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Redpointed after extensive working, controversial with some at the time as US climbing debated the validity of this versus more traditional ground-up and yo-yo styles. On the successful ascent the final 5.11 part of the crack was found to be smeared with grease by persons unknown and Skinner completed the route by climbing, onsight, a variation finish on adjacent face holds.

References

[1] Jeff Smoot (2019). Hangdog Days. USA: Mountaineers Books p196-206

Using two bolts at the crux.

This route could go gear only, but it seemed way more fun to not have to wiggle in stoppers, take massive, awkward, and possibly dangerous falls on them, and then wiggle them out to make another “clean” attempt. Somebody could surely do it...they will be way more badass than me. But now people can go free ground up safely and focus on enjoying the moves on one of Index’s best routes. [1]

References

[1] https://www.mountainproject.com/route/116994868/ten-percent-direct-en-passant