Sounds like the toe hook makes this a bit easier, is it enough for a downgrade? Should we downgrade, or wait for some more opinions and see where it lands?
I believe itโs widely thought of as 8A now, Billy Ridalโs post provides some colour as to the change in difficulty. There was also discussion of this somewhere, maybe UKB, when Ondra flashed the sit and whether that also should have a downgrade. However, the Bleau.info rating is based on votes and thereโs a decade plus of votes at the original old beta grade still tipping the balance.
tbh I think I'm just fishing around, agree the stand makes sense at 8A with the current votes, but think we need to wait for some more repeats and opinions on the sit.
Ah, just seen that this thread is about the Assis! I think we leave it and wait for consensus. Getting into the toe hook from the sit looks nails.
Ondra's ascent is marked as 8A+/8B but in the 4 linked references he calls it 8B.
On 8a.nu he put
maybe just 8A+ with the toehook beta?
Yeah i put his suggestion as 8A+/B based on his 8a.nu comment.
Big downgrade from Camille Coudert! Seems like the toe hook and crimp beta make quite a difference if they work for you.
I've tried all the betas, and I'm not sure if I'd call it that much easier, just higher percentage. I'd also take every grade suggestion from Camille with a grain of salt. Him agreeing with the established grades is a rarity.
Good first hand knowledge, thanks.
I'd also take every grade suggestion from Camille with a grain of salt
Ha, classic bleausard sandbaggers!
He has no credibility on grades in my opinion. Look at his 8a logbook โ he's proposed a downgrade for 9/10 of everything he's done, many of which are established benchmarks.
I've also been told by someone who knows him that he sometimes likes to downgrade simply to mess with his friends. This statement should also be taken with a grain of salt, since it has passed through two people.