Mono

	Country	Contributions	Between	Climbers	Crags	Climbs	Ascents
1	United Kingdom	11148	22nd May 2025 – 16th September 2026	114	13	586	1083
2	France	3430	22nd May 2025 – 29th August 2026	32	13	172	326
3	USA	1770	30th July 2025 – 14th August 2026	26	56	167	88
4	Japan	1478	19th July 2025 – 14th August 2026	14	25	107	73
5	Spain	319	31st July 2025 – 14th August 2026	3	9	35	13
6	Switzerland	229	31st July 2025 – 9th August 2026	2	5	21	15
7	New Zealand	216	19th August 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	1	17	13
8	Canada	170	10th September 2025 – 14th August 2026	1	9	25	3
9	Italy	166	12th August 2025 – 16th August 2026	2	7	19	7
10	Germany	151	8th November 2025 – 6th August 2026	4	6	10	5

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
1001	18th July 2026	16:20:30 UTC	Mono	climber	Joe Goodacre	country_flag
Before `None` After `🇺🇸`
1002	18th July 2026	16:20:30 UTC	Mono	climber	Joe Goodacre	country_membership
Before `None` After `american`
1003	17th July 2026	06:18:38 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	notes
Before [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt) After [Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing. The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] [Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996; climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict: > I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1) There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent. [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook: > The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2) However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line: >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1) The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). ### References [1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock) [2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -5,7 +5,7 @@ Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience: >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3] -[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. +[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996; climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through. [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. In extremis on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:
1004	17th July 2026	06:18:38 UTC	Mono	climb	Master's Wall	notes_pretty
Before <p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p> <p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p> <p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p> <blockquote> <p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> (E9). </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p> <p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p> After <p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p> <p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p> <p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p> <blockquote> <p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996; climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p> <p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p> <blockquote> <p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p> <p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p> <blockquote> <p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p> </blockquote> <p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p> <blockquote> <p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p> </blockquote> <p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> (E9). </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p> <p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p> <p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>
1005	16th July 2026	09:35:08 UTC	Mono	climb	Biographie	notes_pretty
Before <p>Bolted and named by <a href="/crag/2054/céüse" rel="noopener noreferrer">Céüse</a> pioneer and Alpine legend <a href="/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jean-Christophe Lafaille</a> in 1988, <a href="/climber/1265/arnaud-petit" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arnaud Petit</a> climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Sharma</a> climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; <a href="/climb/512/open-air" rel="noopener noreferrer">Open Air</a> from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. </p> <p>The full line was initially named <em>Realization</em> by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as <em>Biographie</em>, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed.</p> <p>The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dosage Volume 1</a>.</p> <p><a href="/climber/1712/josh-lowell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Josh Lowell</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At one point <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris</a> wanted to call it <em>Get a Life</em>, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]</p> </blockquote> <p>The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html</a></p> After <p>Bolted and named by <a href="/crag/2054/céüse" rel="noopener noreferrer">Céüse</a> pioneer and Alpine legend <a href="/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jean-Christophe Lafaille</a> in 1988, <a href="/climber/1265/arnaud-petit" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arnaud Petit</a> climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Sharma</a> climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; <a href="/climb/512/open-air" rel="noopener noreferrer">Open Air</a> from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. </p> <p>The full line was initially named <em>Realization</em> by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as <em>Biographie</em>, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed.</p> <p>The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dosage Volume 1</a>.</p> <p><a href="/climber/1712/josh-lowell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Josh Lowell</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At one point <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris</a> wanted to call it <em>Get a Life</em>, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]</p> </blockquote> <p>The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world. [5]</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html</a></p> <p>[5] <a href="https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/943937/fr/ceuse-biographie-biographie" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/943937/fr/ceuse-biographie-biographie</a></p>
1006	16th July 2026	09:35:08 UTC	Mono	climb	Biographie	notes
Before Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. The full line was initially named Realization by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed. The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740). [Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell): > At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3] The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world. ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0) [3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?) [4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html) After Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. The full line was initially named Realization by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed. The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740). [Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell): > At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3] The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world. [5] ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0) [3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?) [4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html) [5] [https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/943937/fr/ceuse-biographie-biographie](https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/943937/fr/ceuse-biographie-biographie) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ > At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3] -The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world. +The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world. [5] ### References @@ -16,4 +16,6 @@ [3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?) -[4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html) +[4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html) + +[5] [https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/943937/fr/ceuse-biographie-biographie](https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/943937/fr/ceuse-biographie-biographie)
1007	16th July 2026	09:32:49 UTC	Mono	climb	Biographie	notes_pretty
Before <p>Bolted and named by <a href="/crag/2054/céüse" rel="noopener noreferrer">Céüse</a> pioneer and Alpine legend <a href="/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jean-Christophe Lafaille</a> in 1988, <a href="/climber/1265/arnaud-petit" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arnaud Petit</a> climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Sharma</a> climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; <a href="/climb/512/open-air" rel="noopener noreferrer">Open Air</a> from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. </p> <p>The full line was initially named <em>Realization</em> by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as <em>Biographie</em>, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed.</p> <p>The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dosage Volume 1</a>.</p> <p><a href="/climber/1712/josh-lowell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Josh Lowell</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At one point <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris</a> wanted to call it <em>Get a Life</em>, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html</a></p> After <p>Bolted and named by <a href="/crag/2054/céüse" rel="noopener noreferrer">Céüse</a> pioneer and Alpine legend <a href="/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jean-Christophe Lafaille</a> in 1988, <a href="/climber/1265/arnaud-petit" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arnaud Petit</a> climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Sharma</a> climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; <a href="/climb/512/open-air" rel="noopener noreferrer">Open Air</a> from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. </p> <p>The full line was initially named <em>Realization</em> by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as <em>Biographie</em>, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed.</p> <p>The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dosage Volume 1</a>.</p> <p><a href="/climber/1712/josh-lowell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Josh Lowell</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At one point <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris</a> wanted to call it <em>Get a Life</em>, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]</p> </blockquote> <p>The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html</a></p>
1008	16th July 2026	09:32:49 UTC	Mono	climb	Biographie	notes
Before Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. The full line was initially named Realization by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed. The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740). [Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell): > At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3] ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0) [3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?) [4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html) After Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. The full line was initially named Realization by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed. The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740). [Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell): > At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3] The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world. ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0) [3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?) [4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html) Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -8,6 +8,8 @@ > At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3] +The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world. + ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0)`
1009	16th July 2026	09:30:06 UTC	Mono	climb	Biographie	notes_pretty
Before <p>Bolted and named by <a href="/crag/2054/céüse" rel="noopener noreferrer">Céüse</a> pioneer and Alpine legend <a href="/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jean-Christophe Lafaille</a> in 1988, <a href="/climber/1265/arnaud-petit" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arnaud Petit</a> climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Sharma</a> climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; <a href="/climb/512/open-air" rel="noopener noreferrer">Open Air</a> from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. </p> <p>The full line was initially named <em>Realization</em> by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as <em>Biographie</em>, and the half-height version is no longer considered a route.</p> <p>The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dosage Volume 1</a>.</p> <p><a href="/climber/1712/josh-lowell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Josh Lowell</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At one point <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris</a> wanted to call it <em>Get a Life</em>, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html</a></p> After <p>Bolted and named by <a href="/crag/2054/céüse" rel="noopener noreferrer">Céüse</a> pioneer and Alpine legend <a href="/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jean-Christophe Lafaille</a> in 1988, <a href="/climber/1265/arnaud-petit" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arnaud Petit</a> climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Sharma</a> climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; <a href="/climb/512/open-air" rel="noopener noreferrer">Open Air</a> from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. </p> <p>The full line was initially named <em>Realization</em> by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as <em>Biographie</em>, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed.</p> <p>The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dosage Volume 1</a>.</p> <p><a href="/climber/1712/josh-lowell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Josh Lowell</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At one point <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris</a> wanted to call it <em>Get a Life</em>, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html</a></p>
1010	16th July 2026	09:30:06 UTC	Mono	climb	Biographie	notes
Before Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. The full line was initially named Realization by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie, and the half-height version is no longer considered a route. The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740). [Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell): > At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3] ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0) [3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?) [4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html) After Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. The full line was initially named Realization by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed. The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740). [Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell): > At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3] ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0) [3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?) [4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. -The full line was initially named Realization by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie, and the half-height version is no longer considered a route. +The full line was initially named Realization by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed. The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740).
1011	16th July 2026	09:28:46 UTC	Mono	climb	Biographie	notes_pretty
Before <p><a href="/climber/1265/arnaud-petit" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arnaud Petit</a> climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Sharma</a>. In line with French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie.</p> <p>The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dosage Volume 1</a>.</p> <p><a href="/climber/1712/josh-lowell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Josh Lowell</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At one point <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris</a> wanted to call it <em>Get a Life</em>, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?</a></p> After <p>Bolted and named by <a href="/crag/2054/céüse" rel="noopener noreferrer">Céüse</a> pioneer and Alpine legend <a href="/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jean-Christophe Lafaille</a> in 1988, <a href="/climber/1265/arnaud-petit" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arnaud Petit</a> climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Sharma</a> climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; <a href="/climb/512/open-air" rel="noopener noreferrer">Open Air</a> from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. </p> <p>The full line was initially named <em>Realization</em> by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as <em>Biographie</em>, and the half-height version is no longer considered a route.</p> <p>The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dosage Volume 1</a>.</p> <p><a href="/climber/1712/josh-lowell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Josh Lowell</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At one point <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris</a> wanted to call it <em>Get a Life</em>, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?</a></p> <p>[4] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html</a></p>
1012	16th July 2026	09:28:46 UTC	Mono	climb	Biographie	notes
Before [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma). In line with French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie. The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740). [Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell): > At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3] ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0) [3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?) After Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. The full line was initially named Realization by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie, and the half-height version is no longer considered a route. The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740). [Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell): > At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3] ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0) [3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?) [4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,8 @@ -[Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma). In line with French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie. +Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. -The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740). +The full line was initially named Realization by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie, and the half-height version is no longer considered a route. + +The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740). [Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell): @@ -10,4 +12,6 @@ [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0) -[3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?) +[3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?) + +[4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html)
1013	16th July 2026	04:27:22 UTC	Mono	media	https://www.instagram.com/p/Da1SkJwkn8v/	url
Before `None` After `https://www.instagram.com/p/Da1SkJwkn8v/`
1014	16th July 2026	04:27:22 UTC	Mono	media	https://www.instagram.com/p/Da1SkJwkn8v/	missing_right_to_reproduce
Before `None` After `false`
1015	16th July 2026	04:27:21 UTC	Mono	ascent	Shawn Raboutou's ascent of Floatin	notes
Before `### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/](https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/)` After `Worked for a few days in 2025 then got it done first session in 2026. ### References [1] [https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/](https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/) [2] [https://www.instagram.com/p/Da1SkJwkn8v/](https://www.instagram.com/p/Da1SkJwkn8v/)` Diff `--- before +++ after @@ -1,3 +1,7 @@ +Worked for a few days in 2025 then got it done first session in 2026. + ### References -[1] [https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/](https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/) +[1] [https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/](https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/) + +[2] [https://www.instagram.com/p/Da1SkJwkn8v/](https://www.instagram.com/p/Da1SkJwkn8v/)`
1016	16th July 2026	04:27:21 UTC	Mono	ascent	Shawn Raboutou's ascent of Floatin	notes_pretty
Before `<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/</a></p>` After `<p>Worked for a few days in 2025 then got it done first session in 2026. </p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Da1SkJwkn8v/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/Da1SkJwkn8v/</a></p>`
1017	16th July 2026	04:25:13 UTC	Mono	ascent	Shawn Raboutou's ascent of Floatin	Sessions
Before `1` After `None`
1018	15th July 2026	14:51:59 UTC	Mono	ascent	Shawn Raboutou's ascent of Floatin	ascent_dt_end
Before `2026-05-01` After `2026-04-21`
1019	15th July 2026	14:51:59 UTC	Mono	ascent	Shawn Raboutou's ascent of Floatin	ascent_dt_start
Before `2026-04-01` After `2026-04-21`
1020	15th July 2026	14:47:15 UTC	Mono	ascent	Shawn Raboutou's ascent of Floatin	suggested_grade_id
Before `None` After `41`

Before

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🇺🇸

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american

Before

[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.

The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). 

Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:
>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)

There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.

[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:

> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)

However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line:

 >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). 

### References

[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)

[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)

After

[Jerry Moffatt](/climber/131/jerry-moffatt)'s solution to the Last Great Problem on [Clogwyn Du'r Arddu](/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu)'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.

The line had been attempted by [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as [The Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation). 

Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:
>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996; climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

[James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

> I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)

There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.

[Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon), 2004 guidebook:

> The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old [Tormented Ejaculation](/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation) bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)

However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, [Caff](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) believes Jerry took a high traverse line:

 >There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)

The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): [Indian Face](/climb/601/indian-face) (E9). 

### References

[1] [https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock](https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock)

[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 [http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt](http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -5,7 +5,7 @@

 Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 [Spreadeagle](/climb/4922/spreadeagle). Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:

 >In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]

 

-[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

+[Leo Houlding](/climber/574/leo-houlding) made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996; climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.

 

 [James McHaffie](/climber/138/james-mchaffie) attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. *In extremis* on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:

Before

<p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p>
<p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p>
<p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996, climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> (E9). </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
<p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>

After

<p><a href="/climber/131/jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jerry Moffatt</a>'s solution to the Last Great Problem on <a href="/crag/457/clogwyn-du'r-arddu" rel="noopener noreferrer">Clogwyn Du'r Arddu</a>'s Great Wall. It has been the scene of some the most stomach-turning epics in British climbing.</p>
<p>The line had been attempted by <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead" rel="noopener noreferrer">John Redhead</a> in 1980, pre-sticky rubber. After taking a massive fall he placed a bolt at his high point, recording the route as <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Tormented Ejaculation</a>. </p>
<p>Jerry moved right from around this point, into the neighbouring E4 <a href="/climb/4922/spreadeagle" rel="noopener noreferrer">Spreadeagle</a>. Although some of the climbing had been rehearsed, much had not, and Jerry had a traumatic experience:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In that photo I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified. [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/574/leo-houlding" rel="noopener noreferrer">Leo Houlding</a> made an audacious and terrifying onsight ascent of the route in 1996; climbing in boots two sizes too big, he narrowly made it through.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">James McHaffie</a> attempted the same in 2000 but got into serious trouble high on the wall, resulting in one of the most extraordinary and chilling rescues on record. <em>In extremis</em> on crimps and small footholds, he untied from his lead ropes whilst his belayer, over two agonising hours, tried to find the top of the crag to throw an abseil line down to him. McHaffie returned to the route in 2018, climbing it on his second attempt after practising the moves on abseil. The verdict:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ll just throw it out there and say I think [Jerry] did an E9 in 1983 and I don’t feel too bad for having a total fucking epic on it as a teenager. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There has been some debate about the line taken on the first ascent.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nick Dixon</a>, 2004 guidebook:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The route has now had several ascents, some on-sight, though the exact position at which climbers have moved right has varied. The higher, the harder - the first ascensionist moved up and right from position just right of the old <a href="/climb/1089/the-tormented-ejaculation" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tormented Ejaculation</a> bolt stud, which is 3 metres below and just right of the overhang.(2)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, based on photographs and Jerry's account, <a href="/climber/138/james-mchaffie" rel="noopener noreferrer">Caff</a> believes Jerry took a high traverse line:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There is a lower weakness beneath the line of Masters Wall leaving the <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> 5 metres above the overlap which would be soft E7. It isn't that surprising with the form Jerry had at the time, few climbers in the UK have ever been onsight soloing E4s on mountain cliffs and if you are adept a climber as Jerry obviously was then onsighting many E7s wouldn't feel too hard and after multiple abseils I'd go so far as to say he'd find E7s piss. Listen to his account of his ascent. (1)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The full direct line was climbed in 1986 by <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes" rel="noopener noreferrer">Johnny Dawes</a>: <a href="/climb/601/indian-face" rel="noopener noreferrer">Indian Face</a> (E9). </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock</a></p>
<p>[2] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon</p>
<p>[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt</a></p>

Before

<p>Bolted and named by <a href="/crag/2054/céüse" rel="noopener noreferrer">Céüse</a> pioneer and Alpine legend <a href="/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jean-Christophe Lafaille</a> in 1988, <a href="/climber/1265/arnaud-petit" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arnaud Petit</a> climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Sharma</a> climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; <a href="/climb/512/open-air" rel="noopener noreferrer">Open Air</a> from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. </p>
<p>The full line was initially named <em>Realization</em> by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as <em>Biographie</em>, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed.</p>
<p>The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dosage Volume 1</a>.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/1712/josh-lowell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Josh Lowell</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>At one point <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris</a> wanted to call it <em>Get a Life</em>, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html</a></p>

After

<p>Bolted and named by <a href="/crag/2054/céüse" rel="noopener noreferrer">Céüse</a> pioneer and Alpine legend <a href="/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jean-Christophe Lafaille</a> in 1988, <a href="/climber/1265/arnaud-petit" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arnaud Petit</a> climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Sharma</a> climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; <a href="/climb/512/open-air" rel="noopener noreferrer">Open Air</a> from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. </p>
<p>The full line was initially named <em>Realization</em> by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as <em>Biographie</em>, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed.</p>
<p>The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dosage Volume 1</a>.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/1712/josh-lowell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Josh Lowell</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>At one point <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris</a> wanted to call it <em>Get a Life</em>, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world. [5]</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html</a></p>
<p>[5] <a href="https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/943937/fr/ceuse-biographie-biographie" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/943937/fr/ceuse-biographie-biographie</a></p>

Before

Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. 

The full line was initially named *Realization* by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as *Biographie*, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740).

[Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell):

> At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it *Get a Life*, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]

The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world.

### References

[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0)

[3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?)

[4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html)

After

Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. 

The full line was initially named *Realization* by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as *Biographie*, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740).

[Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell):

> At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it *Get a Life*, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]

The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world. [5]

### References

[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0)

[3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?)

[4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html)

[5] [https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/943937/fr/ceuse-biographie-biographie](https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/943937/fr/ceuse-biographie-biographie)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -8,7 +8,7 @@

 

 > At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it *Get a Life*, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]

 

-The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world.

+The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world. [5]

 

 ### References

 

@@ -16,4 +16,6 @@

 

 [3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?)

 

-[4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html)
+[4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html)

+

+[5] [https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/943937/fr/ceuse-biographie-biographie](https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/943937/fr/ceuse-biographie-biographie)

Before

<p>Bolted and named by <a href="/crag/2054/céüse" rel="noopener noreferrer">Céüse</a> pioneer and Alpine legend <a href="/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jean-Christophe Lafaille</a> in 1988, <a href="/climber/1265/arnaud-petit" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arnaud Petit</a> climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Sharma</a> climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; <a href="/climb/512/open-air" rel="noopener noreferrer">Open Air</a> from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. </p>
<p>The full line was initially named <em>Realization</em> by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as <em>Biographie</em>, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed.</p>
<p>The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dosage Volume 1</a>.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/1712/josh-lowell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Josh Lowell</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>At one point <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris</a> wanted to call it <em>Get a Life</em>, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html</a></p>

After

<p>Bolted and named by <a href="/crag/2054/céüse" rel="noopener noreferrer">Céüse</a> pioneer and Alpine legend <a href="/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jean-Christophe Lafaille</a> in 1988, <a href="/climber/1265/arnaud-petit" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arnaud Petit</a> climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Sharma</a> climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; <a href="/climb/512/open-air" rel="noopener noreferrer">Open Air</a> from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. </p>
<p>The full line was initially named <em>Realization</em> by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as <em>Biographie</em>, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed.</p>
<p>The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dosage Volume 1</a>.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/1712/josh-lowell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Josh Lowell</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>At one point <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris</a> wanted to call it <em>Get a Life</em>, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html</a></p>

Before

Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. 

The full line was initially named *Realization* by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as *Biographie*, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740).

[Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell):

> At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it *Get a Life*, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]

### References

[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0)

[3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?)

[4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html)

After

Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. 

The full line was initially named *Realization* by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as *Biographie*, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740).

[Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell):

> At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it *Get a Life*, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]

The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world.

### References

[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0)

[3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?)

[4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -8,6 +8,8 @@

 

 > At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it *Get a Life*, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]

 

+The route is entirely natural and considered to be one of the best hard sport climbs in the world.

+

 ### References

 

 [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0)

Before

<p>Bolted and named by <a href="/crag/2054/céüse" rel="noopener noreferrer">Céüse</a> pioneer and Alpine legend <a href="/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jean-Christophe Lafaille</a> in 1988, <a href="/climber/1265/arnaud-petit" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arnaud Petit</a> climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Sharma</a> climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; <a href="/climb/512/open-air" rel="noopener noreferrer">Open Air</a> from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. </p>
<p>The full line was initially named <em>Realization</em> by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as <em>Biographie</em>, and the half-height version is no longer considered a route.</p>
<p>The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dosage Volume 1</a>.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/1712/josh-lowell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Josh Lowell</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>At one point <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris</a> wanted to call it <em>Get a Life</em>, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html</a></p>

After

<p>Bolted and named by <a href="/crag/2054/céüse" rel="noopener noreferrer">Céüse</a> pioneer and Alpine legend <a href="/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jean-Christophe Lafaille</a> in 1988, <a href="/climber/1265/arnaud-petit" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arnaud Petit</a> climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Sharma</a> climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; <a href="/climb/512/open-air" rel="noopener noreferrer">Open Air</a> from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. </p>
<p>The full line was initially named <em>Realization</em> by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as <em>Biographie</em>, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed.</p>
<p>The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dosage Volume 1</a>.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/1712/josh-lowell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Josh Lowell</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>At one point <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris</a> wanted to call it <em>Get a Life</em>, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html</a></p>

Before

Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. 

The full line was initially named *Realization* by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as *Biographie*, and the half-height version is no longer considered a route.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740).

[Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell):

> At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it *Get a Life*, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]

### References

[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0)

[3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?)

[4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html)

After

Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. 

The full line was initially named *Realization* by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as *Biographie*, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740).

[Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell):

> At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it *Get a Life*, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]

### References

[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0)

[3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?)

[4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@

 Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. 

 

-The full line was initially named *Realization* by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as *Biographie*, and the half-height version is no longer considered a route.

+The full line was initially named *Realization* by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as *Biographie*, and the half-height version's lower-offs have been removed.

 

 The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740).

Before

<p><a href="/climber/1265/arnaud-petit" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arnaud Petit</a> climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Sharma</a>. In line with French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie.</p>
<p>The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dosage Volume 1</a>.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/1712/josh-lowell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Josh Lowell</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>At one point <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris</a> wanted to call it <em>Get a Life</em>, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?</a></p>

After

<p>Bolted and named by <a href="/crag/2054/céüse" rel="noopener noreferrer">Céüse</a> pioneer and Alpine legend <a href="/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille" rel="noopener noreferrer">Jean-Christophe Lafaille</a> in 1988, <a href="/climber/1265/arnaud-petit" rel="noopener noreferrer">Arnaud Petit</a> climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris Sharma</a> climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; <a href="/climb/512/open-air" rel="noopener noreferrer">Open Air</a> from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. </p>
<p>The full line was initially named <em>Realization</em> by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as <em>Biographie</em>, and the half-height version is no longer considered a route.</p>
<p>The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740" rel="noopener noreferrer">Dosage Volume 1</a>.</p>
<p><a href="/climber/1712/josh-lowell" rel="noopener noreferrer">Josh Lowell</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>At one point <a href="/climber/493/chris-sharma" rel="noopener noreferrer">Chris</a> wanted to call it <em>Get a Life</em>, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?</a></p>
<p>[4] <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html</a></p>

Before

[Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma). In line with French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740).

[Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell):

> At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it *Get a Life*, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]

### References

[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0)

[3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?)

After

Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. 

The full line was initially named *Realization* by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as *Biographie*, and the half-height version is no longer considered a route.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740).

[Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell):

> At one point [Chris](/climber/493/chris-sharma) wanted to call it *Get a Life*, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]

### References

[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0)

[3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?)

[4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,8 @@

-[Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma). In line with French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie.

+Bolted and named by [Céüse](/crag/2054/céüse) pioneer and Alpine legend [Jean-Christophe Lafaille](/climber/818/jean-christophe-lafaille) in 1988, [Arnaud Petit](/climber/1265/arnaud-petit) climbed the pitch to a half-height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. [Chris Sharma](/climber/493/chris-sharma) climbed the the full pitch in 2001, after working it on-and-off for a few years and taking over 30 falls from the crux. In keeping with his style at the time, he did not grade the route [4], but it became widely credited as the first 9a+ in the world for a period; [Open Air](/climb/512/open-air) from 1996 was later upgraded to 9a+ to take that title. 

 

-The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740).

+The full line was initially named *Realization* by Sharma, to differentiate it from the half-height version. However, in line with the French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as *Biographie*, and the half-height version is no longer considered a route.

+

+The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes. His extended efforts were documented in the film [Dosage Volume 1](https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38740).

 

 [Josh Lowell](/climber/1712/josh-lowell):

 

@@ -10,4 +12,6 @@

 

 [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0)

 

-[3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?)
+[3] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?)

+

+[4] [https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html)

Before

None

After

https://www.instagram.com/p/Da1SkJwkn8v/

Before

None

After

false

Before

### References

[1] [https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/](https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/)

After

Worked for a few days in 2025 then got it done first session in 2026. 

### References

[1] [https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/](https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/)

[2] [https://www.instagram.com/p/Da1SkJwkn8v/](https://www.instagram.com/p/Da1SkJwkn8v/)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,3 +1,7 @@

+Worked for a few days in 2025 then got it done first session in 2026. 

+

 ### References

 

-[1] [https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/](https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/)
+[1] [https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/](https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/)

+

+[2] [https://www.instagram.com/p/Da1SkJwkn8v/](https://www.instagram.com/p/Da1SkJwkn8v/)

Before

<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/</a></p>

After

<p>Worked for a few days in 2025 then got it done first session in 2026. </p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/reel/Da0OxrpNX48/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Da1SkJwkn8v/" rel="noopener noreferrer">https://www.instagram.com/p/Da1SkJwkn8v/</a></p>

Before

1

After

None

Before

2026-05-01

After

2026-04-21

Before

2026-04-01

After

2026-04-21

Before

None

After

41

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