duncan

	Country	Contributions	Between	Climbers	Crags	Climbs	Ascents
1	USA	4954	9th July 2025 – 2nd November 2026	95	21	110	311
2	United Kingdom	3682	7th July 2025 – 2nd November 2026	157	190	81	256
3	Italy	500	12th July 2025 – 4th October 2026	6	15	14	34
4	Germany	236	11th August 2025 – 16th October 2026	14	8	6	4
5	Australia	219	11th August 2025 – 21st August 2026	7	8	10	9
6	France	209	12th July 2025 – 16th October 2026	12	26	10	5
7	Spain	193	12th July 2025 – 16th October 2026	3	23	8	7
8	Canada	163	11th July 2025 – 6th June 2026	3	3	3	7
9	Switzerland	156	7th July 2025 – 17th October 2026	3	4	4	16
10	New Zealand	146	10th February 2026 – 3rd April 2026	2	2	5	6

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
10041	3rd October 2025	12:13:36 UTC	duncan	climber	George Graham McPhee	country_id
Before `None` After `1`
10042	3rd October 2025	12:13:36 UTC	duncan	climber	George Graham McPhee	nationality
Before `None` After `GB`
10043	3rd October 2025	12:13:36 UTC	duncan	climber	George Graham McPhee	gender
Before `None` After `false`
10044	3rd October 2025	12:13:36 UTC	duncan	climber	George Graham McPhee	climber_name
Before `None` After `George Graham McPhee`
10045	3rd October 2025	12:11:20 UTC	duncan	ascent	Colin Kirkus's ascent of Great Slab	notes_pretty
Before <p><a href="/climber/2522/albert-hargreaves">Albert Hargreaves</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>To take out 130 feet of line on to this entirely virgin face up a steep, loose and grassy wall, tremendously exposed, with no knowledge of what difficulties lay in the 600 odd feet above, was surely mountaineering courage of the highest order. A n d it must have required the utmost skill and route-finding ability, as well as courage, to finish that climb. Despite the many more difficult shorter routes that have been done " unseen " I think this expedition will stand out in the history of British rock-climbing as a most important event. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 170 <a href="https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf">https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf</a></p> After <p><a href="/climber/2522/albert-hargreaves">Albert Hargreaves</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>To take out 130 feet of line on to this entirely virgin face up a steep, loose and grassy wall, tremendously exposed, with no knowledge of what difficulties lay in the 600 odd feet above, was surely mountaineering courage of the highest order. And it must have required the utmost skill and route-finding ability, as well as courage, to finish that climb. Despite the many more difficult shorter routes that have been done "unseen" I think this expedition will stand out in the history of British rock-climbing as a most important event. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 170 <a href="https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf">https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf</a></p>
10046	3rd October 2025	12:11:20 UTC	duncan	ascent	Colin Kirkus's ascent of Great Slab	notes
Before [Albert Hargreaves](/climber/2522/albert-hargreaves): > To take out 130 feet of line on to this entirely virgin face up a steep, loose and grassy wall, tremendously exposed, with no knowledge of what difficulties lay in the 600 odd feet above, was surely mountaineering courage of the highest order. A n d it must have required the utmost skill and route-finding ability, as well as courage, to finish that climb. Despite the many more difficult shorter routes that have been done " unseen " I think this expedition will stand out in the history of British rock-climbing as a most important event. [1] ### References [1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 170 [https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf](https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf) After [Albert Hargreaves](/climber/2522/albert-hargreaves): > To take out 130 feet of line on to this entirely virgin face up a steep, loose and grassy wall, tremendously exposed, with no knowledge of what difficulties lay in the 600 odd feet above, was surely mountaineering courage of the highest order. And it must have required the utmost skill and route-finding ability, as well as courage, to finish that climb. Despite the many more difficult shorter routes that have been done "unseen" I think this expedition will stand out in the history of British rock-climbing as a most important event. [1] ### References [1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 170 [https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf](https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ [Albert Hargreaves](/climber/2522/albert-hargreaves): -> To take out 130 feet of line on to this entirely virgin face up a steep, loose and grassy wall, tremendously exposed, with no knowledge of what difficulties lay in the 600 odd feet above, was surely mountaineering courage of the highest order. A n d it must have required the utmost skill and route-finding ability, as well as courage, to finish that climb. Despite the many more difficult shorter routes that have been done " unseen " I think this expedition will stand out in the history of British rock-climbing as a most important event. [1] +> To take out 130 feet of line on to this entirely virgin face up a steep, loose and grassy wall, tremendously exposed, with no knowledge of what difficulties lay in the 600 odd feet above, was surely mountaineering courage of the highest order. And it must have required the utmost skill and route-finding ability, as well as courage, to finish that climb. Despite the many more difficult shorter routes that have been done "unseen" I think this expedition will stand out in the history of British rock-climbing as a most important event. [1] ### References
10047	3rd October 2025	11:57:36 UTC	duncan	climb	West Indian Face	notes_pretty
Before <blockquote> <p>A line has been led from the peg on <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a> to the good foothold on <a href="/climb/1008/the-rite-of-spring">The Rite of Spring</a> and then on to finish up <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. On the only ascent to date the leader considered a crucial runner on The Indian Face to have been enhanced and he later filled the placement. Thus the route has not been climbed without this runner, though of course The Indian Face has.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 185. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.</p> After <blockquote> <p>A line has been led from the peg on <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a> to the good foothold on <a href="/climb/1008/the-rite-of-spring">The Rite of Spring</a> and then on to finish up <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. On the only ascent to date the leader considered a crucial runner on The Indian Face to have been enhanced and he later filled the placement. Thus the route has not been climbed without this runner, though of course The Indian Face has.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 68. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.</p>
10048	3rd October 2025	11:57:36 UTC	duncan	climb	West Indian Face	notes
Before >A line has been led from the peg on [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream) to the good foothold on [The Rite of Spring](/climb/1008/the-rite-of-spring) and then on to finish up [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). On the only ascent to date the leader considered a crucial runner on The Indian Face to have been enhanced and he later filled the placement. Thus the route has not been climbed without this runner, though of course The Indian Face has. ### References [1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 185. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club. After >A line has been led from the peg on [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream) to the good foothold on [The Rite of Spring](/climb/1008/the-rite-of-spring) and then on to finish up [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). On the only ascent to date the leader considered a crucial runner on The Indian Face to have been enhanced and he later filled the placement. Thus the route has not been climbed without this runner, though of course The Indian Face has. ### References [1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 68. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club. Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -2,4 +2,4 @@ ### References -[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 185. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club. +[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 68. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.`
10049	3rd October 2025	11:56:30 UTC	duncan	climb	West Indian Face	notes_pretty
Before <blockquote> <p>A line has been led from the peg on <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a> to the good foothold on <a href="/climb/1008/the-rite-of-spring">The Rite of Spring</a> and then on to finish up <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. On the only ascent to date the leader considered a crucial runner on The Indian Face to have been enhanced and he later filled the placement. Thus the route has not been climbed without this runner, though of course The Indian Face has.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p> After <blockquote> <p>A line has been led from the peg on <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a> to the good foothold on <a href="/climb/1008/the-rite-of-spring">The Rite of Spring</a> and then on to finish up <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. On the only ascent to date the leader considered a crucial runner on The Indian Face to have been enhanced and he later filled the placement. Thus the route has not been climbed without this runner, though of course The Indian Face has.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 185. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.</p>
10050	3rd October 2025	11:56:30 UTC	duncan	climb	West Indian Face	notes
Before >A line has been led from the peg on [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream) to the good foothold on [The Rite of Spring](/climb/1008/the-rite-of-spring) and then on to finish up [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). On the only ascent to date the leader considered a crucial runner on The Indian Face to have been enhanced and he later filled the placement. Thus the route has not been climbed without this runner, though of course The Indian Face has. ### References [1] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon After >A line has been led from the peg on [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream) to the good foothold on [The Rite of Spring](/climb/1008/the-rite-of-spring) and then on to finish up [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). On the only ascent to date the leader considered a crucial runner on The Indian Face to have been enhanced and he later filled the placement. Thus the route has not been climbed without this runner, though of course The Indian Face has. ### References [1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 185. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club. Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -2,4 +2,4 @@ ### References -[1] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon +[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 185. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.`
10051	3rd October 2025	07:54:41 UTC	duncan	media	https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/	missing_right_to_reproduce
Before `None` After `false`
10052	3rd October 2025	07:54:41 UTC	duncan	media	https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/	embed_code
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10053	3rd October 2025	07:54:41 UTC	duncan	media	https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/	url
Before `None` After `https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/`
10054	3rd October 2025	07:54:41 UTC	duncan	climber	Yvon Chouinard	notes_pretty
Before <p>Yvon chouinard is an American climber who was extremely influential in the 1960s and 1970s. He founded Chouinard Equipment and ran the business together with <a href="/climber/1256/tom-frost">Tom Frost</a>.</p> <p>Yvon is credited with kick starting the move to clean climbing (i.e. without the use of pitons which damage the rock) in the US in the early 70s, most notably through the publication of the following essay in the Chouinard 1972 catalogue. This is particularly notable as pitons where one of their best selling items at the time.</p> <blockquote> <p>The 1960s marked an awakening in American climbing characterized by a vast increase in climbing activity, closely paralleled by a corresponding improvement in technique and equipment. Significant climbing advances have resulted. On the other hand, this combination is producing a serious problem—deterioration of the climbing environment. The deterioration is twofold, involving the physical aspect of the mountains and the moral integrity of the climbers.</p> <p>No longer can we assume the earth’s resources are limitless; that there are ranges of unclimbed peaks extending endlessly beyond the horizon. Mountains are finite, and despite their massive appearance, they are fragile.</p> <p>Although alpine tundra, meadows, trees, lakes and streams are all endangered, our primary concern here is with deterioration of the rock itself. Granite is delicate and soft—much softer than the alloy steel pitons being hammered into it. On popular routes in Yosemite and elsewhere the cracks are degenerating into series of piton holes. Flakes and slabs are being pried loose and broken off as a result of repeated placement and removal of hard pitons.</p> <p>We can offer a few immediate solutions. Stay off climbs you do not intend to finish. Don’t climb up to Sickle Ledge unless you plan to do the entire Nose. Do not use artificial aid on free climbs. But most of all, start using chocks. Chocks and runners are not damaging to the rock and provide a pleasurable and practical alternative to pitons on most free, and many artificial climbs. Do not use pitons on established clean routes. Where a piton is necessary a fixed piton should be considered and documented in local guide books. Routes of 5.7 difficulty were climbed 60 years ago in England. Today the footholds on these routes are well polished, but because pitons have not been used the protection cracks are still in mint condition. We urge to your attention <a href="/climber/1684/doug-robinson">Doug Robinson's</a> excellent treatise on the joys and ways of pitonless climbing. It was written especially for this catalog.</p> <p>Equally serious is a moral deterioration. Armed with ever more advanced gadgetry and techniques the style of technical climbing is gradually becoming so degraded that elements vital to the climbing experience—adventure and appreciation of the mountain environment itself—are being submerged. Siege tactics, bolt ladders, bat hooks, bash chocks, detailed topos and equipment lists, plus a guaranteed rescue diminish rather than enhance a climb. Even now existing techniques and technology are so powerful that almost any climb imaginable can be realized, and the fear of the unknown reduced to rote exercise.</p> <p>Mad bolters are among the worst offenders of the alpine environment. Young climbers must learn that bolting is done as a substitute for climbing. Guides, climbing schools and established climbers have a heavy responsibility here.</p> <p>We believe the only way to ensure the climbing experience for ourselves and future generations is to preserve (1) the vertical wilderness, and (2) the adventure inherent in the experience. Really, the only insurance to guarantee this adventure and the safest insurance to maintain it is exercise of moral restraint and individual responsibility.</p> <p>Thus, it is the style of the climb, not attainment of the summit, which is the measure of personal success. Traditionally stated, each of us must consider whether the end is more important than the means. Given the vital importance of style we suggest that the keynote is simplicity. The fewer gadgets between the climber and the climb, the greater is the chance to attain the desired communication with oneself—and nature.</p> <p>The equipment offered in this catalog attempts to support this ethic. Basically multi-purpose, the articles are carefully designed to serve the overall needs of the climber. More than mere aids, they are conceived to be used in meaningful combination with accepted technique to elevate the individual to a rewarding alpine experience.</p> <p>As we enter this new era of mountaineering, re-examine your motives for climbing. Employ restraint and good judgment in the use of Chouinard equipment. Remember the rock, the other climber—climb clean. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>Chouinard started the clothing brand <a href="https://eu.patagonia.com/gb/en/home/">Patagonia</a> in 1973 and gradually started spending more of his energy there. In 1989 Chouinard equipment ran in to trouble when several lawsuits were filed against the firm due to improper use of their equipment [3]. The firm filed for bankruptcy before the assets were purchased by a group of former employees under the newly formed company Black Diamond.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/</a></p> <p>[2] A Word..., <a href="/climber/1256/tom-frost">Tom Frost</a> and Yvon Chouinard, 1972 <a href="https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html">https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html">https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html</a></p> After <p>Yvon Chouinard is an American climber who was extremely influential in the 1960s and 1970s. He founded Chouinard Equipment and ran the business together with <a href="/climber/1256/tom-frost">Tom Frost</a>.</p> <p>Yvon is credited with kick-starting the move to clean climbing (i.e. without the use of pitons which damage the rock) in the US in the early 70s, most notably through the publication of the following essay in the Chouinard 1972 catalogue. This is particularly notable as pitons where one of their best selling items at the time.</p> <blockquote> <p>The 1960s marked an awakening in American climbing characterized by a vast increase in climbing activity, closely paralleled by a corresponding improvement in technique and equipment. Significant climbing advances have resulted. On the other hand, this combination is producing a serious problem—deterioration of the climbing environment. The deterioration is twofold, involving the physical aspect of the mountains and the moral integrity of the climbers.</p> <p>No longer can we assume the earth’s resources are limitless; that there are ranges of unclimbed peaks extending endlessly beyond the horizon. Mountains are finite, and despite their massive appearance, they are fragile.</p> <p>Although alpine tundra, meadows, trees, lakes and streams are all endangered, our primary concern here is with deterioration of the rock itself. Granite is delicate and soft—much softer than the alloy steel pitons being hammered into it. On popular routes in Yosemite and elsewhere the cracks are degenerating into series of piton holes. Flakes and slabs are being pried loose and broken off as a result of repeated placement and removal of hard pitons.</p> <p>We can offer a few immediate solutions. Stay off climbs you do not intend to finish. Don’t climb up to Sickle Ledge unless you plan to do the entire Nose. Do not use artificial aid on free climbs. But most of all, start using chocks. Chocks and runners are not damaging to the rock and provide a pleasurable and practical alternative to pitons on most free, and many artificial climbs. Do not use pitons on established clean routes. Where a piton is necessary a fixed piton should be considered and documented in local guide books. Routes of 5.7 difficulty were climbed 60 years ago in England. Today the footholds on these routes are well polished, but because pitons have not been used the protection cracks are still in mint condition. We urge to your attention <a href="/climber/1684/doug-robinson">Doug Robinson's</a> excellent treatise on the joys and ways of pitonless climbing. It was written especially for this catalog.</p> <p>Equally serious is a moral deterioration. Armed with ever more advanced gadgetry and techniques the style of technical climbing is gradually becoming so degraded that elements vital to the climbing experience—adventure and appreciation of the mountain environment itself—are being submerged. Siege tactics, bolt ladders, bat hooks, bash chocks, detailed topos and equipment lists, plus a guaranteed rescue diminish rather than enhance a climb. Even now existing techniques and technology are so powerful that almost any climb imaginable can be realized, and the fear of the unknown reduced to rote exercise.</p> <p>Mad bolters are among the worst offenders of the alpine environment. Young climbers must learn that bolting is done as a substitute for climbing. Guides, climbing schools and established climbers have a heavy responsibility here.</p> <p>We believe the only way to ensure the climbing experience for ourselves and future generations is to preserve (1) the vertical wilderness, and (2) the adventure inherent in the experience. Really, the only insurance to guarantee this adventure and the safest insurance to maintain it is exercise of moral restraint and individual responsibility.</p> <p>Thus, it is the style of the climb, not attainment of the summit, which is the measure of personal success. Traditionally stated, each of us must consider whether the end is more important than the means. Given the vital importance of style we suggest that the keynote is simplicity. The fewer gadgets between the climber and the climb, the greater is the chance to attain the desired communication with oneself—and nature.</p> <p>The equipment offered in this catalog attempts to support this ethic. Basically multi-purpose, the articles are carefully designed to serve the overall needs of the climber. More than mere aids, they are conceived to be used in meaningful combination with accepted technique to elevate the individual to a rewarding alpine experience.</p> <p>As we enter this new era of mountaineering, re-examine your motives for climbing. Employ restraint and good judgment in the use of Chouinard equipment. Remember the rock, the other climber—climb clean. [2]</p> </blockquote> <p>Chouinard started the clothing brand <a href="https://eu.patagonia.com/gb/en/home/">Patagonia</a> in 1973 and gradually started spending more of his energy there. In 1989 Chouinard equipment ran in to trouble when several lawsuits were filed against the firm due to improper use of their equipment [3]. The firm filed for bankruptcy before the assets were purchased by a group of former employees under the newly formed company Black Diamond.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/</a></p> <p>[2] A Word..., <a href="/climber/1256/tom-frost">Tom Frost</a> and Yvon Chouinard, 1972 <a href="https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html">https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html">https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html</a></p>
10055	3rd October 2025	07:54:41 UTC	duncan	climber	Yvon Chouinard	notes
Before Yvon chouinard is an American climber who was extremely influential in the 1960s and 1970s. He founded Chouinard Equipment and ran the business together with [Tom Frost](/climber/1256/tom-frost). Yvon is credited with kick starting the move to clean climbing (i.e. without the use of pitons which damage the rock) in the US in the early 70s, most notably through the publication of the following essay in the Chouinard 1972 catalogue. This is particularly notable as pitons where one of their best selling items at the time. > The 1960s marked an awakening in American climbing characterized by a vast increase in climbing activity, closely paralleled by a corresponding improvement in technique and equipment. Significant climbing advances have resulted. On the other hand, this combination is producing a serious problem—deterioration of the climbing environment. The deterioration is twofold, involving the physical aspect of the mountains and the moral integrity of the climbers. > No longer can we assume the earth’s resources are limitless; that there are ranges of unclimbed peaks extending endlessly beyond the horizon. Mountains are finite, and despite their massive appearance, they are fragile. > Although alpine tundra, meadows, trees, lakes and streams are all endangered, our primary concern here is with deterioration of the rock itself. Granite is delicate and soft—much softer than the alloy steel pitons being hammered into it. On popular routes in Yosemite and elsewhere the cracks are degenerating into series of piton holes. Flakes and slabs are being pried loose and broken off as a result of repeated placement and removal of hard pitons. > We can offer a few immediate solutions. Stay off climbs you do not intend to finish. Don’t climb up to Sickle Ledge unless you plan to do the entire Nose. Do not use artificial aid on free climbs. But most of all, start using chocks. Chocks and runners are not damaging to the rock and provide a pleasurable and practical alternative to pitons on most free, and many artificial climbs. Do not use pitons on established clean routes. Where a piton is necessary a fixed piton should be considered and documented in local guide books. Routes of 5.7 difficulty were climbed 60 years ago in England. Today the footholds on these routes are well polished, but because pitons have not been used the protection cracks are still in mint condition. We urge to your attention [Doug Robinson's](/climber/1684/doug-robinson) excellent treatise on the joys and ways of pitonless climbing. It was written especially for this catalog. > Equally serious is a moral deterioration. Armed with ever more advanced gadgetry and techniques the style of technical climbing is gradually becoming so degraded that elements vital to the climbing experience—adventure and appreciation of the mountain environment itself—are being submerged. Siege tactics, bolt ladders, bat hooks, bash chocks, detailed topos and equipment lists, plus a guaranteed rescue diminish rather than enhance a climb. Even now existing techniques and technology are so powerful that almost any climb imaginable can be realized, and the fear of the unknown reduced to rote exercise. > Mad bolters are among the worst offenders of the alpine environment. Young climbers must learn that bolting is done as a substitute for climbing. Guides, climbing schools and established climbers have a heavy responsibility here. > We believe the only way to ensure the climbing experience for ourselves and future generations is to preserve (1) the vertical wilderness, and (2) the adventure inherent in the experience. Really, the only insurance to guarantee this adventure and the safest insurance to maintain it is exercise of moral restraint and individual responsibility. > Thus, it is the style of the climb, not attainment of the summit, which is the measure of personal success. Traditionally stated, each of us must consider whether the end is more important than the means. Given the vital importance of style we suggest that the keynote is simplicity. The fewer gadgets between the climber and the climb, the greater is the chance to attain the desired communication with oneself—and nature. > The equipment offered in this catalog attempts to support this ethic. Basically multi-purpose, the articles are carefully designed to serve the overall needs of the climber. More than mere aids, they are conceived to be used in meaningful combination with accepted technique to elevate the individual to a rewarding alpine experience. > As we enter this new era of mountaineering, re-examine your motives for climbing. Employ restraint and good judgment in the use of Chouinard equipment. Remember the rock, the other climber—climb clean. [2] Chouinard started the clothing brand [Patagonia](https://eu.patagonia.com/gb/en/home/) in 1973 and gradually started spending more of his energy there. In 1989 Chouinard equipment ran in to trouble when several lawsuits were filed against the firm due to improper use of their equipment [3]. The firm filed for bankruptcy before the assets were purchased by a group of former employees under the newly formed company Black Diamond. ### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/) [2] A Word..., [Tom Frost](/climber/1256/tom-frost) and Yvon Chouinard, 1972 [https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html](https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html) [3] [https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html](https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html) After Yvon Chouinard is an American climber who was extremely influential in the 1960s and 1970s. He founded Chouinard Equipment and ran the business together with [Tom Frost](/climber/1256/tom-frost). Yvon is credited with kick-starting the move to clean climbing (i.e. without the use of pitons which damage the rock) in the US in the early 70s, most notably through the publication of the following essay in the Chouinard 1972 catalogue. This is particularly notable as pitons where one of their best selling items at the time. > The 1960s marked an awakening in American climbing characterized by a vast increase in climbing activity, closely paralleled by a corresponding improvement in technique and equipment. Significant climbing advances have resulted. On the other hand, this combination is producing a serious problem—deterioration of the climbing environment. The deterioration is twofold, involving the physical aspect of the mountains and the moral integrity of the climbers. > No longer can we assume the earth’s resources are limitless; that there are ranges of unclimbed peaks extending endlessly beyond the horizon. Mountains are finite, and despite their massive appearance, they are fragile. > Although alpine tundra, meadows, trees, lakes and streams are all endangered, our primary concern here is with deterioration of the rock itself. Granite is delicate and soft—much softer than the alloy steel pitons being hammered into it. On popular routes in Yosemite and elsewhere the cracks are degenerating into series of piton holes. Flakes and slabs are being pried loose and broken off as a result of repeated placement and removal of hard pitons. > We can offer a few immediate solutions. Stay off climbs you do not intend to finish. Don’t climb up to Sickle Ledge unless you plan to do the entire Nose. Do not use artificial aid on free climbs. But most of all, start using chocks. Chocks and runners are not damaging to the rock and provide a pleasurable and practical alternative to pitons on most free, and many artificial climbs. Do not use pitons on established clean routes. Where a piton is necessary a fixed piton should be considered and documented in local guide books. Routes of 5.7 difficulty were climbed 60 years ago in England. Today the footholds on these routes are well polished, but because pitons have not been used the protection cracks are still in mint condition. We urge to your attention [Doug Robinson's](/climber/1684/doug-robinson) excellent treatise on the joys and ways of pitonless climbing. It was written especially for this catalog. > Equally serious is a moral deterioration. Armed with ever more advanced gadgetry and techniques the style of technical climbing is gradually becoming so degraded that elements vital to the climbing experience—adventure and appreciation of the mountain environment itself—are being submerged. Siege tactics, bolt ladders, bat hooks, bash chocks, detailed topos and equipment lists, plus a guaranteed rescue diminish rather than enhance a climb. Even now existing techniques and technology are so powerful that almost any climb imaginable can be realized, and the fear of the unknown reduced to rote exercise. > Mad bolters are among the worst offenders of the alpine environment. Young climbers must learn that bolting is done as a substitute for climbing. Guides, climbing schools and established climbers have a heavy responsibility here. > We believe the only way to ensure the climbing experience for ourselves and future generations is to preserve (1) the vertical wilderness, and (2) the adventure inherent in the experience. Really, the only insurance to guarantee this adventure and the safest insurance to maintain it is exercise of moral restraint and individual responsibility. > Thus, it is the style of the climb, not attainment of the summit, which is the measure of personal success. Traditionally stated, each of us must consider whether the end is more important than the means. Given the vital importance of style we suggest that the keynote is simplicity. The fewer gadgets between the climber and the climb, the greater is the chance to attain the desired communication with oneself—and nature. > The equipment offered in this catalog attempts to support this ethic. Basically multi-purpose, the articles are carefully designed to serve the overall needs of the climber. More than mere aids, they are conceived to be used in meaningful combination with accepted technique to elevate the individual to a rewarding alpine experience. > As we enter this new era of mountaineering, re-examine your motives for climbing. Employ restraint and good judgment in the use of Chouinard equipment. Remember the rock, the other climber—climb clean. [2] Chouinard started the clothing brand [Patagonia](https://eu.patagonia.com/gb/en/home/) in 1973 and gradually started spending more of his energy there. In 1989 Chouinard equipment ran in to trouble when several lawsuits were filed against the firm due to improper use of their equipment [3]. The firm filed for bankruptcy before the assets were purchased by a group of former employees under the newly formed company Black Diamond. ### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/) [2] A Word..., [Tom Frost](/climber/1256/tom-frost) and Yvon Chouinard, 1972 [https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html](https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html) [3] [https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html](https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ -Yvon chouinard is an American climber who was extremely influential in the 1960s and 1970s. He founded Chouinard Equipment and ran the business together with [Tom Frost](/climber/1256/tom-frost). +Yvon Chouinard is an American climber who was extremely influential in the 1960s and 1970s. He founded Chouinard Equipment and ran the business together with [Tom Frost](/climber/1256/tom-frost). -Yvon is credited with kick starting the move to clean climbing (i.e. without the use of pitons which damage the rock) in the US in the early 70s, most notably through the publication of the following essay in the Chouinard 1972 catalogue. This is particularly notable as pitons where one of their best selling items at the time. +Yvon is credited with kick-starting the move to clean climbing (i.e. without the use of pitons which damage the rock) in the US in the early 70s, most notably through the publication of the following essay in the Chouinard 1972 catalogue. This is particularly notable as pitons where one of their best selling items at the time. > The 1960s marked an awakening in American climbing characterized by a vast increase in climbing activity, closely paralleled by a corresponding improvement in technique and equipment. Significant climbing advances have resulted. On the other hand, this combination is producing a serious problem—deterioration of the climbing environment. The deterioration is twofold, involving the physical aspect of the mountains and the moral integrity of the climbers.
10056	2nd October 2025	23:07:35 UTC	duncan	ascent	Eric Jones's ascent of The Mostest	First Free Ascent
Before `None` After `1`
10057	2nd October 2025	23:07:25 UTC	duncan	ascent	Eric Jones's ascent of The Mostest	ascent_dt_end
Before `None` After `1969-01-01`
10058	2nd October 2025	23:07:25 UTC	duncan	ascent	Eric Jones's ascent of The Mostest	ascent_dt_start
Before `None` After `1968-01-01`
10059	2nd October 2025	23:07:25 UTC	duncan	ascent	Eric Jones's ascent of The Mostest	ascent_type_id
Before `None` After `1`
10060	2nd October 2025	23:07:25 UTC	duncan	ascent	Eric Jones's ascent of The Mostest	ascent_style_id
Before `None` After `3`

Before

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1

Before

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GB

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false

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George Graham McPhee

Before

<p><a href="/climber/2522/albert-hargreaves">Albert Hargreaves</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>To take out 130 feet of line on to this entirely virgin face up a steep, loose and grassy wall, tremendously exposed, with no knowledge of what difficulties lay in the 600 odd feet above, was surely mountaineering courage of the highest order. A n d it must have required the utmost skill and route-finding ability, as well as courage, to finish that climb. Despite the many more difficult shorter routes that have been done " unseen " I think this expedition will stand out in the history of British rock-climbing as a most important event. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 170 <a href="https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf">https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf</a></p>

After

<p><a href="/climber/2522/albert-hargreaves">Albert Hargreaves</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>To take out 130 feet of line on to this entirely virgin face up a steep, loose and grassy wall, tremendously exposed, with no knowledge of what difficulties lay in the 600 odd feet above, was surely mountaineering courage of the highest order. And it must have required the utmost skill and route-finding ability, as well as courage, to finish that climb. Despite the many more difficult shorter routes that have been done "unseen" I think this expedition will stand out in the history of British rock-climbing as a most important event. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 170 <a href="https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf">https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf</a></p>

Before

[Albert Hargreaves](/climber/2522/albert-hargreaves):

> To take out 130 feet of line on to this entirely virgin face up a steep, loose and grassy wall, tremendously exposed, with no knowledge of what difficulties lay in the 600 odd feet above, was surely mountaineering courage of the highest order. A n d it must have required the utmost skill and route-finding ability, as well as courage, to finish that climb. Despite the many more difficult shorter routes that have been done " unseen " I think this expedition will stand out in the history of British rock-climbing as a most important event. [1]

### References

[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 170 [https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf](https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf)

After

[Albert Hargreaves](/climber/2522/albert-hargreaves):

> To take out 130 feet of line on to this entirely virgin face up a steep, loose and grassy wall, tremendously exposed, with no knowledge of what difficulties lay in the 600 odd feet above, was surely mountaineering courage of the highest order. And it must have required the utmost skill and route-finding ability, as well as courage, to finish that climb. Despite the many more difficult shorter routes that have been done "unseen" I think this expedition will stand out in the history of British rock-climbing as a most important event. [1]

### References

[1] Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 170 [https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf](https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@

 [Albert Hargreaves](/climber/2522/albert-hargreaves):

 

-> To take out 130 feet of line on to this entirely virgin face up a steep, loose and grassy wall, tremendously exposed, with no knowledge of what difficulties lay in the 600 odd feet above, was surely mountaineering courage of the highest order. A n d it must have required the utmost skill and route-finding ability, as well as courage, to finish that climb. Despite the many more difficult shorter routes that have been done " unseen " I think this expedition will stand out in the history of British rock-climbing as a most important event. [1]

+> To take out 130 feet of line on to this entirely virgin face up a steep, loose and grassy wall, tremendously exposed, with no knowledge of what difficulties lay in the 600 odd feet above, was surely mountaineering courage of the highest order. And it must have required the utmost skill and route-finding ability, as well as courage, to finish that climb. Despite the many more difficult shorter routes that have been done "unseen" I think this expedition will stand out in the history of British rock-climbing as a most important event. [1]

 

 ### References

Before

<blockquote>
<p>A line has been led from the peg on <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a> to the good foothold on <a href="/climb/1008/the-rite-of-spring">The Rite of Spring</a> and then on to finish up <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. On the only ascent to date the leader considered a crucial runner on The Indian Face to have been enhanced and he later filled the placement. Thus the route has not been climbed without this runner, though of course The Indian Face has.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 185. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.</p>

After

<blockquote>
<p>A line has been led from the peg on <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a> to the good foothold on <a href="/climb/1008/the-rite-of-spring">The Rite of Spring</a> and then on to finish up <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. On the only ascent to date the leader considered a crucial runner on The Indian Face to have been enhanced and he later filled the placement. Thus the route has not been climbed without this runner, though of course The Indian Face has.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 68. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.</p>

Before

>A line has been led from the peg on [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream) to the good foothold on [The Rite of Spring](/climb/1008/the-rite-of-spring) and then on to finish up [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). On the only ascent to date the leader considered a crucial runner on The Indian Face to have been enhanced and he later filled the placement. Thus the route has not been climbed without this runner, though of course The Indian Face has.

### References

[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 185. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.

After

>A line has been led from the peg on [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream) to the good foothold on [The Rite of Spring](/climb/1008/the-rite-of-spring) and then on to finish up [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). On the only ascent to date the leader considered a crucial runner on The Indian Face to have been enhanced and he later filled the placement. Thus the route has not been climbed without this runner, though of course The Indian Face has.

### References

[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 68. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -2,4 +2,4 @@

 

 ### References

 

-[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 185. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.
+[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 68. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.

Before

<blockquote>
<p>A line has been led from the peg on <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a> to the good foothold on <a href="/climb/1008/the-rite-of-spring">The Rite of Spring</a> and then on to finish up <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. On the only ascent to date the leader considered a crucial runner on The Indian Face to have been enhanced and he later filled the placement. Thus the route has not been climbed without this runner, though of course The Indian Face has.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>

After

<blockquote>
<p>A line has been led from the peg on <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a> to the good foothold on <a href="/climb/1008/the-rite-of-spring">The Rite of Spring</a> and then on to finish up <a href="/climb/601/indian-face">Indian Face</a>. On the only ascent to date the leader considered a crucial runner on The Indian Face to have been enhanced and he later filled the placement. Thus the route has not been climbed without this runner, though of course The Indian Face has.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 185. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.</p>

Before

>A line has been led from the peg on [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream) to the good foothold on [The Rite of Spring](/climb/1008/the-rite-of-spring) and then on to finish up [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). On the only ascent to date the leader considered a crucial runner on The Indian Face to have been enhanced and he later filled the placement. Thus the route has not been climbed without this runner, though of course The Indian Face has.

### References

[1] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon

After

>A line has been led from the peg on [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream) to the good foothold on [The Rite of Spring](/climb/1008/the-rite-of-spring) and then on to finish up [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face). On the only ascent to date the leader considered a crucial runner on The Indian Face to have been enhanced and he later filled the placement. Thus the route has not been climbed without this runner, though of course The Indian Face has.

### References

[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 185. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -2,4 +2,4 @@

 

 ### References

 

-[1] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon
+[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 185. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.

Before

None

After

false

Before

None

After


<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;"> View this post on Instagram</div></div><div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"><div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"></div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"></div></div><div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; 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overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>

Before

None

After

https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/

Before

<p>Yvon chouinard is an American climber who was extremely influential in the 1960s and 1970s. He founded Chouinard Equipment and ran the business together with <a href="/climber/1256/tom-frost">Tom Frost</a>.</p>
<p>Yvon is credited with kick starting the move to clean climbing (i.e. without the use of pitons which damage the rock) in the US in the early 70s, most notably through the publication of the following essay in the Chouinard 1972 catalogue. This is particularly notable as pitons where one of their best selling items at the time.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The 1960s marked an awakening in American climbing characterized by a vast increase in climbing activity, closely paralleled by a corresponding improvement in technique and equipment. Significant climbing advances have resulted. On the other hand, this combination is producing a serious problem—deterioration of the climbing environment. The deterioration is twofold, involving the physical aspect of the mountains and the moral integrity of the climbers.</p>
<p>No longer can we assume the earth’s resources are limitless; that there are ranges of unclimbed peaks extending endlessly beyond the horizon. Mountains are finite, and despite their massive appearance, they are fragile.</p>
<p>Although alpine tundra, meadows, trees, lakes and streams are all endangered, our primary concern here is with deterioration of the rock itself. Granite is delicate and soft—much softer than the alloy steel pitons being hammered into it. On popular routes in Yosemite and elsewhere the cracks are degenerating into series of piton holes. Flakes and slabs are being pried loose and broken off as a result of repeated placement and removal of hard pitons.</p>
<p>We can offer a few immediate solutions. Stay off climbs you do not intend to finish. Don’t climb up to Sickle Ledge unless you plan to do the entire Nose. Do not use artificial aid on free climbs. But most of all, start using chocks. Chocks and runners are not damaging to the rock and provide a pleasurable and practical alternative to pitons on most free, and many artificial climbs. Do not use pitons on established clean routes. Where a piton is necessary a fixed piton should be considered and documented in local guide books. Routes of 5.7 difficulty were climbed 60 years ago in England. Today the footholds on these routes are well polished, but because pitons have not been used the protection cracks are still in mint condition. We urge to your attention <a href="/climber/1684/doug-robinson">Doug Robinson's</a> excellent treatise on the joys and ways of pitonless climbing. It was written especially for this catalog.</p>
<p>Equally serious is a moral deterioration. Armed with ever more advanced gadgetry and techniques the style of technical climbing is gradually becoming so degraded that elements vital to the climbing experience—adventure and appreciation of the mountain environment itself—are being submerged. Siege tactics, bolt ladders, bat hooks, bash chocks, detailed topos and equipment lists, plus a guaranteed rescue diminish rather than enhance a climb. Even now existing techniques and technology are so powerful that almost any climb imaginable can be realized, and the fear of the unknown reduced to rote exercise.</p>
<p>Mad bolters are among the worst offenders of the alpine environment. Young climbers must learn that bolting is done as a substitute for climbing. Guides, climbing schools and established climbers have a heavy responsibility here.</p>
<p>We believe the only way to ensure the climbing experience for ourselves and future generations is to preserve (1) the vertical wilderness, and (2) the adventure inherent in the experience. Really, the only insurance to guarantee this adventure and the safest insurance to maintain it is exercise of moral restraint and individual responsibility.</p>
<p>Thus, it is the style of the climb, not attainment of the summit, which is the measure of personal success. Traditionally stated, each of us must consider whether the end is more important than the means. Given the vital importance of style we suggest that the keynote is simplicity. The fewer gadgets between the climber and the climb, the greater is the chance to attain the desired communication with oneself—and nature.</p>
<p>The equipment offered in this catalog attempts to support this ethic. Basically multi-purpose, the articles are carefully designed to serve the overall needs of the climber. More than mere aids, they are conceived to be used in meaningful combination with accepted technique to elevate the individual to a rewarding alpine experience.</p>
<p>As we enter this new era of mountaineering, re-examine your motives for climbing. Employ restraint and good judgment in the use of Chouinard equipment. Remember the rock, the other climber—climb clean. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Chouinard started the clothing brand <a href="https://eu.patagonia.com/gb/en/home/">Patagonia</a> in 1973 and gradually started spending more of his energy there. In 1989 Chouinard equipment ran in to trouble when several lawsuits were filed against the firm due to improper use of their equipment [3]. The firm filed for bankruptcy before the assets were purchased by a group of former employees under the newly formed company Black Diamond.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/</a></p>
<p>[2] A Word..., <a href="/climber/1256/tom-frost">Tom Frost</a> and Yvon Chouinard, 1972 <a href="https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html">https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html">https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html</a></p>

After

<p>Yvon Chouinard is an American climber who was extremely influential in the 1960s and 1970s. He founded Chouinard Equipment and ran the business together with <a href="/climber/1256/tom-frost">Tom Frost</a>.</p>
<p>Yvon is credited with kick-starting the move to clean climbing (i.e. without the use of pitons which damage the rock) in the US in the early 70s, most notably through the publication of the following essay in the Chouinard 1972 catalogue. This is particularly notable as pitons where one of their best selling items at the time.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The 1960s marked an awakening in American climbing characterized by a vast increase in climbing activity, closely paralleled by a corresponding improvement in technique and equipment. Significant climbing advances have resulted. On the other hand, this combination is producing a serious problem—deterioration of the climbing environment. The deterioration is twofold, involving the physical aspect of the mountains and the moral integrity of the climbers.</p>
<p>No longer can we assume the earth’s resources are limitless; that there are ranges of unclimbed peaks extending endlessly beyond the horizon. Mountains are finite, and despite their massive appearance, they are fragile.</p>
<p>Although alpine tundra, meadows, trees, lakes and streams are all endangered, our primary concern here is with deterioration of the rock itself. Granite is delicate and soft—much softer than the alloy steel pitons being hammered into it. On popular routes in Yosemite and elsewhere the cracks are degenerating into series of piton holes. Flakes and slabs are being pried loose and broken off as a result of repeated placement and removal of hard pitons.</p>
<p>We can offer a few immediate solutions. Stay off climbs you do not intend to finish. Don’t climb up to Sickle Ledge unless you plan to do the entire Nose. Do not use artificial aid on free climbs. But most of all, start using chocks. Chocks and runners are not damaging to the rock and provide a pleasurable and practical alternative to pitons on most free, and many artificial climbs. Do not use pitons on established clean routes. Where a piton is necessary a fixed piton should be considered and documented in local guide books. Routes of 5.7 difficulty were climbed 60 years ago in England. Today the footholds on these routes are well polished, but because pitons have not been used the protection cracks are still in mint condition. We urge to your attention <a href="/climber/1684/doug-robinson">Doug Robinson's</a> excellent treatise on the joys and ways of pitonless climbing. It was written especially for this catalog.</p>
<p>Equally serious is a moral deterioration. Armed with ever more advanced gadgetry and techniques the style of technical climbing is gradually becoming so degraded that elements vital to the climbing experience—adventure and appreciation of the mountain environment itself—are being submerged. Siege tactics, bolt ladders, bat hooks, bash chocks, detailed topos and equipment lists, plus a guaranteed rescue diminish rather than enhance a climb. Even now existing techniques and technology are so powerful that almost any climb imaginable can be realized, and the fear of the unknown reduced to rote exercise.</p>
<p>Mad bolters are among the worst offenders of the alpine environment. Young climbers must learn that bolting is done as a substitute for climbing. Guides, climbing schools and established climbers have a heavy responsibility here.</p>
<p>We believe the only way to ensure the climbing experience for ourselves and future generations is to preserve (1) the vertical wilderness, and (2) the adventure inherent in the experience. Really, the only insurance to guarantee this adventure and the safest insurance to maintain it is exercise of moral restraint and individual responsibility.</p>
<p>Thus, it is the style of the climb, not attainment of the summit, which is the measure of personal success. Traditionally stated, each of us must consider whether the end is more important than the means. Given the vital importance of style we suggest that the keynote is simplicity. The fewer gadgets between the climber and the climb, the greater is the chance to attain the desired communication with oneself—and nature.</p>
<p>The equipment offered in this catalog attempts to support this ethic. Basically multi-purpose, the articles are carefully designed to serve the overall needs of the climber. More than mere aids, they are conceived to be used in meaningful combination with accepted technique to elevate the individual to a rewarding alpine experience.</p>
<p>As we enter this new era of mountaineering, re-examine your motives for climbing. Employ restraint and good judgment in the use of Chouinard equipment. Remember the rock, the other climber—climb clean. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Chouinard started the clothing brand <a href="https://eu.patagonia.com/gb/en/home/">Patagonia</a> in 1973 and gradually started spending more of his energy there. In 1989 Chouinard equipment ran in to trouble when several lawsuits were filed against the firm due to improper use of their equipment [3]. The firm filed for bankruptcy before the assets were purchased by a group of former employees under the newly formed company Black Diamond.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/</a></p>
<p>[2] A Word..., <a href="/climber/1256/tom-frost">Tom Frost</a> and Yvon Chouinard, 1972 <a href="https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html">https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html">https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html</a></p>

Before

Yvon chouinard is an American climber who was extremely influential in the 1960s and 1970s. He founded Chouinard Equipment and ran the business together with [Tom Frost](/climber/1256/tom-frost).

Yvon is credited with kick starting the move to clean climbing (i.e. without the use of pitons which damage the rock) in the US in the early 70s, most notably through the publication of the following essay in the Chouinard 1972 catalogue. This is particularly notable as pitons where one of their best selling items at the time.

> The 1960s marked an awakening in American climbing characterized by a vast increase in climbing activity, closely paralleled by a corresponding improvement in technique and equipment. Significant climbing advances have resulted. On the other hand, this combination is producing a serious problem—deterioration of the climbing environment. The deterioration is twofold, involving the physical aspect of the mountains and the moral integrity of the climbers.

> No longer can we assume the earth’s resources are limitless; that there are ranges of unclimbed peaks extending endlessly beyond the horizon. Mountains are finite, and despite their massive appearance, they are fragile.

> Although alpine tundra, meadows, trees, lakes and streams are all endangered, our primary concern here is with deterioration of the rock itself. Granite is delicate and soft—much softer than the alloy steel pitons being hammered into it. On popular routes in Yosemite and elsewhere the cracks are degenerating into series of piton holes. Flakes and slabs are being pried loose and broken off as a result of repeated placement and removal of hard pitons.

> We can offer a few immediate solutions. Stay off climbs you do not intend to finish. Don’t climb up to Sickle Ledge unless you plan to do the entire Nose. Do not use artificial aid on free climbs. But most of all, start using chocks. Chocks and runners are not damaging to the rock and provide a pleasurable and practical alternative to pitons on most free, and many artificial climbs. Do not use pitons on established clean routes. Where a piton is necessary a fixed piton should be considered and documented in local guide books. Routes of 5.7 difficulty were climbed 60 years ago in England. Today the footholds on these routes are well polished, but because pitons have not been used the protection cracks are still in mint condition. We urge to your attention [Doug Robinson's](/climber/1684/doug-robinson) excellent treatise on the joys and ways of pitonless climbing. It was written especially for this catalog.

> Equally serious is a moral deterioration. Armed with ever more advanced gadgetry and techniques the style of technical climbing is gradually becoming so degraded that elements vital to the climbing experience—adventure and appreciation of the mountain environment itself—are being submerged. Siege tactics, bolt ladders, bat hooks, bash chocks, detailed topos and equipment lists, plus a guaranteed rescue diminish rather than enhance a climb. Even now existing techniques and technology are so powerful that almost any climb imaginable can be realized, and the fear of the unknown reduced to rote exercise.

> Mad bolters are among the worst offenders of the alpine environment. Young climbers must learn that bolting is done as a substitute for climbing. Guides, climbing schools and established climbers have a heavy responsibility here.

> We believe the only way to ensure the climbing experience for ourselves and future generations is to preserve (1) the vertical wilderness, and (2) the adventure inherent in the experience. Really, the only insurance to guarantee this adventure and the safest insurance to maintain it is exercise of moral restraint and individual responsibility.

> Thus, it is the style of the climb, not attainment of the summit, which is the measure of personal success. Traditionally stated, each of us must consider whether the end is more important than the means. Given the vital importance of style we suggest that the keynote is simplicity. The fewer gadgets between the climber and the climb, the greater is the chance to attain the desired communication with oneself—and nature.

> The equipment offered in this catalog attempts to support this ethic. Basically multi-purpose, the articles are carefully designed to serve the overall needs of the climber. More than mere aids, they are conceived to be used in meaningful combination with accepted technique to elevate the individual to a rewarding alpine experience.

> As we enter this new era of mountaineering, re-examine your motives for climbing. Employ restraint and good judgment in the use of Chouinard equipment. Remember the rock, the other climber—climb clean. [2]

Chouinard started the clothing brand [Patagonia](https://eu.patagonia.com/gb/en/home/) in 1973 and gradually started spending more of his energy there. In 1989 Chouinard equipment ran in to trouble when several lawsuits were filed against the firm due to improper use of their equipment [3]. The firm filed for bankruptcy before the assets were purchased by a group of former employees under the newly formed company Black Diamond.

### References

[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/)

[2] A Word..., [Tom Frost](/climber/1256/tom-frost) and Yvon Chouinard, 1972 [https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html](https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html)

[3] [https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html](https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html)

After

Yvon Chouinard is an American climber who was extremely influential in the 1960s and 1970s. He founded Chouinard Equipment and ran the business together with [Tom Frost](/climber/1256/tom-frost).

Yvon is credited with kick-starting the move to clean climbing (i.e. without the use of pitons which damage the rock) in the US in the early 70s, most notably through the publication of the following essay in the Chouinard 1972 catalogue. This is particularly notable as pitons where one of their best selling items at the time.

> The 1960s marked an awakening in American climbing characterized by a vast increase in climbing activity, closely paralleled by a corresponding improvement in technique and equipment. Significant climbing advances have resulted. On the other hand, this combination is producing a serious problem—deterioration of the climbing environment. The deterioration is twofold, involving the physical aspect of the mountains and the moral integrity of the climbers.

> No longer can we assume the earth’s resources are limitless; that there are ranges of unclimbed peaks extending endlessly beyond the horizon. Mountains are finite, and despite their massive appearance, they are fragile.

> Although alpine tundra, meadows, trees, lakes and streams are all endangered, our primary concern here is with deterioration of the rock itself. Granite is delicate and soft—much softer than the alloy steel pitons being hammered into it. On popular routes in Yosemite and elsewhere the cracks are degenerating into series of piton holes. Flakes and slabs are being pried loose and broken off as a result of repeated placement and removal of hard pitons.

> We can offer a few immediate solutions. Stay off climbs you do not intend to finish. Don’t climb up to Sickle Ledge unless you plan to do the entire Nose. Do not use artificial aid on free climbs. But most of all, start using chocks. Chocks and runners are not damaging to the rock and provide a pleasurable and practical alternative to pitons on most free, and many artificial climbs. Do not use pitons on established clean routes. Where a piton is necessary a fixed piton should be considered and documented in local guide books. Routes of 5.7 difficulty were climbed 60 years ago in England. Today the footholds on these routes are well polished, but because pitons have not been used the protection cracks are still in mint condition. We urge to your attention [Doug Robinson's](/climber/1684/doug-robinson) excellent treatise on the joys and ways of pitonless climbing. It was written especially for this catalog.

> Equally serious is a moral deterioration. Armed with ever more advanced gadgetry and techniques the style of technical climbing is gradually becoming so degraded that elements vital to the climbing experience—adventure and appreciation of the mountain environment itself—are being submerged. Siege tactics, bolt ladders, bat hooks, bash chocks, detailed topos and equipment lists, plus a guaranteed rescue diminish rather than enhance a climb. Even now existing techniques and technology are so powerful that almost any climb imaginable can be realized, and the fear of the unknown reduced to rote exercise.

> Mad bolters are among the worst offenders of the alpine environment. Young climbers must learn that bolting is done as a substitute for climbing. Guides, climbing schools and established climbers have a heavy responsibility here.

> We believe the only way to ensure the climbing experience for ourselves and future generations is to preserve (1) the vertical wilderness, and (2) the adventure inherent in the experience. Really, the only insurance to guarantee this adventure and the safest insurance to maintain it is exercise of moral restraint and individual responsibility.

> Thus, it is the style of the climb, not attainment of the summit, which is the measure of personal success. Traditionally stated, each of us must consider whether the end is more important than the means. Given the vital importance of style we suggest that the keynote is simplicity. The fewer gadgets between the climber and the climb, the greater is the chance to attain the desired communication with oneself—and nature.

> The equipment offered in this catalog attempts to support this ethic. Basically multi-purpose, the articles are carefully designed to serve the overall needs of the climber. More than mere aids, they are conceived to be used in meaningful combination with accepted technique to elevate the individual to a rewarding alpine experience.

> As we enter this new era of mountaineering, re-examine your motives for climbing. Employ restraint and good judgment in the use of Chouinard equipment. Remember the rock, the other climber—climb clean. [2]

Chouinard started the clothing brand [Patagonia](https://eu.patagonia.com/gb/en/home/) in 1973 and gradually started spending more of his energy there. In 1989 Chouinard equipment ran in to trouble when several lawsuits were filed against the firm due to improper use of their equipment [3]. The firm filed for bankruptcy before the assets were purchased by a group of former employees under the newly formed company Black Diamond.

### References

[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/)

[2] A Word..., [Tom Frost](/climber/1256/tom-frost) and Yvon Chouinard, 1972 [https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html](https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html)

[3] [https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html](https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html)

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-Yvon chouinard is an American climber who was extremely influential in the 1960s and 1970s. He founded Chouinard Equipment and ran the business together with [Tom Frost](/climber/1256/tom-frost).

+Yvon Chouinard is an American climber who was extremely influential in the 1960s and 1970s. He founded Chouinard Equipment and ran the business together with [Tom Frost](/climber/1256/tom-frost).

 

-Yvon is credited with kick starting the move to clean climbing (i.e. without the use of pitons which damage the rock) in the US in the early 70s, most notably through the publication of the following essay in the Chouinard 1972 catalogue. This is particularly notable as pitons where one of their best selling items at the time.

+Yvon is credited with kick-starting the move to clean climbing (i.e. without the use of pitons which damage the rock) in the US in the early 70s, most notably through the publication of the following essay in the Chouinard 1972 catalogue. This is particularly notable as pitons where one of their best selling items at the time.

 

 > The 1960s marked an awakening in American climbing characterized by a vast increase in climbing activity, closely paralleled by a corresponding improvement in technique and equipment. Significant climbing advances have resulted. On the other hand, this combination is producing a serious problem—deterioration of the climbing environment. The deterioration is twofold, involving the physical aspect of the mountains and the moral integrity of the climbers.

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