Niccolò Ceria

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References

[1] https://youtu.be/iASCEwslRLI

[2] https://youtu.be/60ZX8gddUNk?t=342

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CIyIHSCDGpL/

There were some (at least for me) doubts regarding the starting holds. I first did it from a version which is a mix between the old (2016) and the new (2017) starting position. This was to me the logical place where to start the sequence. The latest starting position of Charles Albert (first ascensionist of both versions) was apparently out of reach for my size. I managed to figure out two betas from the hold he used, but I couldn’t physically fit my body into the narrow hole at the bottom. Some days ago I came back to Gros Sablons and I opted to play on the proper start once again. I figured out a slightly different heel hook placement: half cm a bit more to the left. This was a little change that made my body fit into the hole without touching all the rocks around.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CbFEorTNxvF/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/tv/CbId16vDToH/

[3] https://www.flickr.com/photos/140042526@N06/52700712953/in/photostream/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CpiU1EFDdGc/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CpqLv8xNi4n/

[3] https://youtu.be/60ZX8gddUNk?t=738

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C7wW7P4N_Ex/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C71P4k6t_Cp/?img_index=1

References

[1] https://youtu.be/iXGbDNfYafA?t=357

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/09/double_repeat_of_shantaram_font_8c-71265

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60ZX8gddUNk

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[1] https://youtu.be/60ZX8gddUNk?t=458

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[1] https://vimeo.com/485416203

[2] https://youtu.be/60ZX8gddUNk?t=557

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[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CljSpVajsd4/

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[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DJR3elBtMoy/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyS-ppascbY

References

[1] https://nikyceria.blogspot.com/2013/05/the-ghost-ship-champorcher.html?m=1

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/niccolo-ceria-drifts-up-the-ghost-ship-at-champorcher.html

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/90845516

References

[1] https://youtu.be/60ZX8gddUNk?t=995

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[1] https://vimeo.com/140812041?fl=pl&fe=sh#t=5m40s

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/147303755

Biotronic has been very important for my trip, my season and probably for my climbing life in general. It is rare to find a hard project to work, with only the holds you need, with compact rock and, more important, something you can enjoy from the first go until the last one. If you also consider it might be one of the best line of the area, all the feelings were going to be positive this time. [2]

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/178030110

[2] https://nikyceria.blogspot.com/2016/07/down-under-castle-hill.html

References

[1] https://youtu.be/60ZX8gddUNk?t=24

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/niky_ceria/p/B9oH5qpI2Q1/?img_index=3

[2] https://youtu.be/60ZX8gddUNk?t=108

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/ClTHYBlMFX4/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CvFfwIdM3_W/

[2] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/53188744801/in/photostream/

[3] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/53188944170/in/photostream/

[4] https://youtu.be/qqPVNj55NvU?t=725

References

[1] https://youtu.be/60ZX8gddUNk?t=806

References

[1] https://youtu.be/60ZX8gddUNk?t=928

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C4NwP68Nq1u/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C4LP6F_NP5g/?img_index=1

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cOhnSwEdbQ

Unusually Niky chose to top out the line.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DDZ5qyfNB-X/

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[1] https://youtu.be/mK2DG1GqlWc?t=60

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[1] https://youtu.be/mK2DG1GqlWc?t=191

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[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnlbmmJMmpU

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[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DQCL4Hhig-L/

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[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttBw_7ZG0yE

References

[1] https://youtu.be/iXGbDNfYafA?t=87

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/niccolo-ceria-flashes-8b-at-fontainebleau.html

[2] https://youtu.be/iXGbDNfYafA?t=162

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/05/niccolo_ceria_flashes_trifecta_middle_font_8b-71587

References

[1] https://youtu.be/60ZX8gddUNk?t=123

[2] https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=2822820847839552

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[1] https://www.instagram.com/tv/Cloa4SajkZF/

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[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0wWc1at4XR/

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[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DC4UhatNxqw/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DDFCM6UN-sw/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DDKWrqcNm_p/

What’s brilliant from Charles, in my opinion, is seeing the concreteness in this piece of rock, transforming such a crazy and unrealistic idea into something actually doable and finally realizing it. Especially after ages that this vision was considered not feasible and it was under everybody’s eyes. [2]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD0PsZw3yWs&t=378s

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DI_0o2zt1Ms/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C6_8r9HNObj/

Second ascent isn’t fully correct without an exhaustive gloss. In this case I wasn’t able to repeat it in the same style that Dan did it. In fact, Dan impressively put it up in one single day (cleaning included!) without spotters and with one single big pad. The style I used was way more conservative and I’d be lying without explaining what I needed: A deeper clean, 8 big pads, 2 spotters and some top rope tries on each working session. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DEmkfsKtP_Y/

[2] https://youtu.be/qqPVNj55NvU?t=226

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DDph7hLtIAY/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GR7taRPIlwk&t=225s

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[1] https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZcgXgpBMeA/

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[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GR7taRPIlwk&t=293s

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DKcYo8eoFBx/