Henry Barber

en.wikipedia.org
Also known as: Hot Henry

Quick Info

From: USA 🇺🇸
Gender: Male
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E4
Notable Partnerships
Frank Cannings

Globetrotting US climber, one of the best in the world in the mid-70s, bold free-soloist. Responsible for solving many last great problems away from his New England base, notably in Yosemite and Australia. Climbing on the Czech and Dresden area sandstone influenced his purist style: avoiding both hammered gear and cams, frequently climbing shoeless, often free-soloing.

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3mRDxd0iy2989qL5xCNMuh?

[2] Interview with Mark Synnott, 2008 https://www.climbing.com/culture/henry-barber-interview

[3] Interview with Ken Wilson, Mountain 35 (1974), page 34 /library/11054/mountain-35

[4] https://www.henrybarber.com/categories/media/media_1-1.php

Contributors
65 contributions since 3rd July 2021.
14 contributions since 31st January 2026.

Quick Info

From: USA 🇺🇸
Gender: Male
Hardest Trad (Worked): E5
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E4
Notable Partnerships
Frank Cannings

Globetrotting US climber, one of the best in the world in the mid-70s, bold free-soloist. Responsible for solving many last great problems away from his New England base, notably in Yosemite and Australia. Climbing on the Czech and Dresden area sandstone influenced his purist style: avoiding both hammered gear and cams, frequently climbing shoeless, often free-soloing.

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3mRDxd0iy2989qL5xCNMuh?

[2] Interview with Mark Synnott, 2008 https://www.climbing.com/culture/henry-barber-interview

[3] Interview with Ken Wilson, Mountain 35 (1974), page 34 /library/11054/mountain-35

[4] https://www.henrybarber.com/categories/media/media_1-1.php

Contributors
65 contributions since 3rd July 2021.
14 contributions since 31st January 2026.

Podcasts

Library

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

10 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Fish Crack E5 Lead | ground up 1975
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAm10A3QFBo
Second ascent.

...when Bridwell and I did the second ascent of New Dimensions two years ago, I suggested using nuts instead of the ten pegs he had with him. But he wouldn't agree. After I'd led the first pitch, using two or three nuts for protection, he followed me and left them in! But times are changing: this year he doesn't even carry a hammer and questions people who do! [1]

References

[1] Mountain 35 (1974), page 35 /library/11054/mountain-35

References

[1] Mountain 35 (1974), page 39 /library/11054/mountain-35
Butterballs E4 Lead | onsight May 1973
First ascent.
Déjà Vu E4 Alternate Leads May 1974
First ascent. With Frank Cannings.

References

[1] Mountain 35 (1974), page 39 /library/11054/mountain-35

References

[1] Mountain 35 (1974), page 34, 38 /library/11054/mountain-35

Henry used nuts to protect the entire route, eschewing the pegs that were in place. [1]

References

[1] Mountain 35 (1974), page 34 /library/11054/mountain-35
Quietus E2 Lead Before 1st Jan 1975
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade