This is the most important route we've ever climbed. We worked it for two whole months this summer and it can be broken down into three sections. The first four pitches are new and very steep and were first ascended with a Rätikon and Wendenstöcke mentality, which means long run-outs from one bolt to the other! The second section shares six pitches of an old route called Mediterraneo, first climbed in 1980 using aid. The 5th pitch is the technical crux at 8c+/9a and although it is a bit easier, it is still 8a+. Both were originally climbed using aid and graded A3, and we risked big falls between 20 -25m. The protection on these pitches was very old, there were some original bolts, but most of the rest are wooden pitons, copperheads, micro-friends and nuts...