| Country | Contributions | Between | Climbers | Crags | Summits | Climbs | Ascents | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | United Kingdom | 10115 | 22nd May 2025 – 26th June 2026 | 106 | 13 | 0 | 547 | 986 |
| 2 | France | 3310 | 22nd May 2025 – 25th June 2026 | 30 | 13 | 0 | 166 | 318 |
| 3 | USA | 1660 | 30th July 2025 – 26th June 2026 | 24 | 56 | 0 | 156 | 82 |
| 4 | Japan | 1433 | 19th July 2025 – 23rd June 2026 | 14 | 25 | 0 | 98 | 70 |
| 5 | Spain | 314 | 31st July 2025 – 25th June 2026 | 3 | 9 | 0 | 33 | 13 |
| 6 | New Zealand | 214 | 19th August 2025 – 26th June 2026 | 1 | 1 | 0 | 15 | 13 |
| 7 | Switzerland | 194 | 31st July 2025 – 26th June 2026 | 2 | 5 | 0 | 20 | 12 |
| 8 | Canada | 146 | 10th September 2025 – 10th June 2026 | 1 | 8 | 0 | 23 | 2 |
| 9 | Italy | 146 | 12th August 2025 – 17th May 2026 | 1 | 7 | 0 | 16 | 6 |
| 10 | Norway | 126 | 6th September 2025 – 16th June 2026 | 1 | 4 | 0 | 9 | 6 |
| Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 61 | 26th June 2026 | 10:17:12 UTC | TdG | media | /file/3e913328-d74e-641b-a535-9888d0db209d/109674093_medium_1494359660.jpg | url | |
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Before
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| 62 | 26th June 2026 | 10:15:39 UTC | TdG | climb | Hall of Mirrors | notes | |
|
Before
>The history of the Hall of Mirrors is now fairly well known. Between 1976 and September 1980, the route grew by a process of accretion, countless attempts by different teams involving various and often enough conflicting personalities. However, for the sake of convenience, the growth of the route may be divided into three distinct stages, dominated, in succession, by the skills and philosophies of three different prime motivators, Mark Wilford, Dave Austin, and Chris Cantwell. Every advance up the wall was likewise preceded by some major change in equipment, technique, or strategy. These include siege climbing from portaledges, the provisional use of aid chains, and the appearance of the Galibier “Contact” shoe, with its softer, more malleable, and adhesive rubber.
>During the drought of 1976-77, Mark Wilford of Colorado Springs established the route’s first two pitches, titling his effort The Opening of Misty Beethoven, after a highly overrated, though somewhat programmatic, pornographic film. After such an ambitious beginning, it is not clear why he stopped so soon. But the route is highly tempermental at best, and its conditions were undoubtedly at their greasiest after a scorching, bone- dry summer. By self-admission, Wilford had never friction climbed before either. He had no way of knowing in advance that using chalk would increase the rating of the second pitch several additional grades. So, the hypothetical third pitch must have appeared impossible, although it was to be rated finally only 5.10a.
>It was at this point that Dave Austin decided to administer a salutory dose of technical hygiene. Backed by experience he had gained on A Mother’s Lament, Austin realized the use of chalk was anathema to advanced foonting* because the particles that fell down from his hands destroyed adhesion between shoe rubber and the smooth rock surface. After recruiting Chris Cantwell and me from the Lodge parking lot, Austin now added pitches three through eight to a route renamed the Hall of Mirrors. Even with the aid of fixed ropes and siege tactics, however, we were unable to complete the Unfinished Ninth, a pitch that was eventually to be rated 5.12b.
>Accompanied at one time or another by either Scott Cole or Scott Burk, Cantwell took over the lead. In the fall of 1979 he had obtained a prototype pair of “Contacts,” a new softer rubber shoe by Galibier that permitted better friction on higher-angle stone. He finished the Ninth and, over the next year, undaunted by storms and earthquakes, pushed the route up to the base of the 13th pitch. Here he decided, after drilling a few miraculous bolts up a nearly vertical prow, that a bolt ladder was finally necessary.
>However, when Austin accompanied Cantwell up the fixed lines to this new high point, there was disagreement. Austin believed that following a ramp a few feet to the right would have eliminated the need for a ladder. Drilling could have been accomplished from all-natural stances, Austin argued. But in order to make the line harder for the sake of difficulty as an end in itself, Cantwell had refused to compromise with the natural rock environment and, instead, had deliberately chosen to construct a pre-placed “free ladder” up what he referred to as the “line of strength.” Feeling such tactics were unconscionable, Austin elected to drop out. Still, Cantwell persevered. After freeing the 13th, at a tentative 5.13 standard, he went on to add two more hard pitches before intercepting the Coonyard to Rim route. On this final push, in September 1980, Scott Burke was his partner.
>Before they were freed, Half Dome and the west face of El Capitan had been conventional aid routes for over twenty years. The rationale behind freeing the northwest face of Half Dome was based on the fact that it was America’s first grade six. But Hall of Mirrors was the first time a Yosemite grade six had been conceived of as a free climb from its inception. However, it is especially significant that the Cantwell-Austin break underscores the conflicting face-climbing traditions that were introduced at the start of this article. Cantwell wished to maximize difficulty by constructing a well-protected free line, while Austin wished to preserve boldness by following the natural line of greatest weakness.
>* Foonting is a technical Yosemite term used in friction climbing. It involves “smearing” on high-angle slabs while rapidly “padding” upward; moving up, in essence, faster than moving back down.
### References
[1] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards)
After
16 pitches of granite slab climbing joy/misery, questing up some of the glassiest, glacier-polished granite out there. Despite a relatively modest grade of 5.12c R, the route has seen only a handful of ascents in its near-50 year history.
The route has a complex history, with Mark Wilford, Dave Austin, [Chris Cantwell](/climber/3174/chris-cantwell) pioneering up the wall in phases, with varying amounts of aid, between 1976 and 1980.
[Jonny Woodward](/climber/536/jonny-woodward) made the second ascent and first in-a-day ascent in 1992. Notably he chose to wear old-school non-sticky rubber, finding the modern shoes rolled too easily off the route's micro-smedges.
[Alex Honnold](/climber/622/alex-honnold) made the third ascent in 2011.
[Bruce Morris](/climber/3173/bruce-morris) narrates the history:
>The history of the Hall of Mirrors is now fairly well known. Between 1976 and September 1980, the route grew by a process of accretion, countless attempts by different teams involving various and often enough conflicting personalities. However, for the sake of convenience, the growth of the route may be divided into three distinct stages, dominated, in succession, by the skills and philosophies of three different prime motivators, Mark Wilford, Dave Austin, and Chris Cantwell. Every advance up the wall was likewise preceded by some major change in equipment, technique, or strategy. These include siege climbing from portaledges, the provisional use of aid chains, and the appearance of the Galibier “Contact” shoe, with its softer, more malleable, and adhesive rubber.
>During the drought of 1976-77, Mark Wilford of Colorado Springs established the route’s first two pitches, titling his effort The Opening of Misty Beethoven, after a highly overrated, though somewhat programmatic, pornographic film. After such an ambitious beginning, it is not clear why he stopped so soon. But the route is highly tempermental at best, and its conditions were undoubtedly at their greasiest after a scorching, bone- dry summer. By self-admission, Wilford had never friction climbed before either. He had no way of knowing in advance that using chalk would increase the rating of the second pitch several additional grades. So, the hypothetical third pitch must have appeared impossible, although it was to be rated finally only 5.10a.
>It was at this point that Dave Austin decided to administer a salutory dose of technical hygiene. Backed by experience he had gained on A Mother’s Lament, Austin realized the use of chalk was anathema to advanced foonting* because the particles that fell down from his hands destroyed adhesion between shoe rubber and the smooth rock surface. After recruiting Chris Cantwell and me from the Lodge parking lot, Austin now added pitches three through eight to a route renamed the Hall of Mirrors. Even with the aid of fixed ropes and siege tactics, however, we were unable to complete the Unfinished Ninth, a pitch that was eventually to be rated 5.12b.
>Accompanied at one time or another by either Scott Cole or Scott Burk, Cantwell took over the lead. In the fall of 1979 he had obtained a prototype pair of “Contacts,” a new softer rubber shoe by Galibier that permitted better friction on higher-angle stone. He finished the Ninth and, over the next year, undaunted by storms and earthquakes, pushed the route up to the base of the 13th pitch. Here he decided, after drilling a few miraculous bolts up a nearly vertical prow, that a bolt ladder was finally necessary.
>However, when Austin accompanied Cantwell up the fixed lines to this new high point, there was disagreement. Austin believed that following a ramp a few feet to the right would have eliminated the need for a ladder. Drilling could have been accomplished from all-natural stances, Austin argued. But in order to make the line harder for the sake of difficulty as an end in itself, Cantwell had refused to compromise with the natural rock environment and, instead, had deliberately chosen to construct a pre-placed “free ladder” up what he referred to as the “line of strength.” Feeling such tactics were unconscionable, Austin elected to drop out. Still, Cantwell persevered. After freeing the 13th, at a tentative 5.13 standard, he went on to add two more hard pitches before intercepting the Coonyard to Rim route. On this final push, in September 1980, Scott Burke was his partner.
>Before they were freed, Half Dome and the west face of El Capitan had been conventional aid routes for over twenty years. The rationale behind freeing the northwest face of Half Dome was based on the fact that it was America’s first grade six. But Hall of Mirrors was the first time a Yosemite grade six had been conceived of as a free climb from its inception. However, it is especially significant that the Cantwell-Austin break underscores the conflicting face-climbing traditions that were introduced at the start of this article. Cantwell wished to maximize difficulty by constructing a well-protected free line, while Austin wished to preserve boldness by following the natural line of greatest weakness.
>* Foonting is a technical Yosemite term used in friction climbing. It involves “smearing” on high-angle slabs while rapidly “padding” upward; moving up, in essence, faster than moving back down.
### References
[1] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 63 | 26th June 2026 | 10:15:39 UTC | TdG | climb | Hall of Mirrors | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<blockquote>
<p>The history of the Hall of Mirrors is now fairly well known. Between 1976 and September 1980, the route grew by a process of accretion, countless attempts by different teams involving various and often enough conflicting personalities. However, for the sake of convenience, the growth of the route may be divided into three distinct stages, dominated, in succession, by the skills and philosophies of three different prime motivators, Mark Wilford, Dave Austin, and Chris Cantwell. Every advance up the wall was likewise preceded by some major change in equipment, technique, or strategy. These include siege climbing from portaledges, the provisional use of aid chains, and the appearance of the Galibier “Contact” shoe, with its softer, more malleable, and adhesive rubber.</p>
<p>During the drought of 1976-77, Mark Wilford of Colorado Springs established the route’s first two pitches, titling his effort The Opening of Misty Beethoven, after a highly overrated, though somewhat programmatic, pornographic film. After such an ambitious beginning, it is not clear why he stopped so soon. But the route is highly tempermental at best, and its conditions were undoubtedly at their greasiest after a scorching, bone- dry summer. By self-admission, Wilford had never friction climbed before either. He had no way of knowing in advance that using chalk would increase the rating of the second pitch several additional grades. So, the hypothetical third pitch must have appeared impossible, although it was to be rated finally only 5.10a.</p>
<p>It was at this point that Dave Austin decided to administer a salutory dose of technical hygiene. Backed by experience he had gained on A Mother’s Lament, Austin realized the use of chalk was anathema to advanced foonting* because the particles that fell down from his hands destroyed adhesion between shoe rubber and the smooth rock surface. After recruiting Chris Cantwell and me from the Lodge parking lot, Austin now added pitches three through eight to a route renamed the Hall of Mirrors. Even with the aid of fixed ropes and siege tactics, however, we were unable to complete the Unfinished Ninth, a pitch that was eventually to be rated 5.12b.</p>
<p>Accompanied at one time or another by either Scott Cole or Scott Burk, Cantwell took over the lead. In the fall of 1979 he had obtained a prototype pair of “Contacts,” a new softer rubber shoe by Galibier that permitted better friction on higher-angle stone. He finished the Ninth and, over the next year, undaunted by storms and earthquakes, pushed the route up to the base of the 13th pitch. Here he decided, after drilling a few miraculous bolts up a nearly vertical prow, that a bolt ladder was finally necessary.</p>
<p>However, when Austin accompanied Cantwell up the fixed lines to this new high point, there was disagreement. Austin believed that following a ramp a few feet to the right would have eliminated the need for a ladder. Drilling could have been accomplished from all-natural stances, Austin argued. But in order to make the line harder for the sake of difficulty as an end in itself, Cantwell had refused to compromise with the natural rock environment and, instead, had deliberately chosen to construct a pre-placed “free ladder” up what he referred to as the “line of strength.” Feeling such tactics were unconscionable, Austin elected to drop out. Still, Cantwell persevered. After freeing the 13th, at a tentative 5.13 standard, he went on to add two more hard pitches before intercepting the Coonyard to Rim route. On this final push, in September 1980, Scott Burke was his partner.</p>
<p>Before they were freed, Half Dome and the west face of El Capitan had been conventional aid routes for over twenty years. The rationale behind freeing the northwest face of Half Dome was based on the fact that it was America’s first grade six. But Hall of Mirrors was the first time a Yosemite grade six had been conceived of as a free climb from its inception. However, it is especially significant that the Cantwell-Austin break underscores the conflicting face-climbing traditions that were introduced at the start of this article. Cantwell wished to maximize difficulty by constructing a well-protected free line, while Austin wished to preserve boldness by following the natural line of greatest weakness.</p>
<ul>
<li>Foonting is a technical Yosemite term used in friction climbing. It involves “smearing” on high-angle slabs while rapidly “padding” upward; moving up, in essence, faster than moving back down.</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards</a></p>
After
<p>16 pitches of granite slab climbing joy/misery, questing up some of the glassiest, glacier-polished granite out there. Despite a relatively modest grade of 5.12c R, the route has seen only a handful of ascents in its near-50 year history.</p>
<p>The route has a complex history, with Mark Wilford, Dave Austin, <a href="/climber/3174/chris-cantwell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Cantwell</a> pioneering up the wall in phases, with varying amounts of aid, between 1976 and 1980. </p>
<p><a href="/climber/536/jonny-woodward" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jonny Woodward</a> made the second ascent and first in-a-day ascent in 1992. Notably he chose to wear old-school non-sticky rubber, finding the modern shoes rolled too easily off the route's micro-smedges.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/622/alex-honnold" rel="noopener noreferrer">Alex Honnold</a> made the third ascent in 2011.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/3173/bruce-morris" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bruce Morris</a> narrates the history:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The history of the Hall of Mirrors is now fairly well known. Between 1976 and September 1980, the route grew by a process of accretion, countless attempts by different teams involving various and often enough conflicting personalities. However, for the sake of convenience, the growth of the route may be divided into three distinct stages, dominated, in succession, by the skills and philosophies of three different prime motivators, Mark Wilford, Dave Austin, and Chris Cantwell. Every advance up the wall was likewise preceded by some major change in equipment, technique, or strategy. These include siege climbing from portaledges, the provisional use of aid chains, and the appearance of the Galibier “Contact” shoe, with its softer, more malleable, and adhesive rubber.</p>
<p>During the drought of 1976-77, Mark Wilford of Colorado Springs established the route’s first two pitches, titling his effort The Opening of Misty Beethoven, after a highly overrated, though somewhat programmatic, pornographic film. After such an ambitious beginning, it is not clear why he stopped so soon. But the route is highly tempermental at best, and its conditions were undoubtedly at their greasiest after a scorching, bone- dry summer. By self-admission, Wilford had never friction climbed before either. He had no way of knowing in advance that using chalk would increase the rating of the second pitch several additional grades. So, the hypothetical third pitch must have appeared impossible, although it was to be rated finally only 5.10a.</p>
<p>It was at this point that Dave Austin decided to administer a salutory dose of technical hygiene. Backed by experience he had gained on A Mother’s Lament, Austin realized the use of chalk was anathema to advanced foonting* because the particles that fell down from his hands destroyed adhesion between shoe rubber and the smooth rock surface. After recruiting Chris Cantwell and me from the Lodge parking lot, Austin now added pitches three through eight to a route renamed the Hall of Mirrors. Even with the aid of fixed ropes and siege tactics, however, we were unable to complete the Unfinished Ninth, a pitch that was eventually to be rated 5.12b.</p>
<p>Accompanied at one time or another by either Scott Cole or Scott Burk, Cantwell took over the lead. In the fall of 1979 he had obtained a prototype pair of “Contacts,” a new softer rubber shoe by Galibier that permitted better friction on higher-angle stone. He finished the Ninth and, over the next year, undaunted by storms and earthquakes, pushed the route up to the base of the 13th pitch. Here he decided, after drilling a few miraculous bolts up a nearly vertical prow, that a bolt ladder was finally necessary.</p>
<p>However, when Austin accompanied Cantwell up the fixed lines to this new high point, there was disagreement. Austin believed that following a ramp a few feet to the right would have eliminated the need for a ladder. Drilling could have been accomplished from all-natural stances, Austin argued. But in order to make the line harder for the sake of difficulty as an end in itself, Cantwell had refused to compromise with the natural rock environment and, instead, had deliberately chosen to construct a pre-placed “free ladder” up what he referred to as the “line of strength.” Feeling such tactics were unconscionable, Austin elected to drop out. Still, Cantwell persevered. After freeing the 13th, at a tentative 5.13 standard, he went on to add two more hard pitches before intercepting the Coonyard to Rim route. On this final push, in September 1980, Scott Burke was his partner.</p>
<p>Before they were freed, Half Dome and the west face of El Capitan had been conventional aid routes for over twenty years. The rationale behind freeing the northwest face of Half Dome was based on the fact that it was America’s first grade six. But Hall of Mirrors was the first time a Yosemite grade six had been conceived of as a free climb from its inception. However, it is especially significant that the Cantwell-Austin break underscores the conflicting face-climbing traditions that were introduced at the start of this article. Cantwell wished to maximize difficulty by constructing a well-protected free line, while Austin wished to preserve boldness by following the natural line of greatest weakness.</p>
<ul>
<li>Foonting is a technical Yosemite term used in friction climbing. It involves “smearing” on high-angle slabs while rapidly “padding” upward; moving up, in essence, faster than moving back down.</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198204100/Method-and-Madness-Evolution-of-Yosemite-Face-Climbing-Standards</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 64 | 26th June 2026 | 09:42:12 UTC | TdG | climber | Barbara Zangerl | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Barbara Zangerl is an Austrian climber best known for her trad. and multi-pitch climbing. Together with her partner <a href="/climber/590/jacopo-larcher" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jacopo Larcher</a> she has climbed many of the hardest big wall and multi-pitch routes in the world: <a href="/climb/1126/magic-mushroom" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magic Mushroom</a> (E10), <a href="/climb/6215/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> (E9), <a href="/climb/1533/bellavista" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bellavista</a> (E9), <a href="/climb/1330/silbergeier" rel="noopener noreferrer">Silbergeier</a> (8b+), <a href="/climb/1481/des-kaisers-neue-kleider" rel="noopener noreferrer">Des Kaisers neue Kleider</a> (8b+) and <a href="/climb/1480/end-of-silence" rel="noopener noreferrer">End of Silence</a> (8b+) to name a few.</p>
<p>Babsi started off as a boulderer, notably climbing <a href="/climb/4699/pura-vida" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pura Vida</a> (8A+) in <a href="/crag/8438/magic-wood" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magic Wood</a> in 2008. This was one of the hardest problems ever climbed by a woman at the time.</p>
<p>While she has largely stopped bouldering at the highest level she is a very capable sport and trad climber, operating at or near the cutting edge in both disciplines. In 2014 she made the first female ascent of <a href="/climb/600/prinzip-hoffnung" rel="noopener noreferrer">Prinzip Hoffnung</a> (E9), then in 2016 she made the second ascent of <a href="/climb/567/achemine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Achemine</a> (E9) at <a href="/crag/189/dumbarton-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dumbarton Rock</a>. In 2017 she made the second ascent of <a href="/climb/7233/gondo-crack" rel="noopener noreferrer">Gondo Crack</a> (E9) and the first female ascent of <a href="/climb/604/muy-caliente!" rel="noopener noreferrer">Muy Caliente!</a> (E9) in Pembroke. In 2023 she repeated <a href="/climb/1424/meltdown" rel="noopener noreferrer">Meltdown</a> (E11) in Yosemite, one of the hardest traditional pitches in the world at the time and only the fourth ascent since <a href="/climber/1024/beth-rodden" rel="noopener noreferrer">Beth Rodden</a> made the first ascent in 2008.</p>
<p>In 2024 Babsi cemeted her place in history by becoming the first person to climb a free route on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a> first go by flashing <a href="/climb/804/freerider" rel="noopener noreferrer">Freerider</a> (E7).</p>
<p>Along side being a professional climber she also works part time as a radiographer in Austria.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://fanatic-climbing.com/babsi-zangerl-nous-parle-trad-et-grimpe-en-general-babsi-zangerl-on-trad-and-climbing-in-general/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://fanatic-climbing.com/babsi-zangerl-nous-parle-trad-et-grimpe-en-general-babsi-zangerl-on-trad-and-climbing-in-general/</a></p>
<p>[2] Interview with <a href="/climber/617/sonnie-trotter" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sonnie Trotter</a> <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_KQe7o3zoc" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_KQe7o3zoc</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.onsight.com.au/2014/04/barbara-zangerl/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.onsight.com.au/2014/04/barbara-zangerl/</a></p>
After
<p>Barbara Zangerl is an Austrian climber best known for her trad. and multi-pitch climbing. Together with her partner <a href="/climber/590/jacopo-larcher" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jacopo Larcher</a> she has climbed many of the hardest big wall and multi-pitch routes in the world: <a href="/climb/1126/magic-mushroom" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magic Mushroom</a> (E10), <a href="/climb/6215/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> (E9), <a href="/climb/1533/bellavista" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bellavista</a> (E9), <a href="/climb/1330/silbergeier" rel="noopener noreferrer">Silbergeier</a> (8b+), <a href="/climb/1481/des-kaisers-neue-kleider" rel="noopener noreferrer">Des Kaisers neue Kleider</a> (8b+) and <a href="/climb/1480/end-of-silence" rel="noopener noreferrer">End of Silence</a> (8b+) to name a few.</p>
<p>Babsi started off as a boulderer, notably climbing <a href="/climb/4699/pura-vida" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pura Vida</a> (8A+) in <a href="/crag/8438/magic-wood" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magic Wood</a> in 2008. This was one of the hardest problems ever climbed by a woman at the time.</p>
<p>While she has largely stopped bouldering at the highest level she is a very capable sport and trad climber, operating at or near the cutting edge in both disciplines. In 2014 she made the first female ascent of <a href="/climb/600/prinzip-hoffnung" rel="noopener noreferrer">Prinzip Hoffnung</a> (E9), then in 2016 she made the second ascent of <a href="/climb/567/achemine" rel="noopener noreferrer">Achemine</a> (E9) at <a href="/crag/189/dumbarton-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dumbarton Rock</a>. In 2017 she made the second ascent of <a href="/climb/7233/gondo-crack" rel="noopener noreferrer">Gondo Crack</a> (E9) and the first female ascent of <a href="/climb/604/muy-caliente!" rel="noopener noreferrer">Muy Caliente!</a> (E9) in Pembroke. In 2023 she repeated <a href="/climb/1424/meltdown" rel="noopener noreferrer">Meltdown</a> (E11) in Yosemite, one of the hardest traditional pitches in the world at the time and only the fourth ascent since <a href="/climber/1024/beth-rodden" rel="noopener noreferrer">Beth Rodden</a> made the first ascent in 2008.</p>
<p>In 2024 Babsi cemeted her place in history by becoming the first person to climb a free route on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a> first go by flashing <a href="/climb/804/freerider" rel="noopener noreferrer">Freerider</a> (E7).</p>
<p>Alongside being a professional climber she also works part time as a radiographer in Austria.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://fanatic-climbing.com/babsi-zangerl-nous-parle-trad-et-grimpe-en-general-babsi-zangerl-on-trad-and-climbing-in-general/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://fanatic-climbing.com/babsi-zangerl-nous-parle-trad-et-grimpe-en-general-babsi-zangerl-on-trad-and-climbing-in-general/</a></p>
<p>[2] Interview with <a href="/climber/617/sonnie-trotter" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sonnie Trotter</a> <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_KQe7o3zoc" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_KQe7o3zoc</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.onsight.com.au/2014/04/barbara-zangerl/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.onsight.com.au/2014/04/barbara-zangerl/</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 65 | 26th June 2026 | 09:42:12 UTC | TdG | climber | Barbara Zangerl | notes | |
|
Before
Barbara Zangerl is an Austrian climber best known for her trad. and multi-pitch climbing. Together with her partner [Jacopo Larcher](/climber/590/jacopo-larcher) she has climbed many of the hardest big wall and multi-pitch routes in the world: [Magic Mushroom](/climb/1126/magic-mushroom) (E10), [The Nose](/climb/6215/the-nose) (E9), [Bellavista](/climb/1533/bellavista) (E9), [Silbergeier](/climb/1330/silbergeier) (8b+), [Des Kaisers neue Kleider](/climb/1481/des-kaisers-neue-kleider) (8b+) and [End of Silence](/climb/1480/end-of-silence) (8b+) to name a few.
Babsi started off as a boulderer, notably climbing [Pura Vida](/climb/4699/pura-vida) (8A+) in [Magic Wood](/crag/8438/magic-wood) in 2008. This was one of the hardest problems ever climbed by a woman at the time.
While she has largely stopped bouldering at the highest level she is a very capable sport and trad climber, operating at or near the cutting edge in both disciplines. In 2014 she made the first female ascent of [Prinzip Hoffnung](/climb/600/prinzip-hoffnung) (E9), then in 2016 she made the second ascent of [Achemine](/climb/567/achemine) (E9) at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock). In 2017 she made the second ascent of [Gondo Crack](/climb/7233/gondo-crack) (E9) and the first female ascent of [Muy Caliente!](/climb/604/muy-caliente!) (E9) in Pembroke. In 2023 she repeated [Meltdown](/climb/1424/meltdown) (E11) in Yosemite, one of the hardest traditional pitches in the world at the time and only the fourth ascent since [Beth Rodden](/climber/1024/beth-rodden) made the first ascent in 2008.
In 2024 Babsi cemeted her place in history by becoming the first person to climb a free route on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan) first go by flashing [Freerider](/climb/804/freerider) (E7).
Along side being a professional climber she also works part time as a radiographer in Austria.
### References
[1] [https://fanatic-climbing.com/babsi-zangerl-nous-parle-trad-et-grimpe-en-general-babsi-zangerl-on-trad-and-climbing-in-general/](https://fanatic-climbing.com/babsi-zangerl-nous-parle-trad-et-grimpe-en-general-babsi-zangerl-on-trad-and-climbing-in-general/)
[2] Interview with [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_KQe7o3zoc](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_KQe7o3zoc)
[3] [https://www.onsight.com.au/2014/04/barbara-zangerl/](https://www.onsight.com.au/2014/04/barbara-zangerl/)
After
Barbara Zangerl is an Austrian climber best known for her trad. and multi-pitch climbing. Together with her partner [Jacopo Larcher](/climber/590/jacopo-larcher) she has climbed many of the hardest big wall and multi-pitch routes in the world: [Magic Mushroom](/climb/1126/magic-mushroom) (E10), [The Nose](/climb/6215/the-nose) (E9), [Bellavista](/climb/1533/bellavista) (E9), [Silbergeier](/climb/1330/silbergeier) (8b+), [Des Kaisers neue Kleider](/climb/1481/des-kaisers-neue-kleider) (8b+) and [End of Silence](/climb/1480/end-of-silence) (8b+) to name a few.
Babsi started off as a boulderer, notably climbing [Pura Vida](/climb/4699/pura-vida) (8A+) in [Magic Wood](/crag/8438/magic-wood) in 2008. This was one of the hardest problems ever climbed by a woman at the time.
While she has largely stopped bouldering at the highest level she is a very capable sport and trad climber, operating at or near the cutting edge in both disciplines. In 2014 she made the first female ascent of [Prinzip Hoffnung](/climb/600/prinzip-hoffnung) (E9), then in 2016 she made the second ascent of [Achemine](/climb/567/achemine) (E9) at [Dumbarton Rock](/crag/189/dumbarton-rock). In 2017 she made the second ascent of [Gondo Crack](/climb/7233/gondo-crack) (E9) and the first female ascent of [Muy Caliente!](/climb/604/muy-caliente!) (E9) in Pembroke. In 2023 she repeated [Meltdown](/climb/1424/meltdown) (E11) in Yosemite, one of the hardest traditional pitches in the world at the time and only the fourth ascent since [Beth Rodden](/climber/1024/beth-rodden) made the first ascent in 2008.
In 2024 Babsi cemeted her place in history by becoming the first person to climb a free route on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan) first go by flashing [Freerider](/climb/804/freerider) (E7).
Alongside being a professional climber she also works part time as a radiographer in Austria.
### References
[1] [https://fanatic-climbing.com/babsi-zangerl-nous-parle-trad-et-grimpe-en-general-babsi-zangerl-on-trad-and-climbing-in-general/](https://fanatic-climbing.com/babsi-zangerl-nous-parle-trad-et-grimpe-en-general-babsi-zangerl-on-trad-and-climbing-in-general/)
[2] Interview with [Sonnie Trotter](/climber/617/sonnie-trotter) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_KQe7o3zoc](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_KQe7o3zoc)
[3] [https://www.onsight.com.au/2014/04/barbara-zangerl/](https://www.onsight.com.au/2014/04/barbara-zangerl/)
Diff
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| 66 | 26th June 2026 | 09:31:57 UTC | TdG | ascent | Leo Houlding's ascent of El Niño | notes | |
|
Before
An incredible ascent as Leo was extremely close to onsighting the entire route at a time when any free ascent on El Cap was notable.
However, on the first pitch he grabbed a quickdraw at the end of a runout section on his first attempt before lowering back to the start of the pitch and reclimbing it. He also pulled on the first bolt of the second pitch to clean and inspect the holds on the hard section off the belay before then climbing it clean on his first attempt. [1]
> Undoubtedly the best climb and greatest adventure I'd ever been on by several orders of magnitude.
### References
[1] [Alpine Journal 2002 50-53 Houlding El Nino](/library/6652/alpine-journal-2002-50-53-houlding-el-nino)
[2] *On The Edge* Issue 84, page 46
After
An incredible ascent as Leo was extremely close to onsighting the entire route at a time when any free ascent on El Cap was notable.
However, on the first pitch he grabbed a quickdraw at the end of a runout section on his first attempt before lowering back to the start of the pitch and reclimbing it. He also pulled on the first bolt of the second pitch to clean and inspect the holds on the hard section off the belay before then climbing it clean on his first attempt. [1]
> Undoubtedly the best climb and greatest adventure I'd ever been on by several orders of magnitude.
This was Leo and [Patch's](/climber/1193/patch-hammond) first big wall, climbed with a borrowed portal edge and other big wall gear.
### References
[1] [Alpine Journal 2002 50-53 Houlding El Nino](/library/6652/alpine-journal-2002-50-53-houlding-el-nino)
[2] *On The Edge* Issue 84, page 46
Diff
--- before
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| 67 | 26th June 2026 | 09:31:57 UTC | TdG | ascent | Leo Houlding's ascent of El Niño | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>An incredible ascent as Leo was extremely close to onsighting the entire route at a time when any free ascent on El Cap was notable. </p>
<p>However, on the first pitch he grabbed a quickdraw at the end of a runout section on his first attempt before lowering back to the start of the pitch and reclimbing it. He also pulled on the first bolt of the second pitch to clean and inspect the holds on the hard section off the belay before then climbing it clean on his first attempt. [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Undoubtedly the best climb and greatest adventure I'd ever been on by several orders of magnitude.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/library/6652/alpine-journal-2002-50-53-houlding-el-nino">Alpine Journal 2002 50-53 Houlding El Nino</a></p>
<p>[2] <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 84, page 46</p>
After
<p>An incredible ascent as Leo was extremely close to onsighting the entire route at a time when any free ascent on El Cap was notable. </p>
<p>However, on the first pitch he grabbed a quickdraw at the end of a runout section on his first attempt before lowering back to the start of the pitch and reclimbing it. He also pulled on the first bolt of the second pitch to clean and inspect the holds on the hard section off the belay before then climbing it clean on his first attempt. [1]</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Undoubtedly the best climb and greatest adventure I'd ever been on by several orders of magnitude.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>This was Leo and <a href="/climber/1193/patch-hammond" rel="noopener noreferrer">Patch's</a> first big wall, climbed with a borrowed portal edge and other big wall gear.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/library/6652/alpine-journal-2002-50-53-houlding-el-nino" rel="noopener noreferrer">Alpine Journal 2002 50-53 Houlding El Nino</a></p>
<p>[2] <em>On The Edge</em> Issue 84, page 46</p>
|
|||||||
| 68 | 26th June 2026 | 09:29:44 UTC | TdG | climb | El Niño | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Only the third ever route to be free climbed on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a>, after <a href="/climb/814/salathé-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Salathé Wall</a> and <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a>. </p>
<p>The first ascent by <a href="/climber/523/alexander-huber" rel="noopener noreferrer">Alexander</a> and <a href="/climber/1063/thomas-huber" rel="noopener noreferrer">Thomas Huber</a> followed meticulous preparation, with every hold ticked and every gear placement labelled. </p>
<p>Just a few days after the first ascent, British teenagers <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> and <a href="/climber/1193/patch-hammond" rel="noopener noreferrer">Patch Hammond</a> made an extraordinary almost-onsight ascent of the route for their first big wall.</p>
<p>The route incorporates parts of Continental Drift (a mixed free and aid route) then largely follows the <a href="/climb/6234/north-america-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">North America Wall</a> climbed free in its upper half. Until discovery of the Pineapple Express Variation all ascents used a short pendulum to overcome a 10m blank section. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800</a></p>
After
<p>The third route to be free climbed on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a>, after <a href="/climb/814/salathé-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Salathé Wall</a> and <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a>. </p>
<p>The first ascent by <a href="/climber/523/alexander-huber" rel="noopener noreferrer">Alexander</a> and <a href="/climber/1063/thomas-huber" rel="noopener noreferrer">Thomas Huber</a> followed meticulous preparation, with every hold ticked and every gear placement labelled. </p>
<p>Just a few days after the first ascent, British teenagers <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> and <a href="/climber/1193/patch-hammond" rel="noopener noreferrer">Patch Hammond</a> made an extraordinary almost-onsight ascent of the route for their first big wall.</p>
<p>The route incorporates parts of Continental Drift (a mixed free and aid route) then largely follows the <a href="/climb/6234/north-america-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">North America Wall</a> climbed free in its upper half. Until discovery of the Pineapple Express Variation all ascents used a short pendulum to overcome a 10m blank section. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 69 | 26th June 2026 | 09:29:44 UTC | TdG | climb | El Niño | notes | |
|
Before
Only the third ever route to be free climbed on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), after [Salathé Wall](/climb/814/salathé-wall) and [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose).
The first ascent by [Alexander](/climber/523/alexander-huber) and [Thomas Huber](/climber/1063/thomas-huber) followed meticulous preparation, with every hold ticked and every gear placement labelled.
Just a few days after the first ascent, British teenagers [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) and [Patch Hammond](/climber/1193/patch-hammond) made an extraordinary almost-onsight ascent of the route for their first big wall.
The route incorporates parts of Continental Drift (a mixed free and aid route) then largely follows the [North America Wall](/climb/6234/north-america-wall) climbed free in its upper half. Until discovery of the Pineapple Express Variation all ascents used a short pendulum to overcome a 10m blank section.
### References
[1] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800)
After
The third route to be free climbed on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), after [Salathé Wall](/climb/814/salathé-wall) and [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose).
The first ascent by [Alexander](/climber/523/alexander-huber) and [Thomas Huber](/climber/1063/thomas-huber) followed meticulous preparation, with every hold ticked and every gear placement labelled.
Just a few days after the first ascent, British teenagers [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) and [Patch Hammond](/climber/1193/patch-hammond) made an extraordinary almost-onsight ascent of the route for their first big wall.
The route incorporates parts of Continental Drift (a mixed free and aid route) then largely follows the [North America Wall](/climb/6234/north-america-wall) climbed free in its upper half. Until discovery of the Pineapple Express Variation all ascents used a short pendulum to overcome a 10m blank section.
### References
[1] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800)
Diff
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| 70 | 26th June 2026 | 09:29:27 UTC | TdG | climb | El Niño | featurable | |
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Before
false
After
true
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| 71 | 26th June 2026 | 09:29:04 UTC | TdG | media | /file/71249d8e-6f4f-64d0-5c63-a0ff9e316074/328432.webp | url_optimised | |
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After
/file/b18b4b69-965b-cf34-80a8-9005cdc21d74/328432.webp.webp
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| 72 | 26th June 2026 | 09:29:04 UTC | TdG | media | /file/71249d8e-6f4f-64d0-5c63-a0ff9e316074/328432.webp | attribution | |
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On The Edge
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| 73 | 26th June 2026 | 09:29:04 UTC | TdG | media | /file/71249d8e-6f4f-64d0-5c63-a0ff9e316074/328432.webp | missing_right_to_reproduce | |
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After
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| 74 | 26th June 2026 | 09:29:04 UTC | TdG | media | /file/71249d8e-6f4f-64d0-5c63-a0ff9e316074/328432.webp | src | |
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None
After
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| 75 | 26th June 2026 | 09:29:04 UTC | TdG | media | /file/71249d8e-6f4f-64d0-5c63-a0ff9e316074/328432.webp | url | |
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Before
None
After
/file/71249d8e-6f4f-64d0-5c63-a0ff9e316074/328432.webp
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| 76 | 26th June 2026 | 09:24:08 UTC | TdG | climb | El Niño | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Only the third ever route to be free climbed on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a>, after <a href="/climb/814/salathé-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Salathé Wall</a> and <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a>. Incorporates parts of Continental Drift (a mixed free and aid route) then largely follows the <a href="/climb/6234/north-america-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">North America Wall</a> climbed free in its upper half. Until discovery of the Pineapple Express Variation all ascents used a short pendulum to overcome a 10m blank section. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800</a></p>
After
<p>Only the third ever route to be free climbed on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a>, after <a href="/climb/814/salathé-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">Salathé Wall</a> and <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a>. </p>
<p>The first ascent by <a href="/climber/523/alexander-huber" rel="noopener noreferrer">Alexander</a> and <a href="/climber/1063/thomas-huber" rel="noopener noreferrer">Thomas Huber</a> followed meticulous preparation, with every hold ticked and every gear placement labelled. </p>
<p>Just a few days after the first ascent, British teenagers <a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> and <a href="/climber/1193/patch-hammond" rel="noopener noreferrer">Patch Hammond</a> made an extraordinary almost-onsight ascent of the route for their first big wall.</p>
<p>The route incorporates parts of Continental Drift (a mixed free and aid route) then largely follows the <a href="/climb/6234/north-america-wall" rel="noopener noreferrer">North America Wall</a> climbed free in its upper half. Until discovery of the Pineapple Express Variation all ascents used a short pendulum to overcome a 10m blank section. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 77 | 26th June 2026 | 09:24:08 UTC | TdG | climb | El Niño | notes | |
|
Before
Only the third ever route to be free climbed on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), after [Salathé Wall](/climb/814/salathé-wall) and [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose). Incorporates parts of Continental Drift (a mixed free and aid route) then largely follows the [North America Wall](/climb/6234/north-america-wall) climbed free in its upper half. Until discovery of the Pineapple Express Variation all ascents used a short pendulum to overcome a 10m blank section.
### References
[1] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800)
After
Only the third ever route to be free climbed on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), after [Salathé Wall](/climb/814/salathé-wall) and [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose).
The first ascent by [Alexander](/climber/523/alexander-huber) and [Thomas Huber](/climber/1063/thomas-huber) followed meticulous preparation, with every hold ticked and every gear placement labelled.
Just a few days after the first ascent, British teenagers [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) and [Patch Hammond](/climber/1193/patch-hammond) made an extraordinary almost-onsight ascent of the route for their first big wall.
The route incorporates parts of Continental Drift (a mixed free and aid route) then largely follows the [North America Wall](/climb/6234/north-america-wall) climbed free in its upper half. Until discovery of the Pineapple Express Variation all ascents used a short pendulum to overcome a 10m blank section.
### References
[1] [https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800)
Diff
--- before
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| 78 | 26th June 2026 | 09:04:27 UTC | TdG | climb | Strawberries | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>A defining route of the <a href="/climber/532/ron-fawcett" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ron Fawcett</a> era, and one of the most prized onsights in the UK. The route tackles a tasty crackline, followed by a fruity runout up the <a href="/climb/1379/vector" rel="noopener noreferrer">Vector</a> headwall.</p>
<p>Fawcett initially tried the route in 1978; despite remaining unclimbed, Chris Griffiths' photo of the route was the cream of the crop, earning the cover of the 1978 <em>Tremadog and the Moelwyns</em> Climbers Club guidebook. [2][3]</p>
<p>The project lay unchallenged for 18 months until <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> was spotted making attempts. Fawcett got wind of this and returned, finding the route to be just as hard-going as before. On day one, he climbed ground-up, but ran out of juice. On day two, feeling the pressure to get the project done, he abseiled down to pre-place and pre-clip the gear he'd established the day before. Seeing red, a desperate fight ensued:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Here I flagged my left foot behind my right and moved my left hand up again to a better hold. Time to fight in another runner. I was, as always on Strawberries, on the verge of falling off, completely consumed by the climbing but needing to remember where I was, conscious that I couldn't get too high without finding another piece of protection. Small wires in those days weren't as positive as they are now and I had to bear in mind that some of the gear might fail. From the left-hand crack I reached powerfully up to a shallow pocket, pumped out of my mind and now desperate to finish. I couldn't bear the thought of failing again so close to the top. I hauled myself up, and made one last thin move to reach good holds before a small groove just below the top. Here I hung off a jug, levering out almost horizontally against my braced feet, while I pulled myself together sufficiently to finish the route. [4]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Fawcett graded the route E5 7a. Today the route is graded E7, with climbing around the 7b+/7c mark. He named it Strawberries, as an accompaniment to the neighbouring route on the headwall, <a href="/climb/1557/cream" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cream</a> (E4). As a project, it had been known as Peaches. Other fruity dessert-themed names proved irresistible (<a href="/climb/1037/dream-topping" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dream Topping</a> (E7), <a href="/climb/1061/bananas" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bananas</a> (E5)).</p>
<p><a href="/climber/1064/stefan-glowacz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Stefan Glowacz</a> made the historic first onsight of the route in 1987, running it out with no gear above the crack. Glowacz' extraordinary onsight effort would not be matched until <a href="/climber/778/jorg-verhoeven" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jorg Verhoeven</a> succeeded in 2011. <a href="/climber/129/steve-mcclure" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve McClure</a> was the first British climber to onsight the route in 2014. </p>
<p>Nearly five decades on, Strawberries remains as fresh as ever.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1]
<a href="/climber/606/jack-geldard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jack Geldard</a> on the history of the route <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411731" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411731</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411732" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411732</a></p>
<p>[4]Ed Douglas, <em>Ron Fawcett: Rock Athlete</em>, Vertebrate Publishing, 2010</p>
After
<p>A defining route of the <a href="/climber/532/ron-fawcett" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ron Fawcett</a> era, and one of the most prized onsights in the UK. The route tackles a tasty crackline, followed by a fruity runout up the <a href="/climb/1379/vector" rel="noopener noreferrer">Vector</a> headwall.</p>
<p>Fawcett initially tried the route in 1978; despite remaining unclimbed, Chris Griffiths' photo of the route was the cream of the crop, earning the cover of the 1978 <em>Tremadog and the Moelwyns</em> Climbers Club guidebook. [2][3]</p>
<p>The project lay unchallenged for 18 months until <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> was spotted making attempts. Fawcett got wind of this and returned, finding the route to be just as hard-going as before. On day one, he climbed ground-up, but ran out of juice. On day two, feeling the pressure to get the project done, he abseiled down to pre-place and pre-clip the gear he'd established the day before. Seeing red, a desperate fight ensued:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Here I flagged my left foot behind my right and moved my left hand up again to a better hold. Time to fight in another runner. I was, as always on Strawberries, on the verge of falling off, completely consumed by the climbing but needing to remember where I was, conscious that I couldn't get too high without finding another piece of protection. Small wires in those days weren't as positive as they are now and I had to bear in mind that some of the gear might fail. From the left-hand crack I reached powerfully up to a shallow pocket, pumped out of my mind and now desperate to finish. I couldn't bear the thought of failing again so close to the top. I hauled myself up, and made one last thin move to reach good holds before a small groove just below the top. Here I hung off a jug, levering out almost horizontally against my braced feet, while I pulled myself together sufficiently to finish the route. [4]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Fawcett graded the route E5 7a. Today the route is graded E7, with climbing around the 7b+/7c mark. He named it Strawberries, as an accompaniment to the neighbouring route on the headwall, <a href="/climb/1557/cream" rel="noopener noreferrer">Cream</a> (E4). As a project, it had been known as Peaches. Other fruity dessert-themed names proved irresistible (<a href="/climb/1037/dream-topping" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dream Topping</a> (E7), <a href="/climb/1061/bananas" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bananas</a> (E5)).</p>
<p><a href="/climber/1064/stefan-glowacz" rel="noopener noreferrer">Stefan Glowacz</a> made the historic first onsight of the route in 1987, running it out with no gear above the crack. Glowacz' extraordinary onsight effort would not be matched until <a href="/climber/778/jorg-verhoeven" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jorg Verhoeven</a> succeeded in 2011. <a href="/climber/129/steve-mcclure" rel="noopener noreferrer">Steve McClure</a> was the first British climber to onsight the route in 2014. Nearly five decades on, Strawberries remains as fresh as ever.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1]
<a href="/climber/606/jack-geldard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jack Geldard</a> on the history of the route <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411731" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411731</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411732" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411732</a></p>
<p>[4]Ed Douglas, <em>Ron Fawcett: Rock Athlete</em>, Vertebrate Publishing, 2010</p>
|
|||||||
| 79 | 26th June 2026 | 09:04:27 UTC | TdG | climb | Strawberries | notes | |
|
Before
A defining route of the [Ron Fawcett](/climber/532/ron-fawcett) era, and one of the most prized onsights in the UK. The route tackles a tasty crackline, followed by a fruity runout up the [Vector](/climb/1379/vector) headwall.
Fawcett initially tried the route in 1978; despite remaining unclimbed, Chris Griffiths' photo of the route was the cream of the crop, earning the cover of the 1978 *Tremadog and the Moelwyns* Climbers Club guidebook. [2][3]
The project lay unchallenged for 18 months until [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) was spotted making attempts. Fawcett got wind of this and returned, finding the route to be just as hard-going as before. On day one, he climbed ground-up, but ran out of juice. On day two, feeling the pressure to get the project done, he abseiled down to pre-place and pre-clip the gear he'd established the day before. Seeing red, a desperate fight ensued:
>Here I flagged my left foot behind my right and moved my left hand up again to a better hold. Time to fight in another runner. I was, as always on Strawberries, on the verge of falling off, completely consumed by the climbing but needing to remember where I was, conscious that I couldn't get too high without finding another piece of protection. Small wires in those days weren't as positive as they are now and I had to bear in mind that some of the gear might fail. From the left-hand crack I reached powerfully up to a shallow pocket, pumped out of my mind and now desperate to finish. I couldn't bear the thought of failing again so close to the top. I hauled myself up, and made one last thin move to reach good holds before a small groove just below the top. Here I hung off a jug, levering out almost horizontally against my braced feet, while I pulled myself together sufficiently to finish the route. [4]
Fawcett graded the route E5 7a. Today the route is graded E7, with climbing around the 7b+/7c mark. He named it Strawberries, as an accompaniment to the neighbouring route on the headwall, [Cream](/climb/1557/cream) (E4). As a project, it had been known as Peaches. Other fruity dessert-themed names proved irresistible ([Dream Topping](/climb/1037/dream-topping) (E7), [Bananas](/climb/1061/bananas) (E5)).
[Stefan Glowacz](/climber/1064/stefan-glowacz) made the historic first onsight of the route in 1987, running it out with no gear above the crack. Glowacz' extraordinary onsight effort would not be matched until [Jorg Verhoeven](/climber/778/jorg-verhoeven) succeeded in 2011. [Steve McClure](/climber/129/steve-mcclure) was the first British climber to onsight the route in 2014.
Nearly five decades on, Strawberries remains as fresh as ever.
### References
[1]
[Jack Geldard](/climber/606/jack-geldard) on the history of the route [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117)
[2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411731](https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411731)
[3] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411732](https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411732)
[4]Ed Douglas, *Ron Fawcett: Rock Athlete*, Vertebrate Publishing, 2010
After
A defining route of the [Ron Fawcett](/climber/532/ron-fawcett) era, and one of the most prized onsights in the UK. The route tackles a tasty crackline, followed by a fruity runout up the [Vector](/climb/1379/vector) headwall.
Fawcett initially tried the route in 1978; despite remaining unclimbed, Chris Griffiths' photo of the route was the cream of the crop, earning the cover of the 1978 *Tremadog and the Moelwyns* Climbers Club guidebook. [2][3]
The project lay unchallenged for 18 months until [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) was spotted making attempts. Fawcett got wind of this and returned, finding the route to be just as hard-going as before. On day one, he climbed ground-up, but ran out of juice. On day two, feeling the pressure to get the project done, he abseiled down to pre-place and pre-clip the gear he'd established the day before. Seeing red, a desperate fight ensued:
>Here I flagged my left foot behind my right and moved my left hand up again to a better hold. Time to fight in another runner. I was, as always on Strawberries, on the verge of falling off, completely consumed by the climbing but needing to remember where I was, conscious that I couldn't get too high without finding another piece of protection. Small wires in those days weren't as positive as they are now and I had to bear in mind that some of the gear might fail. From the left-hand crack I reached powerfully up to a shallow pocket, pumped out of my mind and now desperate to finish. I couldn't bear the thought of failing again so close to the top. I hauled myself up, and made one last thin move to reach good holds before a small groove just below the top. Here I hung off a jug, levering out almost horizontally against my braced feet, while I pulled myself together sufficiently to finish the route. [4]
Fawcett graded the route E5 7a. Today the route is graded E7, with climbing around the 7b+/7c mark. He named it Strawberries, as an accompaniment to the neighbouring route on the headwall, [Cream](/climb/1557/cream) (E4). As a project, it had been known as Peaches. Other fruity dessert-themed names proved irresistible ([Dream Topping](/climb/1037/dream-topping) (E7), [Bananas](/climb/1061/bananas) (E5)).
[Stefan Glowacz](/climber/1064/stefan-glowacz) made the historic first onsight of the route in 1987, running it out with no gear above the crack. Glowacz' extraordinary onsight effort would not be matched until [Jorg Verhoeven](/climber/778/jorg-verhoeven) succeeded in 2011. [Steve McClure](/climber/129/steve-mcclure) was the first British climber to onsight the route in 2014. Nearly five decades on, Strawberries remains as fresh as ever.
### References
[1]
[Jack Geldard](/climber/606/jack-geldard) on the history of the route [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117)
[2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411731](https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411731)
[3] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411732](https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411732)
[4]Ed Douglas, *Ron Fawcett: Rock Athlete*, Vertebrate Publishing, 2010
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 80 | 26th June 2026 | 09:03:42 UTC | TdG | climb | Strawberries | notes | |
|
Before
A defining route of the [Ron Fawcett](/climber/532/ron-fawcett) era, and one of the most prized onsights in the UK. The route tackles a tasty crackline, followed by a fruity runout up the [Vector](/climb/1379/vector) headwall.
Fawcett initially tried the route in 1978; despite remaining unclimbed, Chris Griffiths' photo of the route was the cream of the crop, earning the cover of the 1978 *Tremadog and the Moelwyns* Climbers Club guidebook. [2][3]
The project lay unchallenged for 18 months until [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) was spotted making attempts. Fawcett got wind of this and returned, finding the route to be just as hard-going as before. On day one, he climbed ground-up, but ran out of juice. On day two, feeling the pressure to get the project done, he abseiled down to pre-place and pre-clip the gear he'd established the day before. Seeing red, a desperate fight ensued:
>Here I flagged my left foot behind my right and moved my left hand up again to a better hold. Time to fight in another runner. I was, as always on Strawberries, on the verge of falling off, completely consumed by the climbing but needing to remember where I was, conscious that I couldn't get too high without finding another piece of protection. Small wires in those days weren't as positive as they are now and I had to bear in mind that some of the gear might fail. From the left-hand crack I reached powerfully up to a shallow pocket, pumped out of my mind and now desperate to finish. I couldn't bear the thought of failing again so close to the top. I hauled myself up, and made one last thin move to reach good holds before a small groove just below the top. Here I hung off a jug, levering out almost horizontally against my braced feet, while I pulled myself together sufficiently to finish the route. [4]
Fawcett graded the route E5 7a. Today the route is graded E7, with climbing around the 7b+/7c mark. He named it Strawberries, as an accompaniment to the neighbouring route on the headwall, [Cream](/climb/1557/cream) (E4). As a project, it had been known as Peaches. Other fruity dessert themed names proved irresistible ([Dream Topping](/climb/1037/dream-topping) (E7), [Bananas](/climb/1061/bananas) (E5)).
[Stefan Glowacz](/climber/1064/stefan-glowacz) made the historic first onsight of the route in 1987, running it out with no gear above the crack. Glowacz' extraordinary onsight effort would not be matched until [Jorg Verhoeven](/climber/778/jorg-verhoeven) succeeded in 2011. [Steve McClure](/climber/129/steve-mcclure) was the first British climber to onsight the route in 2014.
Nearly five decades on, Strawberries remains as fresh as ever.
### References
[1]
[Jack Geldard](/climber/606/jack-geldard) on the history of the route [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117)
[2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411731](https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411731)
[3] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411732](https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411732)
[4]Ed Douglas, *Ron Fawcett: Rock Athlete*, Vertebrate Publishing, 2010
After
A defining route of the [Ron Fawcett](/climber/532/ron-fawcett) era, and one of the most prized onsights in the UK. The route tackles a tasty crackline, followed by a fruity runout up the [Vector](/climb/1379/vector) headwall.
Fawcett initially tried the route in 1978; despite remaining unclimbed, Chris Griffiths' photo of the route was the cream of the crop, earning the cover of the 1978 *Tremadog and the Moelwyns* Climbers Club guidebook. [2][3]
The project lay unchallenged for 18 months until [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) was spotted making attempts. Fawcett got wind of this and returned, finding the route to be just as hard-going as before. On day one, he climbed ground-up, but ran out of juice. On day two, feeling the pressure to get the project done, he abseiled down to pre-place and pre-clip the gear he'd established the day before. Seeing red, a desperate fight ensued:
>Here I flagged my left foot behind my right and moved my left hand up again to a better hold. Time to fight in another runner. I was, as always on Strawberries, on the verge of falling off, completely consumed by the climbing but needing to remember where I was, conscious that I couldn't get too high without finding another piece of protection. Small wires in those days weren't as positive as they are now and I had to bear in mind that some of the gear might fail. From the left-hand crack I reached powerfully up to a shallow pocket, pumped out of my mind and now desperate to finish. I couldn't bear the thought of failing again so close to the top. I hauled myself up, and made one last thin move to reach good holds before a small groove just below the top. Here I hung off a jug, levering out almost horizontally against my braced feet, while I pulled myself together sufficiently to finish the route. [4]
Fawcett graded the route E5 7a. Today the route is graded E7, with climbing around the 7b+/7c mark. He named it Strawberries, as an accompaniment to the neighbouring route on the headwall, [Cream](/climb/1557/cream) (E4). As a project, it had been known as Peaches. Other fruity dessert-themed names proved irresistible ([Dream Topping](/climb/1037/dream-topping) (E7), [Bananas](/climb/1061/bananas) (E5)).
[Stefan Glowacz](/climber/1064/stefan-glowacz) made the historic first onsight of the route in 1987, running it out with no gear above the crack. Glowacz' extraordinary onsight effort would not be matched until [Jorg Verhoeven](/climber/778/jorg-verhoeven) succeeded in 2011. [Steve McClure](/climber/129/steve-mcclure) was the first British climber to onsight the route in 2014.
Nearly five decades on, Strawberries remains as fresh as ever.
### References
[1]
[Jack Geldard](/climber/606/jack-geldard) on the history of the route [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117)
[2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411731](https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411731)
[3] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411732](https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411732)
[4]Ed Douglas, *Ron Fawcett: Rock Athlete*, Vertebrate Publishing, 2010
Diff
--- before
|
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