RPs and bolt-free ascent.

Watching the Ocean > Threads > RPs and bolt-free ascent.
By duncancritchley at 11:20:12 on 29th October 2025.

I think Paul Harrison has this wrong, or is likely reporting what Gibson told him. RPs were widely available in the UK in 1985 - I had multiple sets - and I would be very surprised if Gibson did not possess some. Small cams improved between 1985 and 1989, the time of Littlejohn's boltless ascent, but small passive gear would be no different.

Offsets are arguably the only small passive protection available today that a 1985 climber would not possess.

Post #1 by duncancritchley OP at 11:20:12 on 29th October 2025.

Good knowledge, you ok to correct the write up (if you haven't already)?

Post #2 by remus at 18:30:48 on 29th October 2025.

The story about Gibson having a bolt kit but no RPs with him on a trip to Lundy in 1985 is highly implausible to me but obviously I have no proof. I would personally just report Littlejohn climbed it without the bolts and leave it at that.

Post #3 by duncancritchley OP at 18:05:31 on 30th October 2025.

The story about Gibson having a bolt kit but no RPs with him on a trip to Lundy in 1985 is highly implausible to me

Dunno, from an outside perspective it doesn't seem that implausible. I can think of a lot of ways you could end up without a set of RPs on your rack! Agree probably best to just remove that part from the write up though, so I've tidied it up.

Post #4 by remus at 18:10:29 on 30th October 2025.

This did encourage me to add an entry for Mr RP himself, Roland Paulikg, so it's all good!

Post #5 by duncancritchley OP at 18:50:42 on 30th October 2025.

Good work, spotted that 👌

re. the write up, my reading of the situation was that it was Gary who chopped the bolts around the time he repeated it in Aug 89? Have I misunderstood? If my understanding is correct I'd probably remove

...which were then chopped after his ascent

from Pat's ascent, as it reads a bit like he chopped the bolts.

Post #6 by remus at 19:30:49 on 30th October 2025. Edited at 19:31:44 on 30th October 2025.