ben

Contributions

1 Day

0

7 Days

42

4 Weeks

42

All Time

556

Top Contributions

Name Type # Changes Last Updated First Updated
1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=im5mRJCgKV0 media 18 28th January 2025 28th January 2025
2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH7I57wVYTU media 15 13th October 2025 13th October 2025
3 Adam Ondra's ascent of Dominated ascent 13 17th March 2025 17th March 2025
4 Joe Gardner's ascent of The Young ascent 12 13th October 2025 13th October 2025
5 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU media 12 7th July 2025 7th July 2025
6 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M media 12 7th July 2025 7th July 2025
7 Jakob Schubert's ascent of Big Paw ascent 10 3rd February 2025 3rd February 2025
8 Itai Axelrad's ascent of Ode to the Modern Man ascent 10 28th January 2025 28th January 2025
9 Giuliano Cameroni's ascent of Mithril Sit ascent 10 3rd February 2025 3rd February 2025
10 https://www.instagram.com/p/DF5XgLjMdJu/ media 9 10th February 2025 10th February 2025

Recent Contributions

Date Time User Type Name Attribute
221 7th July 2025 15:48:44 ben media https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M url
Before
None
After
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M
222 7th July 2025 15:48:44 ben media https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M embed_code
Before
None
After
<div class="video-wrapper"><iframe class="embed-responsive-item" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/p9yaGXFkC8M" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
223 7th July 2025 15:48:44 ben climber John Gill notes
Before
John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard fist ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in it's own right. With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing. In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for a many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world. When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of it's time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it > I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it. ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/) [2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018. [3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU) [4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M)
After
John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in it's own right. With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing. In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for a many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world. When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of it's time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it > I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it. ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/) [2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018. [3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU) [4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M)
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard fist ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in it's own right.
+John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in it's own right.

With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing.

224 7th July 2025 15:48:44 ben climber John Gill notes_pretty
Before
<p>John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard fist ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in it's own right.</p> <p>With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing.</p> <p>In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for a many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p> <p>When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of it's time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins">Royal Robbins</a> said of it</p> <blockquote> <p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament">Pat Ament</a>, <a href="/climber/721/john-gill">John Gill</a>, <a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.</p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p>
After
<p>John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in it's own right.</p> <p>With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing.</p> <p>In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for a many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p> <p>When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of it's time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins">Royal Robbins</a> said of it</p> <blockquote> <p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament">Pat Ament</a>, <a href="/climber/721/john-gill">John Gill</a>, <a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.</p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p>
225 7th July 2025 15:48:24 ben climb Cemetery Gates climb_name
Before
Cemetry Gates
After
Cemetery Gates
226 7th July 2025 15:35:41 ben climb Lapsus notes_pretty
Before
<p>Does the start of <a href="/climb/1516/noia">Noia</a> before linking in to the hard end section of <a href="/climb/2793/anaconda">Anaconda</a> via some difficult move.</p>
After
<p>Does the start of <a href="/climb/1516/noia">Noia</a> before linking in to the hard end section of <a href="/climb/2793/anaconda">Anaconda</a> via some difficult moves.</p>
227 7th July 2025 15:35:41 ben climb Lapsus notes
Before
Does the start of [Noia](/climb/1516/noia) before linking in to the hard end section of [Anaconda](/climb/2793/anaconda) via some difficult move.
After
Does the start of [Noia](/climb/1516/noia) before linking in to the hard end section of [Anaconda](/climb/2793/anaconda) via some difficult moves.
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -1 +1 @@

-Does the start of [Noia](/climb/1516/noia) before linking in to the hard end section of [Anaconda](/climb/2793/anaconda) via some difficult move.
+Does the start of [Noia](/climb/1516/noia) before linking in to the hard end section of [Anaconda](/climb/2793/anaconda) via some difficult moves.
228 7th July 2025 15:35:17 ben climb Action Directe notes_pretty
Before
<p>Action Directe is a sport route in the <a href="/crag/9613/waldkopf">Waldkopf</a> area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by <a href="/climber/525/wolfgang-güllich">Wolfgang Güllich</a> in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world.</p> <p>The route is famous for it's brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg hence the name).</p> <p>After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece.</p> <p>The route is named after the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Action_Directe">French far-left militant group</a> of the same name.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <em>Written in Stone</em>, Nov 2023 <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?</a></p> <p>[2] <em>Written in Stone</em> interview with <a href="/climber/651/ben-cossey">Ben Cossey</a>, Nov 2023 <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Written in Stone</em> interview with <a href="/climber/472/alex-megos">Alex Megos</a>, Nov 2023 <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?</a></p>
After
<p>Action Directe is a sport route in the <a href="/crag/9613/waldkopf">Waldkopf</a> area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by <a href="/climber/525/wolfgang-güllich">Wolfgang Güllich</a> in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world.</p> <p>The route is famous for its brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg hence the name).</p> <p>After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece.</p> <p>The route is named after the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Action_Directe">French far-left militant group</a> of the same name.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <em>Written in Stone</em>, Nov 2023 <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?</a></p> <p>[2] <em>Written in Stone</em> interview with <a href="/climber/651/ben-cossey">Ben Cossey</a>, Nov 2023 <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Written in Stone</em> interview with <a href="/climber/472/alex-megos">Alex Megos</a>, Nov 2023 <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?</a></p>
229 7th July 2025 15:35:17 ben climb Action Directe notes
Before
Action Directe is a sport route in the [Waldkopf](/crag/9613/waldkopf) area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by [Wolfgang Güllich](/climber/525/wolfgang-güllich) in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world. The route is famous for it's brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg hence the name). After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece. The route is named after the [French far-left militant group](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Action_Directe) of the same name. ### References [1] *Written in Stone*, Nov 2023 [https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?) [2] *Written in Stone* interview with [Ben Cossey](/climber/651/ben-cossey), Nov 2023 [https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?) [3] *Written in Stone* interview with [Alex Megos](/climber/472/alex-megos), Nov 2023 [https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?)
After
Action Directe is a sport route in the [Waldkopf](/crag/9613/waldkopf) area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by [Wolfgang Güllich](/climber/525/wolfgang-güllich) in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world. The route is famous for its brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg hence the name). After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece. The route is named after the [French far-left militant group](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Action_Directe) of the same name. ### References [1] *Written in Stone*, Nov 2023 [https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?) [2] *Written in Stone* interview with [Ben Cossey](/climber/651/ben-cossey), Nov 2023 [https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?) [3] *Written in Stone* interview with [Alex Megos](/climber/472/alex-megos), Nov 2023 [https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?)
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@

Action Directe is a sport route in the [Waldkopf](/crag/9613/waldkopf) area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by [Wolfgang Güllich](/climber/525/wolfgang-güllich) in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world.

-The route is famous for it's brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg hence the name).
+The route is famous for its brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg hence the name).

After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece.

230 7th July 2025 15:34:54 ben media https://www.instagram.com/p/C1Zu5gONwDT/ url
Before
None
After
https://www.instagram.com/p/C1Zu5gONwDT/
231 7th July 2025 15:34:54 ben media https://www.instagram.com/p/C1Zu5gONwDT/ embed_code
Before
None
After
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232 7th July 2025 15:34:54 ben media https://www.instagram.com/p/C1Zu5gONwDT/ missing_right_to_reproduce
Before
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After
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233 7th July 2025 15:34:54 ben ascent Simon Lorenzi's ascent of Burden of Dreams notes
Before
With this ascent Simon became the first climber to climb three problems graded 9A after his subsequent ascents of [Soudain Seul](/climb/849/soudain-seul) and [Alphane](/climb/1919/alphane). Interestingly Simon used a slightly different sequence to previous ascentionits: > Instead of matching on the left hand crimp after the first move, I use a high left foot to put a drop knee. From there I cross directly to the gaston left hand and then I match on the pinch. [4] On the difficulty of the problem compared to *Soudain Seul* and *Alphane*: > I think that Burden of Dreams is hard for different reasons but not harder. The fact is that the first move is low percentage and you have just a few tries before your skin is dead. That means that the opportunities to send are quite limited before you have to rest again at least one day for your skin. [Alphane](/climb/1919/alphane) and [Soudain Seul](/climb/849/soudain-seul) are completely different; they are physically more demanding, and it feels harder to put all the moves together, but for the same length of trip you’ll have more opportunities to send once you’ve got everything dialed [sic]. [4] ### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C1Zu5gONwDT/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C1Zu5gONwDT/) [2] [https://karpollaon8a.com/burden-of-dreams-third-ascent-by-simon-sisu-lorenzi/](https://karpollaon8a.com/burden-of-dreams-third-ascent-by-simon-sisu-lorenzi/) [3] Training process for BoD youtube part 1 of 3 [https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7R-aIeZ7yS8](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7R-aIeZ7yS8) [4] [https://www.climbing.com/news/simon-lorenzi-burden-of-dreams/](https://www.climbing.com/news/simon-lorenzi-burden-of-dreams/)
After
With this ascent Simon became the first climber to climb three problems graded 9A after his subsequent ascents of [Soudain Seul](/climb/849/soudain-seul) and [Alphane](/climb/1919/alphane). Interestingly Simon used a slightly different sequence to previous ascentionists: > Instead of matching on the left hand crimp after the first move, I use a high left foot to put a drop knee. From there I cross directly to the gaston left hand and then I match on the pinch. [4] On the difficulty of the problem compared to *Soudain Seul* and *Alphane*: > I think that Burden of Dreams is hard for different reasons but not harder. The fact is that the first move is low percentage and you have just a few tries before your skin is dead. That means that the opportunities to send are quite limited before you have to rest again at least one day for your skin. [Alphane](/climb/1919/alphane) and [Soudain Seul](/climb/849/soudain-seul) are completely different; they are physically more demanding, and it feels harder to put all the moves together, but for the same length of trip you’ll have more opportunities to send once you’ve got everything dialed [sic]. [4] ### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C1Zu5gONwDT/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C1Zu5gONwDT/) [2] [https://karpollaon8a.com/burden-of-dreams-third-ascent-by-simon-sisu-lorenzi/](https://karpollaon8a.com/burden-of-dreams-third-ascent-by-simon-sisu-lorenzi/) [3] Training process for BoD youtube part 1 of 3 [https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7R-aIeZ7yS8](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7R-aIeZ7yS8) [4] [https://www.climbing.com/news/simon-lorenzi-burden-of-dreams/](https://www.climbing.com/news/simon-lorenzi-burden-of-dreams/)
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-With this ascent Simon became the first climber to climb three problems graded 9A after his subsequent ascents of [Soudain Seul](/climb/849/soudain-seul) and [Alphane](/climb/1919/alphane). Interestingly Simon used a slightly different sequence to previous ascentionits:
+With this ascent Simon became the first climber to climb three problems graded 9A after his subsequent ascents of [Soudain Seul](/climb/849/soudain-seul) and [Alphane](/climb/1919/alphane). Interestingly Simon used a slightly different sequence to previous ascentionists:

> Instead of matching on the left hand crimp after the first move, I use a high left foot to put a drop knee. From there I cross directly to the gaston left hand and then I match on the pinch. [4]

234 7th July 2025 15:34:54 ben ascent Simon Lorenzi's ascent of Burden of Dreams notes_pretty
Before
<p>With this ascent Simon became the first climber to climb three problems graded 9A after his subsequent ascents of <a href="/climb/849/soudain-seul">Soudain Seul</a> and <a href="/climb/1919/alphane">Alphane</a>. Interestingly Simon used a slightly different sequence to previous ascentionits:</p> <blockquote> <p>Instead of matching on the left hand crimp after the first move, I use a high left foot to put a drop knee. From there I cross directly to the gaston left hand and then I match on the pinch. [4]</p> </blockquote> <p>On the difficulty of the problem compared to <em>Soudain Seul</em> and <em>Alphane</em>:</p> <blockquote> <p>I think that Burden of Dreams is hard for different reasons but not harder. The fact is that the first move is low percentage and you have just a few tries before your skin is dead. That means that the opportunities to send are quite limited before you have to rest again at least one day for your skin. <a href="/climb/1919/alphane">Alphane</a> and <a href="/climb/849/soudain-seul">Soudain Seul</a> are completely different; they are physically more demanding, and it feels harder to put all the moves together, but for the same length of trip you’ll have more opportunities to send once you’ve got everything dialed [sic]. [4]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C1Zu5gONwDT/">https://www.instagram.com/p/C1Zu5gONwDT/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://karpollaon8a.com/burden-of-dreams-third-ascent-by-simon-sisu-lorenzi/">https://karpollaon8a.com/burden-of-dreams-third-ascent-by-simon-sisu-lorenzi/</a></p> <p>[3] Training process for BoD youtube part 1 of 3 <a href="https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7R-aIeZ7yS8">https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7R-aIeZ7yS8</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/news/simon-lorenzi-burden-of-dreams/">https://www.climbing.com/news/simon-lorenzi-burden-of-dreams/</a></p>
After
<p>With this ascent Simon became the first climber to climb three problems graded 9A after his subsequent ascents of <a href="/climb/849/soudain-seul">Soudain Seul</a> and <a href="/climb/1919/alphane">Alphane</a>. Interestingly Simon used a slightly different sequence to previous ascentionists:</p> <blockquote> <p>Instead of matching on the left hand crimp after the first move, I use a high left foot to put a drop knee. From there I cross directly to the gaston left hand and then I match on the pinch. [4]</p> </blockquote> <p>On the difficulty of the problem compared to <em>Soudain Seul</em> and <em>Alphane</em>:</p> <blockquote> <p>I think that Burden of Dreams is hard for different reasons but not harder. The fact is that the first move is low percentage and you have just a few tries before your skin is dead. That means that the opportunities to send are quite limited before you have to rest again at least one day for your skin. <a href="/climb/1919/alphane">Alphane</a> and <a href="/climb/849/soudain-seul">Soudain Seul</a> are completely different; they are physically more demanding, and it feels harder to put all the moves together, but for the same length of trip you’ll have more opportunities to send once you’ve got everything dialed [sic]. [4]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C1Zu5gONwDT/">https://www.instagram.com/p/C1Zu5gONwDT/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://karpollaon8a.com/burden-of-dreams-third-ascent-by-simon-sisu-lorenzi/">https://karpollaon8a.com/burden-of-dreams-third-ascent-by-simon-sisu-lorenzi/</a></p> <p>[3] Training process for BoD youtube part 1 of 3 <a href="https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7R-aIeZ7yS8">https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7R-aIeZ7yS8</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/news/simon-lorenzi-burden-of-dreams/">https://www.climbing.com/news/simon-lorenzi-burden-of-dreams/</a></p>
235 7th July 2025 15:31:07 ben climb Action Directe notes
Before
Action Directe is a sport route in the [Waldkopf](/crag/9613/waldkopf) area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by [Wolfgang Güllich](/climber/525/wolfgang-güllich) in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world. The route is famous for it's brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg hence the name). After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece. The route is named after the [french terror group](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Action_Directe) of the same name. ### References [1] *Written in Stone*, Nov 2023 [https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?) [2] *Written in Stone* interview with [Ben Cossey](/climber/651/ben-cossey), Nov 2023 [https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?) [3] *Written in Stone* interview with [Alex Megos](/climber/472/alex-megos), Nov 2023 [https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?)
After
Action Directe is a sport route in the [Waldkopf](/crag/9613/waldkopf) area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by [Wolfgang Güllich](/climber/525/wolfgang-güllich) in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world. The route is famous for it's brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg hence the name). After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece. The route is named after the [French far-left militant group](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Action_Directe) of the same name. ### References [1] *Written in Stone*, Nov 2023 [https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?) [2] *Written in Stone* interview with [Ben Cossey](/climber/651/ben-cossey), Nov 2023 [https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?) [3] *Written in Stone* interview with [Alex Megos](/climber/472/alex-megos), Nov 2023 [https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?)
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -4,7 +4,7 @@


After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece.

-The route is named after the [french terror group](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Action_Directe) of the same name.
+The route is named after the [French far-left militant group](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Action_Directe) of the same name.

### References

236 7th July 2025 15:31:07 ben climb Action Directe notes_pretty
Before
<p>Action Directe is a sport route in the <a href="/crag/9613/waldkopf">Waldkopf</a> area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by <a href="/climber/525/wolfgang-güllich">Wolfgang Güllich</a> in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world.</p> <p>The route is famous for it's brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg hence the name).</p> <p>After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece.</p> <p>The route is named after the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Action_Directe">french terror group</a> of the same name.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <em>Written in Stone</em>, Nov 2023 <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?</a></p> <p>[2] <em>Written in Stone</em> interview with <a href="/climber/651/ben-cossey">Ben Cossey</a>, Nov 2023 <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Written in Stone</em> interview with <a href="/climber/472/alex-megos">Alex Megos</a>, Nov 2023 <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?</a></p>
After
<p>Action Directe is a sport route in the <a href="/crag/9613/waldkopf">Waldkopf</a> area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by <a href="/climber/525/wolfgang-güllich">Wolfgang Güllich</a> in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world.</p> <p>The route is famous for it's brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg hence the name).</p> <p>After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece.</p> <p>The route is named after the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Action_Directe">French far-left militant group</a> of the same name.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <em>Written in Stone</em>, Nov 2023 <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?</a></p> <p>[2] <em>Written in Stone</em> interview with <a href="/climber/651/ben-cossey">Ben Cossey</a>, Nov 2023 <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?</a></p> <p>[3] <em>Written in Stone</em> interview with <a href="/climber/472/alex-megos">Alex Megos</a>, Nov 2023 <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?</a></p>
237 7th July 2025 15:28:22 ben media https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2bZsFZdpgs missing_right_to_reproduce
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238 7th July 2025 15:28:22 ben media https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2bZsFZdpgs url
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2bZsFZdpgs
239 7th July 2025 15:28:22 ben media https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2bZsFZdpgs embed_code
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<div class="video-wrapper"><iframe class="embed-responsive-item" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/i2bZsFZdpgs" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
240 7th July 2025 15:28:22 ben climber Dave Graham notes
Before
Dave Graham is an American boulderer and sport climber who is known for his extremely technical climbing style that makes a lot of use of toe hooks and knee bars, as well as his longevity in the sport and his extensive collection of first ascents. Graham started climbing in 1997 and very quickly worked his way through the grades, climbing his first 8b+ sport route just a year later. Some of his notable ascents include [The Story of Two Worlds](/climb/787/the-story-of-two-worlds) (fa), [Action Directe](/climb/515/action-directe) (fourth ascent), [From Dirt Grows the Flowers](/climb/112/from-dirt-grows-the-flowers) (fa), [The Island](/climb/144/the-island) (fa) and [The Ice Knife](/climb/847/the-ice-knife) (fa). ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2bZsFZdpgs](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2bZsFZdpgs) [2] Interview with PlanetMoutnain.com, 2001 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/dave-graham.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/dave-graham.html) [3] Interview with [climbing.com](https://www.climbing.com) 2022, [https://www.climbing.com/people/what-ive-learned-dave-graham/](https://www.climbing.com/people/what-ive-learned-dave-graham/)
After
Dave Graham is an American boulderer and sport climber who is known for his extremely technical climbing style that makes a lot of use of toe hooks and knee bars, as well as his longevity in the sport and his extensive collection of first ascents. Graham started climbing in 1997 and very quickly worked his way through the grades, climbing his first 8b+ sport route just a year later. Some of his notable ascents include [The Story of Two Worlds](/climb/787/the-story-of-two-worlds) (fa), [Action Directe](/climb/515/action-directe) (fourth ascent), [From Dirt Grows the Flowers](/climb/112/from-dirt-grows-the-flowers) (fa), [The Island](/climb/144/the-island) (fa) and [The Ice Knife](/climb/847/the-ice-knife) (fa). ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2bZsFZdpgs](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2bZsFZdpgs) [2] Interview with PlanetMountain.com, 2001 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/dave-graham.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/dave-graham.html) [3] Interview with [climbing.com](https://www.climbing.com) 2022, [https://www.climbing.com/people/what-ive-learned-dave-graham/](https://www.climbing.com/people/what-ive-learned-dave-graham/)
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[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2bZsFZdpgs](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2bZsFZdpgs)

-[2] Interview with PlanetMoutnain.com, 2001 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/dave-graham.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/dave-graham.html)
+[2] Interview with PlanetMountain.com, 2001 [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/dave-graham.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/dave-graham.html)

[3] Interview with [climbing.com](https://www.climbing.com) 2022, [https://www.climbing.com/people/what-ive-learned-dave-graham/](https://www.climbing.com/people/what-ive-learned-dave-graham/)

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