Climbers

References

[1] On The Edge 129, page 38

[2] Interview with Matt Heason, September 2007 https://web.archive.org/web/20071008171030/http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=1024

References

[1] https://www.stonecountrypress.co.uk/2009/08/unsponsored-heroes-craig-parnaby_12.html

Gritstone headpoint wad.

First time I met Dan was bouldering at the Foundry. The next day he suggested we go climbing outside (I was a very green, led a couple is VS’s, climber). He had me belay him on Kaluza Klein... “If I fall off just jump off this ledge”

Errrr ok....

He then proceeded to fall of the top, repeatedly... (src)

References

[1] https://gripped.com/articles/sh-and-motherhood/

A Scottish mountaineer who was famed for his exploits in the UK, the Alps and the Himalaya.

Dougal Haston - Cumha Dughall

by Robin Campbell

"So, mighty Haston, the painter of Lagangarbh, has gone now, too: killed in some meaningless skiing accident. It's worst when they die abroad.

Remember the aching disbelief when Smith went, the dreams from which you couldn't bear to wake, the feeling that you'd turn a corner, somewhere near the High Street, and there he would be – tatty raincoat, grinning suedes, wicked schoolboy smile – and the feeling that came after?

At least they found Haston’s body and somebody, Moriarty, saw him buried. You thought it didn't matter about Haston – he'd none of the innocence of Smith, he'd been away from the High Street too long, he’d spent too much time with the worshippers of money and fame - but then you saw the newsreel of Moriarty carrying the coffin through the town and then it mattered. The indomitable giant, his great head bowed, shuffling up through the drifts with the front end of the stretcher and the black coffin swaying past the camera made you crack.

Now you wish you'd gone, don't you? You wish you'd mortgaged your meaningless house a bit more and gone. Well, it's too late. Sometime soon you'll be walking in the City and there he'll be – loping along in his big boots, long hands slotted in pockets, ahoulders hunched, the big wolf grin and the North Wall eyes, ready for anything. But he won't really, will he?

You remember that time when you both hitched to the Ben, you got there first and he had the key? You kipped in the shithouse, threw the Elsan outside and cursed him. Four o'clock in the morning, a big blue shiny morning, the door burst open and there he was, stripped to the waist cracking that huge grin and waving the key in front of you. Or that other time when you stood all the way from Paris in a train to Chamonix, stumbled out of the station and didn't know a soul? You turned a corner and he was coming towards you like a golden greyhound, sunglassed and sandalled, just back from the Eiger and who could mistake that smile ?! Or the time you tried that horrible route of his on the Tannery Bridge, 'grade six sustained' he said, and you quivering on the final miserable fingerhold while he grinned down the parapet and held out a merciful hand? Well these times are all gone now, for you and for him, and won't be again. Except, once in a while you'll get that kick in the guts that tells you it's a dream and you're going to wake up and whenever you go moping about the old wynds and closes there'll be the feeling at corners and the feeling that comes after.

Remember Scott, sitting in some dreary single-end of a studio staring at the camera like a poleaxed bull while the blathering B.B.C. imbecile asked if he ever really knew him? What does knowing matter, (you felt like screaming)! He's gone and, with him, a long loping stride, narrow hips, wide shoulders, a lipless grin and bright blue bivouacked eyes."

Reproduced from SMC journal #168, page 209.

References

[1] Interview with Alex Megos, 2024 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fg_RbMSu4P8

Steve Blake:

I was contacted the day before yesterday by Ken Rayson, Eric’s brother with the news that Eric had died while out cycling. Presently no more is known other than no one else was involved. Eric was a remarkable climber, both humble and charming, but will only be known to a handful of readers. It’s noteworthy that Eric’s story and life are not untypical of the post-war period from which he emerged.

I came to know and eventually meet Eric while researching a book on climbing in Northumberland. I had seen his name credited with first ascents in our local guidebooks, but he had emigrated in the 60s and I hadn’t been able to track him down. Then his name popped up on Paul Ross’s Facebook page and I was able to make contact with him. Over the next couple of years there followed much correspondence and many Facetime chats, and in 2023 I was eventually able to meet him when he visited the UK. Diminutive, bright and sprightly, in his mid 80s he was still very active: climbing locally in Canada, cross-country skiing, competing in the World Cycling Masters and taking part in multi-day canoeing expeditions.

Eric, who was born in Gateshead, was one of a small group of working class climbers active in the North East in the 50s and early 60s known locally as the Crag Lough Group, but nationally as ‘The Newcastle Lads’. This group was in turn the north east cadre of a wider explosion in post-war working class climbers across the country. These Newcastle Lads; Geoff Oliver, Eric, Nev Hannaby, (Eric and Nev did new routes together on Chudleigh during their National Service) Jock Laing, Davy Moy, Malcom Rowe , Maurice de St Jorre, John Sloan and others - climbed extensively in the County establishing many routes, but rarely recording them. This was because the outcrops were mere practise for the Lakes, Scotland and Wales, which in turn were practise for the Alps and beyond. Locally, while there would no doubt be more, the only first ascent of his we can be certain of is Canada Crack at Bowden Doors (HVS 5a), which he climbed just before his emigration to Canada in 1967.

It seems almost mandatory for climbers of that period to have climbed the most difficult routes of the day with pathetically minimal gear, survived dreadful Scottish winter experiences and crashed motorbikes in the rain. Eric was no exception and did all these and more. 1959 was a notable Alpine season which saw him cycle to Chamonix from Newcastle (to get fit!), taking 10 days, bivying in barns on the way. On arrival a telegram from the lads informed him they would be a week late, so to fill the time he continued to Lake Como, returning a week later! That year he and Geoff Oliver did an early British ascent of the West Face of the Dru (of course, in a storm for which they were poorly equipped), he also did the Dent de Geant, and the South Face of the Mieje. The season sadly culminated in a big storm that claimed the life of another young Newcastle climber, Colin Spacey. Eric was in the party that recovered Colin’s body from Mt Blanc he was involved in the subsequent repatriation of Colin’s body to the UK. All before cycling home. The spirit of that period is captured in a black and white photo of Eric, Paul Ross and Geoff Oliver camping in Chamonix. As Eric recounted ‘we were as poor as church mice’ and they look it!

In 1962 he and Geoff Oliver had an abortive attempt on the North Face of the Eiger. Ahead of them were Brian Nally and Barry Brewster. Conditions persuaded Geoff and Eric to descend, passing Bonington and Whillans on their way up. Above these four Brewster and Nally had been hit by stonefall, Brewster being killed. Nally was subsequently assisted off by Whillans and Bonington. Eric was much displeased by the ‘bad press’ that Brewster and Nally received, believing them both to be very competent.

During his 1963 Alpine season he and Jock Laing struck up a friendship with Americans Tom Frost and Dave Dornan who persuaded them they should visit the US. In 1965 Eric and Jock headed to the US, meeting Tom Frost and Chuck Pratt in Colorado before heading to Yosemite. Here they met and climbed with the great and good of American climbing: Chouinard, Sacherer, Robbins, Dornan and Pratt. With Dornan they climbed the Regular Route on Half Dome, perhaps the first British ascent. To make ends meet they worked in Chouinard’s forge, unsurprisingly Chouinard was very interested in Eric’s home made nuts. (Eric was a toolmaker). During his stay he and Chuck Pratt teamed up with Chouinard and T M Herbert for an attempt on the Muir Wall. Unfortunately the night before they were to set off, Pratt, who was very spiritual had a premonition and refused to go on the route. Herbert and Chouinard didn’t want to climb in a team of three, so Eric missed out on the first ascent of one of the world’s great rock climbs. Compensation came soon after when he, Jock, Doug Tompkins and Chouinard did the first ascent of the classic traverse of the Howser Spires in the Bugaboos.

Chouinard, accompanied Jock and Eric back to the UK principally to experience Scottish winter climbing, but, he did come down to Northumberland for a long weekend and was entertained by Eric and the ‘Lads’, dossing in the shack in Rothbury Quarry, exercising on the routes they had established (famously failing on one of the quarry test-pieces, a route called ‘Ogre’, so-named using Eric’s and Geoff Oliver’s initials), and partaking of a spot of poaching in the River Coquet.

In 1966 he, his wife Min, and Jock made an overland trip to the Cilo Dag area of Turkey, meeting up with Dave Dornan. Details of new routes/first ascents are lost, but, again, he was involved in a casualty retrieval, this time a member of a Nottingham University expedition.

In 1967 he and his wife Min emigrated to Canada (‘Canada Crack’ was his parting shot!) settling in Kelowna in the Okanagan, working variously in Outdoor Education, Ski Patrol, a vineyard and eventually returning to engineering.

He never stopped climbing but gradually added other sports to his repertoire: cross-country skiing, mountain biking, and eventually road cycling in which he and Min participated in the World Masters competitions.

Sadly his life and partner in many of his adventures, ‘Min’ died after a short illness in 2022. He missed her terribly, but supported by his son Sean was getting on with life planning canoeing expeditions, and still getting to the climbing gym on a regular basis.

I was eventually to meet Eric in 2023 when he visited family in the UK; (John Spencer my co-author had been able to see Eric at home in Kelowna the year before.) During his short stay he visited Nev Hannaby (with who he did national service and climbed) and we arranged a meal and trip to Rothbury Quarry and the ‘Shack’ they used as a doss, we were joined by Davy Moy another Newcastle Lad, now resident in Scotland. It was fantastic to meet this charming, understated man who was still a little bemused by my interest in his climbing.

Only last week he had sent me an account of his adventure on the Dru with Geoff Oliver and now he is gone. I am consoled by the thought that his inclusion in our book will prevent his adventures being lost forever. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/eric_rayson_1938_-2024_rip-772390