Yuji Hirayama

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References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DPLpMByEmeY/

Yuji attempted to onsight Salathé Wall falling only three times, once on The Teflon Corner and then twice on The Headwall.

I put so much energy into this project. Every single minute was great. If I had to pick my best climbing moment, then I'd choose the Salathe on-sight attempt in 1997. This is my fondest memory so far in my entire climbing career. [1]

Hans Florine:

We ascended the route in two days as [Yuji] fought to onsight the route. If I recall correctly we made it to the teflon corner and a little beyond the first day. The second day Yuji threw himself at the head wall. An effort like this has not been done even in recent times despite all the traffic and beta on the route. For 1997 it was way off the charts, only the past 27 years confirms that. [2]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/yuji-hirayama-the-nose-big-walls-and-bouldering.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DCTyllktwK7/?hl=en

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZueiGMv4x6w&ab_channel=narutokintoki

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7_3cISi-kA

Considered 8c at the time which would have made it the first onsight of the grade.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 94, page 10

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/yuji-hirayama-repeats-noia-8c-.html

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 109, page 12

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0I2t2T-FoZc

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0I2t2T-FoZc&t=63s

Yuji first bolted the line in 1989 before coming back to finish the project in 2003!

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/news/flat-mountain/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thlHM4JYH1k

Yuji attempted to onsight the route falling twice.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/yuji-hirayama-repeats-el-nino.html

The first onsight of an 8c.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Csdo59GHnI

References

[1] https://gripped.com/profiles/yuji-hirayama-sends-time-machine-a-new-5-14c/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDJqOcQMeN4

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CawztQhl7Nr/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/yuji_hirayama_stonerider/reel/C3iJ0giSXLX/

[2] https://www.climbing.com/news/legend-yuji-hirayama-repeats-the-dangerous-daydream-5-14-trad-in-japan/

Based on my own feeling, the 7th pitch is around 5.14a [8b+], and the 2nd pitch feels closer to 5.14c [8c+].

But when I first sent the 2nd pitch back in 2003, I was in top shape—physically, mentally, and technically—and even then it still took me five days to send. On top of that, the 2nd pitch was easily accessible and could be practiced almost like a single-pitch route from the ground. Now, with Sachi trying it this season, some holds have changed, and it seems to have become even harder. Taking all of that into account, I personally feel that the 2nd pitch could very well be 5.14d [9a].

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DRIn7UikhbQ/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DRhDMdkEtN2/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/DRDTfcdkoj5/