Twll Mawr

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Originally given E6!

For god's sake, are you a foothold or not?! [2][3]

Johnny climbed the first 2 pitches on the 10th september and the second two pitches on the 11th september. He later climbed the route in a single push.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLyF8zcP674

[2] Llanberis Slate. United Kingdom: Ground Up, 2011.

[3] Mountain Issue 112, page 18 /library/11111/mountain-112

References

[1] Mountain Issue 112, page 18 /library/11111/mountain-112

With M Thomas

I did it on a whim really. We got to the top of the Quarryman groove and I thought what can we do? I’ve done all the existing lines before so I thought I would just go for the traverse line. I got across and suddenly found myself bridging on poor smears, hanging on an edge and having to dyne (sic). At one point I had to sort of layback on the cheek of my face so I could swap hands on a hold. It was very tricky. [1]

Neil Dyer:

It was desperate, we couldn’t really do the moves on the crux. Fair enough we had a sneaky beer on the belay which always takes your edge off, bt still; it was so hard and then run-out after the hard bit was outrageous. Johnny clipped the Fire Escape bolts and then that was it, all the way to the Blockhead belay!”

References

[1] Slate Historical Section

Guessed the date based on the blog post [1].

References

[1] http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-meltdown

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KQFQXrMmwM

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CnCiuV_Dy-x/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb7sidmDpDl/

Unusually, Franco used a knotted rope to protect the lower section of the route (before it joins The Meltdown) as he didn't want to place any bolts.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cy3dUaztBFm/

[2] Interview with Rob Greenwood, October 2023 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkWSzo61Lwk

[3] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33764.msg684096.html#msg684096