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation.

+[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to completely free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation. All bar 10 feet of the route had now been free-climbed.

+

+Hill and Sandahl joined forces later in the summer of 1993 and began working the Changing Corners pitch top-down, Sandhal focusing on his left hand variation, Hill on the original aid line. She was able to climb all the moves on the latter with two falls  

 

 ### References

Before

Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. 

In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992.

[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993.

### References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

[6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)

After

Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. 

In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. 

[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation.

### References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

[6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -4,9 +4,9 @@

 

 In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

 

-In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992.

+In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. 

 

-[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993.

+[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation.

 

 ### References

Before

<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>

After

<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Working top-down, Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992. They prepared the route for a free ascent including bolting a variation just the left of the aid line on the Changing Corners pitch but were unable to climb this. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993 but they were unable to free the Changing Corners by either the original line or the Sandhal/Schultz variation.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>

Before

<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>

After

<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/555/lynn-hill" rel="noopener noreferrer">Lynn Hill</a> partnered by <a href="/climber/485/simon-nadin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Simon Nadin</a> first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free</a></p>

Before

Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. 

In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992.

### References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

[6] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

After

Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. 

In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992.

[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993.

### References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

[6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -5,6 +5,8 @@

 In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

 

 In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992.

+

+[Lynn Hill](/climber/555/lynn-hill) partnered by [Simon Nadin](/climber/485/simon-nadin) first free climbed the Great Roof on a ground-up attempt in 1993.

 

 ### References

 

@@ -18,4 +20,4 @@

 

 [5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

 

-[6] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)
+[6] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199404100/El-Capitans-Nose-Climbed-Free)

Before

Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. 

In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

[Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free: Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder in Fall 1990. Sandhal returned in 1991, bolted a variation and freed the Harding bolt ladder. 

### References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

[6] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

After

Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. 

In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992.

### References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

[6] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -4,7 +4,7 @@

 

 In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

 

-[Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free: Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder in Fall 1990. Sandhal returned in 1991, bolted a variation and freed the Harding bolt ladder. 

+In Fall 1990, [Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with [Dave Schultz](/climber/3444/dave-schultz), freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992.

 

 ### References

Before

<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free: Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder in Fall 1990. Sandhal returned in 1991, bolted a variation and freed the Harding bolt ladder. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>

After

<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p>In Fall 1990, <a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free, the remaining sections were the Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder. Sandhal freed the Harding bolt ladder in 1991 and, with <a href="/climber/3444/dave-schultz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dave Schultz</a>, freed the pitch above Camp 5 in 1992.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>

Before

<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a>  in 1967. After fixing ropes and spending several months on attempts in Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> climbed as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>

After

<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a> in 1967. </p>
<p>In Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl" rel="noopener noreferrer">Brooke Sandahl</a> and <a href="/climber/1119/scott-franklin" rel="noopener noreferrer">Scott Franklin</a> climbed all but four pitches free: Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder in Fall 1990. Sandhal returned in 1991, bolted a variation and freed the Harding bolt ladder. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>
<p>[6] <a href="https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/</a></p>

Before

Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell)  in 1967. After fixing ropes and spending several months on attempts in Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) climbed as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. 

### References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

After

Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. 

In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

[Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free: Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder in Fall 1990. Sandhal returned in 1991, bolted a variation and freed the Harding bolt ladder. 

### References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

[6] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,10 @@

 Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

 

-The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell)  in 1967. After fixing ropes and spending several months on attempts in Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) climbed as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. 

+The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell) in 1967. 

+

+In Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) spent 4 months working the route, fixing ropes, managing to climb as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. So far (2025) all subsequent free ascents have taken this traverse.

+

+[Brooke Sandahl](/climber/3448/brooke-sandahl) and [Scott Franklin](/climber/1119/scott-franklin) climbed all but four pitches free: Great Roof, Pitch above Camp 5, Changing Corners and the final Harding bolt ladder in Fall 1990. Sandhal returned in 1991, bolted a variation and freed the Harding bolt ladder. 

 

 ### References

 

@@ -10,4 +14,8 @@

 

 [3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

 

-[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)
+[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

+

+[5] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

+

+[6] [https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/](https://climbingzine.com/brooke-sandahl-beginnings-freeing-nose/)

Before

<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by Jim Bridwell in 1967.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>

After

<p>Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. </p>
<p>The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by <a href="/climber/718/jim-bridwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jim Bridwell</a>  in 1967. After fixing ropes and spending several months on attempts in Spring 1980 <a href="/climber/527/ray-jardine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray Jardine</a> climbed as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/</p>
<p>[2] <a href="http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php</a></p>

Before

Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by Jim Bridwell in 1967.

### References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

After

Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell)  in 1967. After fixing ropes and spending several months on attempts in Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) climbed as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. 

### References

[1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,7 +1,13 @@

-Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by Jim Bridwell in 1967.

+Different pitches were freed over many years before Lynn Hill's completely free ascent. 

+

+The Stoveleg Cracks were first climbed free by [Jim Bridwell](/climber/718/jim-bridwell)  in 1967. After fixing ropes and spending several months on attempts in Spring 1980 [Ray Jardine](/climber/527/ray-jardine) climbed as far as the Great Roof free but only after chipping four holds on the Jardine Traverse to avoid the King Swing pendulum. 

 

 ### References

 

 [1] https://alpinist.com/features/birds-eye-view/

 

-[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)
+[2] [http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html](http://www.edhartouni.net/nose-in-a-day.html)

+

+[3] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7](https://www.rayjardine.com/Papers/Magazine-Articles/index.php?StoryPage=7)

+

+[4] [https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php](https://www.rayjardine.com/Avocations/Rock-Climbing/index.php)

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