Climbs

An 8Aish traverse into Atrésie (8A)

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/videos/gui-gui-does-supertanker-8b+-in-font

Originally climbed using yo-yo tactics it was later redpointed by Jean-Pierre Bouvier who renamed it Gandalf le Magicien claiming he had made the first real ascent, which did not sit very well with the local climbers of the time who viewed the frenchman's redpoint tactics as poor style. The new name and claim didn't stick.

Initially climbed with 2 bolts it has variously gained and lost bolts over the years, but now seems to have settled at 4.

References

[1] Peak Limestone North history supplement, page 49 https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Handlers/DownloadHandler.ashx?id=1291

Originally given 8c but upgraded to 8c+. Approximately font 8A+/B in to font 7C.

The line was originally aid climbed by Chris Craggs and Colin Binks and called Free that you Bastards. Ben Moon was working the line but came back to find holds had been chipped off. John Welford then took on the challenge and sealed the deal after a protracted siege.

Named after the sci-fi novel of the same name by Roger Zelazny.

Probably the hardest big wall in the world. Free climbs parts of Mescalito, New Dawn, and Adrift linked by independent climbing. Following coverage by John Branch in the New York Times the first ascent became an international news story.

References

[1] https://www.dawnwall-film.com/

[2] https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2015/01/09/sports/the-dawn-wall-el-capitan.html

[3] https://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/05/sports/on-el-capitans-dawn-wall-two-climbers-make-slow-progress-toward-a-dream.html

Adam Hocking:

You're going to die all the way.