Split grade

Knockin' on Heaven's Door > Threads > Split grade
By TdG at 21:15:55 on 22nd October 2025.

This one could do with a split grade. It’s E8 if you use the Born Slippy gear, E9 for the few purists who’ve done without any ‘off route’ gear. Some people have said E7 with the peg, but Ryan’s onsight sounded pretty full on. So E8/9 sounds fair. I seem to recall talk of the peg having a long sling taped to the rock on an early ascent but need to check that.

Post #1 by TdG OP at 21:15:55 on 22nd October 2025.

Is it with splitting in to separate climbs so you think?

Post #2 by remus at 07:03:35 on 23rd October 2025.

Would get complicated because Born Slippy does have a different start, so that’s four variations. It’s all the same climb really, it’s just what you choose to put on your rack that differs. Could just call it E8 and say big grades for bad gear beta.

Post #3 by TdG OP at 07:35:25 on 23rd October 2025. Edited at 07:36:46 on 23rd October 2025.

Could just call it E8 and say big grades for bad gear beta.

That'd be my preference. You don't get a higher grade for soloing something, should be the same for other gear choices.

Post #4 by remus at 12:05:05 on 23rd October 2025.

Changed to E8

Post #5 by TdG OP at 14:28:42 on 23rd October 2025.

🙏

Post #6 by remus at 14:34:47 on 23rd October 2025.