Climbers

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/07/dan_dark_horse_mcmanus-69822

Dean Potter was a rock climber, alpinist, BASE jumper, and highliner. He was most notable for free solos, speed ascents, and link-ups in Yosemite and Patagonia. He died in a wingsuit BASE jumping accident in Yosemite.

References

[1] Portrait by Dean Fidelman https://www.instagram.com/p/CpN7MQAJom7/

[2] Free Soloing with a Parachute, from Reel Rock https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DWu4HygkBU

[3] Portrait by Jim Hurst https://www.instagram.com/p/DXcaJD9EYr0/

[4] Ivo Ninov discusses Dean's life (2017) https://stara.emontana.cz/dean-potter-ivo-ninov-interview/

Didier Berthod is a Swiss climber who is known for his crack climbing. Famously, he came very close to making the first ascent of Cobra Crack in Squamish in 2006 before injury stopped him and Sonnie Trotter made the first ascent..

Around the same time he stopped trying Cobra Crack his partner became pregnant. Didier was unable to to imagine a life as a father and he fell back on his Catholic faith, first becoming a Monk with the Eucharistein Fraternity and later being ordained as a priest.

In 2020 he then left the church to pursue 'a more balanced life', including starting climbing again.

He has since reconciled with his child and her mother (Previously his partner), and has started making hard fist ascents again such as The Crack of Destiny in Squamish and then, in 2024, coming full circle and climbing Cobra Crack in 2024.

References

[1] Interview with Tom Randall https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aSZ19z41Hg

[2] https://english.elpais.com/sports/2022-11-15/didier-berthod-from-rock-climbing-star-to-monk-and-back-again.html

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes, 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/32F0fKdpvYNkGup6pRtKMk?

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjXzfkm6mgk

[5] https://www.grimpactu.com/post/de-la-corde-%C3%A0-la-foi-le-retour-victorieux-de-didier-berthod

Greg Chapman is a boulderer based in the English Lake District. He is a prolific developer who has opened a huge number of new areas and problems in the lake district. He also maintains the lakesbloc.com website and has written the guidebook Lake District Bouldering.

Globetrotting US climber, one of the best in the world in the mid-70s, bold free-soloist. Responsible for solving many last great problems away from his New England base, notably in Yosemite and Australia. Climbing on the Czech and Dresden area sandstone influenced his purist style: avoiding both hammered gear and cams, frequently climbing shoeless, often free-soloing.

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3mRDxd0iy2989qL5xCNMuh?

[2] Interview with Mark Synnott, 2008 https://www.climbing.com/culture/henry-barber-interview

[3] Interview with Ken Wilson, Mountain 35 (1974), page 34 /library/11054/mountain-35

[4] https://www.henrybarber.com/categories/media/media_1-1.php

Bernard Newman:

John Syrett died instantly, in the small hours of Sunday June 9th, having presumably jumped from the lip of Malham Cove. Thus the climbing world lost one of its most vital and talented sons.

I first met John in 1968, when we both came up to Leeds University, where he read a degree in Applied Mineral Sciences. A shy lad in those days, he kept a distinctly low profile for the first year or so, but unbeknown to the rest of us more outward going types, busy ingratiating ourselves with the Club worthies, and wallowing in the stagnant climbing scene of the late sixties, a storm was brewing. It took the form of a dark-eyed, tousled-haired, incredibly bendy youth who could perform unheard of stunts on the University climbing wall. John had taken a lateral step; whilst we were all working up through the grades, he was exploring the effects of an already athletic frame, of specific climbing training using a climbing wall.

The results were astounding; when he was ready, John proceeded to demolish the mystique of a seemingly endless list of hard climbs, starting on the local outcrops, and working outwards.

Fame came quickly, with his on-sight second ascent of Wall of Horrors, at Almscliff, with token protection, one cold, windy November afternoon in 1970. This route had held local climbers in awe for nearly ten years.

The spell was broken, and a flood of new routes, mostly on grit, followed from Syrett and his contemporaries. Grit was John's milieu, and his routes were typically bold and gymnastic, such as Encore and Big Greenie at Almscliff, or violent like the Brutaliser and Felicity at Brimham; he was the master of offwidths.

John's ascent of Joker's Wall at Brimham was steeped in legend, for he would regularly jump off from high on the crux during early solo attempts— he was after all the 'rubber man', and could survive ground falls from heights that would have hospitalised lesser mortals.

John was a complex person, often difficult to get close to, but there was no mistaking his drive, no avoiding the eager fire that burned behind those anthracite eyes. It was as if life wasn't hard enough for him. He was constantly testing himself, against the rock, against other climbers, against the elements. His idea of losing weight was to run (literally) everywhere in just an open necked shirt, jeans and sandals in the depths of winter. (I tried this once, and nearly ended up with pneumonia.)

Just as John was getting into top gear, disaster struck. A shattered wine glass cut the tendons in a third finger, a seemingly minor injury to the layman, but it spelt the end for a climber of Syrett's calibre. Perhaps that was the moment when John began to die. Unable to channel his vital energies into the activity at which he excelled, he moved on, first to devote himself to a physiotherapy course in Newcastle, the very discipline that had failed to mend him, and finally to the brutal excitement and hardships of the North Sea drilling rigs.

But John's cruelly short life was shaped by a series of definite irrevocable decisions, as was his climbing, as was the manner of his death; not a cry for help of some lonely soul, but a bold statement, a premeditated decision to choose his own time and place.

It's been said that Syrett's influence on the development of rock climbing was far greater than this list of achievements would suggest. That's as may be; it’s been my good fortune to know a lot of extremely talented rock climbers over the years, but Syrettwas a genius, one of that rare breed of natural athletes whose performance makes a total mockery of the efforts of others. It was pure joy to watch him move across the face of steep rock. [1]

References

[1] Obituary by Bernard Newman in Mountain Issue 104, page 13 /library/11125/mountain-104

References

[1] https://explorersweb.com/i-choose-climbing-keita-kurakami-dies-on-mt-fuji-after-years-with-heart-condition/

[2] https://alpinist.com/features/on-belay-a-thousand-days-of-lapis-lazuli/

[3] https://www.climbing.com/news/keita-kurakami-dies-mount-fuji/

[4] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/a_tribute_to_late_japanese_climber_keita_kurakami-15941