TdG

	Country	Contributions	Between	Climbers	Crags	Climbs	Ascents
1	United Kingdom	10135	22nd May 2025 – 27th June 2026	106	13	549	986
2	France	3310	22nd May 2025 – 25th June 2026	30	13	166	318
3	USA	1660	30th July 2025 – 26th June 2026	24	56	156	82
4	Japan	1433	19th July 2025 – 23rd June 2026	14	25	98	70
5	Spain	314	31st July 2025 – 25th June 2026	3	9	33	13
6	New Zealand	214	19th August 2025 – 26th June 2026	1	1	15	13
7	Switzerland	194	31st July 2025 – 26th June 2026	2	5	20	12
8	Canada	146	10th September 2025 – 10th June 2026	1	8	23	2
9	Italy	146	12th August 2025 – 17th May 2026	1	7	16	6
10	Norway	126	6th September 2025 – 16th June 2026	1	4	9	6

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
381	20th June 2026	08:05:51 UTC	TdG	climb	Burden of Dreams	notes
Before The first 9A boulder problem in the world. [Nalle Hukkataival](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world ([Toru Nakajima](/climber/715/toru--nakajima), [Shawn Raboutou](/climber/671/shawn-raboutou) and [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) to name a few) before [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) made the second ascent in April 2023. The problem was initially found by [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen): > At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [[Anton Johansson](/climber/1555/anton-johansson)] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take [Nalle](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) there and the rest is history. [1] In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing. ### References [1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/) After The first 9A boulder problem in the world. [Nalle Hukkataival](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world ([Toru Nakajima](/climber/715/toru--nakajima), [Shawn Raboutou](/climber/671/shawn-raboutou) and [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) to name a few) before [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) made the second ascent in April 2023. The problem was initially found by [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen): > At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [[Anton Johansson](/climber/1555/anton-johansson)] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take [Nalle](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) there and the rest is history. [1] In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing. At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. ### References [1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -6,6 +6,10 @@ In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing. +At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. + +The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. + ### References [1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/)
382	20th June 2026	08:05:51 UTC	TdG	climb	Burden of Dreams	notes_pretty
Before <p>The first 9A boulder problem in the world. <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival">Nalle Hukkataival</a> made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (<a href="/climber/715/toru--nakajima">Toru Nakajima</a>, <a href="/climber/671/shawn-raboutou">Shawn Raboutou</a> and <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts">Aidan Roberts</a> to name a few) before <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi">Will Bosi</a> made the second ascent in April 2023.</p> <p>The problem was initially found by <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen">Marko Siivinen</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [<a href="/climber/1555/anton-johansson">Anton Johansson</a>] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival">Nalle</a> there and the rest is history. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts">Aidan Roberts</a> made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with <a href="https://coreclimbing.co.uk/">Core Climbing</a> to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi">Will Bosi</a> trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen">Marko Siivinen</a> on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/</a></p> After <p>The first 9A boulder problem in the world. <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle Hukkataival</a> made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (<a href="/climber/715/toru--nakajima" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toru Nakajima</a>, <a href="/climber/671/shawn-raboutou" rel="noopener noreferrer">Shawn Raboutou</a> and <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> to name a few) before <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> made the second ascent in April 2023.</p> <p>The problem was initially found by <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [<a href="/climber/1555/anton-johansson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Anton Johansson</a>] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle</a> there and the rest is history. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with <a href="https://coreclimbing.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer">Core Climbing</a> to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.</p> <p>At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. </p> <p>The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a> on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/</a></p>
383	20th June 2026	07:55:20 UTC	TdG	climber	John Gill	notes_pretty
Before <p>John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.</p> <p>With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. </p> <p>For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p> <p>When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins" rel="noopener noreferrer">Royal Robbins</a> said of it:</p> <blockquote> <p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p> </blockquote> <p>Gill has researched bouldering history and his website <a href="http://johngill.net" rel="noopener noreferrer">johngill.net</a> remains an invaluable resource. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pat Ament</a>, <a href="/climber/721/john-gill" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Gill</a>, <a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.</p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p> <p>[5] <em>Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer</em>, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in <a href="/library/11132/mountain-110" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mountain 110</a> <a href="/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt" rel="noopener noreferrer">/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt</a></p> After <p>John Gill is one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.</p> <p>With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. </p> <p>For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p> <p>When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins" rel="noopener noreferrer">Royal Robbins</a> said of it:</p> <blockquote> <p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p> </blockquote> <p>Gill has researched bouldering history and his website <a href="http://johngill.net" rel="noopener noreferrer">johngill.net</a> remains an invaluable resource. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pat Ament</a>, <a href="/climber/721/john-gill" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Gill</a>, <a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.</p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p> <p>[5] <em>Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer</em>, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in <a href="/library/11132/mountain-110" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mountain 110</a> <a href="/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt" rel="noopener noreferrer">/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt</a></p>
384	20th June 2026	07:55:20 UTC	TdG	climber	John Gill	notes
Before John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right. With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world. When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it: > I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it. Gill has researched bouldering history and his website [johngill.net](http://johngill.net) remains an invaluable resource. ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/) [2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018. [3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU) [4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M) [5] Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in [Mountain 110](/library/11132/mountain-110) [/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt](/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt) After John Gill is one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right. With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world. When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it: > I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it. Gill has researched bouldering history and his website [johngill.net](http://johngill.net) remains an invaluable resource. ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/) [2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018. [3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU) [4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M) [5] Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in [Mountain 110](/library/11132/mountain-110) [/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt](/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right. +John Gill is one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right. With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk.
385	20th June 2026	07:55:03 UTC	TdG	climber	John Gill	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
386	20th June 2026	07:53:53 UTC	TdG	climber	John Gill	notes
Before John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right. With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing. In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world. When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it > I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it. ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/) [2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018. [3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU) [4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M) [5] Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in [Mountain 110](/library/11132/mountain-110) [/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt](/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt) After John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right. With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world. When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it: > I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it. Gill has researched bouldering history and his website [johngill.net](http://johngill.net) remains an invaluable resource. ### References [1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/) [2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018. [3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU) [4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M) [5] Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in [Mountain 110](/library/11132/mountain-110) [/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt](/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,12 +1,14 @@ -John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right. +John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right. -With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing. +With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. -In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world. +For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world. -When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it +When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it: > I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it. + +Gill has researched bouldering history and his website [johngill.net](http://johngill.net) remains an invaluable resource. ### References
387	20th June 2026	07:53:53 UTC	TdG	climber	John Gill	notes_pretty
Before <p>John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.</p> <p>With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing.</p> <p>In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p> <p>When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins">Royal Robbins</a> said of it</p> <blockquote> <p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament">Pat Ament</a>, <a href="/climber/721/john-gill">John Gill</a>, <a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.</p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p> <p>[5] <em>Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer</em>, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in <a href="/library/11132/mountain-110">Mountain 110</a> <a href="/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt">/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt</a></p> After <p>John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.</p> <p>With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. </p> <p>For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p> <p>When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins" rel="noopener noreferrer">Royal Robbins</a> said of it:</p> <blockquote> <p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p> </blockquote> <p>Gill has researched bouldering history and his website <a href="http://johngill.net" rel="noopener noreferrer">johngill.net</a> remains an invaluable resource. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pat Ament</a>, <a href="/climber/721/john-gill" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Gill</a>, <a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.</p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p> <p>[5] <em>Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer</em>, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in <a href="/library/11132/mountain-110" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mountain 110</a> <a href="/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt" rel="noopener noreferrer">/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt</a></p>
388	20th June 2026	07:39:36 UTC	TdG	climber	Ray Jardine	notes_pretty
Before <p>Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device" rel="noopener noreferrer">cams</a> which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.</p> <p>Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as <a href="/climb/523/the-phoenix" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Phoenix</a> in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.</p> <p>On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack <a href="/climb/2709/ray's-roof" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray's Roof</a>, grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.</p> <p>More controversially he was also involved in chipping on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a>, in particular in an early attempt to free climb <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> he chipped holds on what is now known as <em>The Jardine Traverse</em> as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/</a></p> After <p>Ray Jardine is an American rock climber and pioneer of hard crack climbing. However, perhaps his most significant contribution to climbing was his invention of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device" rel="noopener noreferrer">cams</a>, ushering in a revolution in trad climbing, and making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.</p> <p>Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as <a href="/climb/523/the-phoenix" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Phoenix</a> in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.</p> <p>On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack <a href="/climb/2709/ray's-roof" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray's Roof</a>, grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.</p> <p>More controversially he was also involved in chipping on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a>, in particular in an early attempt to free climb <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> he chipped holds on what is now known as <em>The Jardine Traverse</em> as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/</a></p>
389	20th June 2026	07:39:36 UTC	TdG	climber	Ray Jardine	notes
Before Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible. Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world. On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack [Ray's Roof](/climb/2709/ray's-roof), grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated. More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as The Jardine Traverse as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier. ### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/) After Ray Jardine is an American rock climber and pioneer of hard crack climbing. However, perhaps his most significant contribution to climbing was his invention of [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device), ushering in a revolution in trad climbing, and making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible. Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world. On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack [Ray's Roof](/climb/2709/ray's-roof), grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated. More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as The Jardine Traverse as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier. ### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible. +Ray Jardine is an American rock climber and pioneer of hard crack climbing. However, perhaps his most significant contribution to climbing was his invention of [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device), ushering in a revolution in trad climbing, and making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible. Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.
390	20th June 2026	07:37:05 UTC	TdG	climber	Ray Jardine	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
391	20th June 2026	07:36:32 UTC	TdG	climber	Ray Jardine	notes_pretty
Before <p>Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device">Cams</a> which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.</p> <p>Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as <a href="/climb/523/the-phoenix">The Phoenix</a> in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.</p> <p>More controversially he was also involved in chipping on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan">El Capitan</a>, in particular in an early attempt to free climb <a href="/climb/990/the-nose">The Nose</a> he chipped holds on what is now known as <em>The Jardine Traverse</em> as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/">https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/</a></p> After <p>Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device" rel="noopener noreferrer">cams</a> which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.</p> <p>Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as <a href="/climb/523/the-phoenix" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Phoenix</a> in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.</p> <p>On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack <a href="/climb/2709/ray's-roof" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray's Roof</a>, grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.</p> <p>More controversially he was also involved in chipping on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a>, in particular in an early attempt to free climb <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> he chipped holds on what is now known as <em>The Jardine Traverse</em> as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/</a></p>
392	20th June 2026	07:36:32 UTC	TdG	climber	Ray Jardine	notes
Before Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [Cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible. Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world. More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as The Jardine Traverse as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier. ### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/) After Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible. Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world. On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack [Ray's Roof](/climb/2709/ray's-roof), grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated. More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as The Jardine Traverse as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier. ### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,8 +1,12 @@ -Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [Cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible. +Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible. Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world. +On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack [Ray's Roof](/climb/2709/ray's-roof), grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated. + More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as The Jardine Traverse as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier. + + ### References
393	20th June 2026	07:30:49 UTC	TdG	climber	Aleister Crowley	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
394	20th June 2026	07:28:31 UTC	TdG	climber	Shauna Coxsey	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
395	20th June 2026	07:26:53 UTC	TdG	climber	Shauna Coxsey	notes_pretty
Before <p>Shauna Coxsey is a British boulderer and one of the strongest female climbers in the UK. She has won two bouldering world cups, firstly in 2016 and then in 2017.</p> <p>While she was primarily a competition climber in her early career (up to the 2020 Tokyo olympics) she did occasionally climb outside, with highlights such as the first female ascent of <a href="/climb/123/new-base-line">New Base Line</a> 8B+ in 2014, making her one of a handful of women to have climbed 8B+ at the time.</p> <p>Since retiring from competitions and having a child she has switched focus to bouldering outdoors.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/">https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g">https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g</a></p> After <p>Shauna Coxsey is one of the most successful comp climbers, and most accomplished outdoor boulderers, in the UK. She has won two bouldering world cups, in 2016 and 2017 and went on to compete in the Tokyo Olympics, held in 2021. Since retiring from comps she has excelled at outdoor bouldering. </p> <p>While she was primarily a competition climber for the first part of her career, she did occasionally climb outside, with highlights such as the first female ascent of <a href="/climb/123/new-base-line" rel="noopener noreferrer">New Base Line</a> 8B+ in 2014, making her one of a handful of women to have climbed 8B+ at the time.</p> <p>Since retiring from competitions she has made rapid repeats of a string of 8B and harder boulders. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g</a></p>
396	20th June 2026	07:26:53 UTC	TdG	climber	Shauna Coxsey	notes
Before Shauna Coxsey is a British boulderer and one of the strongest female climbers in the UK. She has won two bouldering world cups, firstly in 2016 and then in 2017. While she was primarily a competition climber in her early career (up to the 2020 Tokyo olympics) she did occasionally climb outside, with highlights such as the first female ascent of [New Base Line](/climb/123/new-base-line) 8B+ in 2014, making her one of a handful of women to have climbed 8B+ at the time. Since retiring from competitions and having a child she has switched focus to bouldering outdoors. ### References [1] [https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/](https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/) [2] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g](https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g) After Shauna Coxsey is one of the most successful comp climbers, and most accomplished outdoor boulderers, in the UK. She has won two bouldering world cups, in 2016 and 2017 and went on to compete in the Tokyo Olympics, held in 2021. Since retiring from comps she has excelled at outdoor bouldering. While she was primarily a competition climber for the first part of her career, she did occasionally climb outside, with highlights such as the first female ascent of [New Base Line](/climb/123/new-base-line) 8B+ in 2014, making her one of a handful of women to have climbed 8B+ at the time. Since retiring from competitions she has made rapid repeats of a string of 8B and harder boulders. ### References [1] [https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/](https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/) [2] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g](https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,8 +1,8 @@ -Shauna Coxsey is a British boulderer and one of the strongest female climbers in the UK. She has won two bouldering world cups, firstly in 2016 and then in 2017. +Shauna Coxsey is one of the most successful comp climbers, and most accomplished outdoor boulderers, in the UK. She has won two bouldering world cups, in 2016 and 2017 and went on to compete in the Tokyo Olympics, held in 2021. Since retiring from comps she has excelled at outdoor bouldering. -While she was primarily a competition climber in her early career (up to the 2020 Tokyo olympics) she did occasionally climb outside, with highlights such as the first female ascent of [New Base Line](/climb/123/new-base-line) 8B+ in 2014, making her one of a handful of women to have climbed 8B+ at the time. +While she was primarily a competition climber for the first part of her career, she did occasionally climb outside, with highlights such as the first female ascent of [New Base Line](/climb/123/new-base-line) 8B+ in 2014, making her one of a handful of women to have climbed 8B+ at the time. -Since retiring from competitions and having a child she has switched focus to bouldering outdoors. +Since retiring from competitions she has made rapid repeats of a string of 8B and harder boulders. ### References
397	19th June 2026	22:13:57 UTC	TdG	climber	Janja Garnbret	featurable
Before `false` After `true`
398	19th June 2026	22:13:04 UTC	TdG	climber	Janja Garnbret	notes
Before The most successful competition climber of all time, the first gold medalist in climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, a result repeated at Paris 2024. Primarily focused on competitions, Janja has also made very quick ascents of hard Swiss boulder testpieces, flashed 8c+, and redpointed 9b+ with her ascent of [Bibliographie](/climb/466/bibliographie) (9b+). ### References [1] A profile of Janja from Reel Rock [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY) [2] Winning the olympic gold medal in Tokyo 2020 [https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/) [3] Interview with [Natalie Berry](/climber/411/natalie-berry) for [UKClimbing.com](https://www.ukclimbing.com), 3rd May 2022 [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458) [4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI) [5] Interview with John Bergman for climbing.com, August 2024 [https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/](https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/) [6] Video with [Magnus Midtbø](/climber/505/magnus-midtbø), July 2025 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM) After The most successful competition climber of all time, the first gold medalist in climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, a result repeated at Paris 2024. Primarily focused on competitions, her achievements on rock are no less impressive, making very quick ascents of hard Swiss boulder testpieces, flashing 8c+, and redpointing 9b+ with her ascent of [Bibliographie](/climb/466/bibliographie) (9b+). ### References [1] A profile of Janja from Reel Rock [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY) [2] Winning the olympic gold medal in Tokyo 2020 [https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/) [3] Interview with [Natalie Berry](/climber/411/natalie-berry) for [UKClimbing.com](https://www.ukclimbing.com), 3rd May 2022 [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458) [4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI) [5] Interview with John Bergman for climbing.com, August 2024 [https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/](https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/) [6] Video with [Magnus Midtbø](/climber/505/magnus-midtbø), July 2025 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ The most successful competition climber of all time, the first gold medalist in climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, a result repeated at Paris 2024. -Primarily focused on competitions, Janja has also made very quick ascents of hard Swiss boulder testpieces, flashed 8c+, and redpointed 9b+ with her ascent of [Bibliographie](/climb/466/bibliographie) (9b+). +Primarily focused on competitions, her achievements on rock are no less impressive, making very quick ascents of hard Swiss boulder testpieces, flashing 8c+, and redpointing 9b+ with her ascent of [Bibliographie](/climb/466/bibliographie) (9b+). ### References
399	19th June 2026	22:13:04 UTC	TdG	climber	Janja Garnbret	notes_pretty
Before <p>The most successful competition climber of all time, the first gold medalist in climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, a result repeated at Paris 2024. </p> <p>Primarily focused on competitions, Janja has also made very quick ascents of hard Swiss boulder testpieces, flashed 8c+, and redpointed 9b+ with her ascent of <a href="/climb/466/bibliographie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bibliographie</a> (9b+). </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] A profile of Janja from Reel Rock <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY</a></p> <p>[2] Winning the olympic gold medal in Tokyo 2020 <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/</a></p> <p>[3] Interview with <a href="/climber/411/natalie-berry" rel="noopener noreferrer">Natalie Berry</a> for <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com" rel="noopener noreferrer">UKClimbing.com</a>, 3rd May 2022 <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI</a></p> <p>[5] Interview with John Bergman for climbing.com, August 2024 <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/</a></p> <p>[6] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, July 2025 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM</a></p> After <p>The most successful competition climber of all time, the first gold medalist in climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, a result repeated at Paris 2024. </p> <p>Primarily focused on competitions, her achievements on rock are no less impressive, making very quick ascents of hard Swiss boulder testpieces, flashing 8c+, and redpointing 9b+ with her ascent of <a href="/climb/466/bibliographie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bibliographie</a> (9b+). </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] A profile of Janja from Reel Rock <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY</a></p> <p>[2] Winning the olympic gold medal in Tokyo 2020 <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/</a></p> <p>[3] Interview with <a href="/climber/411/natalie-berry" rel="noopener noreferrer">Natalie Berry</a> for <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com" rel="noopener noreferrer">UKClimbing.com</a>, 3rd May 2022 <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI</a></p> <p>[5] Interview with John Bergman for climbing.com, August 2024 <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/</a></p> <p>[6] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, July 2025 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM</a></p>
400	19th June 2026	22:11:18 UTC	TdG	climber	Janja Garnbret	notes_pretty
Before <p>The most successful competition climber of all time and first gold medalist in climbing in the Tokyo 2020 olympics.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] A profile of Janja from Reel Rock <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY</a></p> <p>[2] Winning the olympic gold medal in Tokyo 2020 <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/</a></p> <p>[3] Interview with <a href="/climber/411/natalie-berry" rel="noopener noreferrer">Natalie Berry</a> for <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com" rel="noopener noreferrer">UKClimbing.com</a>, 3rd May 2022 <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI</a></p> <p>[5] Interview with John Bergman for climbing.com, August 2024 <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/</a></p> <p>[6] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, July 2025 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM</a></p> After <p>The most successful competition climber of all time, the first gold medalist in climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, a result repeated at Paris 2024. </p> <p>Primarily focused on competitions, Janja has also made very quick ascents of hard Swiss boulder testpieces, flashed 8c+, and redpointed 9b+ with her ascent of <a href="/climb/466/bibliographie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bibliographie</a> (9b+). </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] A profile of Janja from Reel Rock <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY</a></p> <p>[2] Winning the olympic gold medal in Tokyo 2020 <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/</a></p> <p>[3] Interview with <a href="/climber/411/natalie-berry" rel="noopener noreferrer">Natalie Berry</a> for <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com" rel="noopener noreferrer">UKClimbing.com</a>, 3rd May 2022 <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI</a></p> <p>[5] Interview with John Bergman for climbing.com, August 2024 <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/</a></p> <p>[6] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, July 2025 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM</a></p>

Before

The first 9A boulder problem in the world. [Nalle Hukkataival](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world ([Toru Nakajima](/climber/715/toru--nakajima), [Shawn Raboutou](/climber/671/shawn-raboutou) and [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) to name a few) before [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) made the second ascent in April 2023.

The problem was initially found by [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen):

> At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [[Anton Johansson](/climber/1555/anton-johansson)] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take [Nalle](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival)  there and the rest is history. [1]

In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.

### References

[1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/)

After

The first 9A boulder problem in the world. [Nalle Hukkataival](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival) made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world ([Toru Nakajima](/climber/715/toru--nakajima), [Shawn Raboutou](/climber/671/shawn-raboutou) and [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) to name a few) before [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) made the second ascent in April 2023.

The problem was initially found by [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen):

> At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [[Anton Johansson](/climber/1555/anton-johansson)] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take [Nalle](/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival)  there and the rest is history. [1]

In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.

At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. 

The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. 

### References

[1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -6,6 +6,10 @@

 

 In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. [Aidan Roberts](/climber/227/aidan-roberts) made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with [Core Climbing](https://coreclimbing.co.uk/) to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.

 

+At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. 

+

+The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. 

+

 ### References

 

 [1] [Marko Siivinen](/climber/1554/marko-siivinen) on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. [https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/)

Before

<p>The first 9A boulder problem in the world. <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival">Nalle Hukkataival</a> made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (<a href="/climber/715/toru--nakajima">Toru Nakajima</a>, <a href="/climber/671/shawn-raboutou">Shawn Raboutou</a> and <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts">Aidan Roberts</a> to name a few) before <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi">Will Bosi</a> made the second ascent in April 2023.</p>
<p>The problem was initially found by <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen">Marko Siivinen</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [<a href="/climber/1555/anton-johansson">Anton Johansson</a>] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival">Nalle</a>  there and the rest is history. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts">Aidan Roberts</a> made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with <a href="https://coreclimbing.co.uk/">Core Climbing</a> to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi">Will Bosi</a> trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen">Marko Siivinen</a> on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/</a></p>

After

<p>The first 9A boulder problem in the world. <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle Hukkataival</a> made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (<a href="/climber/715/toru--nakajima" rel="noopener noreferrer">Toru Nakajima</a>, <a href="/climber/671/shawn-raboutou" rel="noopener noreferrer">Shawn Raboutou</a> and <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> to name a few) before <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> made the second ascent in April 2023.</p>
<p>The problem was initially found by <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [<a href="/climber/1555/anton-johansson" rel="noopener noreferrer">Anton Johansson</a>] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take <a href="/climber/602/nalle-hukkataival" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nalle</a>  there and the rest is history. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. <a href="/climber/227/aidan-roberts" rel="noopener noreferrer">Aidan Roberts</a> made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with <a href="https://coreclimbing.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer">Core Climbing</a> to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi" rel="noopener noreferrer">Will Bosi</a> trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.</p>
<p>At the time of Nalle’s first ascent, the boulder was located in dense woodland. This has since been cleared, leaving boulder out in the open and potentially improving the chances of getting good conditions. </p>
<p>The climb has had very few daytime ascents; short daylight hours and the requirement for cool conditions mean most ascentionists have succeeded during a night time lamp session. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/1554/marko-siivinen" rel="noopener noreferrer">Marko Siivinen</a> on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/</a></p>

Before

<p>John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.</p>
<p>With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. </p>
<p>For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p>
<p>When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins" rel="noopener noreferrer">Royal Robbins</a> said of it:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Gill has researched bouldering history and his website <a href="http://johngill.net" rel="noopener noreferrer">johngill.net</a> remains an invaluable resource. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pat Ament</a>,&nbsp;<a href="/climber/721/john-gill" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Gill</a>,&nbsp;<a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick,&nbsp;Dave.&nbsp;John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Vertebrate Publishing,&nbsp;2018.</p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p>
<p>[5] <em>Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer</em>, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in <a href="/library/11132/mountain-110" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mountain 110</a> <a href="/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt" rel="noopener noreferrer">/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt</a></p>

After

<p>John Gill is one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.</p>
<p>With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. </p>
<p>For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p>
<p>When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins" rel="noopener noreferrer">Royal Robbins</a> said of it:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Gill has researched bouldering history and his website <a href="http://johngill.net" rel="noopener noreferrer">johngill.net</a> remains an invaluable resource. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pat Ament</a>,&nbsp;<a href="/climber/721/john-gill" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Gill</a>,&nbsp;<a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick,&nbsp;Dave.&nbsp;John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Vertebrate Publishing,&nbsp;2018.</p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p>
<p>[5] <em>Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer</em>, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in <a href="/library/11132/mountain-110" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mountain 110</a> <a href="/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt" rel="noopener noreferrer">/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt</a></p>

Before

John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.

With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. 

For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.

When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it:

> I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.

Gill has researched bouldering history and his website [johngill.net](http://johngill.net) remains an invaluable resource. 

### References

[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/)

[2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.

[3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU)

[4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M)

[5] *Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer*, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in [Mountain 110](/library/11132/mountain-110) [/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt](/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt)

After

John Gill is one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.

With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. 

For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.

When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it:

> I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.

Gill has researched bouldering history and his website [johngill.net](http://johngill.net) remains an invaluable resource. 

### References

[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/)

[2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.

[3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU)

[4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M)

[5] *Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer*, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in [Mountain 110](/library/11132/mountain-110) [/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt](/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.

+John Gill is one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.

 

 With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk.

Before

false

After

true

Before

John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.

With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing.

In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.

When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it

> I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.

### References

[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/)

[2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.

[3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU)

[4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M)

[5] *Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer*, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in [Mountain 110](/library/11132/mountain-110) [/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt](/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt)

After

John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.

With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. 

For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.

When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it:

> I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.

Gill has researched bouldering history and his website [johngill.net](http://johngill.net) remains an invaluable resource. 

### References

[1] [https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/](https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/)

[2] [Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament), [John Gill](/climber/721/john-gill), [Yvon Chouinard](/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard), Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.

[3] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU)

[4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M)

[5] *Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer*, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in [Mountain 110](/library/11132/mountain-110) [/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt](/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,12 +1,14 @@

-John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.

+John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.

 

-With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing.

+With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. 

 

-In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.

+For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.

 

-When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it

+When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route [The Thimble](/climb/976/the-thimble), climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, [Royal Robbins](/climber/884/royal-robbins) said of it:

 

 > I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.

+

+Gill has researched bouldering history and his website [johngill.net](http://johngill.net) remains an invaluable resource. 

 

 ### References

Before

<p>John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.</p>
<p>With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing.</p>
<p>In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p>
<p>When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins">Royal Robbins</a> said of it</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament">Pat Ament</a>, <a href="/climber/721/john-gill">John Gill</a>, <a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.</p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p>
<p>[5] <em>Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer</em>, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in <a href="/library/11132/mountain-110">Mountain 110</a> <a href="/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt">/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt</a></p>

After

<p>John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard first ascents in the US at a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in its own right.</p>
<p>With a background in gymnastics, Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing, transferring some of the training ideas and using gymnastic chalk. </p>
<p>For Gill, as in gymnastics, elegance of execution was as important as difficulty. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.</p>
<p>When he applied his skills to taller routes, Gill also excelled. His route <a href="/climb/976/the-thimble" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Thimble</a>, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7A+, was well ahead of its time. After attempting to repeat the line, <a href="/climber/884/royal-robbins" rel="noopener noreferrer">Royal Robbins</a> said of it:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Gill has researched bouldering history and his website <a href="http://johngill.net" rel="noopener noreferrer">johngill.net</a> remains an invaluable resource. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pat Ament</a>,&nbsp;<a href="/climber/721/john-gill" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Gill</a>,&nbsp;<a href="/climber/1049/yvon-chouinard" rel="noopener noreferrer">Yvon Chouinard</a>, Rearick,&nbsp;Dave.&nbsp;John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend.&nbsp;United Kingdom:&nbsp;Vertebrate Publishing,&nbsp;2018.</p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M</a></p>
<p>[5] <em>Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulderer</em>, orignally presented at the BMC conference in March 1986, then reproduced in <a href="/library/11132/mountain-110" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mountain 110</a> <a href="/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt" rel="noopener noreferrer">/file/c4606b9f-a73c-ab1b-25eb-2d7f66dc3515/reflections_of_a_middle_aged_boulderer.txt</a></p>

Before

<p>Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device" rel="noopener noreferrer">cams</a> which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.</p>
<p>Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as <a href="/climb/523/the-phoenix" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Phoenix</a> in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.</p>
<p>On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack <a href="/climb/2709/ray's-roof" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray's Roof</a>, grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.</p>
<p>More controversially he was also involved in chipping on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a>, in particular in an early attempt to free climb <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> he chipped holds on what is now known as <em>The Jardine Traverse</em> as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/</a></p>

After

<p>Ray Jardine is an American rock climber and pioneer of hard crack climbing. However, perhaps his most significant contribution to climbing was his invention of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device" rel="noopener noreferrer">cams</a>, ushering in a revolution in trad climbing, and making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.</p>
<p>Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as <a href="/climb/523/the-phoenix" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Phoenix</a> in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.</p>
<p>On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack <a href="/climb/2709/ray's-roof" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray's Roof</a>, grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.</p>
<p>More controversially he was also involved in chipping on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a>, in particular in an early attempt to free climb <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> he chipped holds on what is now known as <em>The Jardine Traverse</em> as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/</a></p>

Before

Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.

Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.

On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack [Ray's Roof](/climb/2709/ray's-roof), grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.

More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as *The Jardine Traverse* as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.



### References

[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/)

After

Ray Jardine is an American rock climber and pioneer of hard crack climbing. However, perhaps his most significant contribution to climbing was his invention of [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device), ushering in a revolution in trad climbing, and making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.

Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.

On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack [Ray's Roof](/climb/2709/ray's-roof), grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.

More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as *The Jardine Traverse* as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.



### References

[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.

+Ray Jardine is an American rock climber and pioneer of hard crack climbing. However, perhaps his most significant contribution to climbing was his invention of [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device), ushering in a revolution in trad climbing, and making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.

 

 Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.

Before

false

After

true

Before

<p>Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device">Cams</a> which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.</p>
<p>Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as <a href="/climb/523/the-phoenix">The Phoenix</a> in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.</p>
<p>More controversially he was also involved in chipping on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan">El Capitan</a>, in particular in an early attempt to free climb <a href="/climb/990/the-nose">The Nose</a> he chipped holds on what is now known as <em>The Jardine Traverse</em> as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/">https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/</a></p>

After

<p>Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device" rel="noopener noreferrer">cams</a> which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.</p>
<p>Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as <a href="/climb/523/the-phoenix" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Phoenix</a> in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.</p>
<p>On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack <a href="/climb/2709/ray's-roof" rel="noopener noreferrer">Ray's Roof</a>, grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.</p>
<p>More controversially he was also involved in chipping on <a href="/crag/8023/el-capitan" rel="noopener noreferrer">El Capitan</a>, in particular in an early attempt to free climb <a href="/climb/990/the-nose" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Nose</a> he chipped holds on what is now known as <em>The Jardine Traverse</em> as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/</a></p>

Before

Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [Cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.

Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.

More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as *The Jardine Traverse* as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.

### References

[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/)

After

Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.

Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.

On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack [Ray's Roof](/climb/2709/ray's-roof), grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.

More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as *The Jardine Traverse* as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.



### References

[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/](https://www.instagram.com/p/C0V_Im8tneX/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,8 +1,12 @@

-Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [Cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.

+Ray Jardine is an American rock climber. He is well known for inventing [cams](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device) which ushered in a revolution in trad climbing, making climbs that were previously unprotectable possible.

 

 Ray put his new invention to excellent use, establishing routes such as [The Phoenix](/climb/523/the-phoenix) in 1977, then one of the hardest trad routes in the world.

 

+On a visit to the Peak District in 1977, he climbed the off-width roof crack [Ray's Roof](/climb/2709/ray's-roof), grading it 5.11c (E4); today it is rated E7 and rarely repeated.

+

 More controversially he was also involved in chipping on [El Capitan](/crag/8023/el-capitan), in particular in an early attempt to free climb [The Nose](/climb/990/the-nose) he chipped holds on what is now known as *The Jardine Traverse* as well as purposefully using pegs to enlarge peg scars and make free climbing those pitches easier.

+

+

 

 ### References

Before

false

After

true

Before

false

After

true

Before

<p>Shauna Coxsey is a British boulderer and one of the strongest female climbers in the UK. She has won two bouldering world cups, firstly in 2016 and then in 2017.</p>
<p>While she was primarily a competition climber in her early career (up to the 2020 Tokyo olympics) she did occasionally climb outside, with highlights such as the first female ascent of <a href="/climb/123/new-base-line">New Base Line</a> 8B+ in 2014, making her one of a handful of women to have climbed 8B+ at the time.</p>
<p>Since retiring from competitions and having a child she has switched focus to bouldering outdoors.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/">https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g">https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g</a></p>

After

<p>Shauna Coxsey is one of the most successful comp climbers, and most accomplished outdoor boulderers, in the UK. She has won two bouldering world cups, in 2016 and 2017 and went on to compete in the Tokyo Olympics, held in 2021. Since retiring from comps she has excelled at outdoor bouldering. </p>
<p>While she was primarily a competition climber for the first part of her career, she did occasionally climb outside, with highlights such as the first female ascent of <a href="/climb/123/new-base-line" rel="noopener noreferrer">New Base Line</a> 8B+ in 2014, making her one of a handful of women to have climbed 8B+ at the time.</p>
<p>Since retiring from competitions she has made rapid repeats of a string of 8B and harder boulders. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g</a></p>

Before

Shauna Coxsey is a British boulderer and one of the strongest female climbers in the UK. She has won two bouldering world cups, firstly in 2016 and then in 2017.

While she was primarily a competition climber in her early career (up to the 2020 Tokyo olympics) she did occasionally climb outside, with highlights such as the first female ascent of [New Base Line](/climb/123/new-base-line) 8B+ in 2014, making her one of a handful of women to have climbed 8B+ at the time.

Since retiring from competitions and having a child she has switched focus to bouldering outdoors.

### References

[1] [https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/](https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/)

[2] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g](https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g)

After

Shauna Coxsey is one of the most successful comp climbers, and most accomplished outdoor boulderers, in the UK. She has won two bouldering world cups, in 2016 and 2017 and went on to compete in the Tokyo Olympics, held in 2021. Since retiring from comps she has excelled at outdoor bouldering. 

While she was primarily a competition climber for the first part of her career, she did occasionally climb outside, with highlights such as the first female ascent of [New Base Line](/climb/123/new-base-line) 8B+ in 2014, making her one of a handful of women to have climbed 8B+ at the time.

Since retiring from competitions she has made rapid repeats of a string of 8B and harder boulders. 

### References

[1] [https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/](https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/)

[2] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g](https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,8 +1,8 @@

-Shauna Coxsey is a British boulderer and one of the strongest female climbers in the UK. She has won two bouldering world cups, firstly in 2016 and then in 2017.

+Shauna Coxsey is one of the most successful comp climbers, and most accomplished outdoor boulderers, in the UK. She has won two bouldering world cups, in 2016 and 2017 and went on to compete in the Tokyo Olympics, held in 2021. Since retiring from comps she has excelled at outdoor bouldering. 

 

-While she was primarily a competition climber in her early career (up to the 2020 Tokyo olympics) she did occasionally climb outside, with highlights such as the first female ascent of [New Base Line](/climb/123/new-base-line) 8B+ in 2014, making her one of a handful of women to have climbed 8B+ at the time.

+While she was primarily a competition climber for the first part of her career, she did occasionally climb outside, with highlights such as the first female ascent of [New Base Line](/climb/123/new-base-line) 8B+ in 2014, making her one of a handful of women to have climbed 8B+ at the time.

 

-Since retiring from competitions and having a child she has switched focus to bouldering outdoors.

+Since retiring from competitions she has made rapid repeats of a string of 8B and harder boulders. 

 

 ### References

Before

false

After

true

Before

The most successful competition climber of all time, the first gold medalist in climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, a result repeated at Paris 2024. 

Primarily focused on competitions, Janja has also made very quick ascents of hard Swiss boulder testpieces, flashed 8c+, and redpointed 9b+ with her ascent of [Bibliographie](/climb/466/bibliographie) (9b+). 

### References

[1] A profile of Janja from Reel Rock [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY)

[2] Winning the olympic gold medal in Tokyo 2020 [https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/)

[3] Interview with [Natalie Berry](/climber/411/natalie-berry)  for [UKClimbing.com](https://www.ukclimbing.com), 3rd May 2022 [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458)

[4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI)

[5] Interview with John Bergman for climbing.com, August 2024 [https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/](https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/)

[6] Video with [Magnus Midtbø](/climber/505/magnus-midtbø), July 2025 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM)

After

The most successful competition climber of all time, the first gold medalist in climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, a result repeated at Paris 2024. 

Primarily focused on competitions, her achievements on rock are no less impressive, making very quick ascents of hard Swiss boulder testpieces, flashing 8c+, and redpointing 9b+ with her ascent of [Bibliographie](/climb/466/bibliographie) (9b+). 

### References

[1] A profile of Janja from Reel Rock [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY)

[2] Winning the olympic gold medal in Tokyo 2020 [https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/)

[3] Interview with [Natalie Berry](/climber/411/natalie-berry)  for [UKClimbing.com](https://www.ukclimbing.com), 3rd May 2022 [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458)

[4] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI)

[5] Interview with John Bergman for climbing.com, August 2024 [https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/](https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/)

[6] Video with [Magnus Midtbø](/climber/505/magnus-midtbø), July 2025 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@

 The most successful competition climber of all time, the first gold medalist in climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, a result repeated at Paris 2024. 

 

-Primarily focused on competitions, Janja has also made very quick ascents of hard Swiss boulder testpieces, flashed 8c+, and redpointed 9b+ with her ascent of [Bibliographie](/climb/466/bibliographie) (9b+). 

+Primarily focused on competitions, her achievements on rock are no less impressive, making very quick ascents of hard Swiss boulder testpieces, flashing 8c+, and redpointing 9b+ with her ascent of [Bibliographie](/climb/466/bibliographie) (9b+). 

 

 ### References

Before

<p>The most successful competition climber of all time, the first gold medalist in climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, a result repeated at Paris 2024. </p>
<p>Primarily focused on competitions, Janja has also made very quick ascents of hard Swiss boulder testpieces, flashed 8c+, and redpointed 9b+ with her ascent of <a href="/climb/466/bibliographie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bibliographie</a> (9b+). </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] A profile of Janja from Reel Rock <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY</a></p>
<p>[2] Winning the olympic gold medal in Tokyo 2020 <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/</a></p>
<p>[3] Interview with <a href="/climber/411/natalie-berry" rel="noopener noreferrer">Natalie Berry</a>  for <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com" rel="noopener noreferrer">UKClimbing.com</a>, 3rd May 2022 <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI</a></p>
<p>[5] Interview with John Bergman for climbing.com, August 2024 <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/</a></p>
<p>[6] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, July 2025 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM</a></p>

After

<p>The most successful competition climber of all time, the first gold medalist in climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, a result repeated at Paris 2024. </p>
<p>Primarily focused on competitions, her achievements on rock are no less impressive, making very quick ascents of hard Swiss boulder testpieces, flashing 8c+, and redpointing 9b+ with her ascent of <a href="/climb/466/bibliographie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bibliographie</a> (9b+). </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] A profile of Janja from Reel Rock <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY</a></p>
<p>[2] Winning the olympic gold medal in Tokyo 2020 <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/</a></p>
<p>[3] Interview with <a href="/climber/411/natalie-berry" rel="noopener noreferrer">Natalie Berry</a>  for <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com" rel="noopener noreferrer">UKClimbing.com</a>, 3rd May 2022 <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI</a></p>
<p>[5] Interview with John Bergman for climbing.com, August 2024 <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/</a></p>
<p>[6] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, July 2025 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM</a></p>

Before

<p>The most successful competition climber of all time and first gold medalist in climbing in the Tokyo 2020 olympics.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] A profile of Janja from Reel Rock <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY</a></p>
<p>[2] Winning the olympic gold medal in Tokyo 2020 <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/</a></p>
<p>[3] Interview with <a href="/climber/411/natalie-berry" rel="noopener noreferrer">Natalie Berry</a>  for <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com" rel="noopener noreferrer">UKClimbing.com</a>, 3rd May 2022 <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI</a></p>
<p>[5] Interview with John Bergman for climbing.com, August 2024 <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/</a></p>
<p>[6] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, July 2025 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM</a></p>

After

<p>The most successful competition climber of all time, the first gold medalist in climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, a result repeated at Paris 2024. </p>
<p>Primarily focused on competitions, Janja has also made very quick ascents of hard Swiss boulder testpieces, flashed 8c+, and redpointed 9b+ with her ascent of <a href="/climb/466/bibliographie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bibliographie</a> (9b+). </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] A profile of Janja from Reel Rock <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu_W2hT-HDY</a></p>
<p>[2] Winning the olympic gold medal in Tokyo 2020 <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPRpH_l81i/</a></p>
<p>[3] Interview with <a href="/climber/411/natalie-berry" rel="noopener noreferrer">Natalie Berry</a>  for <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com" rel="noopener noreferrer">UKClimbing.com</a>, 3rd May 2022 <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/climb_for_gold_-_janja_garnbret_olympic_champion-14458</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlSSD7jDSI</a></p>
<p>[5] Interview with John Bergman for climbing.com, August 2024 <a href="https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-post-olympic-2024-interview/</a></p>
<p>[6] Video with <a href="/climber/505/magnus-midtbø" rel="noopener noreferrer">Magnus Midtbø</a>, July 2025 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EsdeUBBVNM</a></p>

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